Official FlightLine 1600mm P-51D Mustang Thread

[Evan D]

I know on mine it does off/ gyro/ self leveling, I wonder if that's what happened.

[paulrkytek]

If you have the programmer, you should check what the gains are. They may have been incorrectly set at the factory. Sounds like the AIL gain is too high.

Agreed but I then have to buy a programmer which works on an app and I hate apps. I would rather just bite the bullet and spend £25 on another hobby Eagle A3 super 4 and I already have a programme card( no apps just connect at home or at field ) that I am familiar with. It just pisses me off that I have to do this.

[paulrkytek]

I know on mine it does off/ gyro/ self leveling, I wonder if that's what happened.

Gyro Off no light, Gyro on green light, self level green flashing light, I checked operation and colours before I flew it. Also manual states up elevator to flap mix. it balloons if you do this, but flies level at 1/3 throttle if I apply down elevator mix. I have set 1mm down elevator trim which gives me level flight at half throttle if I want level flight at full throttle I just hold a touch of down elevator. c.g 120mm for first flight but right side up with gear down. Subsequent flights moved lipo 10mm further forward ( Turnigy 5000 60c 790gms ). I normally c.g. warbirds upside down with gear up. Manual does not specify which way up or gear up or down to c.g, bearing in mind c.g marks are under wing. no point in having c.g marks under wing unless the c.g relates to under wing balance otherwise it just leads to confusion. Not very good Motion r.c. if you have not flown a Mustang before.

[paulrkytek]

I am going to try connecting roll dial switch to the gains slot on the Gyro ( middle slot I think ) but unless it has been activated in an app to enable me to do that it wont work in which case I will probably just Yell at Motion customer services, bin the gyro, remain pissed off for a while and then install the A3 Super4.. dam just checked it, this gyro does not let you adjust gains in flight and the middle slot is for nose wheel steering so it looks like it is the bin option.

[Tygerman42]

Why not just buy a blue bridge and you have it for this plane and the future. The freewing gyros are as good as the Hobby Eagles. I have 8 HE gyros in my fleet. The freewing is easier to work with. Especially because I have 2 HE gyros that the USB ports wore out. Now they are stuck with their current settings. The USB C plug on the freewing is superior to the USB micro B plug on the HE.

[paulrkytek]

Why not just buy a blue bridge and you have it for this plane and the future. The freewing gyros are as good as the Hobby Eagles. I have 8 HE gyros in my fleet. The freewing is easier to work with. Especially because I have 2 HE gyros that the USB ports wore out. Now they are stuck with their current settings. The USB C plug on the freewing is superior to the USB micro B plug on the HE.

There is no inflight main gain adjustment with this freewing gyro and I do not use mobile apps. A3 super 4 or A3 EVO allows main gain adjustment and on field adjustment by using programme card or dial pots respectively no smart phone required which suits my mindset . I do not fly in 20mph plus winds as I do not enjoy my flying in the wind and cold because I am a born softie !!!! If the Freewing gyro worked as advertised it would have suited my needs but it did not and it is now removed and replaced never to be seen again

[GliderGuy]

Cosmetic tip….
After many flights, I noticed the fuselage foam at the (pilot right) front of the canopy well was compressed. A gap between the front right side of the canopy assembly and fuselage had formed. Hmmm….

Was I putting the canopy assembly on without checking alignment? Nope.

After paying attention to my battery removal and installation procedure, I found that my fingers were compressing the foam.

To prevent this, install some thin plywood or carbon fiber sheeting layered onto the front side of the canopy well. Fat fingers won’t compress this tough layer! If it is thin enough, the canopy fit isn’t impacted.

After gluing on a thin sheet, I then filled the gap of the compression, sanded and painted the filler.

If you get ahead of this, you will avoid the fill/sand/paint step.

-GG

[GliderGuy]

During this weekend of strong wind, I decided to replace the elevator servo with an MKS HV69 servo.

I have done this on all my planes that only have a single servo driving this most critical control. The specs of the HV69 are more to my liking when compared to the stock elevator servo’s specs.

The physical dimensions of the HV69 are VERY close to the stock servo. However, I did have to do a little bit of Dremel work on both the servo case and servo ears as well as a little Dremel work on the fuselage plastic servo holder.

Not much, but I couldn’t get the servo to nest into the fuselage holder without a small amount of plastic trimming Dremel work. Not a big deal, but heads up.

The wire lead on the MKS 69 is not long enough to reach very far into the fuselage. You know the drill…get out the soldering gun or add a socketed extension.

She’s all buttoned back up and ready to test fly.

-GG

[Chillibadger]

Cosmetic tip….
After many flights, I noticed the fuselage foam at the (pilot right) front of the canopy well was compressed. A gap between the front right side of the canopy assembly and fuselage had formed. Hmmm….

Was I putting the canopy assembly on without checking alignment? Nope.

After paying attention to my battery removal and installation procedure, I found that my fingers were compressing the foam.

To prevent this, install some thin plywood or carbon fiber sheeting layered onto the front side of the canopy well. Fat fingers won’t compress this tough layer! If it is thin enough, the canopy fit isn’t impacted.

After gluing on a thin sheet, I then filled the gap of the compression, sanded and painted the filler.

If you get ahead of this, you will avoid the fill/sand/paint step.

-GG

could you share a photo of what you did please?

[GliderGuy]

Sure…Not pretty, but I had an odd sized piece of thin carbon sheet.

The important side to sheet is the right side. This is where your fingers will compress the foam.

A black Sharpie pen was handy and quick way to paint the rest of the white foam not covered by the sheeting. I intend to redo better with black paint, soon.

-GG

[Chillibadger]

Sure…Not pretty, but I had an odd sized piece of thin carbon sheet.

The important side to sheet is the right side. This is where your fingers will compress the foam.

A black Sharpie pen was handy and quick way to paint the rest of the white foam not covered by the sheeting. I intend to redo better with black paint, soon.

-GG

great thanks looks aren't everything. wonder if i could print something with pla. i don't have carbon or balsa sheeting around but a dab hand with my 3d printer

[GliderGuy]

Why not? Keep it thin! Needs only to be a thin, stiff layer that keeps your fingers off the foam.

Balsa will compress, so if you use wood…needs to be a thin aircraft grade plywood.

No harm done it the added material prevents the canopy from seating….sand on it where it is binding.

-GG

[paulrkytek]

Cosmetic tip….
After many flights, I noticed the fuselage foam at the (pilot right) front of the canopy well was compressed. A gap between the front right side of the canopy assembly and fuselage had formed. Hmmm….

Was I putting the canopy assembly on without checking alignment? Nope.

After paying attention to my battery removal and installation procedure, I found that my fingers were compressing the foam.

To prevent this, install some thin plywood or carbon fiber sheeting layered onto the front side of the canopy well. Fat fingers won’t compress this tough layer! If it is thin enough, the canopy fit isn’t impacted.

After gluing on a thin sheet, I then filled the gap of the compression, sanded and painted the filler.

If you get ahead of this, you will avoid the fill/sand/paint step.

-GG

a thin layer of epoxy may well be a simpler way ?apply with finger wearing nitrile glove

[paulrkytek]

I am going to try the MW4 sound card and speaker for £22.50p including postage and report back on it

[Evan D]

Link? Machine gun sounds?

[Hugh Wiedman]

I'm sure one of you geniuses out there has the answer to the vent under the fuselage behind the main scoop. I know that it uses the Meredith Effect on the real P-51 for cooling and a slight boost of thrust but not sure if it opens wide at slow speed for better cooling and closes more at high speed. I believe thats correct but just wanted to make sure. The vent on my 1700mm P-51 originally came operating the opposite way, and I used a servo reverser to change it. Just want to make sure I changed it correctly.

Currently fitting out that pig with an Eflight Power 60 470 Kv motor, which I also have in my Hangar Nine 60" Beast Bi-Plane and love it. Stock motor was a 360Kv gerbil wheel. Ordered from Xoar in China some custom props black with yellow tip 17X7 2 blade electric props (same as my Beast uses) and some black with yellow tip 16X7 3 blade props. Tried a MasterScrew 3 blade 16X8 but the hub is way too thick and the prop fairly heavy. Found some 4" Spinners for 2 blades at Extreme Flight and some 4" 3 blade aluminum spinners from Z Hobby, so getting down to the finishing touches. It either wakes this elephant up or it's going to the Old Folks Home!!

[paulrkytek]

[QUOTE=Evan D;n448849]Link? Machine gun sounds?[/QUOTE
UK based radio guy but due to customs issues he does not sell overseas but here is the link if you want to ask him https://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/shop/

[paulrkytek]

Evan the Sound card is from a uk based guy who does not sell abroad due to customs issues

• Dr Mad Thrust Machine Gun Effect Unit: This is arguably the simplest dedicated unit available. It is lightweight, includes a built-in speaker, and plugs directly into a spare channel on your RC receiver. It triggers a rapid-fire machine gun sound at the flip of a transmitter switch.
• Model Radio Workshop Gun Flasher with Sound (MRW44): Available from retailers like Sussex Model Centre, this highly compact UK-made module hooks up to your receiver. Along with a machine gun audio track, it provides wiring outputs to connect wing-mounted LEDs, allowing gun flashes to sync perfectly with the sound.
• Sense Innovations ESS-Air: If you want a premium setup, the ESS-Air Engine Sound Module combines a realistic WW2 radial or inline engine sound with an auxiliary "gunfire" channel. The gunfire sound can be assigned to a separate switch on your radio. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

[xviper]

I'm sure one of you geniuses out there has the answer to the vent under the fuselage behind the main scoop. I know that it uses the Meredith Effect on the real P-51 for cooling and a slight boost of thrust but not sure if it opens wide at slow speed for better cooling and closes more at high speed. I believe thats correct but just wanted to make sure. The vent on my 1700mm P-51 originally came operating the opposite way, and I used a servo reverser to change it. Just want to make sure I changed it correctly.

Currently fitting out that pig with an Eflight Power 60 470 Kv motor, which I also have in my Hangar Nine 60" Beast Bi-Plane and love it. Stock motor was a 360Kv gerbil wheel. Ordered from Xoar in China some custom props black with yellow tip 17X7 2 blade electric props (same as my Beast uses) and some black with yellow tip 16X7 3 blade props. Tried a MasterScrew 3 blade 16X8 but the hub is way too thick and the prop fairly heavy. Found some 4" Spinners for 2 blades at Extreme Flight and some 4" 3 blade aluminum spinners from Z Hobby, so getting down to the finishing touches. It either wakes this elephant up or it's going to the Old Folks Home!!

I'm no genius but take this for what it's worth. I've seen a few videos of the FMS P-51 1700mm and in the ones where we could see the door working, the rear "cooling door" is tied to flaps. As flaps go down, the door opens - part way for 1/2 flaps and full open for full flaps. That's the way mine works. It makes sense to me that as the plane flies slower, the cooler needs more air going thru it to keep the temps down. It's not a problem at speed. I'm not certain how it is on the real Mustang but a Google search confirmed that it opens when going slow to provide more air flow and act as a "heat dump". You can see it on Horizon Hobby's video starting at 5:23 .......

If you go back a page or 2, you can see my impressions of how the FMS performs with the Flightline motor and propeller performs. If you put in the 470kv, Power 60 and a decent prop, your plane should be a real "beast". With that motor, I would worry that the stock FMS prop won't hold. Your hunt for a more bulletproof prop is a wise decision. At least for me, a Mustang should have a 4-blade prop.
Somewhere is the recesses of my memory, I seem to recall RCInformer tried the V1 P-51 (300kv) on 7 or 8 cells and it was VERY much improved. There was never a mention about whether or not the motor (or prop) could take it or for how long. For me, I'm satified with the minor improvement using the FL power system. Do let us know how the Power 60 works for you.

[Hugh Wiedman]

I'm no genius but take this for what it's worth. I've seen a few videos of the FMS P-51 1700mm and in the ones where we could see the door working, the rear "cooling door" is tied to flaps. As flaps go down, the door opens - part way for 1/2 flaps and full open for full flaps. That's the way mine works. It makes sense to me that as the plane flies slower, the cooler needs more air going thru it to keep the temps down. It's not a problem at speed. I'm not certain how it is on the real Mustang but a Google search confirmed that it opens when going slow to provide more air flow and act as a "heat dump". You can see it on Horizon Hobby's video starting at 5:23 .......

If you go back a page or 2, you can see my impressions of how the FMS performs with the Flightline motor and propeller performs. If you put in the 470kv, Power 60 and a decent prop, your plane should be a real "beast". With that motor, I would worry that the stock FMS prop won't hold. Your hunt for a more bulletproof prop is a wise decision. At least for me, a Mustang should have a 4-blade prop.
Somewhere is the recesses of my memory, I seem to recall RCInformer tried the V1 P-51 (300kv) on 7 or 8 cells and it was VERY much improved. There was never a mention about whether or not the motor (or prop) could take it or for how long. For me, I'm satified with the minor improvement using the FL power system. Do let us know how the Power 60 works for you.

That's how I have it now, tied to flaps and opens more at slower speeds as the flaps open. Would have liked to find a good Beechwood 4 blade electric prop, but they're just not out there for electrics. So an Xoar 3 blade Beechwood electric prop was the best I could come up with, even had to have Xoar make these for me. Couldn't really find a decent 4" 4 blade spinner either, so I'll have to live with the 3 blade!