Official FlightLine RC 2000mm B-24D/J Liberator Thread

[TedP]

Very nice! Is it possible to have the engine sounds stop when the electric motors stop?

[Hugh Wiedman]

Very nice! Is it possible to have the engine sounds stop when the electric motors stop?

Yes, unfortunately I did that video at the beginning and had not yet "programmed" the start and stop of the props with the sound. But to do that, you have to be somewhat "creative". It took me a while to figure it out and I had many conversations with Andrew (owner of Mr RC Sound) and one of his associates who lived in London. I came up with a method that they had not thought of, but seemed to work, at least for me. The main problem I found was that the sound started when you advanced the throttle (which was OK) and shut off when you dropped it to 0 (also OK) but if you did that while taxiing to the runway or even at times while you were flying-especially landing, the sound shut off and then recycled back on, defeating the overall purpose. So this is what I came up with so the sound comes on just as the prop spins, and only shuts off when you are done flying and taxiing and the props stop rotating and never at any other time.

In essence I'm using my throttle cut switch to enable the sound to come on and shut off when I want it to. To do this, you essentially have to "trick" the board in the following way (these following settings work on the B-24, but each plane and ESC are a bit different and require unique settings but the concept is the same and I have these boards in all my prop warbirds and a few other prop Bi-Planes):

1) Program the ESC as you do with all planes for throttle travel, ie, turn on TX and advance throttle to full position, then plug in RX (should remove props for this so a disaster can't occur), after getting single beeps, drop throttle to 0, then the ESC arms and you have the throttle calibrated.
2) Determine the point with throttle trim switch that the props just start to turn slowly, in the case of my B-24, that's at +52 in throttle trim.
3) Disconnect RX and reduce trim back to 0, then plug the RX back in so everything is calibrated correctly. Do not power up the Sound board yet.
4) Now drop the throttle trim to about -34. Now connect the sound system power.
5) Engage the throttle cut switch, and I happen to use Switch H for that and have the position at -110%. At this point, the servo position that you would see in the screen showing travel that the throttle position is virtually same when the throttle is on and -34 trim as it is with the throttle cut on.
6) Now with the throttle still cut, advance the throttle trim to that +52 position. Since the throttle cut switch is still on, the props don't move and the board thinks it starting point is still at the -110 when you plugged it in. The sound should also still be off.
7) Now you're ready to fire up the engines and begin taxiing. Release the throttle cut switch-turn the throttle on- and the props should just start spinning slowly and the sound system should begin it's start up sequence. The sound will stay on now, no matter what you do with the throttle stick. If you don't like the props spinning when you drop the throttle to 0, you can always reduce the trim down a few notches but that little amount of trim is not enough to shut the sound system off. Go and fly, bring it back to the pit, then turn the throttle cut switch and the sound and props stop at the same time.

As I said, each plane and ESC is a bit different and you may have to tweek the trim amounts and values of the throttle cut position to get it to work perfectly all the time. I found that the throttle cut position should be close, but not lower than the bottom trim position you plug your sound system in at (in this case -34). I also found that a trim range from low (point you plug the sound in) to high (point the props spin) is usually somewhere around 50 to 80 points, again depending on the ESC and plane.

One thing to absolutely remember, after flying and everything is shut off and disconnected, return the throttle trim to 0 for the next flight because you do not want to turn the TX on and power the RX with the throttle at that upper trim amount (+52 in my case) as it will throw the throttle calibration out of whack.

The following 3 videos show the sound system and props turning sequenced better in my Spitfire, Corsair (following posts) and P-51.

Any questions, please ask or even PM me and I'd be glad to help.

[Hugh Wiedman]

Corsair:

[Hugh Wiedman]

FMS 1700mm P-51 with Sound and Whistle;

[Scornette]

Does anyone know where I can get the olive green color for touch up

[Scornette]

Does anyone know where I can get the olive green paintDoes anyone know where I can get the olive green color for touch up

[Gringotuerto]

Does anyone know where I can get the olive green paintDoes anyone know where I can get the olive green color for touch up

Post #46 on this thread has a Home Depot matching to all the colors. You can take the numbers to a Home Depot and they can make you a copy of any of these. If you download the photo and zoom in the color numbers are readable. In fact, if I recall they can just type the 12 digit serial number. It is unique, and can pull up the color numbers. Anyway, the Home Depot paint guy should know what to do.

Having said that, it is also a bit of time and money. I often just pull out my acrylic paints, pick the closest two, and try to mix to match. Sometimes I hit, sometimes I miss. But usually it's good enough to call the job done.

EDIT: OK, it is only #46 if you filter by "photos only". Sorry for that. Anyway, attached is the photo so you don't have to hunt for it. It is the photo with 5 paints in it. And then when posting this photo, I noticed two other paint photos in my B-24 directory. I don't think I would have put them in that directory unless they came from a post where somebody else matched the B-24. So I think these represent several independent attempts.

EDIT2: I notice the numbers on the second two match precisely, so there were only two independent attempts at optical matching. I guess you could average the color numbers.

[Scornette]

I don’t see anything about paint on #46

[borntoolate]

Post #46 on this thread has a Home Depot matching to all the colors. You can take the numbers to a Home Depot and they can make you a copy of any of these. If you download the photo and zoom in the color numbers are readable. In fact, if I recall they can just type the 12 digit serial number. It is unique, and can pull up the color numbers. Anyway, the Home Depot paint guy should know what to do.

Having said that, it is also a bit of time and money. I often just pull out my acrylic paints, pick the closest two, and try to mix to match. Sometimes I hit, sometimes I miss. But usually it's good enough to call the job done.

EDIT: OK, it is only #46 if you filter by "photos only". Sorry for that. Anyway, attached is the photo so you don't have to hunt for it. It is the photo with 5 paints in it. And then when posting this photo, I noticed two other paint photos in my B-24 directory. I don't think I would have put them in that directory unless they came from a post where somebody else matched the B-24. So I think these represent several independent attempts.

EDIT2: I notice the numbers on the second two match precisely, so there were only two independent attempts at optical matching. I guess you could average the color numbers.

Let me try to clear this up. Those lower pics in Gringotuerto's post were mine. The ones that are 3 in a box. They are all very good matches - nearly perfect as I had them scan parts. The one with two colors is the OD green. The HD employee just put the wrong color on. I should have removed the grey color before posting the pics.


Bob

[Scornette]

Thank you

[Gringotuerto]

I don’t see anything about paint on #46

As I said in the edit - it is only #46 if you first enable the filer "Photos Only". Apparently it is the 46th post that contains a photo. I didn't know how to link to it more easily, so I just downloaded and re-uploaded the photo above.

[Gringotuerto]

Let me try to clear this up. Those lower pics in Gringotuerto's post were mine. The ones that are 3 in a box. They are all very good matches - nearly perfect as I had them scan parts. The one with two colors is the OD green. The HD employee just put the wrong color on. I should have removed the grey color before posting the pics.


Bob

Bob, thanks, apparently I got that from one of your old posts.

Anyway, the photos above are two independent optical scans, and of course optical scan doesn't come out the same every time. So for someone making a new batch, one reasonable thing would be to average the color numbers. They both contain pigments BL, CL, KXL, LL. One is 39, 26, 111, 158, the other is 37, 25.5, 97, 158.5. So the average is 38, 25.75, 104, 158.25. But I think HD doesn’t support 0.25 increments, so for any average ending in 0.25 you have to round one way or the other.

Or if this is too complicated, just pick one or the other and use it.

[borntoolate]

Bob, thanks, apparently I got that from one of your old posts.

Anyway, the photos above are two independent optical scans, and of course optical scan doesn't come out the same every time. So for someone making a new batch, one reasonable thing would be to average the color numbers. They both contain pigments BL, CL, KXL, LL. One is 39, 26, 111, 158, the other is 37, 25.5, 97, 158.5. So the average is 38, 25.75, 104, 158.25. But I think HD doesn’t support 0.25 increments, so for any average ending in 0.25 you have to round one way or the other.

Or if this is too complicated, just pick one or the other and use it.

Agreed!

[TedP]

As I posted on 10/10/20, I’m a newbie, learning with an Apprentice. I’m also gathering parts and info for my B-24, and hope to maiden it this summer.
As someone suggested, I read all the comments in this forum. I appreciate the wealth of info and expertise here, and I took lots of notes and organized them into topics.
Now I still have these questions please…

1. I’m planning to use a DX9 transmitter, 9-channel Spektrum receiver (AR9030T) and an Eagle A3 Pro stabilizer. Any comments or tips on these choices?
2. Other than aesthetics (and a little power loss), is there any problem shortening the original props by ½ or even 5/8 inch?
3. What telemetry data would be good to set up?

Thanks in advance, and I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I progress.

[xviper]

As I posted on 10/10/20, I’m a newbie, learning with an Apprentice. I’m also gathering parts and info for my B-24, and hope to maiden it this summer.
As someone suggested, I read all the comments in this forum. I appreciate the wealth of info and expertise here, and I took lots of notes and organized them into topics.
Now I still have these questions please…

1. I’m planning to use a DX9 transmitter, 9-channel Spektrum receiver (AR9030T) and an Eagle A3 Pro stabilizer. Any comments or tips on these choices?
2. Other than aesthetics (and a little power loss), is there any problem shortening the original props by ½ or even 5/8 inch?
3. What telemetry data would be good to set up?

Thanks in advance, and I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I progress.

1. Unless you already have these items, there is no need for them. Are you planning to one day progress to a plane where you might need 9 channels? If not, a DX8 G2 or DX6 G2 is more than adequate for this plane. You also don't need a 9-ch. RX to fly this plane unless you plane to do fancy stuff like differential thrust or independent nose steering. An AR637T would suffice, in which case, you won't be needing the HobbyEagle either. Finally, the cheaper, simpler HobbyEagle A3-L will do quite nicely for this plane.
2. Are you shortening the props by 1/2" in radius or diameter? 1/2" shorter per blade is 1" in diameter. That would make this plane a pig, especially if you're planning to fly it on 3 cells.
3. What telemetry information do you want to see? The most important one is flight battery volts and maybe m.amps used/remaining.

[Hugh Wiedman]

As I posted on 10/10/20, I’m a newbie, learning with an Apprentice. I’m also gathering parts and info for my B-24, and hope to maiden it this summer.
As someone suggested, I read all the comments in this forum. I appreciate the wealth of info and expertise here, and I took lots of notes and organized them into topics.
Now I still have these questions please…

1. I’m planning to use a DX9 transmitter, 9-channel Spektrum receiver (AR9030T) and an Eagle A3 Pro stabilizer. Any comments or tips on these choices?
2. Other than aesthetics (and a little power loss), is there any problem shortening the original props by ½ or even 5/8 inch?
3. What telemetry data would be good to set up?

Thanks in advance, and I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I progress.

Agree with xviper completely. Keep it simple and don't overthink this. I flew both my B-24's on a Dx6 for a couple years just fine, although I now use the Dx9, purchased for other reasons. Even on the 6 I still installed servos for the front and top turrets, y'd to the rudder and ailerons. Also installed the sound system, so trust me, a 6 channel RX is all you need.

Both of mine have the Ar636, now replaced by the AR637T, so for Rx and gyro, that's what I would recommend, with gains in the 45-55% range on flaps up and 85-95% gains on take off and landing flaps. But I use those RX's exclusively so maybe I'm biased.

I would leave the props as is, don't start planning for a prop strike before even getting in the air. Reducing them by 1/2 " won't keep from getting a prop strike, if it tips enough, the outboard will strike anyway and all you'll do is destroy the planes flight characteristics. It flies very stable, and cruises all day at 50% power. Takes off easy with half flaps and lands nice and slow at full flaps. Just slow it down enough on landing to keep the nose wheel from striking first, which will result in all kinds of issues. Just get a few extra props. I'm no expert pilot and in some 80 flights on both grass and asphalt I've only had 1 prop strike, a horrible landing in a strong crosswind with the nose wheel striking first followed by a bucking bronco down the runway.

Regarding telemetry, that's always nice but can be a distraction for newer pilots. Concentrate on flying and landing and don't worry about all the cool data you can see/hear on the TX. They still don't have telemetry that says "crash imminent " or "pull up, pull up". Besides, I get 10 minutes on 2 4000 mah batteries and just set my timer to 9 minutes with verbal call outs so I have plenty of time to prepare for landing and a few go arounds. Used to have battery voltage call outs on my EDF'S, but each time I "punched" it, voltage dropped below my set level for a nano second and it was constantly giving me warnings and distracting me from actually just flying, but maybe that's just me, not the best multi-tasker.

[MikeT]

As I posted on 10/10/20, I’m a newbie, learning with an Apprentice. I’m also gathering parts and info for my B-24, and hope to maiden it this summer.
As someone suggested, I read all the comments in this forum. I appreciate the wealth of info and expertise here, and I took lots of notes and organized them into topics.
Now I still have these questions please…

1. I’m planning to use a DX9 transmitter, 9-channel Spektrum receiver (AR9030T) and an Eagle A3 Pro stabilizer. Any comments or tips on these choices?
2. Other than aesthetics (and a little power loss), is there any problem shortening the original props by ½ or even 5/8 inch?
3. What telemetry data would be good to set up?

Thanks in advance, and I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I progress.

I've always believed that you buy more radio than you'll need. The DX9 is a great radio. I also use 3S packs In my B-24 as the 4S is overkill. I don't use a gyro or telemetry in my set up.

Mike

[Gringotuerto]

[FONT=Calibri]Now I still have these questions please…

1. Sure that's a fine radio. It has a few extra channels, but no harm. Thinking ahead to next plane, if you buy a plane that actually needs 9 channels, you might be tempted to switch out the 9ch from the B-24 and replace it with a cheaper 6ch, so you can use the 9ch where it is needed. But I guess you can deal with that later. And the cost difference is not a lot.

2. On the gyro, I think that one supports a "gain" channel. Since you have spare channels anyway, you might connect the gain to a knob - I do this on several planes. That way you can set the gain however you want it even during flight, or turn off the gyro by rotating the knob all the way.

3. I know you know this, but check the control surface directions and gyro directions again, even though you already checked them. People get in the air with these backwards OFTEN.

4. Regarding telemetry, an alarm on main battery voltage might be useful (if it supports inputs that high....I think 9030T does). That could save you from flying too long and hurting your main batteries. But it takes an extra few minutes of soldering to tap the lines for this purpose, and on most of my planes I have been too lazy to do it. I don't even set a timer. I just land when it seems like I should land, and that seems to work well enough. But each person has different preferences here.

Most of all, just do whatever you feel like doing. It's a hobby, not really driven by practical considerations.

Do be careful of prop strikes on this plane! I recently saw a club member destroy a B-24 by hitting a bump on takeoff, which caused one prop to dig into the ground and the plane cartwheeled. That is by far the biggest issue with this plane, with those wide-spread outboard engines.

Oh one other thing...since you have extra channels anyway, you might think about making bomb-bay doors and a bomb release. The real B-24 has sliding doors which are a mechanical nightmare. But if you cheat and make swinging hinge doors, nobody will notice. I have two e-flite payload releases in mine, and frequently bomb my own airfield. The B-24 of course has a limited flight envelope, so this gives you something else to do with the plane.

[TedP]

Thanks for all your comments.

I know this B-24 doesn’t need 9 channels. But I like gadgetry, I like the DX9 features and I wanted equipment I could grow into.

From comments in this forum it seems there is significant potential for great damage from a prop strike, so I’m willing to give up a little performance in exchange for reduced risk. I hoped trimming ½ inch off the length of only the outboard prop blades might reduce the risk at least a little (and not impact performance too much).

[Gringotuerto]

...But I like gadgetry, ...

I know how that goes. My first plane with telemetry reports temperature, RPM, two voltages, weather, bird migrations, and live NASDAQ quotes.