Official FlightLine 1600mm P-51D Mustang Thread

[Elbee]

Good to know on that flex! And also nice to know the TS-20 didn't show any degradation of foam. No, I was not planning to sand. Simply mask off and wipe down and wait for a warmer day to paint.

[Aros]

Good to know on that flex! And also nice to know the TS-20 didn't show any degradation of foam. No, I was not planning to sand. Simply mask off and wipe down and wait for a warmer day to paint.

[GliderGuy]

Aros…as an experiment, I took an old FL P-38 wing and heavily sprayed the TS-30 on a factory painted wing and let it sit. There was no degradation of the wing foam. It looked good as new after it dried.

Caution…Beyond any added weight considerations, I had the not so brilliant idea of using aluminum duct tape for the leading edge slats on an AL-37. IT LOOKED GREAT!

That is…until she flew. Any foam flex is transformed into permanent wrinkles in the duct tape. The slats looked awful after a few flights. But, if this had worked, a polished aluminum finish would have been the result.

Are you planning to sand off the P-51 factory paint!

-GG

[Aros]

Good advice! I've made that very mistake. Lacquer is scary on foam. Light coats indeed!

[Elbee]

Aros

Can't speak for anyone else, what I have found using a rattle can with lacquer/enamel solvent is I only have an issue if I spray too heavy a coat onto the foam.

That has caused some gatoring within 3-4 minutes as the solvent does not seem to evaporate quickly enough and must be attacking the foam's finish.

I have found this to be true even after applying several coats of Minwax Poly and allowing those to cure.

3-4 light coats is how I now shoot rattle can onto EPO whether it is primer or color.

Best, Steve

[Aros]

The FL P-38 silver match is TAMIYA TS-30 silver leaf.

You know what that finish looks like.

There may be a better option for a polished aluminum-like paint, but the TS-30 is pretty good, and it re-paints/repairs very well.

-GG

Thanks, however that's lacquer-based. Would it be EPO foam safe?

[GliderGuy]

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a really quality chrome in a rattle can? This is the livery I am going to paint. I like that I don't have to change the nose from stock...

The FL P-38 silver match is TAMIYA TS-30 silver leaf.

You know what that finish looks like.

There may be a better option for a polished aluminum-like paint, but the TS-30 is pretty good, and it re-paints/repairs very well.

-GG

[Aros]

Unicorn my friend.

Best, LB

How dare you come at me with common sense and logic wrapped in levity!!

[Elbee]

Aros





Unicorn my friend.

Best, LB

[Aros]

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a really quality chrome in a rattle can? This is the livery I am going to paint. I like that I don't have to change the nose from stock...

[Aros]

I suspect it was backwards first and you then plugged it in correctly. Or maybe wrong channel...

No the polarity was correct. It was in the AUX2 port. I never changed it from when I originally plugged it in. It simply stopped flashing the next time I plugged the battery in. Weird.

[Evan D]

I suspect it was backwards first and you then plugged it in correctly. Or maybe wrong channel...

When I plugged it in again it stopped. I assigned it to a switch and it’s working fine now. Who knows? Dang gremlins.

[Aros]

When I plugged it in again it stopped. I assigned it to a switch and it’s working fine now. Who knows? Dang gremlins.

[Evan D]

Something not plugged in right I would suspect. If 100% sure everything is in right it would be a bad E27 Control Board.

[GliderGuy]

I can’t comment on the guns firing…I don’t use / 6 ch radio. Possible wiring short or incorrect factory wiring?!

For the elevator/flap mix…by the manual initially. After some flights, I reduced the mix amount slightly.
The manual mix is a good starting point.

Let us know how your maiden flight goes.

-GG

[Aros]

Question...I bound successfully, everything is working as it should - but - the guns are firing at all times. I even unplugged the gun lead from the port and it's still firing! Wait, what??

Also, what are you guys doing for the elevator/flap mix?

[GliderGuy]

Good deal, and thanks for doing that.
Potentially MUCH safer, now, for this powerful motor/big prop combination.
-GG

[Aros]

GliderGuy sorry for the delay but I updated the manual as per your good suggestion.

[GliderGuy]

Lifetime supply for perfect FL P-51 prop tip paint match…

[xviper]

Great job viper. Looks original

Thanks, I really hope it was worth the effort. I just wanted a bit more oomph in the performance dept. The only major visual difference (to my eyes) is the width of the blades. The FL blades are quite a bit narrower than the FMS ones.
FL on top of FMS.