Hey Dan. I'm not Paul but yes it is available in gloss as well.
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Dewey l -
Home Depot, at least in Santa Fe, stocks all sheens of Varathane. I wonder why it is so difficult to find elswhere. It's a shame. It out performs Minwax by miles! DocComment
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Here in central Florida, I have about 20 Home Depots within a 50 mile radius. An online check reveals none of these stores stock Varathane Spar. Can be shipped to store, but requires a 2 can minimum order.Originally posted by doctormike View Post
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I ordered mine from Depot here, 2 cans for $28: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathane...241H/202057149Originally posted by Paul1PA View PostComment
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The Home Depots in my area have stopped carrying the Outdoor version of Varathane, but they never had it in Matte anyway. But they do carry the indoor version in Matte in both Varathane and Minwax. I think from now on I'll use the outdoor version of Minwax Gloss as a base coat, and then finish with the indoor version of Varathane Matte. That is unless I want the plane to be shiny, then no Matte finish coat.PatComment
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That's a good plan Pat, if the stuff is going to get to be hard to find, I might have to check out the Minwax outdoor version as well. Or buy a case and sell some off at Nefi or something.
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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I simply ordered mine from Amazon and had it in two days. I am done with Minwax as well. I never cold get it to work on my F-7. This is what I am using on m new A-1: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5MRRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It goes on easily and dries real fast. I like the finish.Comment
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Yep, that's the stuff! As I've mentioned before, if it's an unpainted (white) plane like the Pandora, there will be mold release on it which will cause the Varathane to bead. Simply rub it off with a cloth and allow it to dry, then recoat. By allowing it to bead, you're gathering up the oil based mold release, then wiping up the beads takes the mold release off the plane.
I stumbled on this by accident a couple of years back when first trying Minwax. Then I analyzed what had just happened, it made complete sense. A lot of guys were/are using Acetone to remove the residue, but by just wiping up the beads, you get the same results without the Acetone fumes.
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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I just purchased my first ever foamy airplane, a HK Grand Tundra. Thought that this might be a good plane to get back into flying planks. :-) I bought MiniWax Polycrylic and some some foam brushes from HD a week ago. Now I find this thread so will probably put that on my paint shelf for a while and buy some Varathane Exterior Gloss, or Helmsman or whatever I can find locally for applying this weekend.
Ok, so now a rookie question... Can I apply over the foam hinge surfaces, aileron, rudder, and elevator, or should I avoid painting those areas? And, do I tape over plastic pieces and clear plastic housings for the LED lights, or just paint over them? I do not want to over complicate this project, but thought I better ask.
This thread is now over a year old without any recent action, but it has been a very productive read. I did notice that Grossman56 might need a shave! Oh sorry, just kidding!
Thank you for your comments!
SteveComment
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Welcome Rogue 22! Yes you can clear over the foam hinges I do it all the time. It will add additional strength to the hinge as the Varathane and also Minwax are flexible. As far as the plastic you can also clear over that also or not, but don't go over the clear lenses. One more thing three coats is good but four is even better and doesn't add any weight. Good luck!Comment
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Originally posted by Rogue22 View Post
Welcome Rouge!! Glad you are here! Just cover your clear parts, especially the canopy and have at it! Enjoy the weekend...;) The Grand Tundra doesn’t have a canopy, but you get the idea!Comment
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First, thank you both for the welcome! So much has changed as far as airplane construction from when I first started flying in the early 1970s! :Cool: I got out of RC for many years, but very happy to see some of the advancements. Thank you too for the comments. I will tape over the lenses and other clear parts in the future. I went to my local HD to by Varathane Spar exterior water based gloss, but not in stock, so ordered and will take a week or so to arrive. Won't be long and I am sure worth the wait. Thanks again.
SteveComment
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I will be using this with 0.5 oz. glass cloth on the Ryan STA - works great for the plastic parts too!Comment
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Hi all...!
I was just thinking... anyone use a clear tape product on the leading edge of wings, etc? Then paint over with the clear? Or clear then tape? Better leading edge protection.
and I’m interested in the clear coats also because, coming from a modeling background, the somewhat glossy look or some decals (outside the lettering and on edges) is very bothersome and detracts from the models appearance. I’m hoping the clear hides this decal film making the surface seem smoother and the decal appear actually painted onto the surface.
im thinking the real trick to someone who wants to strive for realism in apparence is to balance the true purpose or the aircraft (flying!) with realistic ground appeal. Once the model gets 10feet away they all mostly look pretty good.
which leads me to the foam look of many up close.... don’t know if I’ll ever get used to that! But I’m not ready to skim all my planes, sand and repaint to hide foam structure just yet!Comment
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The foam is getting consistently better, my Flightline 1600mm Spitfire is great, the best yet, my FMS 1400mm P-40 isn't very good, everything else falls in between.
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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Works great on wood with fiberglass too!Comment
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Any other suggestions? I couldn't find Minwax Polycrylic exterior anywhere. Not Home Depot, Ace Hardware or on Amazon. Ace checked for me and said they don't make it anymore. I could only find the Minwax Polyurethane oil based stuff for exterior. The only Varathane exterior stuff I could find that was water based also said it was polyurethane. Is this okay to use on our type of foam? Thanks!Originally posted by CT View Post
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Va...ne+water+basedComment
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https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-622224...WNP16Q6YTZGMPM
For Matte Finish and
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Va...ne+clear+gloss
For Gloss finish.
BUT!
If you can find the Minwax Pro Series Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor Clear Gloss 32 fl oz. This stuff ROCKS. Try Ace Hardware. I know you can get it at Lowes online, but they only show a gallon size,
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Pro-...nish/999918590
at $50, so, depends on how you look at it, one can, taken care of and I'll never have to buy the stuff again, or too expensive, I'll try and find the 32 oz size. They may order it in for you..
At any rate, here's a tip (repeated again) for best gloss results, use a brush, I prefer an Artist grade soft brush, but a foam brush will do in a pinch. I brush it on fairly thick and watch for runs while hitting it with a hair dryer. Two or three coats and WOW!!
For best matte results, use a spray gun, it comes out flatter than using a brush, the best matte finish I've found is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0BDMEJSDDGDP5Z
So there you go.
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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Wow, that's a pretty severe CG shift. Anyone else experience this after a coat or two of Minwax/Varathane? I haven't read about it anywhere else.Originally posted by Wisconsin John View PostComment
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One ounce in the tail takes 3 in the nose to balance out as a general rule. I saw a giant scale B-26 and a 1/3 scale Laser 200 both bite the dust due to not balancing after painting. Both had successful maidens in primer.... So, it depends on the application of the clear and the solid content of the finish....Comment
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