Originally posted by Evan D
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Official Freewing Twin 80mm F-14D Tomcat Thread
Collapse
X
-
-
Originally posted by kallend View Post
Thanks. I fly from a hard runway but unfortunately it is quite short and, except for deltas that can be slowed right down at high alpha, most EDFs overrun into the grass - even those flown by far better pilots than me. So I'll probably take a hard look at the landing gear. (I saw that someone in the thread mentioned using my SU35 nosegear brace on his F-14).
https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...roduct_id=7360
And all metal nose retract.
Comment
-
Originally posted by xviper View PostWhat ever brace you use, the end that slides needs to be blocked at the further travel or it'll just ram itself past that point and derail. Any block you make has to be very sturdy and well secured. Even on the SU-35, that brace isn't much of a brace. And when you make a sturdy "backstop" for the brace and you nail the ground hard enough, the nose retract body simply cracks because there's no "give" in the strut due to the solid brace (if the brace itself doesn't break). Which is worse ................ a bent strut pin or a cracked retract body? I've been getting better with my landings but it just takes one hard thump onto grass and the nose gear will be damaged again. I'm thinking of getting something like these:
https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...roduct_id=7360
And all metal nose retract.
https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...=alloy+retract
Comment
-
Originally posted by xviper View PostMine, too. With mine, I think it drops a wing as a result of rudder input when trying to get it more lined up with the runway centerline. Rudder input seems to induce roll.
- Likes 1
Comment
-
I really don't think I can say every time it happened that I was working the rudder but I fly by instinct and may have. Loosing lift at the tip would be my assumption caused by getting too high alpha. The tip looses lift on this before the rest of the wing since it's cord is much narrower. Assume the people that know more of the physics can add to the why in a much more educated way.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Evan D View PostI really don't think I can say every time it happened that I was working the rudder but I fly by instinct and may have. Loosing lift at the tip would be my assumption caused by getting too high alpha. The tip looses lift on this before the rest of the wing since it's cord is much narrower. Assume the people that know more of the physics can add to the why in a much more educated way.
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Slowly putting the F-14 together and ran into a problem when installing the wings. The starboard side sweep servo output shaft has quite a lot of "slop" resulting in the wingtip being able to move back and forth by some 1/2 inch, and the travel range is a bit smaller than the port wing (which is rock solid) so the wings would either be asymmetrical when forward or when swept.
I notified MRC customer service and hope for a replacement servo under the 30 day warranty.
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Originally posted by kallend View PostSlowly putting the F-14 together and ran into a problem when installing the wings. The starboard side sweep servo output shaft has quite a lot of "slop" resulting in the wingtip being able to move back and forth by some 1/2 inch, and the travel range is a bit smaller than the port wing (which is rock solid) so the wings would either be asymmetrical when forward or when swept.
I notified MRC customer service and hope for a replacement servo under the 30 day warranty.
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Originally posted by xviper View PostDid you try changing the length of that side's wing sweep rod so that it makes the wing butt up against the stop? I had that and playing with the rod length resolved the "schlopp" and both wings are fairly even swept out and in. What I had a problem with was that when measuring the wing tip elevation, one side was slightly lower than the other (warpage, maybe?). However, the plane seems to fly fine once trimmed.
I did change the rods but the left wing has more travel than the right regardless. I hope MRC will send a replacement sweep servo but in the interim I have 3D printed a collar to go around the output shaft to prevent it from wobbling so much.
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Just wrapped up our latest project on the Freewing twin 80mm edf F-14 Tomcat. This one was painted after the VF-1 "Wolfpack" F-14 A Tomcat featuring this unique Ferris paint scheme. We haven't seen any model, remote control or static display, in this awesome livery. BuNo 161290, NE 104, circa March 1983. Big thanks to Keith Svensden for snapping the original photos so we could recreate this beauty. There are only a handful of pics of plane out there, so we are super excited to bring this one back to life. 3d printed nozzles, wheel hubs, and pilots were added to customize the look and keep it true with the F-14 A model. Big shout out to T-cat (wheel hubs), the RC Geek (missle plyons) and chrisk83 (nozzles) for the 3d stl files. We also upgraded the power system with the mig 29 fans and escs, so it should rip. Painted two cockpits: one for flying and one with the canopy up for static display. Led twin afterburner kit by Gooniac.
Maiden this weekend.
Paint tutorial video below:
Comment
-
Well done! Before I clicked on the thumbs, I assumed they were all 1:1!My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Originally posted by krakenreleaser View PostJust wrapped up our latest project on the Freewing twin 80mm edf F-14 Tomcat. This one was painted after the VF-1 "Wolfpack" F-14 A Tomcat featuring this unique Ferris paint scheme....I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
- Likes 1
Comment
-
In case anyone is interested, I have posted STL files for a weapons pylon on Thingiverse.
A missile pylon that mounts under the cuff (there are 3 mounting bosses there). For ease in printing it is in two parts with pegs to align the parts which need to be glued. It is designed to hold a Sidewinder on the horizontal arm, and a Sparrow or AMRAAM on the vertical arm. These can be glued in place or attached using the optional socket (part "C"). These fit standard Freewing ordnance mounting lugs. You will need to print a left and right side version. A Sidewinder (AIM-9) to the correct scale is athttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5136361 A Sparrow (AIM-7) is at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5166171
To make it easier to print, it is in two pieces which are pegged and glued together.
Comment
-
Originally posted by kallend View PostIn case anyone is interested, I have posted STL files for a weapons pylon on Thingiverse.To make it easier to print, it is in two pieces which are pegged and glued together.I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
Comment
Comment