Originally posted by quitcherbitchen
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Official FlightLine RC 2000mm B-24D/J Liberator Thread
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I've only used 3S after experiencing it accelerate going straight vertical with the 4S - that's not the way I want to fly this one. 3S is overpowered as well but it flies very well on 3S and the only thing you need to remember is that it may be tail heavy - so use a larger 3S battery and shove it forward. You'll enjoy really long flights.Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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I bought a used B-24 last year in silver livery, I've repainted to represent a US Navy PB4Y-1. Decals are custom from Callie, I found these markings on a scale model site, they are fictional "Dem' Bones". I don't believe the USN had any 24s with Jolly Rogers on the tail. Painted black first and then airbrushed with Vallejo Air Insignia White 71. 279 on bottom and then Dark Gull Gray 71.277 on top. I haven't flown it yet. I'll be running 2x 3S 4000 packs with MAS 8x6 props.
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R9, simply great work, Sir. Really likin' your "Dem Bones" fictional livery and repaint. Bravo Zulu. Best, LBOriginally posted by Rocky9 View PostI bought a used B-24 last year in silver livery, I've repainted to represent a US Navy PB4Y-1. Decals are custom from Callie, I found these markings on a scale model site, they are fictional "Dem' Bones". I don't believe the USN had any 24s with Jolly Rogers on the tail. Painted black first and then airbrushed with Vallejo Air Insignia White 71. 279 on bottom and then Dark Gull Gray 71.277 on top. I haven't flown it yet. I'll be running 2x 3S 4000 packs with MAS 8x6 props.I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
I don't do this because it is easy; I do this because I thought it would be easy.~LB~
AMA#116446
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I sold my B-24 months ago. I did some mods on my Liberator and did B-24 Gr.Mk.V. Did a dumbo nose radar and later I added wing ligh. All details were painted, just like in real.
My B-24 was "PP Z" and later I was asked to do another Liberator for local museum, that one was "PP K" "Kosťa".​13 Photos
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Hello Folks,
Could someone direct me where I can download all the 3D Printable files for this B-24? I have scrolled through all these pages and the links i did find no longer working (google accts). Can someone please direct me to them. I wished Motion would provide a link to these files. I understand they have them available for purchase, but I have a 3d printer and it was mentioned they would be available for download yet there is no information or link to these files. A little frustrated about it.
Thank you in advance.
Michael
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Elbee I sent ya a private messsge but the 3D files are mentioned by Alpha on page 11. These files were provided to members here who uploaded files to a google account and that’s no longer available. The link is bad. Then uploaded a second fine by someone else and that link is now bad. So there are 3d files I need to find out how to get them.
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I had issues with mine right out the box. After completing trouble shooting from Motion took it out to field. Did my practice runs and then when I was ready to take off one of my outboard ESC's failed. Fortunately before it lifted off. Motion said that since I had taken it out it was used. Though that is what I was told to do. They did replace the part and waiting on weather to try again. I have read of several ESC's failing on this plane.Originally posted by ob1hulk View PostMy wife purchased the FL B24 for me last Christmas, I put it
together shortly after but never got around to maiden flight until this past weekend July 9th. Ground test everything functioned as it was supposed to, range test everything proved fine. Went up for maiden flight it pulled hard right on takeoff, i blamed the crosswind 5-8mph.
Got the plane to 3 mistakes high to trim out it pulled hard right once more, so i throttled back to 40-50% not thinking anything of it, got the plane happy with its trim made a few circuits and eventually the plane took a hard right into a uncontrollable torque spin or what looked like a flat spin. In the spin i throttled down, reverse rudder
to slow it down with one throttle blip in the middle to see if i could pull out. Ultimately it didn't pull out and damaged the nose, nose gear, right wing retracts, right wing mounting tabs, carbon spars and small parts, wings rudder and elevator seem to be in good shape. At the crash site, i pulled the batteries assessed the damage only to find out the right-wing outboard esc had failed causing the spin and most likely the hard right pulls prior. I have attached all the pictures of all of the aircraft so you can assess the damage for yourself. I uploaded the flight video to Youtube to be able to share. I dont upload much on YT so forgive my video skills.
Motions team emailed me back on everything and said 30 day warranty nothing can be done.
My only arguement to that was whats the difference in the plane sitting on my shelf for 7months vs it sitting on a hobby store shelf for 7 months?
Oh well crap happens, guess ill be rebuilding, it just sucks knowing it was a manufacturer part failure and nothing can be done.
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Hi,Originally posted by LilMac View PostLooking to add Bombay doors to my B-24. Anyone of a link or instructions?
I made some bomb bay doors and added working bomb releases for 4 bombs, here's a video short:
It's not a scale mod (the full size had "roller blind doors") but it's functional - you don't see the doors in detail in the air but you do see the bombs dropping! The control circuit allows single, double or all four bombs "pickled" at once and lights up "formation lights" on the tail (white for doors open and red for bombs dropping). Let me know if you want more details on building a non-scale mod for bomb doors. The bombs are modified "toy cap bombs", from EBay, and they do set off the caps when they hit a hard surface. They are not very loud though so I don't bother with the caps now. Somebody suggested I load them up with nitrogen triiodide for more realism but that stuff is pretty unstable and I don't want to risk it going off inside the bomb bay (go to 2:40 on this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWMlUDT2sK8 )
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Originally posted by Mikdys View Post
Hi,
I made some bomb bay doors and added working bomb releases for 4 bombs, here's a video short:
It's not a scale mod (the full size had "roller blind doors") but it's functional - you don't see the doors in detail in the air but you do see the bombs dropping! The control circuit allows single, double or all four bombs "pickled" at once and lights up "formation lights" on the tail (white for doors open and red for bombs dropping). Let me know if you want more details on building a non-scale mod for bomb doors. The bombs are modified "toy cap bombs", from EBay, and they do set off the caps when they hit a hard surface. They are not very loud though so I don't bother with the caps now. Somebody suggested I load them up with nitrogen triiodide for more realism but that stuff is pretty unstable and I don't want to risk it going off inside the bomb bay (go to 2:40 on this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWMlUDT2sK8 )Here's some more detail:Originally posted by Mikdys View Post
Hi,
I made some bomb bay doors and added working bomb releases for 4 bombs, here's a video short:
It's not a scale mod (the full size had "roller blind doors") but it's functional - you don't see the doors in detail in the air but you do see the bombs dropping! The control circuit allows single, double or all four bombs "pickled" at once and lights up "formation lights" on the tail (white for doors open and red for bombs dropping). Let me know if you want more details on building a non-scale mod for bomb doors. The bombs are modified "toy cap bombs", from EBay, and they do set off the caps when they hit a hard surface. They are not very loud though so I don't bother with the caps now. Somebody suggested I load them up with nitrogen triiodide for more realism but that stuff is pretty unstable and I don't want to risk it going off inside the bomb bay (go to 2:40 on this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWMlUDT2sK8 )
Materials:
Control circuit from Dave's RC:
Our Bomb Drop is designed to be used in conjunction with the Servoless Payload Release (or SPR hereafter) made by E-flite. Although some of the features of this device are designed specifically to be historically correct for the B-17 Flying Fortress (like the LEDs), it can be used in any plane that has detachable bombs, or any other type of releasable payload. It allows you to connect up to four SPRs together and control them independently from a single receiver channel. There are four different release modes that allow the bombs to be released in four different patterns, as indicated in the Product Details section at right. In addition, the Bomb Drop includes a function to open the bomb-bay doors independently of the release of the bombs, and controls two LEDs, one red and one white, to indicate the bomb-bay door positions and the pickling of bombs. The Bomb Drop plugs into a single open channel on the receiver, and the SPRs all connect to the Bomb Drop’s main circuit board. Note: This device is to be used in conjunction with the Servoless Payload Release (sold by eFlight) or a similar product. It can also be used to control standard servos. It does not include the SPRs or any other servos or devices to release the payloads. DOWNLOAD: Bomb Drop Manual
E-Flite payload release mechanisms (x4):
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product...e/EFLA405.html
Toy cap bombs from EBay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394437924...R0AAOSwDNpj1n4 T&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAkNlwmsxLZPWe8AgxbFWvouKkn sp PsxG6Yok7xboARxDXmAl2E6R3aUttoZF7WDDIwX7rvDzG5FY8A Mmk%2Bp%2B3VqqF3Y%2FYPB1J5JqPkGhpMCRtAd81UV7cceXNP PBPTZ%2FDv5Ki1Mid70IlcsVkkK56YLxH0Jgs30XqShZ%2BJYX C%2FJ1CUZr2JLYIZjmYwXbm7GiDZw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9 jN_a_QYQ
Plus odd balsa, glues and paint.
Mod:
First off I tested the fit on an old fuselage. This enabled me to find the optimum size without compromising any lateral support structures. Interestingly, both the old fuselage and the one on the model didn't have any glue "in the middle" from the factory. Adding this (Uhu Por) put back some of the strength taken out. The "cassette" I made also adds strength with its longitudinal structure and end bulkheads all glued in. You can see from the photo' exactly where the cuts into the fuselage need to be made. The finished model has plenty of strength and even a couple of "bouncy landings" didn't bother it. ​
I then made the doors out of balsa using hard sheet for the frames and 1/16" soft sheet for the covering (wet the outside before fixing on with CA and it follows the form really easily). I made the doors in one piece then cut down the centre to seperate them.
These fitted really nicely.
I then built the "cassette" from balsa and tested the fit. Captive nuts are incorporated for the bomb release mechanisms and you can see the outlines (in red marker) where these need to go.
You can see here how everything fits together.
Finished build doors shut (with bombs inside).
Finished build doors open (with bombs fitted ready for dropping - next to the bottom bomb you can see the mechanism's "reset tag" which needs to be held back with a small screwdriver, or similar, when the bombs are loaded).
These are the bombs used - cap bombs with one fin shaped to fit the E-Flite release mechanism and a retaining bracket made from thin tin and epoxy glued onto the bomb and a splash of paint to make them look a little more authentic.
This is the circuit board that controls it all. It works off a single channel and a three way switch. The first position opens the doors (and puts on the white formation light) moving to the second position (and immediately back to the first) "pickles" the bombs and flashes the red formation light on and off. There are dip switches on the circuit board and these can be set (pre-flight) to get the bombs to drop singly, in pairs or all together. In my video I have this set for pairs (one bomb hangs up on the doors during the first drop but this doesn't happen with the model moving).
Lastly, fitted the formation lights (I don't have a photo of the finished fit but this one gives and idea of how to go about it). I used light filler to cover the holes and channel I made and glued the lights into a small balsa panel fitted under the rear turret. It looks really good once painted but, the best bit, is doing a bomb run and then turning and pulling away in a gentle climb while shutting the doors. You see the rear of the 'plane with the bright white light on and doors open, then the light goes off and the doors slowly shut.
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I did consider those but they are too big to fit internally. I tested some small ones I made myself but they didn't break open on impact so I went for the cap bombs in the end.
The way forward, to make a total display, is probably to stage some ground based fireworks remotely set off at the point the "bombs" hit - probably a bit OTT
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