Official FlightLine 1600mm P-51D Mustang Thread

[paulrkytek]

I am going to try the MW4 sound card and speaker for £22.50p including postage and report back on it

[paulrkytek]

Cosmetic tip….
After many flights, I noticed the fuselage foam at the (pilot right) front of the canopy well was compressed. A gap between the front right side of the canopy assembly and fuselage had formed. Hmmm….

Was I putting the canopy assembly on without checking alignment? Nope.

After paying attention to my battery removal and installation procedure, I found that my fingers were compressing the foam.

To prevent this, install some thin plywood or carbon fiber sheeting layered onto the front side of the canopy well. Fat fingers won’t compress this tough layer! If it is thin enough, the canopy fit isn’t impacted.

After gluing on a thin sheet, I then filled the gap of the compression, sanded and painted the filler.

If you get ahead of this, you will avoid the fill/sand/paint step.

-GG

a thin layer of epoxy may well be a simpler way ?apply with finger wearing nitrile glove

[GliderGuy]

Why not? Keep it thin! Needs only to be a thin, stiff layer that keeps your fingers off the foam.

Balsa will compress, so if you use wood…needs to be a thin aircraft grade plywood.

No harm done it the added material prevents the canopy from seating….sand on it where it is binding.

-GG

[Chillibadger]

Sure…Not pretty, but I had an odd sized piece of thin carbon sheet.

The important side to sheet is the right side. This is where your fingers will compress the foam.

A black Sharpie pen was handy and quick way to paint the rest of the white foam not covered by the sheeting. I intend to redo better with black paint, soon.

-GG

great thanks looks aren't everything. wonder if i could print something with pla. i don't have carbon or balsa sheeting around but a dab hand with my 3d printer

[GliderGuy]

Sure…Not pretty, but I had an odd sized piece of thin carbon sheet.

The important side to sheet is the right side. This is where your fingers will compress the foam.

A black Sharpie pen was handy and quick way to paint the rest of the white foam not covered by the sheeting. I intend to redo better with black paint, soon.

-GG

[Chillibadger]

Cosmetic tip….
After many flights, I noticed the fuselage foam at the (pilot right) front of the canopy well was compressed. A gap between the front right side of the canopy assembly and fuselage had formed. Hmmm….

Was I putting the canopy assembly on without checking alignment? Nope.

After paying attention to my battery removal and installation procedure, I found that my fingers were compressing the foam.

To prevent this, install some thin plywood or carbon fiber sheeting layered onto the front side of the canopy well. Fat fingers won’t compress this tough layer! If it is thin enough, the canopy fit isn’t impacted.

After gluing on a thin sheet, I then filled the gap of the compression, sanded and painted the filler.

If you get ahead of this, you will avoid the fill/sand/paint step.

-GG

could you share a photo of what you did please?

[GliderGuy]

During this weekend of strong wind, I decided to replace the elevator servo with an MKS HV69 servo.

I have done this on all my planes that only have a single servo driving this most critical control. The specs of the HV69 are more to my liking when compared to the stock elevator servo’s specs.

The physical dimensions of the HV69 are VERY close to the stock servo. However, I did have to do a little bit of Dremel work on both the servo case and servo ears as well as a little Dremel work on the fuselage plastic servo holder.

Not much, but I couldn’t get the servo to nest into the fuselage holder without a small amount of plastic trimming Dremel work. Not a big deal, but heads up.

The wire lead on the MKS 69 is not long enough to reach very far into the fuselage. You know the drill…get out the soldering gun or add a socketed extension.

She’s all buttoned back up and ready to test fly.

-GG

[GliderGuy]

Cosmetic tip….
After many flights, I noticed the fuselage foam at the (pilot right) front of the canopy well was compressed. A gap between the front right side of the canopy assembly and fuselage had formed. Hmmm….

Was I putting the canopy assembly on without checking alignment? Nope.

After paying attention to my battery removal and installation procedure, I found that my fingers were compressing the foam.

To prevent this, install some thin plywood or carbon fiber sheeting layered onto the front side of the canopy well. Fat fingers won’t compress this tough layer! If it is thin enough, the canopy fit isn’t impacted.

After gluing on a thin sheet, I then filled the gap of the compression, sanded and painted the filler.

If you get ahead of this, you will avoid the fill/sand/paint step.

-GG

[paulrkytek]

Why not just buy a blue bridge and you have it for this plane and the future. The freewing gyros are as good as the Hobby Eagles. I have 8 HE gyros in my fleet. The freewing is easier to work with. Especially because I have 2 HE gyros that the USB ports wore out. Now they are stuck with their current settings. The USB C plug on the freewing is superior to the USB micro B plug on the HE.

There is no inflight main gain adjustment with this freewing gyro and I do not use mobile apps. A3 super 4 or A3 EVO allows main gain adjustment and on field adjustment by using programme card or dial pots respectively no smart phone required which suits my mindset . I do not fly in 20mph plus winds as I do not enjoy my flying in the wind and cold because I am a born softie !!!! If the Freewing gyro worked as advertised it would have suited my needs but it did not and it is now removed and replaced never to be seen again

[Tygerman42]

Why not just buy a blue bridge and you have it for this plane and the future. The freewing gyros are as good as the Hobby Eagles. I have 8 HE gyros in my fleet. The freewing is easier to work with. Especially because I have 2 HE gyros that the USB ports wore out. Now they are stuck with their current settings. The USB C plug on the freewing is superior to the USB micro B plug on the HE.

[paulrkytek]

I am going to try connecting roll dial switch to the gains slot on the Gyro ( middle slot I think ) but unless it has been activated in an app to enable me to do that it wont work in which case I will probably just Yell at Motion customer services, bin the gyro, remain pissed off for a while and then install the A3 Super4.. dam just checked it, this gyro does not let you adjust gains in flight and the middle slot is for nose wheel steering so it looks like it is the bin option.

[paulrkytek]

I know on mine it does off/ gyro/ self leveling, I wonder if that's what happened.

Gyro Off no light, Gyro on green light, self level green flashing light, I checked operation and colours before I flew it. Also manual states up elevator to flap mix. it balloons if you do this, but flies level at 1/3 throttle if I apply down elevator mix. I have set 1mm down elevator trim which gives me level flight at half throttle if I want level flight at full throttle I just hold a touch of down elevator. c.g 120mm for first flight but right side up with gear down. Subsequent flights moved lipo 10mm further forward ( Turnigy 5000 60c 790gms ). I normally c.g. warbirds upside down with gear up. Manual does not specify which way up or gear up or down to c.g, bearing in mind c.g marks are under wing. no point in having c.g marks under wing unless the c.g relates to under wing balance otherwise it just leads to confusion. Not very good Motion r.c. if you have not flown a Mustang before.

[paulrkytek]

If you have the programmer, you should check what the gains are. They may have been incorrectly set at the factory. Sounds like the AIL gain is too high.

Agreed but I then have to buy a programmer which works on an app and I hate apps. I would rather just bite the bullet and spend £25 on another hobby Eagle A3 super 4 and I already have a programme card( no apps just connect at home or at field ) that I am familiar with. It just pisses me off that I have to do this.

[Evan D]

I know on mine it does off/ gyro/ self leveling, I wonder if that's what happened.

[xviper]

If you have the programmer, you should check what the gains are. They may have been incorrectly set at the factory. Sounds like the AIL gain is too high.

[Evan D]

Mine doesn't. I wonder why yours does.

[paulrkytek]

bought mine with preset gyro but ailerons oscilate in 15mph wind, so much for the setup !!!!! Not happy I should have just stuck to my hobby eagle A3 super4

[xviper]

Got the parts today. The 2 prop adapters are IDENTICAL, so I could have gotten away with just ordering the 1600mm Spitfire motor. I guess I'll have a spare prop adapter.


Continuation of my journey to make an FMS 1700mm/FL 1600 P-51 Mustang hybrid (from post #106) ....................
Here is a couple of pics of all the old parts from the FMS and all the new parts from the F/L P-51. The difference in length of the motor/prop adapter is 4mm (the X mount is 1mm thicker on the F/L), so I'll need to bring the F/L motor forward 4mm. As you can see, the diameters of the 2 prop base plates is minimal, the F/L one being a couple mm smaller, so barely noticeable. The biggest problem I see is in the X mount plate. The outer hole distance across the motor center is quite a bit smaller on the F/L. I'll have to figure out how to make new holes in the face of the FMS motor mount. I may use a 4mm thick ply plate and attach it to the motor mount. That'll also take care of the need for standoffs. (I do love a challenge.)

New data ...................... The F/L motor and X mount needs to be brought forward by 15mm. The FMS prop adapter sits on TOP of the fat part that screws into the motor. Only the small hex part goes inside the base plate. The F/L prop adapter completely fits INSIDE the prop base plate. I will use both X mounts and a 1/2" ply spacer to achieve the required motor placement. The outer holes in the F/L X mount will need to be reamed out slightly so the 2 X mounts can be stacked together.

Got a chance to fly the hybrid P-51 this moring.
The FMS 1700 with the F/L powertrain doesn't look any different than stock except for the nose cone. It even sounds exactly the same. Flight-wise, the climb performance and vertical are much improved. Loops are very easy and without having to dive it first to make sure it gets up and over the top. However, ultimate top speed has only marginally improved, perhaps be a few mph more. So, not a significant, eye popping difference. Nevertheless, the improved "pull" gives a better low end feeling of security. Was it worth it? 50:50. If I didn't already have the 1700 Red Tail, I would have just bought the new Flightline. Anyway, it's a keeper.

[xviper]

Mine certainly doesn’t have unlimited vertical on a 100c 5200 6s.


if I can’t have a scale speed of over Mach 2 I’m not happy 😃😳

What brand of LiPo is it? I've seen load tests on some 100C batteries can barely muster up 30C.

[Merlinfan]

Mine certainly doesn’t have unlimited vertical on a 100c 5200 6s.


if I can’t have a scale speed of over Mach 2 I’m not happy 😃😳