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Official Freewing 80mm EDF F-86 Sabre Thread
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Some dulling might not be a bad thing. I would spray a test piece and run a fine scotch bright pad over it and see what find of effect you get .
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In my experience you will need to spray a clear coat over the chrome because the chrome spray is not very durable. It rubs off on your hands.
That will further dull it a little.
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I can tell it's gonna be sweet. Can't wait to see the chrome on it !
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I have the fuselage all smoothed out. I am putting flush rivets into the fuse. I am using a piece of brass tubing inserted into a soldering iron. Just a quick light press onto the surface does the trick. I then press down on the rivet with my finger to set the surface back down. After I am finished they will get a light sanding with 400 grit.
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I like the flat latex paint in sample cans at Home depot. When applied with a foam brush it comes out perfectly smooth (sometimes I thin just a little, use 2 coats) The flat finish really hides imperfections and is ez to repair and blend paint. For dings I use the DAP fast and final lightweight sparkling, also disappears under paint :o)Originally posted by Waconut View PostSilver is a very low pigment paint which makes it very difficult to work with.
My next build will be an F-4 with a gray paint scheme in Marine squadron colors. I will be using latex.
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Silver is a very low pigment paint which makes it very difficult to work with.
My next build will be an F-4 with a gray paint scheme in Marine squadron colors. I will be using latex.
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WRT decals just lightly prime, scuff and paint over them, they disappear and are smoother than the foam.Wet sanding gets me back to laquire days ,spray 10 coats, wet sand, then buff, shiny like a marble. wetsand on the foam works like magic since you have the time
. Silver is tough though
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I just completed a FW A-10 and used latex and it turned out great. I am going for a polished aluminum finish on the F-86 and wanted to use enamel.
Anyhow 2 things I have learned. Pick a model where I can use latex and pick a model that does not come with the decals already applied.
I will get this plane to the finish line and it will look good. Just going to take a lot of extra work. One thing I do have is time.
later!!
Anthony
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Bummer,Originally posted by Waconut View PostWas an eventful day, I thought I ruined the F-86.
I had started off spraying rust-oleum filler primer. It sprays on in a thin layer. I am used to using Dupli-color High fill primer on my built up scale models. I picked some up today and sprayed the wing tanks, wing bottoms tail and fuse. I went back to the drop tanks and they had started gatoring in a bad way.
The dupli-color has softened the Polycrylic and caused the foam surface to gator. Luckily the drop tanks were the worst. The surfaces felt soft. After 4 hours the foam has hardened back and most of the gatoring is sanding out. I am going to let it cure out until tomorrow and sand the entire plane then apply a light coat of the Rust-oleum filler primer.
Hopefully all is good to continue.
Later!!
Anthony
I have had very good luck wet sanding the foam and laying up latex or primer coats. Wet-sand with 400 glued on a firm foam block. The water keeps the foam from building up heat which adds to the gator effect. the 2nd pic shows the lower side completed
good luck.
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The Dupli-Color brand attacked the foam not the Rustoleum. I switched to the Duplicolor because it is high build and goes on thicker. I am going back to the rustoleum after the plane cures overnight.
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Anthony,
If you have already experienced the foam being attacked by using that filler, I would not recommend continuing to use it.
Find another brand of paint.
Just my 2 cents.
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Was an eventful day, I thought I ruined the F-86.
I had started off spraying rust-oleum filler primer. It sprays on in a thin layer. I am used to using Dupli-color High fill primer on my built up scale models. I picked some up today and sprayed the wing tanks, wing bottoms tail and fuse. I went back to the drop tanks and they had started gatoring in a bad way.
The dupli-color has softened the Polycrylic and caused the foam surface to gator. Luckily the drop tanks were the worst. The surfaces felt soft. After 4 hours the foam has hardened back and most of the gatoring is sanding out. I am going to let it cure out until tomorrow and sand the entire plane then apply a light coat of the Rust-oleum filler primer.
Hopefully all is good to continue.
Later!!
Anthony
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To avoid corona virus crazyness I ordered my primer, paint and pin striping from Amazon. Well go figure I ordered the wrong primer, I ordered scratch filler Sandable primer instead of the high fill primer.
I have to get out for doctors appointment later this morning so I will stop and pick some up.
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Waconut The wheel height and thickness are limited by the F-86's wing. You may be able to tweak something a bit taller or thicker than the stock wheels' dimensions, but it's more about reducing wheel hardness than increasing physical dimension. At least, in the context of this F-86. Two things to look out for when shopping for aftermarket wheels to try: 1) Match the axle diameter, 2) If you change the mains' height, you'll need to change the nose's height as well, either via wheel or longer strut, to preserve the original model's ground stance.
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I received the F-86 today, I have all the parts sanded and 2 coats of Polycrylic applied. Tomorrow I will scuff all the parts and start spraying high fill primer. There is a lot of gatoring on this plane. Nothing a couple coats of high fill primer and sanding won’t cure.
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Reading through this thread I see some guys have replaced the wheels on this plane. What brand of wheels are you using and what size?
Thanks!!
Anthony
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though I understand the why! Lookin' good, Sir. Best, LB
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