Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

[Wesnc]

Ready to maiden:)

[Shirty]

Awesome. Beautiful job mate. Please get vid. ;)

[JonCM]

my fix for the blue box of fiddlyness:







i used the 80mm a10 quick connects and some very short y connectors. they will just barely stuff into the wings and some glued in plywood strips give enough clearence. everything fits snug. the wings have to be transported in one piece.

some more ply and the mainboard in the fuse with the reciever directly above.

[franky]

Please MRC and Flightline use this improvement of FMS for the mess of wires in your next models, its a multi pin connector. This is from the new FMS Razorback.

[Plastic_Aviator]

my fix for the blue box of fiddlyness:

i used the 80mm a10 quick connects and some very short y connectors. they will just barely stuff into the wings and some glued in plywood strips give enough clearence. everything fits snug. the wings have to be transported in one piece.

some more ply and the mainboard in the fuse with the reciever directly above.

That is a great idea. I wonder if the Tigercat controller will work the same?... Or even the FMS one?

Which connection modual part is that on the actual wing?

[shocktrooper]

I started applying the decals to mine last night and the wing leading edge (yellow) decals all seem to be for the LH wing. Looks as though no one else is having or noticing a problem with theirs. By random chance I started with and completed the LH wing first and when I got to the RH wing...the remaining 2 yellow decals curve away from rather than into the curve in the leading edge, from; flat along the span, to curving aft toward the wingtip. The first two yellow decals I selected were a perfect curve BEFORE I ever pulled them from the sheet...I naturally thought; "Ok, these 2 fit this wing...& the other 2 fit the other wing." Now...my remaining 2 don't fit the "other" wing. All 4 of my yellow decals curve in the same direction at the small end toward the wing tip(s). I see pics posted and the "yellow" decals look perfect...? Anyone out there noticed a problem with their "yellow" wing decals? Maybe I am going crazy here and/or blind too...? ...anyone?

[JonCM]

That is a great idea. I wonder if the Tigercat controller will work the same?... Or even the FMS one?

Which connection modual part is that on the actual wing?

Its the wing connector from freewing 80mm a10 https://www.motionrc.com/collections...nnection-board

there is also a cable and mainboard. Just goto the spare parts page of the freewing 80mm a10.

if you want to transport the wings seperate and still use this connector you will need to cut into the foam a bit.

ive got the fms a10 as well. I prefer the freewing method. The fms a10 connector looks like its going to cause problems eventually

[Beeg]

I started applying the decals to mine last night and the wing leading edge (yellow) decals all seem to be for the LH wing. Looks as though no one else is having or noticing a problem with theirs. By random chance I started with and completed the LH wing first and when I got to the RH wing...the remaining 2 yellow decals curve away from rather than into the curve in the leading edge, from; flat along the span, to curving aft toward the wingtip. The first two yellow decals I selected were a perfect curve BEFORE I ever pulled them from the sheet...I naturally thought; "Ok, these 2 fit this wing...& the other 2 fit the other wing." Now...my remaining 2 don't fit the "other" wing. All 4 of my yellow decals curve in the same direction at the small end toward the wing tip(s). I see pics posted and the "yellow" decals look perfect...? Anyone out there noticed a problem with their "yellow" wing decals? Maybe I am going crazy here and/or blind too...? ...anyone?

If you used two of them for one wing the other two will work for the other wing. Just hold them to the wing, either top or bottom and you will have a BGO.

[barron06]

Franky, The FMS wing connector on the P-47 would pull out of the sockets under light flight loads. The pins only engage a few millimeters and the wing-side connectors, located at the bottom half of the wing root pull out under positive G loads. It was a nerve wracking flight testing experience to find this problem... about 15 flights. Luckily, in all cases the pins re-engaged before I crashed. I simply loosely screwed in the wing side connectors to fix it, thus creating a "floating" flexible connector...so that the connector did not follow the wing under loads. I must say though that am the the ONLY one how had this problem. Some posted issues of the retracts not deploying. Personally, I think it was related to my issue.

[radfordc]

Three more flights today and all is perfect. I reduced the elevator and aileron throws significantly from the values in the book and the plane flys just like a Spitfire should....responsive but also very smooth. I fly for 8 1/2 minutes and land with the battery at storage voltage (3.80 v/cell).

[franky]

Franky, The FMS wing connector on the P-47 would pull out of the sockets under light flight loads. The pins only engage a few millimeters and the wing-side connectors, located at the bottom half of the wing root pull out under positive G loads. It was a nerve wracking flight testing experience to find this problem... about 15 flights. Luckily, in all cases the pins re-engaged before I crashed. I simply loosely screwed in the wing side connectors to fix it, thus creating a "floating" flexible connector...so that the connector did not follow the wing under loads. I must say though that am the the ONLY one how had this problem. Some posted issues of the retracts not deploying. Personally, I think it was related to my issue.

Barron, i had no idea about G loads at the bottom of the wing, the pin connection is probably efficient with a sideway wing connection, thank you for the info.

[radfordc]

After I reduced the elevator throw for good flying characteristics I noticed that the plane did want to nose over a little easier on grass while taxiing. I will program high rate elevator with lots of throw for taxiing only and use middle and low rates for flying.

[MichaelJ]

1600 Flightline Grey Nurse

[xviper]

After I reduced the elevator throw for good flying characteristics I noticed that the plane did want to nose over a little easier on grass while taxiing. I will program high rate elevator with lots of throw for taxiing only and use middle and low rates for flying.

I use as high a rate as I can program for elevator for ground operations. It's easy enough to flip the switch when flying. I do this for every tail dragger I have.

[Starck Mad]

I use as high a rate as I can program for elevator for ground operations. It's easy enough to flip the switch when flying. I do this for every tail dragger I have.

The easiest way to do this is to simply assign the rates to the gear switch...when the gear is down you're slow and you have the higher rate for a nice flare and taxiing, and when the gear is retracted the "flying rates" are automatic. You always use the gear switch so now you don't have to remember to flip another switch.

[radfordc]

The easiest way to do this is to simply assign the rates to the gear switch...when the gear is down you're slow and you have the higher rate for a nice flare and taxiing, and when the gear is retracted the "flying rates" are automatic. You always use the gear switch so now you don't have to remember to flip another switch.

No, I don't want that at all. I use low rate elevator for landing. I have a little up elevator mixed with flaps so that the plane just barely drops the nose when the flaps and gear are down. Fly the approach with a little bit of power and touch down smoothly on the main gear. An overly sensitive elevator makes all this much harder.

[xviper]

No, I don't want that at all. I use low rate elevator for landing. I have a little up elevator mixed with flaps so that the plane just barely drops the nose when the flaps and gear are down. Fly the approach with a little bit of power and touch down smoothly on the main gear. An overly sensitive elevator makes all this much harder.

I agree. High rates on the elevator when trying to land .................................. "Splash ONE!"

[Shirty]

Respectfully, I disagree. It could be just me, but I ALWAYS dial in as much throw as I can get on the elevator. (And the rudder for that matter). Doesn't matter the type of plane. Not saying this is best, (far from it, and I don't recommend it, especially if you're newish to the hobby) - just that it's my personal preference for how I like to fly.

Like power, I like it on tap if I need (or want), it.

I guess it's just because I fly 3D more than anything, (I'm never at the field without a 3D bird), so these tiny warbirds throws always feel like nothing in comparison to me. In fact, only throw I've ever not maxed is the ailerons on the avanti. (That rolls quicker than any of my 3D planes with crazy big throws for rifle rolls etc). What I'm saying is your throws should match what works best for you and the airframe in question, and you can only find that out by experimenting and flight testing. It usually takes me at least 6-7 flights to dial in a plane to where I like it. (Sometimes more).

Point being, don't be afraid to experiment and find what works best for you. It's very rare there's a right or wrong when it comes to the size of your throws (as long as they are equal and set up properly obviously lol). One mans crazy rate might be another mans boring rate. It's a matter of flying style and personal preference imho. Having said that, I wouldn't let any of my students who are just learning land on high rates. Lower throw means less responsive at times such as landing, which is great for new pilots

anyway, just saying I don't think there's a right or wrong with the size of your throws, it's up to the pilot and what he/she enjoys most. Having full throws has never caused me to dump a plane on landing or takeoff.

Just my 2 cents...

I land my extra with this much elevator in both directions, no issues. Just gotta ride the sticks. ;)

[rifleman_btx]

Guess it's just me, but I ALWAYS dial in as much throw as I can get on the elevator. (And the rudder for that matter). Doesn't matter the type of plane. Not saying this is best, (far from it, and I don't recommend it, especially if you're newish to the hobby) - just that it's my personal preference for how I like to fly.

Like power, I like it on tap if I need (or want), it.

I guess it's just because I fly 3D more than anything, (I'm never at the field without a 3D bird), so these tiny warbirds throws always feel like nothing in comparison to me. In fact, only throw I've ever not maxed is the ailerons on the avanti. (That rolls quicker than any of my 3D planes with crazy big throws for rifle rolls etc). What I'm saying is your throws should match watch works best for you and the airframe in question, and you can only find that out by experimenting and flight testing. It usually takes me at least 6-7 flights to dial in a plane to where I like it. (Sometimes more).

Point being, don't be afraid to experiment and find what works best for you. It's very rare there's a right or wrong when it comes to the size of your throws (as long as they are equal and set up properly obviously lol). One mans crazy rate might be another mans boring rate. It's a matter of flying style and personal preference imho.

Just my 2 cents... ;)

Yup my rates are controlled by my thumbs. 100%+ for me then I feel my way for the rest.

[Shirty]

Lol, that's just my long-winded way of saying I don't necessarily agree that large throws means you'll automatically splash it at landing. Find what YOU like and have the most fun/success with. No offense viper buddy. ;)