Official Freewing 90mm F-4 Phantom II Thread

[Elbee]

I just bought a Grey Ghost F4. I have a custom order in with callie graphics to do VMFA-251 graphics (my father's favorite squadron where he served).

TB, Great lookin' livery, Sir. Best, LB

[TedBull]

TB, Great lookin' livery, Sir. Best, LB

[TedBull]

Our last name is Coggburn. The nickname "Rooster" has been with my father, my older brother, and myself. Sadly my son's generation probably doesn't even know who John Wayne is. Or Jeff bridges. I like both versions of the movie true grit. Anyways, my father was the maintenance chief, and "Rooster's Raiders" was a name given to his crew. Callie graphics is including that decal to go on the landing gear door.

[TedBull]

[Elbee]

Our last name is Coggburn. The nickname "Rooster" has been with my father, my older brother, and myself. Sadly my son's generation probably doesn't even know who John Wayne is. Or Jeff bridges. I like both versions of the movie true grit. Anyways, my father was the maintenance chief, and "Rooster's Raiders" was a name given to his crew. Callie graphics is including that decal to go on the landing gear door.

TB, I thank you and your family for your service. There is nothing more powerful in the service than tradition and it's legacy. Bravo Zulu, Sir. I look forward to your build pics. And if you want some of the 3DP bits I added to my Phantom, there are pics somewhere in this forum, let me know. I will be happy to assist with STL files or parts if you'll send me your geo info. Best, LB

[TedBull]

I just pulled the tail section out of the box. The servo is glued in there pretty well. The pushrod is for sure flimsy. Think I want to upgrade all the pushrods. What rod ends and ball links are you using? Can you post a link? And a link to the 4-40 all thread ans carbon fiber sleeve? Thanks.

[t33jetman]

I'm working on something new

[fhhuber]

I just pulled the tail section out of the box. The servo is glued in there pretty well. The pushrod is for sure flimsy. Think I want to upgrade all the pushrods. What rod ends and ball links are you using? Can you post a link? And a link to the 4-40 all thread ans carbon fiber sleeve? Thanks.

I bought a package of Traxxas ball links Meant for RC car steering.
I think it was this package

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-1942-Rod-long-short/dp/B003T6XJ96/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_21_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M5JC9RPHZBKBVTPB6320

4-40 all thread

https://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-379-4-40-Fully-Threaded/dp/B0006O4H36/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=dubro+4-40+all+thread&qid=1567423149&s=toys-and-games&sr=1-5

CF tube

https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Pultruded-Strength-Hobbies-Projects/dp/B07KWFTMKP

Not the exact tube I used. It has to be 3mm ID to pass the 4-40 all thread.

I got my supplies a the local hobby shop.
The ones linked will work but may not be the best prices.

Cut the all thread to proper length to have at least 6 turns of threads engaged in both ball links.

Cut the CF tube to length so it will have appx 1/4 inch of adjustment possible tightening the second ball link vs what you think is the correct length pushrod.
Part of this is taken up by a 4-40 nut that will end up epoxied in place.

To epoxy the CF to the rod, put one ball link on the rod at least 6 turns
Apply epoxy to the threaded rod starting at appx 1/2inch from the end without the ball link coating it to the ball link.
Slide on the tube, turning it as you slide it on. It should push a little epoxy off that you have to clean up. (with practice you learn how thick to coat the rod.. too much is better than not enough)

Put a 4-40 nut on to hold the tube against the ball link and trap the epoxy.
Lay it on newspaper to cure.

Since the tube is mainly to prevent bending, some air in the tube is not a major problem. By laying it flat, the rod will bond to the tube very well with all the air on the side that is left up.

For inserting a short piece of threaded rd in each end f a long tube the technique is similar, but you's position the rod vertically with the end being glued down and a nut, clevise or ball link would trap the glue.

These pushrods are short enough that the weight of all thread full length in the tube is insignificant vs enough in the tube to make a secure bond with just inserted threaded rod ends.

You want less than 1/4 inch of threaded rod exposed between ball link and CF tube or nut.

With more practice setting this style pushrod up, you can get it down to 3 turns of exposed threads once the aircraft is properly trimmed.

[fhhuber]

Removing the glued in servo.. slide a sharp knife down each side and cut most of the glue free.
Its OK to take some foam, since the purpose is to open air passage to cool the servo.

Taking measurements from anther servo to find where the wire exit the servo (so you don't cut it) Apply masking tape to the knife to mark s you will stay 1/4 inch from the wire and cut the servo free at the front and back.

You should now be able to pull the servo.

Adjust the servo opening by cutting foam for the replacement (if putting in a "full size" servo, as I have) mounting rails or ply plate and cooling air passages.

[Evan D]

Here are my previously posted picks of my first try at a better pushrod. The link itself bent so I made a even stronger one.

[themudduck]

Here's what mine looks like "after". Its a heavy rod and 4-40 ball link, very secure. (Since this pic was take I have also reinforced the servo mount)

[TedBull]

Awesome. Thanks for the links, pics, and descriptions.

[Evan D]

Please note on mine I use the servo inner hole on the arm. I do this on most to increase the torque the servo can provide. I also usually dial in the appropriate increase in servo throw which also increases the servos resolution. Doing this on the F-4 elevator, F-18 pitch stabs, ailerons and flaps and on other planes could be the reason that I have had none of the servo issues others have reported.

[fhhuber]

Looks like the DuBro 4-40 ball link. They are lighter than the Traxxas, but definitely up to the task. I went with the Traxxas simply because they were far less expensive at the local hobby shop.

[EA-6B Geek]

I'm working on something new

I met the T33jetman today at the E-Jets event In Ohio. His F-4 is looking amazing, and ready for a possible maiden tomorrow. Had to get a photo of our Phantoms out on the runway.

[Aros]

Along side of the A-10 and F-22, this F-4 has to be the best Freewing jet ever released. Such a great jet.

[Elbee]

Along side of the A-10 and F-22, this F-4 has to be the best Freewing jet ever released. Such a great jet.

Aros, I love my A-10, though the Freewing Phantom is so 'dang pretty' when finished out well. I'd build another and possibly one more after that. Best, LB

Ps: Great picture Gentlemen. Again, well done.

[RuthR720]

Only 25 feet is required to takeoff from a ramp. I may build a portable runway next.

https://youtu.be/P6d8VxsG_ig

[Bobaroo]

Only 25 feet is required to takeoff from a ramp. I may build a portable runway next.
https://youtu.be/P6d8VxsG_ig

Frighteningly Awesome !!! You must have one of those 'good' Connecting Pins on that NoseGear ! Well done.

[t33jetman]

I met EA-6B GEEK, who was very nice to me and very helpful in setting up my plane