downwindleg/Aros ESM 50cc F4U Corsair Build (Electric Conversion)

[Aros]

I agree it's likely the weight theory and not actually binding. We'll test them out. Thanks for the input!

[fhhuber]

Digitals under flight load will actually use less power than the Analog servos.

I've done testing with a data logger to confirm this.

[OV10]

Digitals under flight load will actually use less power than the Analog servos.

I've done testing with a data logger to confirm this.

Interesting..................wasn't aware of this(cause I don't have loggers). Is this true for all sizes including biguns going into 30 lb birds?

[fhhuber]

in-oz of servo being equal (as close as possible)...and flight load being equal

I used Hitec analog and Hitec Digitals so the ratings being by the same maker would balance any "marketing inflation"

Digitals draw more under light loads and less near stall.

[downwindleg]

That was exactly the explanation I was given when I decided to use the digitals. Plus, the power is there when you need it with a heavy plane on approach with full flaps. Not a good time for weanie servos....just sayin'.
Brad

[AkumaZeto]

Use 5th scale stuff :) I use these in my 5th scale buggies
Savox 0.17/555.5 High Voltage Servo (1/5 Scale)

[Aros]

I'll keep those in mind! We will be doing plenty of bench and ground testing before her feet ever leave the earth so we should have a good feel for all systems - and if anything needs to be changed out.

[rifleman_btx]

Indeed, it'll be great!

[Aros]

I ordered the upgrade canopy from VQ Warbirds and it arrived today. It is listed on the product page as "heavy duty Clear ABS". It's about as flimsy as the factory one...Hmm...Was expecting it to be a tiny bit firmer/thicker. At any rate I was wondering if anyone could offer a suggestion for the perfect cutting tool. Too thick for even a brand new sharp hobby knife and the compound curves and angles will require a precision, deadly sharp instrument (and steady hand).

I plan on cutting close to the cut lines but leaving a mm or two as a buffer and then sanding to the cut lines. When I cut the factory canopy (to allow for sliding) it chipped off at one section. VQ claims this upgrade is crack-resistant but I still would like a little buffer zone just in case.

Any ideas/techniques are appreciated!

[boomer108]

Hey Aros, try a dremmel with a cutting wheel for plastics.

[rifleman_btx]

+1 on the dremmel idea

[Aros]

I was thinking my dremmel would make a lot of sense. Good call, thanks!

Now the trick is figuring out what kind of guide to use to cut the canopy in half (where the two pieces would meet and separate for sliding) in a perfectly straight cut keeping in mind I have no precision machinery.

Lord have mercy. LOL

[RRHandy]

Use tape, get it strait and will protect the rest also. R.

[Aros]

Any specific kind of tape?

[boomer108]

Aros, you can try getting some modeling clay and packing the inside of the canopy so it won't flex on you and also keeps it steady if you want to place it on a flat surface to cut. Also don't try cutting with your forearm in mid air, brace it on something solid at the right height. And to answer your question about tape, just use masking tape. Good luck!

[Prowler901]

A nice sharp pair of scissors will cut that. And, easier to guide in my mind.

[Aros]

Thanks boomer!

Prowler, I did try cutting (the outer section material to test) using our sharpest scissors and it's, well...meh. I suppose it would be doable to use scissors to cut within a couple mm's or so (not to be confused with M&M's, those don't last long in our household L O L ! )...

But I did notice a little fracturing of the material when trying to negotiate those curves from the aft section especially (bottom to top).

Thanks again for all of your advice, it is very helpful. I think I am going to start with my dremmel. Cut the outline as close as I feel comfortable to the actual line and finish it off with some lighter grit sandpaper. I will use the advice of tape to mask off the sliding cut line and take my time to cut as straight as I can with a dremmel then finish again with some lighter grit sandpaper.

I spoke too soon on the quality. Upon further inspection, the stock canopy definitely is thinner and flimsier than this upgrade version. Unfortunately one of the window panes (of course it has to be the port side) has that textured surface which is not perfectly clear like the other panes are. Something in the mold process for sure. The stock panes are much clearer surprisingly so I may invest in the time to remove and replace pane(s) where needed. After all, what's the point if you can't showcase the brilliant work of Akuma Zeto's Pappy and PlasticAviator's cockpit work?

;)

[Prowler901]

Good call on testing it out. It doesn't look that thick in the picture. So, it must be pretty stiff. Sounds like you got the right plan going forward. :Cool:

[Aros]

Yeah it's weird. Sometimes I think it's too flimsy and other times I think it's just right. Definitely thick enough to make cutting precise lines and curves with scissors a serious chore. I just tried my dremmel and that will have its challenges too...I need to change the cutting blade to a smaller, thinner blade but that should get me close. Something tells me the REAL work will come in the final sanding to get the outline as close as possible to the actual shape.

[RRHandy]

When I need to make cut outs I put tape (masking) over the area that I need. Seeing you're trying to cut a curve, if you have a small flexible ruler you can use it to make your cut line then put another layer of tape as a guide for the cut.
Looks like you have extra plastic from the replacement that you could use to reinforce the original around the edges to make it stiffer I would think? R.