Repair finished--wicked very liberal amount of thin CA in underside crack and Retract mount...hit with liberal amount of CA kicker. After stabilized, coated top of small wing area with 30-min epoxy and 1 layer of ultra-thin fiberglass cloth. Soaked in and cured overnight; Beacon Foam Finish to smooth and match airfoil curve; primed with 2 light coats of Testor enamel primer (grey). Followed with two coats of Rustoleum metallic aluminum enamel and 2 coats of Varathane gloss.
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Originally posted by deadbug View PostRepair finished--wicked very liberal amount of thin CA in underside crack and Retract mount...hit with a liberal amount of CA kicker. After stabilized, coated top of small wing area with 30-min epoxy and 1 layer of ultra-thin fiberglass cloth. Soaked in and cured overnight; Beacon Foam Finish to smooth and match airfoil curve; primed with 2 light coats of Testor enamel primer (grey). Followed with two coats of Rustoleum metallic aluminum enamel and 2 coats of Varathane gloss.I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Originally posted by doctormike View PostThe Doctor****ADDENDUM. Use VARATHANE waterbase polyurethane instead of Minwax. It is MUCH better quality. Sorry, guys. I just learned this. The Doctor
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Great thread. I bought Minwax MATTE from walmart and I be darn if it still has a shine to it.
I did notice when it came to putting it on color reds I had to apply it heavy and then spread it out, had to keep the brush (foam) soaked
I want to try Varathane matte, know any where to get it that is not a gallon?Planes
-E-Flite: 1.2m P-47, Maule, Turbo Timber, 1.5m AT-6, 1.2m T-28, Dallas Doll, Viper, F-15, F-16, Wildcat, Carbon Cub -UMX: Mig-15, Pitts, Timber
-FMS: Bae Hawk Motion: 1.6m Corsair, 850mm Mustang, 1.6m Spitfire Freewing: 1.7m A-10, F-22,
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Will 91% alcohol break the paint? I think it will. If you are going to repaint the plane, then, it does not matter. I tried to coat my new F4U with minwax and had an awful time getting it to stick. I had to sand it down using various grits of paper before I got a finish I could live with. I think it took at least 4 coats and sanding between each coat before reached a point of acceptable finish. What help was sanding and then using the spray tape and sanding again and using a foam brush. This is the very first time I had this issue. There was oil somewhere on the finish. The plane looks really nice now and I will leave good enough alone.
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Originally posted by thisguy65 View PostGreat thread. I bought Minwax MATTE from walmart and I be darn if it still has a shine to it.
I did notice when it came to putting it on color reds I had to apply it heavy and then spread it out, had to keep the brush (foam) soaked
I want to try Varathane matte, know any where to get it that is not a gallon?
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Originally posted by boomer108 View Post
I don't know where you a located, but I get mine from Menards.Planes
-E-Flite: 1.2m P-47, Maule, Turbo Timber, 1.5m AT-6, 1.2m T-28, Dallas Doll, Viper, F-15, F-16, Wildcat, Carbon Cub -UMX: Mig-15, Pitts, Timber
-FMS: Bae Hawk Motion: 1.6m Corsair, 850mm Mustang, 1.6m Spitfire Freewing: 1.7m A-10, F-22,
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BTW, Could'nt get the Spar Urethane outdoor water based at Home Depot, so ordered it from Amazon a week ago (satin, semi-gloss and gloss). Amazon just sent me a notice that UPS damaged the shipment and is returning it to Amazon and they will credit me. So I just ordered them from Zoro, should have done that to begin with. Free shipping and never had a problem with Zoro.Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: Mig 29 "Cobra", 8S EuroFighter-Bronze Tiger, A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, 8S F16 Wild Weasel, 8S F4 Jolly Rodgers & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, B-24, Stinger 90, Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 62" Extra 300, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" Edge Demonstrator. FMS-SU-30,1700mm P-51, Corsair, Viper, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P51.
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Originally posted by Pheonix View PostWill 91% alcohol break the paint? I think it will. If you are going to repaint the plane, then, it does not matter. I tried to coat my new F4U with minwax and had an awful time getting it to stick. I had to sand it down using various grits of paper before I got a finish I could live with. I think it took at least 4 coats and sanding between each coat before reached a point of acceptable finish. What help was sanding and then using the spray tape and sanding again and using a foam brush. This is the very first time I had this issue. There was oil somewhere on the finish. The plane looks really nice now and I will leave good enough alone.
In general I wipe a model down with alcohol wipes then paint directly over the factory paint without any sanding or primer. However, certain paints will prefer light sanding to give more "bite". Vallejo's line of 2-in-1 primers works really well in my experience.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View Post
Acetone will break the paint fairly quickly. 91% alcohol isn't as aggressive.
In general I wipe a model down with alcohol wipes then paint directly over the factory paint without any sanding or primer. However, certain paints will prefer light sanding to give more "bite". Vallejo's line of 2-in-1 primers works really well in my experience.Planes
-E-Flite: 1.2m P-47, Maule, Turbo Timber, 1.5m AT-6, 1.2m T-28, Dallas Doll, Viper, F-15, F-16, Wildcat, Carbon Cub -UMX: Mig-15, Pitts, Timber
-FMS: Bae Hawk Motion: 1.6m Corsair, 850mm Mustang, 1.6m Spitfire Freewing: 1.7m A-10, F-22,
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Anyone else have the problem with the Minwax poly spraying out blobs every now and again ? I have tried shaking can for ever, heating can in hot water, leaving can in sun (Florida) and does not solve. I usually spray by starting, making the pass and stopping. Continual spraying does not work any better. Nozzle is clean. Getting nervous now when I start. If quick can wipe away these blobs but ————. Finding brushing is the safer option lately. Applies to any sheen level.
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Originally posted by thisguy65 View PostGreat thread. I bought Minwax MATTE from walmart and I be darn if it still has a shine to it.
I did notice when it came to putting it on color reds I had to apply it heavy and then spread it out, had to keep the brush (foam) soaked
I want to try Varathane matte, know any where to get it that is not a gallon?
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
Trying using an airbrush it will give you a flatter finish.
Grossman56
of the spar utherne that people mention have better results.Planes
-E-Flite: 1.2m P-47, Maule, Turbo Timber, 1.5m AT-6, 1.2m T-28, Dallas Doll, Viper, F-15, F-16, Wildcat, Carbon Cub -UMX: Mig-15, Pitts, Timber
-FMS: Bae Hawk Motion: 1.6m Corsair, 850mm Mustang, 1.6m Spitfire Freewing: 1.7m A-10, F-22,
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Originally posted by Russ View Post
I've been using Minwax for years on my foamies, thanks for the tip, I'll try it. Never thought of using it as a primer...nice!
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Originally posted by Grossman56 View PostFrom my experience, I've found that a brush will give you a glossier finish and an Air Brush will give you a duller finish. Probably something to do with blasting it on with air, but I'm not sure, I only know that its true.
Grossman56
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Boy, that's a tough one, the only thing I can think of to do is to paint the bottom and sides of the hatch (I gather that what you're referring to is the whole hatch and not just the canopy) push it home and see where the paint is disturbed. Other than that, I really haven't any alternative. Hope that will at least show you where its hanging up.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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