Of particular note, after some experimentation I discovered that the Freewing E52 gyro appears to be a slightly modified re-branded version of the Hobby Eagle A3 Super 3 (A3S3) Gyro. Using the cable that came with the E52 programming card, I was able to successfully connect the Freewing E52 gyro to my Windows PC and setup the device using the Hobby Eagle configuration software. I wrote about this experience in the following RCG post:
Note that the manual for the Hobby Eagle A3S3 is more detailed than the manual for the Freewing E52. Here is a link to the Hobby Eagle A3S3 Gyro User's manual (PDF):
You reprogrammed the gyro!? That’s some expert level modding! I will be checking out all of this information posted. You can never have enough of that when shopping for a new plane ✈️ Thanks so much for this
To Kallend:
Its not the amount of years in the life, it’s the amount of life in the years. Right? 😅
My FreeWing 70mm B2 Bomber is acting up. The Surfaces are jittery when I try to move them and the Gyro has a light on. What's the best way to reset the gyro to factory settings?
Many times the servos might have jitters but work fine. Gyro has a light? It's supposed to and has different colors for different modes. No way to do a factory reset. you can get the programmer and change setting but theres no master reset to the stock B2 settings.
My FreeWing 70mm B2 Bomber is acting up. The Surfaces are jittery when I try to move them and the Gyro has a light on. What's the best way to reset the gyro to factory settings?
Did you change the settings after you got the plane? I'd have to hook up the programmer and check to see what the original settings were. My B2 is packed away but I hope to fly it before winter gets here. All I remember about the settings is that the rudder gain is almost maxed out. I have it on the rotary knob and have it turned full for take offs and landings. Much less than max on the rudder and the plane is hard to keep straight. I reduce it a bit in the air once the speed picks up.
Jittery surfaces could mean you've got the ends of the control rods in an inappropriate hole. Try to find the YouTube video where the complete set up is dealt with. It may be on the MotionRC B2 webpage. I recall some recommendations were not in line with the manual. Also check the gyro manual so you know what the light means and what the different switch positions do.
I used to hate flying this plane but as I got more accustomed to what I need to do to make it take off, land and fly nicely, I'm much more comfortable with it and the enjoyment has returned.
I finally got to maiden my B2, but i found it hard to keep in a straight line. I did remove the steering servo from the gyro, but that was not so smart.. plugged it back in and it was waaayy better.
They only problem is to get it to rotate from our paved runway, it took forever to take off, and needed a small bump to get airborne... Any thoughts? New HRB 5000 battery, pushed almost all the way to the front. Full setup as per Jeremy solt's video, and it flew absolutely great once airborne...Landing was smooth without any bounce... Maybe my CG is too forward to rotate? I find it hard to clearly balance it on your fingertips, it just falls back and forth...
To get airborne with a shorter run, I slaved my “elevator” to the “flap” channel as a master and set it up so when the “flower flap” is commanded, a bit of additional up “elevator” is added.
Of course, there are no “flaps”, but there’s no reason why you can’t use that channel as a master. Just don’t forget to raise the “flaps” after take-off.
I've found that HRB's just don't have the grunt it takes to give an EDF the needed push that other "name" brands do. Unless you're using the newer 100C HRBs, those "standard" 50C ones just don't cut it in 6S applications. My old Admiral 6000mah work much better in this plane. Even better, the CNHL 5000s.
Due to the very short "wheelbase" on the B2, ground handling can be "darty". I don't have the steering on the stock gyro but even separated by using an Assan steering gyro, the stock gyro's gains for rudder is best maxed out. I have master gain on the knob and turn it down a bit for flying to eliminate the gain oscillation.
GG ................... Please explain what "flower flap" is? How is it different than the stock set up where entire control surface acts in unison for ELE (as a single elevon)?
Like this .........................
(I only made this video to show my "drag brakes" but it's also useful to show the stock elevon set up.)
Again, it’s a fake out. There are no flaps per se.
I noticed when lowering the gear, the CG change caused a slight pitch down. So I slaved the elevator channel to the flaps channel on my TX. When I put the gear down, I switch the “flaps” down and the slaved elevator moves up a small amount in response.
I run the Admiral 6,000 also and with the added touch of up elevator, she easily gets off with a normal run distance.
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