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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

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  • Been out flying all day (but unfortunately, not my Spitty). My gear pull-out looks almost identical to Aros'. I've used Gorilla Glue in the past for plastic-to-foam repairs (I like Foam Tac for foam-to-foam).

    One note of caution when gluing the gear box back into the gear well- remove the motor/trunion before gluing the plastic housing back in place. On my F-86, I was making this repair and left the trunion in the plastic housing. Some glue then seeped in between the plastic housing and the motor/trunion box, bonding it to the plastic. When I later needed to remove the motor/trunion box, it wouldn't budge after I'd removed the fasteners. I finally had to drizzle some acetone onto the trunion housing, to soften up the glue enough to pry the trunion box free. Doh!

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    Warbirder

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    • Well Oxotnik, I was a casualty of that. I went to cycle my gear and the one I epoxied was glued open and would not cycle. DOH!!! :Loser:

      So I spent the flight with the gear down/dirty to practice more landings. Not looking forward to trying to get it working again after my epoxy douche job. :Dizzy:

      My YouTube RC videos:
      https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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      • Nice vid mate. Spitty looks awesome. :)

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        • I wonder if the gear issue will be addressed on the next batch of Spitfires.

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          • Aros, I think that you're in for trouble since you used epoxy. One another gear rebond, I had some GG expand into the motor/trunion box. It got into the gears. I had to pull the guts out and pick all of the glue out of the gear teeth. Once that had been completed, the motor/gears worked just fine. I'm afraid that with the epoxy, you may into a new motor/trunion unit. :Confused:
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            Warbirder

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            • Originally posted by TonyGagJr View Post
              I wonder if the gear issue will be addressed on the next batch of Spitfires.
              Every foamy that I've bought has had a crappy bond of plastic to foam. Every gear box has pulled out of the gear well, often on easy landings even, such as what Aros had described. On my Spitty, I'd set it down a little hard, but it shouldn't have been hard enough to knock the gear out. On my F-86, second landing (and it was a good landing on a grass field), and the gear pulled out.
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              Warbirder

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              • Originally posted by Oxotnik View Post
                Aros, I think that you're in for trouble since you used epoxy. One another gear rebond, I had some GG expand into the motor/trunion box. It got into the gears. I had to pull the guts out and pick all of the glue out of the gear teeth. Once that had been completed, the motor/gears worked just fine. I'm afraid that with the epoxy, you may into a new motor/trunion unit. :Confused:
                I think you're absolutely right. Should have listened to the advice on the Foam-Tac. Sigh.
                My YouTube RC videos:
                https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                • 3rd week in a row.... :(

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                  • Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View Post

                    I think you're absolutely right. Should have listened to the advice on the Foam-Tac. Sigh.
                    Just put a little piece of tape over the holes that lead into the main gear mechanism. Epoxy rules! :Cool:

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                    • Originally posted by Shirty View Post
                      3rd week in a row.... :(

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                      Ah! Winter in Oz!

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                      • Originally posted by TonyGagJr View Post
                        I wonder if the gear issue will be addressed on the next batch of Spitfires.
                        If your a gambler.....place your bet on the NO. Every manufacturer including FL has had issues with inadequate glue usage on the e-tract plastic pockets.
                        There are individuals doing the glue, not robotics applications so the quantity/spread consistency of gluing is a variable from one operator to the next.
                        I learned over the years that continuous turf duty will eventually weaken that sappy/rubbery glue they use and a retract will pullout........some sooner :Scared:and some later :Thinking: and some maybe never. :Whew:
                        As a matter of principle anymore I inject the translucent white ( 1 hour cure) Gorilla down into the sides of these foam pockets at the plastic edges.
                        The Gorilla will seep into the nooks and crannies of the foam and voids left by crappy glue application and firm everything with no more issues.
                        Here's the dispenser I use:;)
                        https://www.amazon.com/QTY-100-Dispe...ispensing+tips
                        These dispensers slip neatly on the tip of the Gorilla nozzle. I make sure it stays put with a little wrap of 1" wide masking tape on the tip/needle joint.
                        Warbird Charlie
                        HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

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                        • Originally posted by Shirty View Post
                          3rd week in a row.... :(

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                          Cool...send some of that my way...we need it
                          Brandon Moon

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                          • Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View Post
                            Just got back from a flight cut short from one of the retract housings popping out on landing. Was a nice greaser, roll out looked fine and then suddenly it tipped on a wing. Something to look out for. I am going to epoxy the housing to make sure that doesn't happen again.

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                            Damn, that's a bummer.........especially with a greaser! Hope your back in the air soon. Hey I've got a question regarding the yellow leading edge decals. It looks like they're split in half. Which side, top or bottom, gets the wider part and how much overlap should they have or just be butted? Brad

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                            • I lined up the bottom one (narrow) with the leading edge then just barely overlapped the top one to cover the edge.

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                              • Started the build..




                                The home hangar seems to breed!!

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                                • Originally posted by Shirty View Post
                                  3rd week in a row.... :(

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                                  Man, you weren't kidding about that rain LOL. Wow!

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                                  • Hey guys,

                                    Is there anything I need to be aware of when applying the lettering decals to the Spitfire? The roundels applied very nicely to the aircraft but I am having a problem with the lettering (primarily the "A") adhering. I got up this morning and the "A" had dropped off during the night. I just ordered the same decal scheme from Callie Graphics (not sure if they are making the ones that come with the aircraft) to see if they adhere any better. I did wet the surface of the foam before applying any of the decals. I suppose I can add a light/diluted coating of aliphatic resin glue (e.g. titebond) to the letter and apply...but just wondering if I am doing something wrong. Thanks for any guidance!

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                                    • Originally posted by guylookingup View Post
                                      Hey guys,

                                      Is there anything I need to be aware of when applying the lettering decals to the Spitfire? The roundels applied very nicely to the aircraft but I am having a problem with the lettering (primarily the "A") adhering. I got up this morning and the "A" had dropped off during the night. I just ordered the same decal scheme from Callie Graphics (not sure if they are making the ones that come with the aircraft) to see if they adhere any better. I did wet the surface of the foam before applying any of the decals. I suppose I can add a light/diluted coating of aliphatic resin glue (e.g. titebond) to the letter and apply...but just wondering if I am doing something wrong. Thanks for any guidance!
                                      I don't have this plane, so hopefully someone who does can clarify what types of decals it comes with for specific parts of the plane. If the "A" happened to be self-adhesive vinyl, and you used water to stick it to the surface, then that may be why it didn't stay adhered to the plane. The vinyl decals would be applied with no water, liquid, heat, etc., just simply pressed lightly onto the plane.

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                                      • Pilots, I maidened my FL Spit Mark IV yesterday +(9)...no issues and an excellent flyer even in 10-15mph cross winds!!! Back at the hangar during pre-rack storage inspections I noticed both rudder and elevator control rods were possibly hitting the electrical connector junction box .......suggest snipping off the excess control rods when you get a chance!!

                                        TwistedGrin

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                                        • Sad to read the pilots lose their landing gears. Because the wings are 2 halves, the manufacturer can put a piece of plastic (square eg. 3 inch.) between the 2 halves and with 2 or 3 screws attach the
                                          outside plate of the gear. to the inner plate. I have done did before with the same kind of wing and gears. It will hold the landings.
                                          Because the wings are now glued-in (the 2 halves), i don't want to pull them from each other to do this procedure. I'm intending to inject with a needle ultra thin foam safe CA under the plate.
                                          Hoping this will give some strenght.

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