Official Freewing Twin 70mm AL37 Airliner Thread

[f4u ausie]

Did u feel the earthqauke ,, it was me shakin in my boots,,,, maden 2 flights done and dusted finally.. flys like a baby.. ,, right on cg and no elev flap mix,, looks like its flying slow, but when u land ,, its travelling faster than u think,,, very docile,, looks absolutely incredible in the sky level wings at take off,, made sure had good speed,, thanx to glider guy for ur help(right on the money)

[GliderGuy]

A beauty! Lots of fun flying ahead of you.

Happy to have been of some help.

For a true vision, take off 15 min before sunrise or 15 min after sunset and leave the gear down and come overhead fairly high. She looks sooooo real all lit up. Takes some practice to fly in the dim light, however.

-GG

[f4u ausie]

Have noticed since maiden two of em ,, loose nacelles ,, think they useing less glue to save money(as we all do) so here is my solution inc extra glue under retract mounts stops the wobbly wobbly... have already pre maiden glued in top support for the fuse joint way more solid

[Scots_rubz]

Thanks for the welcome f4u ausie & Aros.

first question i have is what is the recommended diameter and length of the extra carbon fiber rods for joining the two halfs of the fuselage together?

thanks.

[f4u ausie]

The spa in mine is out of an old plane and square ,about 200 mm long ,,, i had well glued my fuse tgether at that point so used a soldeing iron externally to melt a groove to fit the spa,, then epoxy in place.... b4 i did that u could push down on front and back of it,, and c seperation... not now it works... its about 3 mm.. im sure glider guy will chime in hes the guru on this one... for what its worth,, when u get it in the air,, its an impressive sight ,, but very quick,, 3 minuts for me, coming down at 380 a cell,, so a bit more if i want.. just wana b safe

[GliderGuy]

Hi SR,
I used what I had handy. 2 inches in length, and small enough diameter so you can drill holes in the fuselage walls and leave foam all around the rod.

2 rods embedded length wise on either side of top dead center and going across the fuselage joint is all it takes. Go about 1 inch “into” each fuselage “half”.

If you want to avoid top wing skin cracks that will happen after a lot of flying, remove the motor nacelles from the wing so you can get to the wiring channels in the wing. Flip the wing over so the top wing skin is on the work surface. Cut as long a piece of about 1/4 inch square carbon rod that you can fit into the length of the wiring channel and epoxy the rod against the inside of the top wing skin. Use 5 min epoxy because you will need to press the rod against the top wing skin while it cures.

If you elect not doing this, after a lot of flights, she will look like this…..

-GG

[Scots_rubz]

Hi SR,
I used what I had handy. 2 inches in length, and small enough diameter so you can drill holes in the fuselage walls and leave foam all around the rod.

2 rods embedded length wise on either side of top dead center and going across the fuselage joint is all it takes. Go about 1 inch “into” each fuselage “half”.

If you want to avoid top wing skin cracks that will happen after a lot of flying, remove the motor nacelles from the wing so you can get to the wiring channels in the wing. Flip the wing over so the top wing skin is on the work surface. Cut as long a piece of about 1/4 inch square carbon rod that you can fit into the length of the wiring channel and epoxy the rod against the inside of the top wing skin. Use 5 min epoxy because you will need to press the rod against the top wing skin while it cures.

If you elect not doing this, after a lot of flights, she will look like this…..

-GG

Hi GG, thanks for your reply and great knowledge throughout this whole topic.

if I have understood you correctly you recommend 2 x extra rods at the top, one each side of dead centre, and 2 x extras at the bottom , one each side of dead centre? I have attached what I think is correct.

also , yes I read your post earlier in the topic and plan to insert a carbon square rod in the wing wiring channel.

many thanks,

[Scots_rubz]

Hi SR,
I used what I had handy. 2 inches in length, and small enough diameter so you can drill holes in the fuselage walls and leave foam all around the rod.

2 rods embedded length wise on either side of top dead center and going across the fuselage joint is all it takes. Go about 1 inch “into” each fuselage “half”.

If you want to avoid top wing skin cracks that will happen after a lot of flying, remove the motor nacelles from the wing so you can get to the wiring channels in the wing. Flip the wing over so the top wing skin is on the work surface. Cut as long a piece of about 1/4 inch square carbon rod that you can fit into the length of the wiring channel and epoxy the rod against the inside of the top wing skin. Use 5 min epoxy because you will need to press the rod against the top wing skin while it cures.

If you elect not doing this, after a lot of flights, she will look like this…..

-GG

Hi GG, thanks for your reply and great knowledge throughout this whole topic.

if I have understood you correctly you recommend 2 x extra rods at the top, one each side of dead centre, and 2 x extras at the bottom , one each side of dead centre? I have attached what I think is correct.


also , yes I read your post earlier in the topic and plan to insert a carbon square rod in the wing wiring channel.

many thanks,

[GliderGuy]

Hi GG, thanks for your reply and great knowledge throughout this whole topic.

if I have understood you correctly you recommend 2 x extra rods at the top, one each side of dead centre, and 2 x extras at the bottom , one each side of dead centre? I have attached what I think is correct.


also , yes I read your post earlier in the topic and plan to insert a carbon square rod in the wing wiring channel.

many thanks,

The bottoms are not needed. They won’t hurt, but the stress is at the top caused by hard landings.

Looks good either way.

-GG

[ggillila]

Hey,

I have maidened it and am just curious what flap settings and elevator mix you guys' use because I landed it very hot and know this plane can tip stall.

Thanks

[GliderGuy]

Hi again ggillila,
With CG on the mark, no flap/elevator mix is required. Neutral stick trim is about 5 mm up elevator.

I land with full flaps and a touch of power to help with the flare. Yep…300 ft+ is typical for no wind landing roll on pavement.

I don’t sense any undue tip stall issues, but I set 30% expo on the ailerons to lessen the twitchy feel.

The most important addition to this bird is a GYRO! 60% gain on the gyro stops the tail wiggle.

As noted in the above posts…if you add in an additional carbon rod in each wing, top skin foam cracking can be eliminated. See post 2326

-GG

PS She is actually very mild mannered. For more advanced pilots AND for a REAL thrill, go to high rates up high and snap roll her. She goes around FAST!!! If you hold her in the snap roll, she will progress into a thrilling SPIN. The spin rotation recovery is rapid, but you need LOTS of altitude to effect the total recovery.

[f4u ausie]

Hey,

I have maidened it and am just curious what flap settings and elevator mix you guys' use because I landed it very hot and know this plane can tip stall.

Thanks

I too landed fast on first flight,,(no flaps) and follow g guy exactly ,, u wont have trouble,, he is on the money, no flap mix etc now landing full flaps,. Slows just nicely... i too am nervous about a stall, so im fast in the turns... it needs alota space to fly,, its biiiggg... it looks absolutely amazing in the sky.. book flap settings for me. Have fuuunnn

[Fredardi]

Hello, it's almost 3,5 years I have this bird and since then I never was able to use my flaps on it so I land always without flaps.I have a DX9 SPEKTRUM BLACK EDITION and I was never able to program those flaps . Motion has send me new complete set of the AL 37 Blue Box to change all the connections and the blue box it self but nothing change.I program with the correct type of wing but still not make them operating .What I'm I doing wrong ?

[Fredardi]

Hello, it's almost 3,5 years I have this bird and since then I never was able to use my flaps on it so I land always without flaps.I have a DX9 SPEKTRUM BLACK EDITION and I was never able to program those flaps . Motion has send me new complete set of the AL 37 Blue Box to change all the connections and the blue box it self but nothing change.I program with the correct type of wing but still not make them operating .What I'm I doing wrong ?

[MikeT]

Hello, it's almost 3,5 years I have this bird and since then I never was able to use my flaps on it so I land always without flaps.I have a DX9 SPEKTRUM BLACK EDITION and I was never able to program those flaps . Motion has send me new complete set of the AL 37 Blue Box to change all the connections and the blue box it self but nothing change.I program with the correct type of wing but still not make them operating .What I'm I doing wrong ?

Have you gone into the setting and changed to 1 aileron & 1 flap ? That will activate and give access to the flap menu,

Mike

[Fredardi]

Have you gone into the setting and changed to 1 aileron & 1 flap ? That will activate and give access to the flap menu,

Mike

Yes I try also ...It make me crazy I can set it...

[MikeT]

Yes I try also ...It make me crazy I can set it...

Check the polarity of all your connections. on the blue box and your receiver.

Mike

[arkreal1]

If anybody needs AL37 parts, I have most of the parts.

[steve@stevebeaver.com]

I am new to the RC world. What kind of flight time can I expect on the AL37 before I have to land it and change out the battery?

[f4u ausie]

I am new to the RC world. What kind of flight time can I expect on the AL37 before I have to land it and change out the battery?

Rule of thumb around 3 minuts,,, depending on battery size.. hopeing this is not a first plane for u