Official FMS 1500mm P-47D Razorback Thread

[jetfool]

Davegee,
I will try to explain what I do but first I need to say Elbee is the one that first advised me on this while he was doing his Corsair and I was starting mine. The first time I removed all the factory decals, a long process of filling the deference of the bare foam back to an even level. The last few planes I have done I brush a heavy layer of poly acrylic over the whole plane, decals too. Let dry overnight and sand the next day to start a smooth surface. Sand the first coat until the decals start to show. Brush another heavy coat, this time I try to level the surface even. I start with 120 sandpaper and just cut the poly until the surface gets smoother. Do this about four times and the last coat I use 320 sandpaper. Everything at this point should be smooth as butter and not much weight added. Next, I spray sandable build up primer, sand down to the poly. Low spots will show so spray another primer coat and sand down until the surface is smooth and level. The panel lines will still show up ready for your paint. All this forms a hard shell (almost like fiberglass covering) but little weight gain.
I just watched a video on masking and painting foam models and not pulling up paint when removing the tape. Will try this on the phantom. It is in the P-39 post. He uses baby powder. You should check it out.
Glad to be of some help after all you guys are doing for me.
Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Thanks Dave,
I'm not much with the computer stuff but working with metal and wood I do well. I've always been able to look at expensive tools and figure out a way to make it to work for me. Sometimes the ole donkey brain works well.
On your test piece try the poly/ fiberglass, lightly sand (320) and your usual poly coats. you should see the strength with little weight.
I'll probably be standing in 0' weather waiting at the mailbox on the postman. HA

Best Regards, Rex

Thanks, Rex. I just ordered the Du Bro cutter from Amazon, and the G-10, a 12"x12"x1/32" thick from McMaster. I look forward to working with it to improve the trailing edges of the control surfaces and wings.

Question: could you briefly go through your technique step by step of using poly acrylic on your foam airplane parts? I have used it before a little bit, but would like to experiment a lot more using it on my upcoming FMS P-47D bubbletop.

Appreciate your expertise on these things!

Cheers

davegee

[jetfool]

Thanks Dave,
I'm not much with the computer stuff but working with metal and wood I do well. I've always been able to look at expensive tools and figure out a way to make it to work for me. Sometimes the ole donkey brain works well.
On your test piece try the poly/ fiberglass, lightly sand (320) and your usual poly coats. you should see the strength with little weight.
I'll probably be standing in 0' weather waiting at the mailbox on the postman. HA

Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Davegee,
Yes, you can cut with an X-Acto blade or on the thinner sizes I use those cheap scissors from Harbor Freight/ HD etc. Can use a Dremel cut-off wheel also. I usually just cut straight sections and cut an angle on the ends to butt up with the straight section. What g10 sticks out at the trailing it's a simple sanding back to the foam trailing edge before you start the bevel sanding. You can also cut the g10 in one piece if you choose, just uses up more of a relativity expensive material. Either way if alignment is correct, you will have a nice straight trailing edge that will prevent chipping. I think you will see the difference in how the g10 and edge is stiffer after you do some test pieces. Using the pine block helps me to sand an even line from te to leading edge. Your pine board can be any length you want; I just have that size in my tools. I have many homemade sanding blocks for radius sanding, spar grooves etc. I'm pretty cheap and make things that I can use without costing a lot. Sandpaper cut to strips and contact glue to the blocks is simple and makes changing sandpaper easy. Always wanted those Perma-grit sanding blocks just can't bring myself to pay the cost.
Best Regards, Rex

Hi Rex: that makes lots of sense. I'm going to start ordering the stuff you suggested and get it in the pipeline so I can start working on it when it all comes. I already have some FMS P-47 parts that I can use to get familiar with this technique, and if they come out well. I'll use those on my model.

Appreciate all your help on this.

Your package should arrive to you tomorrow.

Cheers

Davegee

[jetfool]

Davegee,
Yes, you can cut with an X-Acto blade or on the thinner sizes I use those cheap scissors from Harbor Freight/ HD etc. Can use a Dremel cut-off wheel also. I usually just cut straight sections and cut an angle on the ends to butt up with the straight section. What g10 sticks out at the trailing it's a simple sanding back to the foam trailing edge before you start the bevel sanding. You can also cut the g10 in one piece if you choose, just uses up more of a relativity expensive material. Either way if alignment is correct, you will have a nice straight trailing edge that will prevent chipping. I think you will see the difference in how the g10 and edge is stiffer after you do some test pieces. Using the pine block helps me to sand an even line from te to leading edge. Your pine board can be any length you want; I just have that size in my tools. I have many homemade sanding blocks for radius sanding, spar grooves etc. I'm pretty cheap and make things that I can use without costing a lot. Sandpaper cut to strips and contact glue to the blocks is simple and makes changing sandpaper easy. Always wanted those Perma-grit sanding blocks just can't bring myself to pay the cost.
Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Davegee,
Once you have the centerline marked use a sharp x-acto blade #11 and cut a slit 1/2"-3/4" deep. Take your g-10 and slide it in the slit, it should be flush with the existing foam trailing edge. glue with thin ca. you will feel the difference of the trailing edge when the ca sets up. Sand the foam down to the g-10 at the correct angle till it all looks right. I clamp a flat strip of scrap pine board, usually a 3/4'X 2" X 12" under the ail/elev/rud to give a hard flat surface as I sand the topside, reverse for the bottom. When done you should have a nice straight line that looks like the real one. Follow up with the poly/fiberglass strip and finish it out. I usually start with 80 grit sandpaper to get the first thick edge sand toward the leading edge then using 120 to 320 for final sanding. hope this helps.
Best Regards, Rex

Hi Rex: thanks for the explanation. I'll just have to try it and see how it goes. Is there any way to cut the g-10 without having to go out and buy a electric saw at Harbor Frieght? If I used the thinnest g-10, like the .015" material, is that possible to hand cut with a new sharp exacto blade?

Last question, all these surfaces will have curved areas on the trailing edges that need the g-10 to be cut to follow the curves of the trailing edges of the surfaces. Is that the way you cut yours to fit the parts?

Thanks!

Davegee

[davegee]

V2 scaling i think this is way better , will print a pilot with head rest armor plate to see if the height is looking correct .

That looks good, Jim. It would be good to see how the armor plate backing for the cockpit fits with the clearance for canopy. Nice job!

davegee

[davegee]

Davegee,
Once you have the centerline marked use a sharp x-acto blade #11 and cut a slit 1/2"-3/4" deep. Take your g-10 and slide it in the slit, it should be flush with the existing foam trailing edge. glue with thin ca. you will feel the difference of the trailing edge when the ca sets up. Sand the foam down to the g-10 at the correct angle till it all looks right. I clamp a flat strip of scrap pine board, usually a 3/4'X 2" X 12" under the ail/elev/rud to give a hard flat surface as I sand the topside, reverse for the bottom. When done you should have a nice straight line that looks like the real one. Follow up with the poly/fiberglass strip and finish it out. I usually start with 80 grit sandpaper to get the first thick edge sand toward the leading edge then using 120 to 320 for final sanding. hope this helps.
Best Regards, Rex

Thanks, Rex. How about for complicated curves, like the rounded edges of the horizontal stab, elevators, ailerons, etc. Do you just cut the curve into the g-10 so that it fits? Is there any way to use a exacto blade and cut them by hand without buying a motorized cutter from the store as you described?

Thanks,

Dave

[vrosi1963]

V2 scaling i think this is way better , will print a pilot with head rest armor plate to see if the height is looking correct .

[jetfool]

Davegee,
Once you have the centerline marked use a sharp x-acto blade #11 and cut a slit 1/2"-3/4" deep. Take your g-10 and slide it in the slit, it should be flush with the existing foam trailing edge. glue with thin ca. you will feel the difference of the trailing edge when the ca sets up. Sand the foam down to the g-10 at the correct angle till it all looks right. I clamp a flat strip of scrap pine board, usually a 3/4'X 2" X 12" under the ail/elev/rud to give a hard flat surface as I sand the topside, reverse for the bottom. When done you should have a nice straight line that looks like the real one. Follow up with the poly/fiberglass strip and finish it out. I usually start with 80 grit sandpaper to get the first thick edge sand toward the leading edge then using 120 to 320 for final sanding. hope this helps.
Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Davegee,
This is the DU-BRO slotter I use. Amazon sells it.
MSC Industrial is one place for Garolite/ G-10, 1/32" by 12" should give enough material to cut strips from.
McMaster-Carr is another and where I usually order from. They offer thinner sheets .015", .020", 1/32". I have sheets of all three 12X12". gives a choice to choose from.
Don't cut on your bandsaw, it will dull the blade immediately. I use a tile cutter table saw from Harber Freight (30-40$) mine came w/5" diamond blade. It is a thin blade, so I don't waste much material. Any questions. Ask.

Best Regards, Rex

That's good info, Rex. So, you cut the slot into the trailing edge of the control surface. How far does it stick out, and how do you make a smooth taper from the control surface to the end of the G-10 that you glued in place? I wish I had known about this technique years ago when I was flying the Aerotech and Yellow airplanes. It was fairly tapered but not quite to what I wanted it. At least it was Way better than foam airplanes!

Cheers

davegee

[davegee]

first shell test print , the cross section looks correct but will go up in scale , the fuse looks slightly lengthened to me per the real plane profile

That could be. They may have found to make it a better rc flying airplane, they had to stretch it out a little here and there.

Regarding the clear canopy, can I get at least a couple of those when you make them? I'm thinking just in case I scratch or damage one while flying, that kind of thing. I'd like to have some backups. I also plan to make the canopy retractable, if I can do that. Any extra $$ for extra clear canopies just let me know.

Your mods are looking great so far.

Thanks,

davegee

[jetfool]

Davegee,
This is the DU-BRO slotter I use. Amazon sells it.
MSC Industrial is one place for Garolite/ G-10, 1/32" by 12" should give enough material to cut strips from.
McMaster-Carr is another and where I usually order from. They offer thinner sheets .015", .020", 1/32". I have sheets of all three 12X12". gives a choice to choose from.
Don't cut on your bandsaw, it will dull the blade immediately. I use a tile cutter table saw from Harber Freight (30-40$) mine came w/5" diamond blade. It is a thin blade, so I don't waste much material. Any questions. Ask.

Best Regards, Rex

[Elbee]

first shell test print..........

VR,

That will do, SIr.

Best, LB

[jetfool]

vrosi1963,
It is looking fantastic. Nice craftsmanship.
Best Regards, Rex

[f4u ausie]

That's absolutely incredible.. . between the 4 of yas. ( I'm sure the other 3 no who U r),,, a full size 3 d printed p47 is on the horizon!! Oh ok maybe half scale awesome 👍

[vrosi1963]

first shell test print , the cross section looks correct but will go up in scale , the fuse looks slightly lengthened to me per the real plane profile

[davegee]

Davegee,
Hope you add all the details you can think of and the more I think of the sharper trailing edges I think they would withstand any flying conditions if adding the g10 and poly acrylic/fiberglass.
Thanks for the update
Best Regards, Rex

Yes, I think I would like to do that. I have some extra parts that I can practice on. Can you tell me where to get that device to mark the centlerline of the trailing edges and also where to get the g10 poly acrylic fiberglass? I might as well stock up with tools and parts I would like to add to this model. I think the P-47 redo of the fuselage finishing and shipping back to me is at least a month away so this would be a good time to get familiar wtih doing the trailing edge mods on some sample surfaces.

Thanks,

davegee

[jetfool]

Davegee,
Hope you add all the details you can think of and the more I think of the sharper trailing edges I think they would withstand any flying conditions if adding the g10 and poly acrylic/fiberglass.
Thanks for the update
Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

I’ve been flying the FMS 1.5m P-47D razorback since they came out with them in 2016. Was always hoping for a bubble top, but looks like this is the only way to get one, right now. I’m really looking forward to it. Will probably my final P-47, but a good one to end on.

Yeah, as you might know, the M model used an uprated R2800 C series engine originally designed for the larger P-47N. In the smaller M model, it was hell on wheels. My late friend Russ Kyler who flew one in the last months of the war declared that “Any German that took them on above 25,000 feet was Dead Meat!”

I can help you with any specific detail questions you might have if you go ahead and make one.

Your package has been sitting not far from you in Indiana for a couple of days now, but thanks to the weekend and federal holiday tomorrow, it will arrive at your house on Tuesday. Hopefully everything arrives intact.

cheers

Davegee