Official Black Horse 2350mm Gilmore Red Lion

[Twowingtj]

djmoose Congrats on the maiden!

When tuning the Gilmore in, it wound up being a warbird/pattern plane approach. The ailerons are scale and fairly small. similar to those on warbirds, so 20deg and 25deg worked.

It has a long tail moment, similar to a pattern plane, so 12deg and 15deg worked well.

Replacing the glitchy elevator servos made the biggest difference on mine. With the long tail moment, just a little off center on the return had a big effect on how it felt.

[Twowingtj]

Duplicate post

[djmoose]

I found these Fly Wheelz that I think will work perfect for the 44. Thinner, slightly more bounce (not much) and comes with a spare set of rubber.

https://northwestrc.com/Spot-On-RC--FlyWheelz--5--BLACK_p_3387.html

I've also switched to some clamp-on collars for in-between the LG and the wheel. (instead of a nut or locknut)

[djmoose]

Just a little teaser:

[DaleD]

I found these Fly Wheelz that I think will work perfect for the 44. Thinner, slightly more bounce (not much) and comes with a spare set of rubber.

https://northwestrc.com/Spot-On-RC--FlyWheelz--5--BLACK_p_3387.html

I've also switched to some clamp-on collars for in-between the LG and the wheel. (instead of a nut or locknut)

Those wheels look REAL nice. Hope they perform as well as they look, please keep us posted.

I’d like to get a couple of those split collars. Would you kindly share a link to your source and any additional details? The supplied screw used as the wheel axel is 6mm if memory serves correct. What size collar did you select?

Thanks

DaleD

[DaleD]

Just a little teaser:

A real teaser indeed. Beautiful model being handled well.

DaleD

[djmoose]

Thank you! The thing about those wheels is that they're pretty gawky...however with most of them inside the pants...it's not that big of an issue. I went with black so they would be less noticeable.

About the collars...I had some 1/4 inch ID on hand...which is slightly larger than 6mm but they still clamp on real tight. (tight enough for me to be comfortable) If for some reason they slip, they have metric ones as well.

I get these from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/6436K12

Looks like collars like these are available other places as well. (Home Depot, Amazon, etc etc)

Those wheels look REAL nice. Hope they perform as well as they look, please keep us posted.

I’d like to get a couple of those split collars. Would you kindly share a link to your source and any additional details? The supplied screw used as the wheel axel is 6mm if memory serves correct. What size collar did you select?

Thanks

DaleD

[Twowingtj]

Interesting clamp collar. Thanks for the link.

[DaleD]

Thank you! The thing about those wheels is that they're pretty gawky...however with most of them inside the pants...it's not that big of an issue. I went with black so they would be less noticeable.

About the collars...I had some 1/4 inch ID on hand...which is slightly larger than 6mm but they still clamp on real tight. (tight enough for me to be comfortable) If for some reason they slip, they have metric ones as well.

I get these from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/6436K12

Looks like collars like these are available other places as well. (Home Depot, Amazon, etc etc)

Thanks for the link.

I’ve placed an order for 2 each in 1/4” and 3/16”.

DaleD

[RCBobP]

For anyone that used inflatable DuBro wheels (or the like), what PSI is recommended?

[RCBobP]

She flies!! Finally got everything together, ran out of excuses, got control of my shaky knees, fired up the Saito engine and off she went.

Before I maidened I put the plane on an EZ Balancer and at the 114 mm mark was too nose heavy for my liking. As luck would have it, I had a strip of twelve 1/4 oz lead weights (3 oz.). I laid it on the tail of the fuse, right in front of the tail wheel and it balanced perfectly. I had to make some adjustments with the wheel pants, as the wheels were rubbing up against the pants. After that, I fueled up the tank and started the engine. Needed to do a mechanical adjustment to the throttle servo arm. Like I said, at that point I ran out of excuses.

Take of was eazy breezy. Got up to altitude. As many have indicated, at low rates it has a sluggish roll rate. I'm not used to this kind of scale flyer. I fly mostly aerobatic and pattern planes. Still, I babied it all the way. Didn't try any loops, but will do so once I get used to flying it in circles. As you can imagine, the first landing I was a bit nervous. Got it on the ground, but it nosed over and flipped. Probably should land with high rates on the elevator just to get maximum deflection to keep the tail on the ground.

It's fun to have something that not everyone else has, so it certainly draws attention from other pilots. Everyone is very impressed with the quality of the model. Stay tuned for more updates. Thanks to all who posted their tips on this forum.

Bob

Bob

[djmoose]

Awesome job! Congrats!

[406PIlot]

Fantastic!!! Glad to hear all went fairly well. I had the sr problem adjusting my flying style to this type of plane. Once you get used.to it's characteristics you'll be even more in love !!


Cheers again!!!

[Twowingtj]

RCBobP Congrats!

Hopefully, you were damage free after the flip. I had no problem until I went with inflatable tires. At recommended inflation, they are soft enough to bulge and possibly grab the inside of a wheel pant. If you inflate more, they get larger in diameter, also causing possible clearance issues.

[RCBobP]

No damage except pride. I'll get over that!

I noticed this morning the fill valve on one of the wheels is gone. Must have popped out on landing. Will definitely go back to the stock wheels!

[RCBobP]

Flight today went even better. Rolls, loops, fun....and a perfect roll out on landing.

[406PIlot]

Just absolutely fantastic RCBobP !!!! I love the Gilmore with the saito radial!!! It's defiantly the pride and joy of my hangar!! I'm really liking your Pilot!!! I need to get rid of the stock pilot and get something cool in there like you did.

Cheers again to getting your bird in the air !

[RCBobP]

Now that I have the plane flying, it's time to think about some improvements to the project. I mentioned earlier that I added 3 oz to the rear of the fuse. i used a strip of 12 1/4 oz lead weights by peeling off the self adhesive backing and sticking it right to the covering on the underside of the fuse. Not really the proper method, I get it. At some point the adhesive may lose its grip. When I got the plane back on the work table, I tried to peel off the weights. For now, the adhesive is sticking pretty well. So now I'm thinking about the best way to lock them in place. I'm leaning towards drilling a hole at either end of the weights and maybe one in the middle, through the fuse sheeting and then inserting a dowel coated with epoxy. That would then bind the weight to the wood itself, in a more permanent way than just relying on the adhesive backing to the covering, even if it's only the thickness of the wood sheeting.

The other method I thought about was to go ahead and pry off the weights, score the covering enough to expose the sheeting enough to then epoxy the weights back on so they are glued directly to the fuse. Epoxy should hold better than the adhesive backing.

Any thoughts out there? Thanks.

Bob

[DaleD]

Now that I have the plane flying, it's time to think about some improvements to the project. I mentioned earlier that I added 3 oz to the rear of the fuse. i used a strip of 12 1/4 oz lead weights by peeling off the self adhesive backing and sticking it right to the covering on the underside of the fuse. Not really the proper method, I get it. At some point the adhesive may lose its grip. When I got the plane back on the work table, I tried to peel off the weights. For now, the adhesive is sticking pretty well. So now I'm thinking about the best way to lock them in place. I'm leaning towards drilling a hole at either end of the weights and maybe one in the middle, through the fuse sheeting and then inserting a dowel coated with epoxy. That would then bind the weight to the wood itself, in a more permanent way than just relying on the adhesive backing to the covering, even if it's only the thickness of the wood sheeting.

The other method I thought about was to go ahead and pry off the weights, score the covering enough to expose the sheeting enough to then epoxy the weights back on so they are glued directly to the fuse. Epoxy should hold better than the adhesive backing.

Any thoughts out there? Thanks.

Bob

Any option to move the batteries further aft of the CG to achieve balance and remove the 3oz lead? I built a battery tray for my Gilmore for this very purpose. I am not close to the model right now, but I believe the tray is located behind the rear of the canopy.

DaleD

[RCBobP]

I suppose I could do something like that. Photo might help. The thing is that with the 3oz lead, it's balanced perfectly.