Official FlightLine 1600mm P-51D Mustang Thread

[Evan D]

I have been using handles I got in the military 40+ years ago and blades I buy on line. A box of 100 lasts about 20 years. I prefer the #11 blades.

Amazon.com: 21PCS 20 Scalpel Blades with #11 Scalpels Surgical Sterile Blades Including 1 Handle,Laboratory Blade-Lab Knives- Carving Blades with Handle-Art Blades Practicing Cutting-Crafts & More… : Industrial & Scientific

[Davegeee]

I have been using handles I got in the military 40+ years ago and blades I buy on line. A box of 100 lasts about 20 years. I prefer the #11 blades.

Amazon.com: 21PCS 20 Scalpel Blades with #11 Scalpels Surgical Sterile Blades Including 1 Handle,Laboratory Blade-Lab Knives- Carving Blades with Handle-Art Blades Practicing Cutting-Crafts & More… : Industrial & Scientific

I agree, Evan. I use almost exlusively the #11 blades, probably have for 40 years or more.

Cheers

Davegee

[Elbee]

I have been using handles I got in the military 40+ years ago and blades I buy on line. A box of 100 lasts about 20 years. I prefer the #11 blades.

Amazon.com: 21PCS 20 Scalpel Blades with #11 Scalpels Surgical Sterile Blades Including 1 Handle,Laboratory Blade-Lab Knives- Carving Blades with Handle-Art Blades Practicing Cutting-Crafts & More… : Industrial & Scientific

Evan,

I just found that the Chine$e blades and even the brand name X-acto blades are just not as quality as those used to be.

No biggie, I bought a box of 100 X-acto #11s about a year ago and the the tips are not that sharp or are the tips always completely symmetrical.

Even fresh, most of these tore paper at the tip when cutting out graphics and decals.

I will say those worked okay for cutting foam, just not very accurate on other things.

I have a box of Hobbico brand #11s from the 90's that are better than OEM X-acto #11 I bought last year.

Maybe a got a bad batch, but I still doubt whether X-acto OEM are made here and a poor Q&A issue is in eye of the beholder. .

Just my experience of late.

Best, LB

[jetfool]

Davegee,
I use x-acto #11 blades also, but these scalpel blades are 100 times sharper. I only use them for special cuts; afraid I'll cut my finger off. For foam they are great.
My buddy who is a retired Dr. says he uses a Kevlar glove on his opposite hand when cutting balsa just for safety

Best Regards, Rex

[Evan D]

The numbering (#11 or #10, etc) that Xacto and surgical blades use is the shape of the blades. A surgical #11 and Xacto #11 are both triangular blades with a straight cutting edge. The surgical blades are stainless, very thin, slightly flexible and extremely sharp.

[jetfool]

Hey Evan D,
You going to consider the new FW F-35? Lots of money. I'd like a large 110mm fan A-7 Corsair II.
Still modifying my FW F-4

Best Regards, Rex

[Evan D]

Yes. We have a group here interested in it. A-7 or A-4… I worked on both but not sure I’d be interested but then the C model Lightning II really doesn’t either. A VTOL B absolutely.

Hey Evan D,
You going to consider the new FW F-35? Lots of money. I'd like a large 110mm fan A-7 Corsair II.
Still modifying my FW F-4

Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Hi Rex: I’m going to buy those surgical blades on
Amszon and try them out. Will report back.

I’m reminded when I was 10 years old I was cutting a pumpkin for a jack o lantern and slipped on a soft spot and cut my ring and little finger on my left hand. Severed the tendon on my little finger and damaged the one on my ring finger. Spent a week on my back with my arm in traction! To this day, I’m mindful of that whenever I pick up a sharp object 60 years later!

cheers

davegee

[Elbee]

https://www.amazon.com/MIERE-Surgical-Blade-Remover-Unit/dp/B0GN4M9JGS?crid=AR7QDN4CAKLX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rPwwxVCX8XNyrByadKG6Uu2BgWIN2jcvphnZvVlimlhGOIQTCeFX2wDZL4-HdODvZ98sbAkPlQrVL4BVTWyNKEeQTG5tbaRpV1x_i139lOhKSZtg4YE5lAInbMYpVwRKJfLWegFVIVVf1PgItbCguorWwsLIuw68p8u7t8r-bELFzGJOje50oTnUIrM5VlPFz1vV0YMk5Pedu18SIvHPxGgJjD_N9liggkji5Qvlt2c.t2G-EzcRcZhpeEGTu5Bsb1gvq0bUAl8RSOiBpFZeWp4&dib_tag=se&keywords=scalpel+blade+removal+tool&qid=1781010711&sprefix=scapel+blade+removal+tool%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-6

davegee

Make sure you pick up a blade removal tool.

Removing a used blade without one is an accident waiting to happen.

I sound like my Mom, but I have sliced a layer or two off trying to remove the blades with it.

Best, LB

[Evan D]

Never an issue removing or installing blades. To me that is a solution for a problem that doesn't exist.

[Elbee]

Never an issue removing or installing blades. To me that is a solution for a problem that doesn't exist.

[xviper]

Worked in a medical research lab for 21 years. Used all kinds of disposable scalpel blades the whole time. The key is having the correct handle for the blade being used. If the handle is incorrect, yes, the blade can go zinging across the bench. Also, a medical grade handle is the only way to go. Once you see how the blade goes on, it's not difficult to figure out the best way to safely remove it, even without a removal tool. We never heard of a removal tool back then. Hint: for installation, fit the blade in the correct position and push it (pointy end up against something rigid like a hard piece of wood) until it clicks into place. You can see that the blunt end bends as it slides over the raised ridge and straightens when it clicks into place. To remove, lift the blunt end on the blunt side and place the now slightly curled blunt end on the edge of the same wood block with pointy end up. Pull the handle down and the blade disengages. It helps to have finger nails that aren't clipped. (Or use small fine needle nose pliars.)
If you can find them, get handles that are big, thick and roundish. These are the more "industrial" strength type of handles. They can be held more securely and less likely to slip.

[Elbee]

xviper

Good tip.

The removal tool came with the handle and blades from Swann-Morton.

I cut myself twice before figuring out I should try the removal tool.

I am not always the sharpest pencil in the box.

The removal tool works and is a faster way to change out blades for me.

New blade install is a deliberate process, but simple, as you wrote.

I do like how sharp these are and how long the blades stay sharp.

Different stainless alloy, I suppose, versus carbon steel.

I do miss my tried and true X-acto #11 blades and still use the handles with #4 blades and one or two of the other general purpose blades.

I have 2-3 NIB complete X-acto box sets from 80's and early 90's I received as gifts.

For me that's instant nostalgia in a box just looking at 'em. Good times.

Best, LB

[jetfool]

Elbee,
My Dad bought me a large set in a wooden box in 1970. He dated it and I still use the handles w/ new blades (of course) to this day. Really brings back memories every time I use them. Those scalpel blades do last a long time. I use a good pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the blade.
Rainy and windy again, hope you all are having good flying weather

Best Regards, Rex

[xviper]

For serious work, we used to use “autopsy” knives. When the lab closed, I was allowed to take a few home. They come in 3”, 6” and 12”. Just as sharp as a scalpel but used for cutting brain slices. They were strong enough to slice through fish spines.
Here is the 6” I used to use for many years. Now it’s only used for cutting veggies and meat in the kitchen. Wife uses it to cut rhubarb - the acids in that dulls it very quickly.

[Elbee]

Are you a former special forces member? Just kiddin'...now that's a knife!

[jetfool]

Xviper,
YIKES!
That looks like a sharp weapon, don't think I'd need anything like that. Make a great craving knife though for balsa.
Best Regards, Rex

[Davegeee]

https://www.amazon.com/MIERE-Surgica...s%2C203&sr=8-6

davegee

Make sure you pick up a blade removal tool.

Removing a used blade without one is an accident waiting to happen.

I sound like my Mom, but I have sliced a layer or two off trying to remove the blades with it.

Best, LB

Good point! I can see that easily happening!

Davegee

[xviper]

As a knife, it's much too sharp to carry. There is no sheath. I have cut large pieces of foam with it, like when I made a stand from the shipping box for my AL-37.

[Davegeee]

Question on setup of Freewing Gyro for 1600mm P-51

Hi Guys: I am putting my new 1.6m Flightline P-51D together. I opted for the version with the gyro installed on the airplane. I just put the power to it this morning. I have some experience with these gyros from my Freewing F9F-8 Cougar airplane which works great.

The reading material that came with the P-51 talks a little bit about the gyro, but it is different in some ways to the one in my Cougar. For instance, the colored lights on the gyro are different. On the Cougar, the off mode is a white light on the gyro box. The Auto Level gain mode is a blue light on the control box. And when you used the Basic Gain mode, the colored light is green.

Now, on my P-51 with the gyro, with the unit turned off, there is no light, it is dark. In the auto leveling mode it is a flashing green light, and when in the Basic Gain mode, it is a solid green light.

I have it figured out I think that it essentially operates the same as the earlier unit on my Cougar, just different colored lights . I've tested them in my shop by moving the airplane around, and it seems to me that it works ok.

Has anyone else bought the gyro option for the P-51? I just wanted to be sure I'm not missing something as I didn't see any other documentation with the P-51 kit, but it seems to be operating ok, as I am thinking I have the lights correct for the differences with the Cougar servo. They both look identical.

Cheers

Davegee

[Evan D]

Sounds like mine. I disabled the self leveling