Official FMS 1500mm P-47D Razorback Thread
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Hi Rex: I think you'll agree once you repaint and touch up the props per the photo and drawing that I sent you that it will look more like a real plane and not like a toy or model. I look forward to see if you have success with your rudder pedals in your cockpit. If that works, I might add that on mine, too.Davegee,
I always looked at the details on other models whenever I saw them.
I have installed the armor glass and canopy. waiting on both to dry, Used RC-56 canopy glue and it takes time to set.
Sanded and primed the prop blades. Plan to paint props tomorrow, using your prop profile and photos I have so the yellow tips get correct. After Toledo I will Balance the big prop after adding the cuffs and fixing a boo-boo I did on fitting the first one.
Callie sent me a quote for the Phantom and P-47 things I need. Ordering these tonight.
Cockpit is really looking good with all the items installed. Bob is now strapped in the seat and will be installed as the last thing. Extended rudder pedal arms will be tricky to install but going to try. Another item that very few see ....Buuut I know it's there. LOL
I have a 3-view of the P-47D 40, Do you need a photo of this for your Bubbletop? From my Detail & Scale book.
Best Regards, Rex
Bob is looking excellent in the cockpit! This will definitely be one of the focal points for the judges to stick their noses in for a closer look.
Yes, I could use a copy of that photo to help me with my bubbletop. Everything helps...
Regarding the prop cuffs, don't sweat those. I can easily print more and send to you. If you want to replace the cracked one that you had to repair, you can use that extra one that I sent with your package and will send you several more for your hobby parts box. They are a bit easy to break, but once you get them glued onto your props they become much stronger and should last for a long time. But they are always easy to replace thanks to printing. The big prop even for static display should really stand out for judges and enthusiasts, alike. The stock one works, but it looks a little goofy being so small. The large, more scale prop just exudes the power of the P-47!
My FMS P-47 kit left Paris France the other day, and most recently arrived in Memphis, TN. I think it will be here to me within a week or so. I think I was lucky to find it, even overseas. I hope the models will once again be available through FMS in Tallahassee, FL but if they don't, I at least have one that will work
Cheers
Davegee
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Davegee,
I always looked at the details on other models whenever I saw them.
I have installed the armor glass and canopy. waiting on both to dry, Used RC-56 canopy glue and it takes time to set.
Sanded and primed the prop blades. Plan to paint props tomorrow, using your prop profile and photos I have so the yellow tips get correct. After Toledo I will Balance the big prop after adding the cuffs and fixing a boo-boo I did on fitting the first one.
Callie sent me a quote for the Phantom and P-47 things I need. Ordering these tonight.
Cockpit is really looking good with all the items installed. Bob is now strapped in the seat and will be installed as the last thing. Extended rudder pedal arms will be tricky to install but going to try. Another item that very few see ....Buuut I know it's there. LOL
I have a 3-view of the P-47D 40, Do you need a photo of this for your Bubbletop? From my Detail & Scale book.
Best Regards, RexLeave a comment:
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good. Little details like that should help with the judging, I would think. I think most of us who fancy warbirds, especially fighters, like to see things like gunsights in the cockpits.
Cheers
DaveLeave a comment:
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Davegee,
Yes, gunsight is waiting to be installed after the armor glass. It is very detailed. I painted the bump guard per a picture I found. It sets the gunsight off.
Best Regards, RexLeave a comment:
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Hi Rex: did the Mk.II gunsight make it through the shipping ok? Should be pretty easy to mount once are ready to do that. I try to glue it on so when seen from in fornt of the cockpit, the pilot's eye is looking right through the reflector glass on the gunsight. Then you can just glue it on at those two points that I painted on the mounting lugs on the sight. Let me know if you have any questions. It should be pretty accurate for what Bob and the others at that time were using in combat.
cheers
davegeeLeave a comment:
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Hi Rex: great job resizing the headrest. Looks much better!I think I have the cockpit about right for the pilot. Bob isn't glued in yet, but he is feet on floor and head and shoulders like my photos. Headrest glued in and looks like the time period at that time.
Dave, I think the armor glass sits at a 45' angle, correct me if I'm wrong, and glues to the frame of the canopy and base to the fus.
Best Regards, Rex
Regarding the angle of the armored glass in the windscreen, I think 45 degrees or so is a good estimate. Looking at it from a 90 degree angle in that in-air photo you posted, it looks like the armored glass frame approximately parallels the line of the sloping frame of the windscreen. I think that is a pretty safe and reasonable angle to put your armored glass and frame in position at about a 45 degree angle. Makes sense when I think of it; if it was perpendicular to the glareshield (straight up and down), it might be weaker to a direct bullet or flak hit. If less than 45 degrees, it might also be weaker to a direct hit. Just my guess.
Cheers
DavegeeLeave a comment:
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Hi Rex: great job resizing the headrest. Looks much better!I think I have the cockpit about right for the pilot. Bob isn't glued in yet, but he is feet on floor and head and shoulders like my photos. Headrest glued in and looks like the time period at that time.
Dave, I think the armor glass sits at a 45' angle, correct me if I'm wrong, and glues to the frame of the canopy and base to the fus.
Best Regards, Rex
Regarding the angle of the armored glass in the windscreen, I think 45 degrees or so is a good estimate. Looking at it from a 90 degree angle in that in-air photo you posted, it looks like the armored glass frame approximately parallels the line of the sloping frame of the windscreen. I think that is a pretty safe and reasonable angle to put your armored glass and frame in position at about a 45 degree angle. Makes sense when I think of it; if it was perpendicular to the glareshield (straight up and down), it might be weaker to a direct bullet or flak hit. If less than 45 degrees, it might also be weaker to a direct hit. Just my guess.
Cheers
DavegeeLeave a comment:
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I think I have the cockpit about right for the pilot. Bob isn't glued in yet, but he is feet on floor and head and shoulders like my photos. Headrest glued in and looks like the time period at that time.
Dave, I think the armor glass sits at a 45' angle, correct me if I'm wrong, and glues to the frame of the canopy and base to the fus.
Best Regards, Rex
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yeah, maybe these companies have dweebs who care more for "that looks Cool!" rather than people like you and me who want them accurate. I actually didn't catch it for awhile, like the E Flite 1500mm P-51D. I missed that for some time, actually my second one (Hun Hunter from Texas) that I still have and retired to hanging up in the garage still has the prop blades too tall on the yellow. Someday I'll get around to changing that to what it should be. Pretty easy to do, actually.Davegee,
Thanks for the info. I have flat black on hand and plan to get matte black this week for the triangle aera. Decided to have Bob strapped in with harness & seatbelt. I cracked one cuff so adding a little filler to hide the seam. Your cuffs look great. Callie will send a quote for the Curtiss decal and nomenclature on the prop. I was looking at photos today to see how the tips were painted. I have the FS# for the yellow. Will prime/sand props and re-do.
I don't understand why Manufactures spend lots of money on molds, R&D, .etc then don't take the effort to get the paint correct. I think they would sell more planes.
Best Regards, Rex
If I was a judge and really knew the true story on little details like that, I would ding them some on that score. I don't know if these judges would pick up on little things like that, but you and I know how it should look, and at least other modelers would appreciate the accuracy, I think.Leave a comment:
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Davegee,
Thanks for the info. I have flat black on hand and plan to get matte black this week for the triangle aera. Decided to have Bob strapped in with harness & seatbelt. I cracked one cuff so adding a little filler to hide the seam. Your cuffs look great. Callie will send a quote for the Curtiss decal and nomenclature on the prop. I was looking at photos today to see how the tips were painted. I have the FS# for the yellow. Will prime/sand props and re-do.
I don't understand why Manufactures spend lots of money on molds, R&D, .etc then don't take the effort to get the paint correct. I think they would sell more planes.
Best Regards, RexLeave a comment:
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looking great, Rex. You're probably already planning for this, but the glareshield is almost always matte black on almost every airplane from WWII to the present day. I'm talking about the triangular piece where you will install the armored glass. You probably are already planning on doing that, but just checking. It's really coming together in great shape!With 11" of snow on ground and still snowing and 0'
the best thing to do is work on planes.
I have started installing the cockpit parts. Glued .010" styrene strips over foam cockpit edge, gives a smoother look. Back styrene former glued in. Cockpit side walls decreased 1/4" to allow clearance underneath floorboard. Pilot was pre-fitted in cockpit and the brace under seat was shortened to 1 3/16" to give correct stance in cockpit, shoulder and head height.
Will paint touch up areas and install front canopy, armor glass and gunsight
Installed cuffs on propellor, will refinish paint
more to come later.
Best Regards, Rex
Cheers
davegeeLeave a comment:
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With 11" of snow on ground and still snowing and 0'
the best thing to do is work on planes.
I have started installing the cockpit parts. Glued .010" styrene strips over foam cockpit edge, gives a smoother look. Back styrene former glued in. Cockpit side walls decreased 1/4" to allow clearance underneath floorboard. Pilot was pre-fitted in cockpit and the brace under seat was shortened to 1 3/16" to give correct stance in cockpit, shoulder and head height.
Will paint touch up areas and install front canopy, armor glass and gunsight
Installed cuffs on propellor, will refinish paint
more to come later.
Best Regards, Rex
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Yes it will be filled Np
looking good, James. In the second picture, can you cover over the cutout where the OEM gunsight used to be? I'll be putting in a totally different printed gunsight and it would be better if the entire glareshield is smooth before I begin installing that and other stuff, too.
Thanks!
DavegeeLeave a comment:
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looking good, James. In the second picture, can you cover over the cutout where the OEM gunsight used to be? I'll be putting in a totally different printed gunsight and it would be better if the entire glareshield is smooth before I begin installing that and other stuff, too.
Thanks!
DavegeeLeave a comment:
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Sounds good, Rex. We'll stand by for more reports as you get the adjustments done to the seat/pilot height. Just part of the process.Davegee,
The cockpit parts are all fitting well but my extra 3/4" depth is almost too much. I am going today to get the height correct so there is more room below the cockpit. Now it is less than 1/8" and wiring underneath has to be correct so I want more clearance so moving the seat/. pilot a little will need to be done.
The instruments fit fairly well and look great. I will use some of my wifes clear craft epoxy for the glass. Dries crystal clear.
When I have side depth, pilot/seat height all set I will give all my dim. on here for others. There is plenty of room just need more clearance.
Elbee is our resident GOO-ROO!
I really enjoy the snow and cold weather. I do most of my building and if I lived in Florida or another warm state I'd never get any building done.
Best Regards, Rex
Cheers
davegeeLeave a comment:


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