Official FMS 1500mm P-47D Razorback Thread

[vrosi1963]

Pilots pilot pilots , scaling samples for size 80% 77% 75 % the hatch is almost finalized , then on to the back turtle deck matching

[davegee]

Grossman,
You need to center punch the bolt accurately. Sometimes I use a brass tube to fit over the hole thin slip a punch inside. I have a cheap set of center punches I bought at Harbor Freight. They go from 3/32 to 1/2" by 1/64 increments. Place in a vise and set the drill speed to the lowest. Use a small dill bit to start then gradually use a bigger drill. Should be able to drill out without damaging the threads. Best of luck.
Painted the yellow tips on the prop blades, hope they look better than the OEM paint.
Davegee, Understand about the g-10
The pilot's legs go under the instrument to use the pedals to far to have him looking right in cockpit per my photos. Sorry Dave. They don't show up very well with stick and pilot in.
Best Regards, Rex

Hi Rex: prop blades and yellow tips Much bettter! All you need now are the CE logo and nomenclature decal that goes on the cuff and you should be done! Almost every period fighter and bomber of that era had the yellow tips like you have repainted them, that I have seen.

Yeah, I totally agree on the pilot and fitting into the cockpit to use the rudder pedals. I initially installed the rudder pedals, but they didn't line up that well with the pilot's feet, so I just took them out. And yes, nobody will see them because they don't really show up that far down in the cockpit and it's dark down there, too. He'll look great just as you have him.

Coming along great! Have you alreday flown this aircraft at the field yet? I don't remember now if you said you had or not. No matter, just curious.

Cheers

Davegee

[jetfool]

Grossman,
You need to center punch the bolt accurately. Sometimes I use a brass tube to fit over the hole thin slip a punch inside. I have a cheap set of center punches I bought at Harbor Freight. They go from 3/32 to 1/2" by 1/64 increments. Place in a vise and set the drill speed to the lowest. Use a small dill bit to start then gradually use a bigger drill. Should be able to drill out without damaging the threads. Best of luck.
Painted the yellow tips on the prop blades, hope they look better than the OEM paint.
Davegee, Understand about the g-10
The pilot's legs go under the instrument to use the pedals to far to have him looking right in cockpit per my photos. Sorry Dave. They don't show up very well with stick and pilot in.
Best Regards, Rex

[Grossman56]

Hi guys:
I've been digging into the P51B fuse lately. Everything seems pretty good with one exception, I have a screw broken off on the motor mount and there's not enough of the screw above the motor mount surface to grab with pliers or side cutters. Now, I know you can drill out the screw but I've never done it before. What do I need and how do I go about it??

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[davegee]

Will Do.
I have close-up of the bubble canopy if you can use them. I will post some pics for your detail work. May have some of the compression flaps and different panels in front of the windscreen. Go easy with the 80-grit paper. it cuts fast.
Best Regards, Rex

Sure, that would be great if you have anything to post that might help with my upcoming project.

I've been doing some testing of the G-10 and trailing edge modification. I had 1/32 inch thick G-10, the only thickness I found on one of the websites. If I was working with wood and not styrofoam, I think it would work well for me. But I think I'll pass on the trailing edge modifications with this airplane. It's just a lot more work than I'm willing to do. I do appreciate your texts on how to do it, though.

Cheers

davegee

[jetfool]

Will Do.
I have close-up of the bubble canopy if you can use them. I will post some pics for your detail work. May have some of the compression flaps and different panels in front of the windscreen. Go easy with the 80-grit paper. it cuts fast.
Best Regards, Rex

[Elbee]

Truly Impressive, Rex. Nicely done.

[davegee]

Few more pics

Boy, that really looks great, Rex!! You'll have to do an outdoor photoshoot when it is all done and ready for the show!

Cheers

Davegee

[davegee]

Davegee,
From the Detail & Scale P-47 book

Thanks, Rex. I used to have this book, and a ton others that had to be sold or given away when we moved to WY 6 years ago. I really had to get rid of them, but I sure miss some now!

You might already know that the previous series, the -30RE, is the airframe that the M model derived from. The last 130 of this production line were converted to M models, and they All went to the 56th FG. If you make a M model bubbletop, we'll be in rarefied air with custom built and modified foamies to the ones we are keen on representing.

I got the Du-Bro center and cutter and the 1/32 inch thick G-10 material the other day. I"m going to start experimenting on some spare elevator sections from the P-47 to see how it goes.

Cheers

davegee

[jetfool]

Davegee,
From the Detail & Scale P-47 book

[jetfool]

Few more pics

[jetfool]

Davegee,
I think the cuffs I have will work fine. The primer did its job, and the flat black paint is drying overnight. Really adds the look to the plane.
I will post the P-47-40-RA tomorrow.
Meanwhile Bob is now installed in his cockpit waiting for the next sortie.
Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Davegee,
I always looked at the details on other models whenever I saw them.
I have installed the armor glass and canopy. waiting on both to dry, Used RC-56 canopy glue and it takes time to set.
Sanded and primed the prop blades. Plan to paint props tomorrow, using your prop profile and photos I have so the yellow tips get correct. After Toledo I will Balance the big prop after adding the cuffs and fixing a boo-boo I did on fitting the first one.
Callie sent me a quote for the Phantom and P-47 things I need. Ordering these tonight.
Cockpit is really looking good with all the items installed. Bob is now strapped in the seat and will be installed as the last thing. Extended rudder pedal arms will be tricky to install but going to try. Another item that very few see ....Buuut I know it's there. LOL
I have a 3-view of the P-47D 40, Do you need a photo of this for your Bubbletop? From my Detail & Scale book.
Best Regards, Rex

Hi Rex: I think you'll agree once you repaint and touch up the props per the photo and drawing that I sent you that it will look more like a real plane and not like a toy or model. I look forward to see if you have success with your rudder pedals in your cockpit. If that works, I might add that on mine, too.

Bob is looking excellent in the cockpit! This will definitely be one of the focal points for the judges to stick their noses in for a closer look.

Yes, I could use a copy of that photo to help me with my bubbletop. Everything helps...

Regarding the prop cuffs, don't sweat those. I can easily print more and send to you. If you want to replace the cracked one that you had to repair, you can use that extra one that I sent with your package and will send you several more for your hobby parts box. They are a bit easy to break, but once you get them glued onto your props they become much stronger and should last for a long time. But they are always easy to replace thanks to printing. The big prop even for static display should really stand out for judges and enthusiasts, alike. The stock one works, but it looks a little goofy being so small. The large, more scale prop just exudes the power of the P-47!

My FMS P-47 kit left Paris France the other day, and most recently arrived in Memphis, TN. I think it will be here to me within a week or so. I think I was lucky to find it, even overseas. I hope the models will once again be available through FMS in Tallahassee, FL but if they don't, I at least have one that will work

Cheers

Davegee

[jetfool]

Davegee,
I always looked at the details on other models whenever I saw them.
I have installed the armor glass and canopy. waiting on both to dry, Used RC-56 canopy glue and it takes time to set.
Sanded and primed the prop blades. Plan to paint props tomorrow, using your prop profile and photos I have so the yellow tips get correct. After Toledo I will Balance the big prop after adding the cuffs and fixing a boo-boo I did on fitting the first one.
Callie sent me a quote for the Phantom and P-47 things I need. Ordering these tonight.
Cockpit is really looking good with all the items installed. Bob is now strapped in the seat and will be installed as the last thing. Extended rudder pedal arms will be tricky to install but going to try. Another item that very few see ....Buuut I know it's there. LOL
I have a 3-view of the P-47D 40, Do you need a photo of this for your Bubbletop? From my Detail & Scale book.
Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Davegee,
Yes, gunsight is waiting to be installed after the armor glass. It is very detailed. I painted the bump guard per a picture I found. It sets the gunsight off.
Best Regards, Rex

good. Little details like that should help with the judging, I would think. I think most of us who fancy warbirds, especially fighters, like to see things like gunsights in the cockpits.

Cheers

Dave

[jetfool]

Davegee,
Yes, gunsight is waiting to be installed after the armor glass. It is very detailed. I painted the bump guard per a picture I found. It sets the gunsight off.
Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Hi Rex: did the Mk.II gunsight make it through the shipping ok? Should be pretty easy to mount once are ready to do that. I try to glue it on so when seen from in fornt of the cockpit, the pilot's eye is looking right through the reflector glass on the gunsight. Then you can just glue it on at those two points that I painted on the mounting lugs on the sight. Let me know if you have any questions. It should be pretty accurate for what Bob and the others at that time were using in combat.

cheers

davegee

[davegee]

I think I have the cockpit about right for the pilot. Bob isn't glued in yet, but he is feet on floor and head and shoulders like my photos. Headrest glued in and looks like the time period at that time.
Dave, I think the armor glass sits at a 45' angle, correct me if I'm wrong, and glues to the frame of the canopy and base to the fus.
Best Regards, Rex

Hi Rex: great job resizing the headrest. Looks much better!

Regarding the angle of the armored glass in the windscreen, I think 45 degrees or so is a good estimate. Looking at it from a 90 degree angle in that in-air photo you posted, it looks like the armored glass frame approximately parallels the line of the sloping frame of the windscreen. I think that is a pretty safe and reasonable angle to put your armored glass and frame in position at about a 45 degree angle. Makes sense when I think of it; if it was perpendicular to the glareshield (straight up and down), it might be weaker to a direct bullet or flak hit. If less than 45 degrees, it might also be weaker to a direct hit. Just my guess.

Cheers

Davegee

[davegee]

I think I have the cockpit about right for the pilot. Bob isn't glued in yet, but he is feet on floor and head and shoulders like my photos. Headrest glued in and looks like the time period at that time.
Dave, I think the armor glass sits at a 45' angle, correct me if I'm wrong, and glues to the frame of the canopy and base to the fus.
Best Regards, Rex

Hi Rex: great job resizing the headrest. Looks much better!

Regarding the angle of the armored glass in the windscreen, I think 45 degrees or so is a good estimate. Looking at it from a 90 degree angle in that in-air photo you posted, it looks like the armored glass frame approximately parallels the line of the sloping frame of the windscreen. I think that is a pretty safe and reasonable angle to put your armored glass and frame in position at about a 45 degree angle. Makes sense when I think of it; if it was perpendicular to the glareshield (straight up and down), it might be weaker to a direct bullet or flak hit. If less than 45 degrees, it might also be weaker to a direct hit. Just my guess.

Cheers

Davegee

[jetfool]

Photos of real P-47 for reference