downwindleg/Aros ESM 50cc F4U Corsair Build (Electric Conversion)

[Grossman56]

WOW!!
Huge fan of Baa Baa Blacksheep as well as well as the man himself


Grossman56

[Aros]

Welcome Synwpn! I too was in awe of those mighty Corsairs from Baa Baa Black Sheep. Fond memories of watching that show with my dad. As much as I love the P-38, P-51 and other iconic warbirds, I always thought there was something mean and majestic looking about the Corsair. I can't wait to get her all finished up and get to work on the detailing and weathering (AFTER the maiden, lol)...

As for the build, I am looking for how best to emulate the button-type of rivet work as you can see on the canopy below. I think it looks fantastic and I want to have those mixed with the depressed type as well (you can see both in the photo). Any thoughts?

[downwindleg]

The old riveting tool is all I'm aware of which involves a hypodermic syringe connected to a plastic bottle. In the old days you would fill the bottle with RC-56 canopy glue thinned with water and squeeze tiny droplets through the syringe onto the surface to form those rivet heads. When it dried, it was ready for paint. It takes some practice to get the hang of it. Very time consuming but well worth it. You might check with Frank Tiano to see if he still sells them. Brad

[Aros]

Cool thanks Brad I will check into that. I think I came across something like that recently...Maybe it's an improved method these days? But then again, there are just certain things you must go walk the many grueling miles for, and rivets is one of them.

[Grossman56]

My thought on the indented rivets would be to use a small nail with the proper sized head, pushed gently into the plane. For your scale, that may be an option.

Grossman56

[F106DeltaDart]

Cool thanks Brad I will check into that. I think I came across something like that recently...Maybe it's an improved method these days? But then again, there are just certain things you must go walk the many grueling miles for, and rivets is one of them.

Take a look at the Starwood scale models rivet kit. It is more or less the same syringe/glue method, but includes a variety of tips for different rivet sizes and a very nice rivet solution. That is what I used for doing the rivet detail on my Apache.

[Aros]

Oh nice F106...I will definitely check that out, your Apache looks sweet! Thanks!

[Aros]

I checked that kit out, it looks like exactly what I need so thanks again! I will grab a kit and start tinkering. The key is to research how many were "button" or raised and how many where flat or recessed. I don't want to do the entire Corsair in button-type rivets as I know the full scale doesn't have that, but some strategically-placed button rivets could really work great along with the flat/recessed type.

[F106DeltaDart]

I checked that kit out, it looks like exactly what I need so thanks again! I will grab a kit and start tinkering.

:Cool:

[downwindleg]

Good thing your favorite plane isn't a Hellcat. That whole plane is raised rivets!!!:Scared:Brad

[Aros]

LOL LOL

[Wesnc]

Try Mirces Finish Set,
I am currently kit bashing an ESM J2M3 Raiden, which will be electric also. I am using the "Finish Set". These detail sets are great products, easy to use, quick to apply with a really effective result. Mirce is also very helpful. I have attached a photo of the Raiden and Mirces Hellcat.

http://www.nsmodelers.rs/home/detail-finish-set

[Grossman56]

I checked that kit out, it looks like exactly what I need so thanks again! I will grab a kit and start tinkering. The key is to research how many were "button" or raised and how many where flat or recessed. I don't want to do the entire Corsair in button-type rivets as I know the full scale doesn't have that, but some strategically-placed button rivets could really work great along with the flat/recessed type.

A quick trip to the Museum of Flight will solve all your problems, a good excuse to go there as well. Will be flying into Seattle on Nov.3 on our way to Vancouver BC for my mom's 90th. A four hour lay over, dang would almost be worth hopping out to the museum, I'd just hate to miss the flight though.

Grossman56

[downwindleg]

Try Mirces Finish Set,
I am currently kit bashing an ESM J2M3 Raiden, which will be electric also. I am using the "Finish Set". These detail sets are great products, easy to use, quick to apply with a really effective result. Mirce is also very helpful. I have attached a photo of the Raiden and Mirces Hellcat.
http://www.nsmodelers.rs/home/detail-finish-set

My hat is off to you Sir. Great workmanship on the rivet detail. Brad

[Aros]

Try Mirces Finish Set,
I am currently kit bashing an ESM J2M3 Raiden, which will be electric also. I am using the "Finish Set". These detail sets are great products, easy to use, quick to apply with a really effective result. Mirce is also very helpful. I have attached a photo of the Raiden and Mirces Hellcat.
http://www.nsmodelers.rs/home/detail-finish-set

Excellent work! Looks fantastic! Another great resource to check out so thank you!

[Aros]

A quick trip to the Museum of Flight will solve all your problems, a good excuse to go there as well. Will be flying into Seattle on Nov.3 on our way to Vancouver BC for my mom's 90th. A four hour lay over, dang would almost be worth hopping out to the museum, I'd just hate to miss the flight though.

Grossman56

You don't have to twist my arm too much to go to the Museum of Flight. Good call!

[downwindleg]

Try Mirces Finish Set,
I am currently kit bashing an ESM J2M3 Raiden, which will be electric also. I am using the "Finish Set". These detail sets are great products, easy to use, quick to apply with a really effective result. Mirce is also very helpful. I have attached a photo of the Raiden and Mirces Hellcat.
http://www.nsmodelers.rs/home/detail-finish-set

Wow, very cool system. I am wondering if "flite metal" would work over the top of the flush rivets. Anybody have any experience with that? Brad

[Aros]

Measured the depth of the cockpit (I got it in the mail yesterday, it's so awesome thanks Anthony!) and it's 4.5". From the cockpit ridge (where the rails will go to open/close the canopy) to the pushrods is 3.5". So I need to decide if its worth the trouble to lower the pushrods another inch so the cockpit can fit full depth (could be quite the chore as we would have to cut the formers and relocate) or if it's possible to cut a channel out of the bottom of the cockpit to allow them to stay where they are. I really don't want to do that but if it saves a lot of hassle it may be worth exploring. I can paint the pushrod housing the same green zinc chromate and plus once Pappy is sitting inside there's a good chance you wouldn't even notice them at all. Thoughts?

[downwindleg]

If there is a way to cut a channel or two slots for the cables, I don't think Pappy would mind. It could just be like the old transmission hump of my first car and Pappy could "ride the hump" as we used to say.LOLBrad

[Aros]

Ha! Yeah I was reviewing the push rods and there's 8 total pushrods/pull-pulls which spans the width of the fuse/cockpit floor. Not sure if that's doable. My only option could be to cut the former and lower the entire bracket/rods/wires down over an inch. Might have to sweeten the pot for Chris, lol.