Official FlightLine 1600mm P-51D Mustang Thread

[nuts-n-volts]

Evan, I set mine to ON as from what I remember. And, I logged it it my book. Logged as a V2. Here's the confusing part that I discovered recently. There was a V1 Freewing ESC that also has the feature, yet, looking at its manual, the Freewheeling default on that earlier unit was set to OFF. This newer V2 says to set it ON. I can't help but wonder if the factory got the settings confused, then printed them wrong in the manual? Either way, I turned mine ON and it went away. Here's the rest of the parameters and my settings:
1. Brake Type - Disabled
2. Brake Force - Low
3. Voltage Cutoff Type - Soft
4. # LiPo Cells - Auto
5. Cutoff Voltage - Disabled
6. Start Up Mode - Normal
7. Timing - Medium
8. Active Freewheel - On
9. Search Mode - Off

Now, you have me wondering as one cannot see the current programming in the unit without a display. Or you just do it again... and fly it again to troubleshoot. Crazy.

Not to keep guessing at this, but there is also the brake. I'm sure it should be disabled. But, its possible that units were shipped to customers with it in Low. The V2 manual says the default is low because it is also set to reverse. I say this because when asking Martin at Motion, he mentioned to also check the brake. I did not think mine was the problem, however I still set it to OFF in "Type". So, maybe that is confusing things.

...Just called Motion... could not help with the issue. Sorry, but I gonna have to order a programmer display to be sure.

[Elbee]

davegee.

You can decrease the layer height in Prusa Slicer.

More layers better resolution.

See below.

Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
Dave just sliced off his lower end.
The print is a little rough but doable. Is there any way to increase the resolution?

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

Reply Post by Elbee.

Dan,

1. Post processing FDM prints with acetone works wonders, though some detail can be lost if you go too far.
2. Reduce the layer height in Prusa Slicer
3. Slow the print speed which can also help reduce artifacts in the prints.

I have done all of these things depending on the print and each has it's own effectiveness.

Best, LB

[Davegeee]

Dave just sliced off his lower end.
The print is a little rough but doable. Is there any way to increase the resolution?

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

Hi Dan: I just saw your post on 19 June. I don't know of a way to make the print resolution better. There might be some way to do that, but I don't know how to do that, if it is even possible. Can you make it work as you have it now?? I think it is still probably better than the OEM bust that comes with the kit.

Thanks,

Dave

[Evan D]

OK, I turned active freewheel on and on the bench the motor clunks when giving initial throttle off no throttle. So I then turned off active freewheeling and it's nice and smooth when giving throttle. Does yours do the same?

[nuts-n-volts]

Revisiting the screech. I have a sound system so I never noticed it. But listening for it now I hear it. Just enable freewheeling?

Yes.

[Elbee]

Dave just sliced off his lower end.
The print is a little rough but doable. Is there any way to increase the resolution?

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

Dan,

1. Post processing FDM prints with acetone works wonders, though some detail can be lost if you go too far.
2. Reduce the layer height in Prusa Slicer
3. Slow the print speed which can also help reduce artifacts in the prints.

I have all of these things and each has it's own effectiveness.

Best, LB

[Evan D]

Revisiting the screech. I have a sound system so I never noticed it. But listening for it now I hear it. Just enable freewheeling?

The thing I think was the culprit was a setting call Freewheeling. On old FW V1 ESCs it said to disable it, on the new V2 ESCs, it needs to be enabled, or ON.

[Grossman56]

Dave just sliced off his lower end.
The print is a little rough but doable. Is there any way to increase the resolution?

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[Elbee]

Grossman56,

Thanks, Danger.

I have the P-51 pilot in full figure, just hadn't seen the bust only version.

Diggin' all the extra details.

Best, LB

[Grossman56]

Yes, the Max Grueter bust, the shoulders have been shaved slightly so he is a nice tight fit.
Dave went with a different pilot that I found on CG Trader, he has separate arms and a full body, so he cut him at the waist.
The pilot was originally made for a 1/32 scale Revell P-51 model kit that he enlarged. It's not bad either, I have him in the basement drying after the black coat application.

https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/us-wwii-fighter-pilot

You can check him out here.

Grossman56

(Dangerous Dan)

[Elbee]

Grossman56,

Is that the Max Grueter P-51 pilot bust?

Looks great regardless, Danger.

Best, LB

[jetfool]

Grossman,
Your Pilots are fantastic. Outstanding Craftsmanship. Bob is still on flight status.
Best Regards, Rex

[Grossman56]

DaveGee just got his and we're working on a pilot. The bust I think we'll end up using will be an upsized version of the one I have in the P-51B. He just fits so well.
BTW, the gunsight is my N9 design.


Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[paulrkytek]

Tried the gun sound system up in the air today, just not loud enough with the 2" speaker I installed at the front. Would probably be better with larger air exit holes but not prepared to create those so I have taken it out and will use it in my upscalled Magnatilla/Eindecker when I get around to building it over the next winter

[Hugh Wiedman]

Loving this bird! 27 flights and over 3 and a half hours airborne. Using Hoovo 6S 5200's I'm getting on average around 7:30 with some left in the 'tank' for a go-around. Custom graphics by Callie, going to do some weathering eventually.

Just incorporated gear door droop after motor shut down, flap droop and elevator droop. Nice little scale details.

Sweeeeet! Callie to the rescue! Yippee Ki-Yay

[nickwildman81]

Loving this bird! 27 flights and over 3 and a half hours airborne. Using Hoovo 6S 5200's I'm getting on average around 7:30 with some left in the 'tank' for a go-around. Custom graphics by Callie, going to do some weathering eventually.

Just incorporated gear door droop after motor shut down, flap droop and elevator droop. Nice little scale details.

[GliderGuy]

Thanks guys…all good data/information.
Good precaution about exercising the gear without having a lot of other controls moving about during the gear extend/retract action.

We’ve had a week of strong wind. I’ve been grounded this whole week. UGH!

The wind finally let up this afternoon (06/12)! Got in 10 flights. Began working on getting into the habit of letting the gear complete its cycle alone with minimal other servo action. I can see this is a good habit to develop for any large (large gear servo) and multi-servo bird.

-GG

[nuts-n-volts]

And I do agree with Evan about going bigger. Why not? They are not that much more expensive. Weight is minimal. More power is piece of mind.

[nuts-n-volts]

I just went with the 10A as my feeling was there was something amiss with the BEC in my ESC. Waaay too many Frame Losses. And most Frame Losses are caused by voltage drops. And those are caused by a few servos overloading the circuit. I don't think the internal BEC is a "switched" one either. By going with the external switched BEC, (separate unit), things are much more safer with the FLs only 20 or less.

[Evan D]

7A, does not say if there is a burst or if that is the burst. I assume that is a constant rating and they don’t list a burst but would assume at least 10A.

If you are not trusting the stock ESC and adding a separate BEC I would go bigger, 20A and maybe one with dual output leads.