Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

[Alpha]

Thanks for the input, Elbee, I'll take that into consideration.

As a quick tip to visually identify color of Freewing's DayBright-type LEDs (the white base with clear bulb style used most often on our recent models' wingtip lights since 2015) without having to power them on, just look at the emitter. If the emitter has a yellowish tint to it, then it's a white LED. If the emitter has a small brownish dot in the center, it's a red LED. If the emitter appears pure white, it's a green LED.

All of Freewing's DayBright-type LEDs are intended to be run off of 4v-5V (such as the 5V rails in the recent MFCB, or past iterations of the Blue Box).

[Elbee]

Thanks for the input, Elbee, I'll take that into consideration.

As a quick tip to visually identify color of Freewing's DayBright-type LEDs (the white base with clear bulb style used most often on our recent models' wingtip lights since 2015) without having to power them on, just look at the emitter. If the emitter has a yellowish tint to it, then it's a white LED. If the emitter has a small brownish dot in the center, it's a red LED. If the emitter appears pure white, it's a green LED.

All of Freewing's DayBright-type LEDs are intended to be run off of 4v-5V (such as the 5V rails in the recent MFCB, or past iterations of the Blue Box).

Alpha, Q: Should a 4.8v RX pack 'pop' the Red LED? I understand I blew it (LOL) but why? My little brain is on fire here. Best, LB

ps: I rcvd the Seafire Graphics from the lovely and talented Callie this morning and these are "Outstanding"...

[Alpha]

Hey Elbee, LEDs are sensitive to voltage and amps. Your 4.8v pack was within the LED's voltage preference, but the amps... probably way more than the LED could take. Directly powering an LED without a resistor or resisting circuit is typically a recipie for magic smoke. Another factor is binning, but we won't get into that because in the context of Freewing's LEDs, they're all binned and matched.

Red/amber LEDs in general have a lower forward voltage than white/green/blue LEDs. In Freewing aircraft, we overdrive them for higher brightness without passing the overheating line. Cutting an LED's lifetime in half from 100,000 hours isn't a huge concern in a foam RC model. Nevertheless, too much current, too much voltage, too much heat, or a combination of all three can kill an LED within seconds.

If you ever do want to run an LED safely off a rx battery or similar, Google "LED resistor calculator" to determine the rating of resistor you'll need. Enter 3v for red if you want to be extra safe, otherwise I use 5v for all of Freewing's red/green/white LEDs. Start at 25mA of current, then work your way up. The 1W LEDs mounted on stars (Landing lights on 90mm jets such as F-14, F-15, F-16) are run at 350mA. The star pad dissipates heat much more effectively than the unmounted LEDs used for example in the wingtips.

[Elbee]

Alpha, Yeah, kinda figured that. 600mah pack wired through my servo tester. Not the smartest thing I did yesterday. Best, LB

[Hardway]

I did it too, and I used to be an electronics technical trainer... Doh…. Just grabbed the light and plugged it in and immediately tried to pull it back out, but not fast enough..... Poof.... Oh well!!! LOL

[Alpha]

D'oh! We've all done it at some point, guys, it's only natural. Better to pop an LED because of the wrong connection than a 12s lipo.... ask me how I know.

[MesRcPilot]

Firstly the apology, because I suddenly fell into your technical discussion.Today, I am officially joining the colony of FL Spitfire 1600 fans, namely, yesterday from EU store in Austria was delivered my one . I have little advantage in knowledge because , thanks to everyone in the forum, I learned a lot of about weaknesses , but also of the qualities of this model, for me, the most a challenging foamy RC model ... ever ... I will start assembling over the Winter ,and it will be a pleasure because, as a former military airman, I'm ready for everything or almost everything....;)

[t01ga]

T01GA, Yeppers, I would like to see MotionRC label the lights by color and voltage, however. They could also design a single page Generic PDF Sheet including descriptions of ALL their light types with a picture of each, voltage, color etcetera and not worry about Aircraft Type. But I would also like to know what "Foil" is before anyone else. LOLSo there you have it. Best, LB

Thanks buddy, you have been most helpful. Order placed with MRC!!!

[Elbee]

Firstly the apology, because I suddenly fell into your technical discussion.Today, I am officially joining the colony of FL Spitfire 1600 fans, namely, yesterday from EU store in Austria was delivered my one . I have little advantage in knowledge because , thanks to everyone in the forum, I learned a lot of about weaknesses , but also of the qualities of this model, for me, the most a challenging foamy RC model ... ever ... I will start assembling over the Winter ,and it will be a pleasure because, as a former military airman, I'm ready for everything or almost everything....;)

Welcome once again, MesRcPilot.This is a beautiful rendition of the Spitfire. Thank you for your military service. Tally Ho! Best, LB

[Gunner28]

Anyone using one of these in the Spitty? I’ve used AS3x and Aura 8’s in various and sundrey foamies, balsa electric, glow and gassers. Wanted to try something less expensive and simple instead of using iPhone or laptop to setup.

https://www.motionrc.com/products/ad...xis-stabilizer

[Hardway]

I have an A3-L in the Spitfire. Almost every plane I own has an A3-L, but I do have three (3) A3 with the recovery feature. It almost works.... Not very well at low altitudes... :Scared: I also have six (6) of the Freewing gyros and they are nice!!! They just don't work with the Spektrum telemetry receivers.... :( But the older 7000/8000/9000 are fine.... Total of 93 planes, so the A3-L is the go-to for me.... :Cool::Cool::Cool: No experience at all with the Admiral products..... :Confused: Meaning the receivers/gyros. The batteries are top notch!!!!

[Elbee]

Hey Elbee, LEDs are sensitive to voltage and amps. Your 4.8v pack was within the LED's voltage preference, but the amps... probably way more than the LED could take. Directly powering an LED without a resistor or resisting circuit is typically a recipie for magic smoke. Another factor is binning, but we won't get into that because in the context of Freewing's LEDs, they're all binned and matched.
Red/amber LEDs in general have a lower forward voltage than white/green/blue LEDs. In Freewing aircraft, we overdrive them for higher brightness without passing the overheating line. Cutting an LED's lifetime in half from 100,000 hours isn't a huge concern in a foam RC model. Nevertheless, too much current, too much voltage, too much heat, or a combination of all three can kill an LED within seconds.
If you ever do want to run an LED safely off an RX battery or similar, Google "LED resistor calculator" to determine the rating of resistor you'll need. Enter 3v for red if you want to be extra safe, otherwise I use 5v for all of Freewing's red/green/white LEDs. Start at 25mA of current, then work your way up. The 1W LEDs mounted on stars (Landing lights on 90mm jets such as F-14, F-15, F-16) are run at 350mA. The star pad dissipates heat much more effectively than the unmounted LEDs used for example in the wingtips.

Alpha, Just an update, I replaced the 'Red Tip' Light with a Brite 2.0-2.2v Red LED (Looks exactly like the two I popped). Plugged in the Rc pack to my servo tester only THIS time I plugged it into the Spitty's "Blue Box" and then the tip light into that. Well, It works swell that way, LOL which is I presume the way you designed it. So, there you have it. Best, :Loser: LB

[Alpha]

Sounds good, Elbee. You're right, that's how I designed it. The input voltage of the "blue box" is up to 6.0V, which is then stepped down to power (volts and amps) the LED ports safely without blowing them up. So now you're good to go!

[BrandonTW82]

If I use my a3 pro on my spit, do I initialize it with it's natural state or level the tail?

[Elbee]

Hey Y'all, There was some discussion in this thread, I believe, about Motor Torque Roll and those effects on Take-off and low to high-speed transitions at low altitude. What was the general consensus about that? I am considering building a 3DP backplate with 2^o of down and 2^o of right into the design as I had done on my Pica .61cc 64" Spitfire. Am I on the correct path here? Best, LB

[Hardway]

If I use my a3 pro on my spit, do I initialize it with it's natural state or level the tail?

I have no experience with the Pro, but with the A3 with self recovery, you want the centerline (Datum) of the fuselage level with the ground or horizon... So get her as level as you can. Plug in the battery, and then do not touch it until after the gyro initializes... With the A3-L, just sitting on the wheels seems to work fine with tail draggers or tricycle gear...

[Grossman56]

If I use my a3 pro on my spit, do I initialize it with it's natural state or level the tail?

I just finished setting one up for a buddy of mine. I don't really think its necessary, but I did it just as the manual said to. Once it was all set, it flew great. 'm not quite sure why you have to go through that particular stage, as the A3L and the A3 didn't require it.

Grossman56

[Elbee]

Hey Y'all, Need some help here. I am trying a different painting technique called 'Black Basing'. I have primed in black and I am now shooting several layers of color for the Seafire. I cannot tell anymore whether I am getting a 'distressed look' or whether I am just painting the darn thing very slowly. I have shot the paint dark to light in shades, but this looks like there is just too much pigment and I am not accomplishing and weathering. I will paint one last coat of almost white thinned the same 50% thinner & 30% Flotrol to 20% paint. Pressure is 20-25psi with a dbl-action airbrush. Any ideas or should I simply weather it after all is painted? Humbly, LB

[Elbee]

Color Codes:

Picture of Home Depot Color Codes for RAF Sky Type S (Under) and RAF Ocean Gray (Upper) Seafire Variant typed from Tamiya XF-21: Sky and Tamiya XF-82: Ocean Gray 2.

[Hardway]

I like it...…. carry on! :Cool: And sure, after you are done, buff it with something.... 0000 steel wool works great, but will stick to ANYTHING metal or magnetic... 1200 grit Wet Dry works... Anyway, buff it lightly in the airflow direction, then do a little more panel line highlights and chipping... :Cool: