Official FMS 1500mm P-47D Razorback Thread

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  • vrosi1963
    replied
    way more work than i planed on but looks very clean , the back fuse next . canopy plug print this weekend V1
    Attached Files

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  • davegee
    replied
    Yeah, the real Hairless Joe saw action over northern France on many occasions, so I guess it’s sorta fitting that I ended up buying the kit that comes out of that area.

    In 2004, my wife and I flew to England along with my Aerotech 1/6 scale P-47 Hairless Joe in the cargo hold. We rented a large station wagon in London to drive up to Boxted, Essex for a big air show at the same field the original plane flew from in WWII. This foamie replica won’t do anything like that one, but I hope to fly it quite a bit later this year and beyond. Should be a fun project.

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  • jetfool
    replied
    Well Dave, when this plane is finished you can honestly say that it has been to Europe and back to good ole USA. Glad it arrived safe. Looking forward to the build.
    Best Regards, Rex

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  • f4u ausie
    replied
    Good job dave. Gota say $100 us dollars from frenchy frenchy sound. EeXtreeemly fair

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  • davegee
    replied
    I'm relieved to say that my FMS 1.5M P-47D razorback model made it safely into my hands starting from Paris, France. It was the best price I could find for one, if you could even find one for sale! I had to pay $100 for FedEx to ship it to me, but in case thise embargo or backlog of models or whatever you call it from overseas becomes permanent or long lasting, at least I have my plane and parts to complete my Hairless Joe bubble top airplane at my pace.

    I salute FMS for packing the plane so well for shipment. Even though a hole got punched through the entire boxing the size of a silver dollar, none of the contents was damaged. Probably had Ace Ventura handling the package...

    Cheers

    davegee

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  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by vrosi1963
    same pilot but 85% as a test to see if i can paint a while ago quick job, yes way better than most can. this to me represents a p47 bubble pilot with late version goggles either black or red Lense ski goggle type . never liked the early British spitfire goggles with metal frames , the pilot looks way better when you sand or scrape the face and the rest with a xacto and primer it several times prior to painting the final colors
    Hi James: looks good. I agree with you on the later model issue goggles that resemble modern ski goggles. However, a great deal of latitude was allowed for pilot preference and comfort for flying gear, and many kept preferred items like RAF life vests, goggles, and helmets. I will be using a printed full body pilot similar to what Rex has, and will print up one of those pilots for mine to resemble Col. Dave Schilling who flew Hairless Joe which is the subject of my upcoming project that you are doing the bubbletop mod for.

    I'll attach a photo of fellow 56th FG pilot Gabby Gabreski taken just prior to his last flight on July 20,1944 and subsequent capture by the Germans. Up until his final mission, he preferred to use the old style RAF boots, goggles, and helmet for flying his missions.In some photos, he also wore the RAF style life vest.

    Cheers

    Davegee

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  • jetfool
    replied
    Pilot looks great. I have been practicing on some old pilots I have. Takes practice to learn how to make them look right, at least for me. I have learned a great deal from others on this forum.

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  • vrosi1963
    replied
    same pilot but 85% as a test to see if i can paint a while ago quick job, yes way better than most can. this to me represents a p47 bubble pilot with late version goggles either black or red Lense ski goggle type . never liked the early British spitfire goggles with metal frames , the pilot looks way better when you sand or scrape the face and the rest with a xacto and primer it several times prior to painting the final colors
    Attached Files

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  • jetfool
    replied
    vrosi1963,
    Pilots look great. I used Dave&Dans 3d/painted full body pilot in mine with a full cockpit.
    Callie is shipping my graphics Friday, almost done. I have 3 flights on LUCKY. Flies like a dream. They were easy flights and didn't want to ding it so didn't wring it out.
    Best Regards, Rex

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  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by vrosi1963
    Pilots pilot pilots , scaling samples for size 80% 77% 75 % the hatch is almost finalized , then on to the back turtle deck matching
    Awesome! Great progress! I will be making a full cockpit and a full size pilot that I already printed. Should look great in the bubbletop!

    Davegee

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  • vrosi1963
    replied
    Pilots pilot pilots , scaling samples for size 80% 77% 75 % the hatch is almost finalized , then on to the back turtle deck matching
    Attached Files

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  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool
    Grossman,
    You need to center punch the bolt accurately. Sometimes I use a brass tube to fit over the hole thin slip a punch inside. I have a cheap set of center punches I bought at Harbor Freight. They go from 3/32 to 1/2" by 1/64 increments. Place in a vise and set the drill speed to the lowest. Use a small dill bit to start then gradually use a bigger drill. Should be able to drill out without damaging the threads. Best of luck.
    Painted the yellow tips on the prop blades, hope they look better than the OEM paint.
    Davegee, Understand about the g-10
    The pilot's legs go under the instrument to use the pedals to far to have him looking right in cockpit per my photos. Sorry Dave. They don't show up very well with stick and pilot in.
    Best Regards, Rex

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    Hi Rex: prop blades and yellow tips Much bettter! All you need now are the CE logo and nomenclature decal that goes on the cuff and you should be done! Almost every period fighter and bomber of that era had the yellow tips like you have repainted them, that I have seen.

    Yeah, I totally agree on the pilot and fitting into the cockpit to use the rudder pedals. I initially installed the rudder pedals, but they didn't line up that well with the pilot's feet, so I just took them out. And yes, nobody will see them because they don't really show up that far down in the cockpit and it's dark down there, too. He'll look great just as you have him.

    Coming along great! Have you alreday flown this aircraft at the field yet? I don't remember now if you said you had or not. No matter, just curious.

    Cheers

    Davegee



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  • jetfool
    replied
    Grossman,
    You need to center punch the bolt accurately. Sometimes I use a brass tube to fit over the hole thin slip a punch inside. I have a cheap set of center punches I bought at Harbor Freight. They go from 3/32 to 1/2" by 1/64 increments. Place in a vise and set the drill speed to the lowest. Use a small dill bit to start then gradually use a bigger drill. Should be able to drill out without damaging the threads. Best of luck.
    Painted the yellow tips on the prop blades, hope they look better than the OEM paint.
    Davegee, Understand about the g-10
    The pilot's legs go under the instrument to use the pedals to far to have him looking right in cockpit per my photos. Sorry Dave. They don't show up very well with stick and pilot in.
    Best Regards, Rex

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  • Grossman56
    replied
    Hi guys:
    I've been digging into the P51B fuse lately. Everything seems pretty good with one exception, I have a screw broken off on the motor mount and there's not enough of the screw above the motor mount surface to grab with pliers or side cutters. Now, I know you can drill out the screw but I've never done it before. What do I need and how do I go about it??

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool
    Will Do.
    I have close-up of the bubble canopy if you can use them. I will post some pics for your detail work. May have some of the compression flaps and different panels in front of the windscreen. Go easy with the 80-grit paper. it cuts fast.
    Best Regards, Rex
    Sure, that would be great if you have anything to post that might help with my upcoming project.

    I've been doing some testing of the G-10 and trailing edge modification. I had 1/32 inch thick G-10, the only thickness I found on one of the websites. If I was working with wood and not styrofoam, I think it would work well for me. But I think I'll pass on the trailing edge modifications with this airplane. It's just a lot more work than I'm willing to do. I do appreciate your texts on how to do it, though.

    Cheers

    davegee

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  • jetfool
    replied
    Will Do.
    I have close-up of the bubble canopy if you can use them. I will post some pics for your detail work. May have some of the compression flaps and different panels in front of the windscreen. Go easy with the 80-grit paper. it cuts fast.
    Best Regards, Rex

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  • Elbee
    commented on 's reply
    Truly Impressive, Rex. Nicely done.

  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool
    Few more pics

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    Boy, that really looks great, Rex!! You'll have to do an outdoor photoshoot when it is all done and ready for the show!

    Cheers

    Davegee

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  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool
    Davegee,
    From the Detail & Scale P-47 book

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    Thanks, Rex. I used to have this book, and a ton others that had to be sold or given away when we moved to WY 6 years ago. I really had to get rid of them, but I sure miss some now!

    You might already know that the previous series, the -30RE, is the airframe that the M model derived from. The last 130 of this production line were converted to M models, and they All went to the 56th FG. If you make a M model bubbletop, we'll be in rarefied air with custom built and modified foamies to the ones we are keen on representing.

    I got the Du-Bro center and cutter and the 1/32 inch thick G-10 material the other day. I"m going to start experimenting on some spare elevator sections from the P-47 to see how it goes.

    Cheers

    davegee

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  • jetfool
    replied
    Davegee,
    From the Detail & Scale P-47 book

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