Official FMS 1500mm P-47D Razorback Thread

[davegee]

Davegee,
Once you have the centerline marked use a sharp x-acto blade #11 and cut a slit 1/2"-3/4" deep. Take your g-10 and slide it in the slit, it should be flush with the existing foam trailing edge. glue with thin ca. you will feel the difference of the trailing edge when the ca sets up. Sand the foam down to the g-10 at the correct angle till it all looks right. I clamp a flat strip of scrap pine board, usually a 3/4'X 2" X 12" under the ail/elev/rud to give a hard flat surface as I sand the topside, reverse for the bottom. When done you should have a nice straight line that looks like the real one. Follow up with the poly/fiberglass strip and finish it out. I usually start with 80 grit sandpaper to get the first thick edge sand toward the leading edge then using 120 to 320 for final sanding. hope this helps.
Best Regards, Rex

Hi Rex: thanks for the explanation. I'll just have to try it and see how it goes. Is there any way to cut the g-10 without having to go out and buy a electric saw at Harbor Frieght? If I used the thinnest g-10, like the .015" material, is that possible to hand cut with a new sharp exacto blade?

Last question, all these surfaces will have curved areas on the trailing edges that need the g-10 to be cut to follow the curves of the trailing edges of the surfaces. Is that the way you cut yours to fit the parts?

Thanks!

Davegee

[jetfool]

Davegee,
Yes, you can cut with an X-Acto blade or on the thinner sizes I use those cheap scissors from Harbor Freight/ HD etc. Can use a Dremel cut-off wheel also. I usually just cut straight sections and cut an angle on the ends to butt up with the straight section. What g10 sticks out at the trailing it's a simple sanding back to the foam trailing edge before you start the bevel sanding. You can also cut the g10 in one piece if you choose, just uses up more of a relativity expensive material. Either way if alignment is correct, you will have a nice straight trailing edge that will prevent chipping. I think you will see the difference in how the g10 and edge is stiffer after you do some test pieces. Using the pine block helps me to sand an even line from te to leading edge. Your pine board can be any length you want; I just have that size in my tools. I have many homemade sanding blocks for radius sanding, spar grooves etc. I'm pretty cheap and make things that I can use without costing a lot. Sandpaper cut to strips and contact glue to the blocks is simple and makes changing sandpaper easy. Always wanted those Perma-grit sanding blocks just can't bring myself to pay the cost.
Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Davegee,
Yes, you can cut with an X-Acto blade or on the thinner sizes I use those cheap scissors from Harbor Freight/ HD etc. Can use a Dremel cut-off wheel also. I usually just cut straight sections and cut an angle on the ends to butt up with the straight section. What g10 sticks out at the trailing it's a simple sanding back to the foam trailing edge before you start the bevel sanding. You can also cut the g10 in one piece if you choose, just uses up more of a relativity expensive material. Either way if alignment is correct, you will have a nice straight trailing edge that will prevent chipping. I think you will see the difference in how the g10 and edge is stiffer after you do some test pieces. Using the pine block helps me to sand an even line from te to leading edge. Your pine board can be any length you want; I just have that size in my tools. I have many homemade sanding blocks for radius sanding, spar grooves etc. I'm pretty cheap and make things that I can use without costing a lot. Sandpaper cut to strips and contact glue to the blocks is simple and makes changing sandpaper easy. Always wanted those Perma-grit sanding blocks just can't bring myself to pay the cost.
Best Regards, Rex

Hi Rex: that makes lots of sense. I'm going to start ordering the stuff you suggested and get it in the pipeline so I can start working on it when it all comes. I already have some FMS P-47 parts that I can use to get familiar with this technique, and if they come out well. I'll use those on my model.

Appreciate all your help on this.

Your package should arrive to you tomorrow.

Cheers

Davegee

[jetfool]

Thanks Dave,
I'm not much with the computer stuff but working with metal and wood I do well. I've always been able to look at expensive tools and figure out a way to make it to work for me. Sometimes the ole donkey brain works well.
On your test piece try the poly/ fiberglass, lightly sand (320) and your usual poly coats. you should see the strength with little weight.
I'll probably be standing in 0' weather waiting at the mailbox on the postman. HA

Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Thanks Dave,
I'm not much with the computer stuff but working with metal and wood I do well. I've always been able to look at expensive tools and figure out a way to make it to work for me. Sometimes the ole donkey brain works well.
On your test piece try the poly/ fiberglass, lightly sand (320) and your usual poly coats. you should see the strength with little weight.
I'll probably be standing in 0' weather waiting at the mailbox on the postman. HA

Best Regards, Rex

Thanks, Rex. I just ordered the Du Bro cutter from Amazon, and the G-10, a 12"x12"x1/32" thick from McMaster. I look forward to working with it to improve the trailing edges of the control surfaces and wings.

Question: could you briefly go through your technique step by step of using poly acrylic on your foam airplane parts? I have used it before a little bit, but would like to experiment a lot more using it on my upcoming FMS P-47D bubbletop.

Appreciate your expertise on these things!

Cheers

davegee

[jetfool]

Davegee,
I will try to explain what I do but first I need to say Elbee is the one that first advised me on this while he was doing his Corsair and I was starting mine. The first time I removed all the factory decals, a long process of filling the deference of the bare foam back to an even level. The last few planes I have done I brush a heavy layer of poly acrylic over the whole plane, decals too. Let dry overnight and sand the next day to start a smooth surface. Sand the first coat until the decals start to show. Brush another heavy coat, this time I try to level the surface even. I start with 120 sandpaper and just cut the poly until the surface gets smoother. Do this about four times and the last coat I use 320 sandpaper. Everything at this point should be smooth as butter and not much weight added. Next, I spray sandable build up primer, sand down to the poly. Low spots will show so spray another primer coat and sand down until the surface is smooth and level. The panel lines will still show up ready for your paint. All this forms a hard shell (almost like fiberglass covering) but little weight gain.
I just watched a video on masking and painting foam models and not pulling up paint when removing the tape. Will try this on the phantom. It is in the P-39 post. He uses baby powder. You should check it out.
Glad to be of some help after all you guys are doing for me.
Best Regards, Rex

[davegee]

Davegee,
I will try to explain what I do but first I need to say Elbee is the one that first advised me on this while he was doing his Corsair and I was starting mine. The first time I removed all the factory decals, a long process of filling the deference of the bare foam back to an even level. The last few planes I have done I brush a heavy layer of poly acrylic over the whole plane, decals too. Let dry overnight and sand the next day to start a smooth surface. Sand the first coat until the decals start to show. Brush another heavy coat, this time I try to level the surface even. I start with 120 sandpaper and just cut the poly until the surface gets smoother. Do this about four times and the last coat I use 320 sandpaper. Everything at this point should be smooth as butter and not much weight added. Next, I spray sandable build up primer, sand down to the poly. Low spots will show so spray another primer coat and sand down until the surface is smooth and level. The panel lines will still show up ready for your paint. All this forms a hard shell (almost like fiberglass covering) but little weight gain.
I just watched a video on masking and painting foam models and not pulling up paint when removing the tape. Will try this on the phantom. It is in the P-39 post. He uses baby powder. You should check it out.
Glad to be of some help after all you guys are doing for me.
Best Regards, Rex

Thanks for that, Rex. For this particular project Hairless Joe, I started with a spare fuselage with no stickers like it would have on it from the factory. So, that's a plus. I will be ordering another full kit that has the motor, gear, and all that stuff. Will use the modified fuse from Jim in California, and probably the wings from the kit. Those might have the stickers on them, so I'd carefully remove them and do the technique you described above.

I love the idea of painting on the decals, rather than stickers. On all my big gasers, I have always done that and it looks much better than the stickers. But I haven't been able to put masks down that don't pull up the paint on the styrofoam. I'll check out F106DD's technique he uses with baby powder. Hadn't heard that one yet.

Your package should arrive ok today, hopefully. Let me know if everything is in working order, and if you need anything else you can think of before finishing the model for the contest.

Cheers

davegee

[jetfool]

Davegee,
Postman should arrive about 1 1/2 hr so I will be waiting in our 7' weather at the end of driveway. Do you think I'm excited?
If you remove the stickers on the wing, I fill the foam with lite-weight spackling. Takes several sanding, filling to get the level you need. My new way is just do the poly sand over the decals and I mask and paint new stars, etc This new way will completely level and cover over and the primer coats will not show the OEM stickers. You will forget they were ever there. Try it on a dollar tree $1 foam board, add some old stickers and give it a try. A lot easier and faster. Just my .02
I have touched the chipped paint from last summer's flying and working on armor glass/frame today. Just need to finish landing gear area and cockpit and I think it will be finished.
Best Regards, Rex

[Grossman56]

Breathless anticipation! Does he still have a full beer!?!?

[jetfool]

Davegee and Grossman56,
The shipping container arrived in excellent condition. The 3d parts will all be used and the pilot, Well unbelievable the similarity of Bob Johnson. Speaking of Bob, I found him in a relaxed prone position. The beer in his hand was 1/2 empty and Bob was in an unconscious position. At the far end I found 5 more empty beer bottles. He must have had a harrowing last flight. After reviving him he was able to get in his cockpit as the mechanics were repairing the battle damage. THAT'S MY STORY!
I can't thank you guys enough.
Best Regards, Rex

[Grossman56]

Glad he arrived in one piece, Dave did a lot of 3D printing, awesome job, Dave! I miss the little guy and tell him his buddies, Douglas, Landers and Johnny say hi and save some of the beer for when they fly again!
Seriously, you never know just how good they look until they're actually sitting the cockpit, like a painting before and after it gets framed!
So now if anyone asks where you got the pilot, you'll recommend D and D inc.

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[davegee]

Great news! I always fear that one of my boxes will be delivered by Ace Ventura, if you’ve seen that Jim Carrey movie. I had a very delicate lunar rover model get virtually destroyed by FedEx going to a museum in New York. I had to reprint a couple of parts and their team is working on getting it all back together for display.

Well, Dan and I were very happy to help out in some small way to enhance your great P-47 and will be keeping our fingers crossed that you do well at the show this spring!

Let me know if you have any questions or need any other parts printed.

Cheers

davegee

[jetfool]

Dan & Dave,
You guys have a good process going and believe you 2 should offer for sale your products. If others out there are watching, I highly recommend Dave and Dan's 3d painted pilots. The detail of the pilot and detail of the 3d add on parts for the P-47 are fantastic. Propellor Cuffs, Gunsight, mirror etc., Spinner beautiful detail.
Bob trying out the seat and floorboard. A pic of the headrest and my headrest before prime & paint


Best Regards, Rex

[jetfool]

Bob checking out the seat and floorboard and my headrest per a real photo

[davegee]

Bob checking out the seat and floorboard and my headrest per a real photo

Looks great, although somehow you're going to have to pry that beer bottle out of the hand of 'ol Bob! HA!

Well done! This is the level of detail we're looking for!

Cheers

Davegee

[jetfool]

I must say Bob has a good grip on the bottle, the fight with the Luftwaffe must have really shaken him.
Today I have been priming, silver paint, int, green paint and making more details.
I added the inner lip on the sliding canopy, still need to add the rubber seal on the front canopy edge. I only had blue 26ga wire so waiting on the black paint to dry before installing.
Made a 5/8" square .010" styrene base, glued control stick to this and added the cloth boot around the bottom. Used a piece of toilet paper to represent the cloth, painted it looks good. Don't believe I need to explain where I thought this idea up. LOL
Many other little details have been done
Best Regards, Rex

[jetfool]

Here are some photos

[Grossman56]

Looks great, although somehow you're going to have to pry that beer bottle out of the hand of 'ol Bob! HA!

Well done! This is the level of detail we're looking for!

Cheers

Davegee

Maybe if you promised to install a bottle holder in the cockpit he'd be more inclined to surrender the bottle. Of course, if this was just after his plane was turned into a sieve by a Luftwaffe pilot but by the grace of God he made it back, who could blame him??

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[davegee]

Here are some photos

looks great, Rex. I like how you made the "boot" at the bottom of the contol stick.

[davegee]

I must say Bob has a good grip on the bottle, the fight with the Luftwaffe must have really shaken him.
Today I have been priming, silver paint, int, green paint and making more details.
I added the inner lip on the sliding canopy, still need to add the rubber seal on the front canopy edge. I only had blue 26ga wire so waiting on the black paint to dry before installing.
Made a 5/8" square .010" styrene base, glued control stick to this and added the cloth boot around the bottom. Used a piece of toilet paper to represent the cloth, painted it looks good. Don't believe I need to explain where I thought this idea up. LOL
Many other little details have been done
Best Regards, Rex

I think if Bob was still with us today, he'd have a chuckle over the beer bottle.