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Official Freewing Twin 80mm F-14D Tomcat Thread

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  • Evan D
    replied
    So many people say there’s no such thing!

    Leave a comment:


  • radfordc
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    I really don't think I can say every time it happened that I was working the rudder but I fly by instinct and may have. Loosing lift at the tip would be my assumption caused by getting too high alpha. The tip looses lift on this before the rest of the wing since it's cord is much narrower. Assume the people that know more of the physics can add to the why in a much more educated way.
    OK. You just described a tip stall.

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  • Evan D
    replied
    I really don't think I can say every time it happened that I was working the rudder but I fly by instinct and may have. Loosing lift at the tip would be my assumption caused by getting too high alpha. The tip looses lift on this before the rest of the wing since it's cord is much narrower. Assume the people that know more of the physics can add to the why in a much more educated way.

    Leave a comment:


  • radfordc
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    Mine, too. With mine, I think it drops a wing as a result of rudder input when trying to get it more lined up with the runway centerline. Rudder input seems to induce roll.
    That makes sense. I think the real F-14 would roll when yawed. Some videos of the F-14 make it clear that you couldn't use just ailerons to roll the plane when close to a stall.

    Leave a comment:


  • radfordc
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    mine had a nasty tendency to drop a wing at touch down (notice I didn't say tip stall).
    What causes a wing to drop when the plane is slow?

    Leave a comment:


  • kallend
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    What ever brace you use, the end that slides needs to be blocked at the further travel or it'll just ram itself past that point and derail. Any block you make has to be very sturdy and well secured. Even on the SU-35, that brace isn't much of a brace. And when you make a sturdy "backstop" for the brace and you nail the ground hard enough, the nose retract body simply cracks because there's no "give" in the strut due to the solid brace (if the brace itself doesn't break). Which is worse ................ a bent strut pin or a cracked retract body? I've been getting better with my landings but it just takes one hard thump onto grass and the nose gear will be damaged again. I'm thinking of getting something like these:
    https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...roduct_id=7360
    And all metal nose retract.
    https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...=alloy+retract
    I have a "cosmetic" brace (the slider) and a real one that fits in the wheel well behind the leg, very similar to the popular Avanti brace. I didn't pay much attention to which one he was using.

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by kallend View Post

    Thanks. I fly from a hard runway but unfortunately it is quite short and, except for deltas that can be slowed right down at high alpha, most EDFs overrun into the grass - even those flown by far better pilots than me. So I'll probably take a hard look at the landing gear. (I saw that someone in the thread mentioned using my SU35 nosegear brace on his F-14).
    What ever brace you use, the end that slides needs to be blocked at the further travel or it'll just ram itself past that point and derail. Any block you make has to be very sturdy and well secured. Even on the SU-35, that brace isn't much of a brace. And when you make a sturdy "backstop" for the brace and you nail the ground hard enough, the nose retract body simply cracks because there's no "give" in the strut due to the solid brace (if the brace itself doesn't break). Which is worse ................ a bent strut pin or a cracked retract body? I've been getting better with my landings but it just takes one hard thump onto grass and the nose gear will be damaged again. I'm thinking of getting something like these:
    https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...roduct_id=7360
    And all metal nose retract.
     - Suitable For Plane Up To 6Kgs.- Working Voltage:  5V - 6V- Angle:  90 °- Speed:  5.2 sec (5v) - 4.3 sec (6v)- Pin Diameter Size: 5 mm- Torque: 12kg cm- Retracts Sizes:  26 mm x 73 mm x 18 mm- Retracts Mounting Plate Sizes: 33mm x 37 mm

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    Remember that the F-14 with wings out is a floater and very trainer like. It can really slow down though mine had a nasty tendency to drop a wing at touch down (notice I didn't say tip stall).
    Mine, too. With mine, I think it drops a wing as a result of rudder input when trying to get it more lined up with the runway centerline. Rudder input seems to induce roll so I tend to line it up as best I can and when close to the ground, I don't touch the rudder anymore and just let it take the line it's on.

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    Remember that the F-14 with wings out is a floater and very trainer like. It can really slow down though mine had a nasty tendency to drop a wing at touch down (notice I didn't say tip stall).

    Leave a comment:


  • kallend
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    My opinion is to build it by the book with special attention to the wing sweep linkages to get no binding in or out. Other than that make adjustments to the battery area and shelf to get a good balance. After you fly it consider programing options and then think about some of the other mods mentioned. In my opinions some are not needed unless you fly from grass or very rough surfaces.
    Thanks. I fly from a hard runway but unfortunately it is quite short and, except for deltas that can be slowed right down at high alpha, most EDFs overrun into the grass - even those flown by far better pilots than me. So I'll probably take a hard look at the landing gear. (I saw that someone in the thread mentioned using my SU35 nosegear brace on his F-14).

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    My opinion is to build it by the book with special attention to the wing sweep linkages to get no binding in or out. Other than that make adjustments to the battery area and shelf to get a good balance. After you fly it consider programing options and then think about some of the other mods mentioned. In my opinions some are not needed unless you fly from grass or very rough surfaces.

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by kallend View Post
    Well, I ordered the ARF+ and will put a pair of FMS PRO units in it, and a 10 channel RX with gyro. I read through the thread and see a bunch of suggested mods. In the experience of those with the f-14, what priority should the mods take (it looks like landing gear should be high on the list)?
    KE, Dittos on the LG mod. If you've read through the thread, you have probably watched the 'ewetoob' videos and seen that mod. The Tomcat ARF+ is my next build. I am genuinely excited to start it. Please post pictures of your progress, I will be watching with great interest. Best to you and yours, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • kallend
    replied
    Well, I ordered the ARF+ and will put a pair of FMS PRO units in it, and a 10 channel RX with gyro.

    I read through the thread and see a bunch of suggested mods. In the experience of those with the f-14, what priority should the mods take (it looks like landing gear should be high on the list)?

    Leave a comment:


  • T- Elbert
    replied
    Thank you. It was a really fun project. On to the next paint job….

    Leave a comment:


  • krakenreleaser
    replied
    Awesome work there T!

    Leave a comment:


  • T- Elbert
    replied
    After a failed elevator servo my f-14 sustained severe damage, I usually do military paint schemes but I had fun with this… Ace combat pumpkin face.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gvasiloff
    replied
    I've had the FMS 2100Kv fans in for over a year now and I recently bought all the parts needed to upgrade to 2 x Jetfan 80s w/ 2250Kv HET motors and 120a Hobbywing ESCs. A fellow club member of mine did the same and it has greater than 1:1 thrust to weight ratio. Should be a ridiculous setup. It was pricey though, about $700 for everything. I won't be able to do the swap until February, but I'll be sure to post pictures and a video when it's all installed in my Freewing VX-9 Black Bunny! I want to be able to do the Dale Snodgrass touch & go to the double dirty-Immelmann maneuver, which requires ridiculous static thrust.

    Leave a comment:


  • krakenreleaser
    replied
    Thanks RLC! You can't go wrong with the Predators I assure you. I've heard good things about the XFLs as well. Here are a few still shots
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • rlcamden
    replied
    Originally posted by krakenreleaser View Post
    FInally got a chance to maiden the "Ghost" Aggressor F-14 Tomcat twin 80mm edf jet. Upgraded the fans to the FMS 80mm Predator 2100kv EDFs and- WOW what a difference from the stock setup. The FMS fans are a drop-in replacement. Also upgraded the stock 80 amp ESCs to Freewing 100 amp ESCs from the Freewing Mig-29 Fulcrum. The maiden video below shows a few top speed passes as well as some vertical maneuvers. A special thank you to Jerry Festa / Tailskid for the video and still camera work.


    Great work. I currently have 12b 1920kvs in mine, but thinking on upgrading to the Predators or the 12b 2200kv XFly's. Working on trailing link mains, then I will tackle the motors.

    Leave a comment:


  • rlcamden
    replied
    Originally posted by radfordc View Post

    Here you go...
    Perfect! Thank you.

    Leave a comment:

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