Originally posted by GliderGuy
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Official Freewing MiG-29 Fulcrum Twin 80mm Thread
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TV setup is in the cart. I'll like crashing a $700 EDF probably about as much as I liked crashing my $1,300 EDF (HSD Twin 90mm Me-262). It is the risk we take ...
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Thanks for the feedback. Single BEC it will be then.Originally posted by Evan D View PostTwo switching BECs should not be used in parallel. Many have used the upgraded pushrods successfully. If you want to get more into the stab setup the screws holding the elevator horns on are very short and it's a good idea to replace them with the same type but slightly longer, glue the horn down while you are at it. I bypassed the MCBe for most flight controls. I also used a 12ch receiver and did separate the rudders and steering (enabled rudder air brakes), separate hor stabs for tailerons, separate ailerons for crow and full span flaps, separate flaps for full span ailerons. Though I have all that programmed I really use the tailerons and crow with rudder air brakes..
There is a lot of info in these threads.
Really look at putting the TVs on it. Even if you don't do it for the performance increase it helps balance the plane and takes some of the work load off the stabs.
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Well……Originally posted by Flash Jorden View Post
Oh man, I wasn't planning on adding TV. I'll try my hand without it. Thanks for the heads up!
Just know that without TV, you will crash at some point due to the high alpha lock. After 2 flights or a few hundred or a few thousand.
I couldn’t install TV (not enough channels) and I flew and flew the MiG. A couple of times a gust threw her into a high alpha lock from which I recovered by chopping the throttle.
THEN ONE GUSTY DAY…..you know the rest!!!!! All bad situations came together in a perfect storm. My MiG is no more.
The TV is that little bit of extra safety margin that’s worth adding. Fly without TV at your own risk. How do you feel about crashing a $700+ EDF?
-GG
PS. Are you picking up on what I am strongly hinting?
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I don't use gyros typically and don't have one in my MiG. That said many will tell you it makes any plane fly "bigger" or better...
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Oh I've been reading that, as well as watching numerous SU-4ever/Airguardian videos, including the high alpha crash he had on landing. As well as reading his explanation about the physics of the issue, including it being exacerbated by the thrust line.Originally posted by radfordc View Post
I do have 2x FMS 2100 fan units I can install. I wonder if that mitigates the alpha lock in any way.
EDIT: 2x ZFMS 3665 2000
I guess I will look into the TV setup. Is a gyro necessary with TV? I've never used TV before. I have an A3 Super I could use if needed. Oh, and an Aura 8 too.
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Oh I've been reading and reading on both sites. With a combined 820 pages of posts, it's daunting ... but hey, how do you eat an elephant...? One bite at a time....Originally posted by Evan D View PostDo be very careful if you fly without TVs. The MiG WILL get into alpha lock and it's not easy to get out. Read the threads here and on RCG.
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Don't try to power out of a high alpha situation...just makes it worse. Cut the throttle to idle and if you have enough altitude the nose will fall through and you can then add power and get back to level flight.Originally posted by Evan D View PostDo be very careful if you fly without TVs. The MiG WILL get into alpha lock and it's not easy to get out. Read the threads here and on RCG.
If you don't have enough altitude you get this...
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Two switching BECs should not be used in parallel. Many have used the upgraded pushrods successfully. If you want to get more into the stab setup the screws holding the elevator horns on are very short and it's a good idea to replace them with the same type but slightly longer, glue the horn down while you are at it. I bypassed the MCBe for most flight controls. I also used a 12ch receiver and did separate the rudders and steering (enabled rudder air brakes), separate hor stabs for tailerons, separate ailerons for crow and full span flaps, separate flaps for full span ailerons. Though I have all that programmed I really use the tailerons and crow with rudder air brakes..
There is a lot of info in these threads.
Really look at putting the TVs on it. Even if you don't do it for the performance increase it helps balance the plane and takes some of the work load off the stabs.
Leave a comment:
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Oh wow, I wouldn't have thought those pushrods would still bend. They seemed plenty stiff when I tried flexing them by hand. In any case, Titanium pushrods and heavy duty pushrod ends/swivels are on the way. So for the BEC I have a couple of options. 1.) I have an identical BEC on hand as the stock one. I can add it to the other pair of battery leads to add redundancy to the receiver, like having a dual receiver battery setup, or 2.) I have a 10Amp and an 18Amp BEC on hand, use one of those instead.Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
I installed the Castle 20 amp BEC pro. Works great! Most left the stock BEC in and haven't heard of any problems though. I used the Pro Modeler servos for the elevators (even though I got the upgraded equipment) and Hangar Nine Titanium pushrods (the upgraded Freewing pushrods still bend-trust me on that, but better than what it comes with) and installed the TV nozzles as well, so wanted to use the 20 amp BEC just to be safe. If you can, locate all electronics under the rear battery tray (including the RX and I used a 10 channel Spektrum AS3X and a Hobby Eagle gyro for the TV nozzles). Then installed the BEC in the raised center, with the 2nd battery all the way in the nose, along with a satellite remote RX. Makes for a nice clean setup and was still able to balance it 15mm behind the book CG with either 2 SMC 5300's or 2 SMC 6200's.
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Do be very careful if you fly without TVs. The MiG WILL get into alpha lock and it's not easy to get out. Read the threads here and on RCG.
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Oh man, I wasn't planning on adding TV. I'll try my hand without it. Thanks for the heads up!Originally posted by GliderGuy View PostHi FlashJ,
I flew several thousand flights with the stock BEC. No issues, but I did not have the added electrical load of the TV. Don’t fly without TV….I did fly without TV and eventually crashed mine.
-GG
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Hi FlashJ,
I flew several thousand flights with the stock BEC. No issues, but I did not have the added electrical load of the TV. Don’t fly without TV….I did fly without TV and eventually crashed mine.
-GG
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I installed the Castle 20 amp BEC pro. Works great! Most left the stock BEC in and haven't heard of any problems though. I used the Pro Modeler servos for the elevators (even though I got the upgraded equipment) and Hangar Nine Titanium pushrods (the upgraded Freewing pushrods still bend-trust me on that, but better than what it comes with) and installed the TV nozzles as well, so wanted to use the 20 amp BEC just to be safe. If you can, locate all electronics under the rear battery tray (including the RX and I used a 10 channel Spektrum AS3X and a Hobby Eagle gyro for the TV nozzles). Then installed the BEC in the raised center, with the 2nd battery all the way in the nose, along with a satellite remote RX. Makes for a nice clean setup and was still able to balance it 15mm behind the book CG with either 2 SMC 5300's or 2 SMC 6200's.Originally posted by Flash Jorden View PostHey guys, I've finally gotten around to assembling my Mig-29. Mine was shipped shortly after the elevator servo upgrade, so I have them and the solid pushrods. I've read a good number of posts about mods/changes to make to the plane prior to maiden. The one thing I haven't a definitive answer on is if the stock BEC "needs" to be replaced. I agree the wiring is a bit thin for the length of the runs, so heavier gauge wiring is recommend.
So the question is, keep the stock BEC or replace it? If replace, what minimum amp rating?
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Hey guys, I've finally gotten around to assembling my Mig-29. Mine was shipped shortly after the elevator servo upgrade, so I have them and the solid pushrods. I've read a good number of posts about mods/changes to make to the plane prior to maiden. The one thing I haven't a definitive answer on is if the stock BEC "needs" to be replaced. I agree the wiring is a bit thin for the length of the runs, so heavier gauge wiring is recommend.
So the question is, keep the stock BEC or replace it? If replace, what minimum amp rating?
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