Originally posted by paladin
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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan
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Here are a few things I've done with these cheap main gear retracts on the Corsair where you can get more use out of them before having to replace them. (1). Apply a THIN coat of JB Weld over the plastic case where it normally cracks on both sides. Don't cover up the screw holes or the seam! I even do this with a brand new retract right out of the package. They won't crack anymore! (2). The cam that travels on the worm screw gets "nicked" or "beveled" on the edge causing it to slip out of the trunnion from a hard (or not so hard) landing. That's why the gear just flops. It's made of cheap soft Chinese pot metal. Remove the 7 screws and slowly separate the two haves of the case. Take the cam off the worm screw and flip it around to the other side that is not nicked and screw it back on the worm screw.. (3). The worm screw gets bent from a hard landing. Take it out and try to bend it back as straight as you can. It won't be perfectly straight and it will cause the gear to studder (jerk) as it goes up and down, but it works and nobody is going to see it after takeoff or when landing anyway.😂Originally posted by Elmo Te View PostThe fragile gear case would be OK as the frangible link if it was available as a cheap replacement. $5 per case, $9 for a matched set. I have 4 perfectly operational gear sets looking for new
houses! Instead I have to spend $50 bucks for a set when 98% of what I am buying, I already have in spades!
Elmo Te
(1st post on the Squawk)😶
If anyone can find better replacement retracts or even better CNC machined parts (worm screw & cam), count me in!!!
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DW, great tips and very doable for most. Bravo Zulu, Sir. Best, LBOriginally posted by Denniswpb View Post
Here are a few things I've done with these cheap main gear retracts on the Corsair where you can get more use out of them before having to replace them. (1). Apply a THIN coat of JB Weld over the plastic case where it normally cracks on both sides. Don't cover up the screw holes or the seam! I even do this with a brand new retract right out of the package. They won't crack anymore! (2). The cam that travels on the worm screw gets "nicked" or "beveled" on the edge causing it to slip out of the trunnion from a hard (or not so hard) landing. That's why the gear just flops. It's made of cheap soft Chinese pot metal. remove the 7 screws and slowly separate the two haves of the case. Take the cam off the worm screw and flip it around to the other side that is not nicked and screw it back on the worm screw.. (3). The worm screw gets bent from a hard landing. Take it out and try to bend it back as straight as you can. It won't be perfectly straight and it will cause the gear to studder (jerk) as it goes up and down, but it works and nobody is going to see it after takeoff or when landing anyway.😂
If anyone can find better replacement retracts or even better CNC machined parts (worm screw & cam), count me in!!!"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"You just need the will to do what the other guy wouldn't."~Keyser Soze~
AMA#116446
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I just sent them an email asking what it would take to manufacture an upgraded retract, or at least the internal parts. I will post once I receive their response.Originally posted by paladin View Postwelcome elmo!
here is what you do. go to the hot link below:
FMS F4U Corsair V3 1400 Rotating Electric Retract Aluminum Upgrade (smallpartscnc.com)
and call them. ask them if they will make a set for the flite line corsair. they are going to say we need 25 (some number willing to buy them) before we cut chips. ask them if they can put up a page for these and have people leave their e-mails and the number they will buy. i know they have sent several away to get the 25 on their own, but they(small parts CnC) are the hub where everyone will go to so they need to do the counting. i'm sure if they did they would reach 25 pretty quickly.
good luck
Joe
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Just get the retracts, however as of yesterday, they were not in stock.. If you have some broken retracts, try what I suggested in Post #4762Originally posted by RodgerC View PostI was going to order some spare landing gear parts "just in case". Do you recommend ordering the whole gear set (retract units + struts & wheels) at around $80 or just the retract units at around $40 ?
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Thanks. RC Castle have them both. I'm in NZ so I have been ordering from them rather than motionrc. Their prices are good and shipping OK.Originally posted by Denniswpb View Post
Just get the retracts, however as of yesterday, they were not in stock.. If you have some broken retracts, try what I suggested in Post #4762
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Maiden flight and crash yesterday :( Tough posting videos of pilot error, but if it saves anyone else... I am not a very good pilot, but have improved a ton with my E-Flite P-51 and A-10 and micro A10. I have intercut hat cam and on board cam. I think I didnt carry enough speed and she stalls right near the end (you can see the nose drop) and bounces like a basketball. I believe I was used to my smaller P-51 and her landing speed. I had mid flaps down. Full flaps I may have been ok. I wish I did some more practice runs and practice stalls to learn the plane's characteristics before bringing her down the first time. Damage was relatively minor... landing gear and prop. Parts arrive Wednesday and I will try again. Video is from Brunswick, MD. Flying over railroad tracks, C&O Canal and looking at Virginia across the Potomac River. I live near Harper's Ferry, WV.
Any suggestions, tips or corrections on landing would be great. It happened pretty quick.
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I'd say fly it down keep the throttle up just enough for it to keep a slow sink, use the throttle to adjust the sink rate use the elevator to keep the plane flat, as you are about to touch down (like 1-2 feet off the deck) chop power and flare lightly to keep the sink rate stable. On touch down keep adding elevator slowly as to not induce a bounce. That's the best way I can explain how I land my warbirds.
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To be honest, i think most of that was good.. but at the last minute u tried too get or slam it down... im not a great pilot,, but around 200 on this corsair.. have learned alot, mostly from the fine people on this thread.. so what i say is when u r that close to the ground dont force it,, it was still flying nicely and if let goOriginally posted by brianswiger View PostMaiden flight and crash yesterday :( Tough posting videos of pilot error, but if it saves anyone else... I am not a very good pilot, but have improved a ton with my E-Flite P-51 and A-10 and micro A10. I have intercut hat cam and on board cam. I think I didnt carry enough speed and she stalls right near the end (you can see the nose drop) and bounces like a basketball. I believe I was used to my smaller P-51 and her landing speed. I had mid flaps down. Full flaps I may have been ok. I wish I did some more practice runs and practice stalls to learn the plane's characteristics before bringing her down the first time. Damage was relatively minor... landing gear and prop. Parts arrive Wednesday and I will try again. Video is from Brunswick, MD. Flying over railroad tracks, C&O Canal and looking at Virginia across the Potomac River. I live near Harper's Ferry, WV.
Any suggestions, tips or corrections on landing would be great. It happened pretty quick.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrtSggWL1rA
(no down elev) at that last bit,, it would have been a way better outcome,, but a little further down the runway... short Answer is let it settle on its own last 50 feet or so.. i have not broken gear with this method. Happy flying
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Thanks guys!
f4u ausie.. I think you helped point out the problem... I don't think I ever touched the elevator, she fell :( I bet full down flaps and it would have been ok or more speed and using more runway.
Thanks rifleman, I am going to fire up the simulator and work on your method!
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Another possible landing technique with the Corsair (and in fact I use it on the 1600mm Spitfire and 1700mm Mustang), is to land with full flaps and reduce power once lined up with the runway to 38% throttle and fly it down to the runway leveling off about 1-2 feet off the deck, then reduce throttle to 25% and keep it level till the mains touch. My main wheels are on the deck with the throttle still at 25%. After touch down, then slowly reduce throttle to 0. For me, this ends up with a very smooth and scale landing and since doing it this way, I've yet to damaged the retracts in any way after over 100 flights. First 15 flights I went through at least 6 retracts trying to flop it in, chop power or even do a three point landing. These retracts just don't hold up to that. The Spitfire and Mustang I use slightly less throttle, 28%, then 18%. Just another way to "skin the cat".Originally posted by brianswiger View PostThanks guys!
f4u ausie.. I think you helped point out the problem... I don't think I ever touched the elevator, she fell :( I bet full down flaps and it would have been ok or more speed and using more runway.
Thanks rifleman, I am going to fire up the simulator and work on your method!Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: EDF's: Mig 29 TV "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, SU-27 90mm 8S:F22 Red Lion/EuroFighterBronzeTiger/F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet/F16/F4 Jolly Rodgers & Blue Angel, 80&90 TV Avanti, Viper, Stinger 90. Props: 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, B-24, 1700 P-51, 60" Beast & P2 Bipe, Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 62" Extra 300, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" Edge
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Hey All, I have made some progress. Assembly of the fwd turtle-deck is completed and the canopy bow and canopy are now one piece which lets me start on the fwd cockpit IP and shroud again. I am inspired to see parts become assemblies finally. Tamms asked me this morning, "when are you going to finish your plane?" I damn near spit coffee! Well, at least she's interested...
Best, LB
9 Photos"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"You just need the will to do what the other guy wouldn't."~Keyser Soze~
AMA#116446
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