Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

[2FewDaysAtFlyingField]

You could always get a spare from RC-castle within a week or two?

http://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=6944

http://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?r...roduct_id=6945

Actually I need the prop shaft which was not on RC-Castles website either. Just gives me more time to do my MODS. :)

[ryramZ]

Hey all, i need help, as i was putting the propeller assembly on the motor shaft. I found that that the propeller fixing bolt was incredibly tight, i kept turning it until it no longer moved at all, which didn't make it to the end. I then tried to unscrew it to examine it but found it stripped the rings and now it doesn't go back and forth at all, it just wiggles around! It won't come off at all, no matter how much pressure i apply! The propeller blade screws also got too tight to screw in all the way.

Now i'm thinking i have to get a new motor shaft and propeller fixing bolt

Are the blades facing the right way?

[aring32]

Hi Ryan, the blades were facing the right way, they had a special tab that indicated which way was up. But ill be spending all afternoon dissembling Spitty number 1. Thanks for welcoming me on hobbysquak gents.

Motionrc has awesome customer support and i will always buy my airplanes from them when they are available.

[downwindleg]

When I chatted with Motion about getting a new propeller/motor shaft for mine to replace my stripped out one they said that there is another container coming in 4 weeks and the compliment of the parts would most likely be on there. So don't strike a prop until next month or you'll be parked in the Hanger like me until then!

Just ordered new pushrod set and other miscellaneous parts for other planes but checked on spare props for the Spitfire and they are in stock so I ordered a set just to have some spares. Apparently they are mislabeled as 17 inch rather than 16 inch according to Martin at MRC but they are the correct blades so maybe that's why they showed out of stock. Brad

[dkalwishky]

I'd think they have to be unless he used a hammer to get them into the back plate. That little pin on the back plate goes into a small hole in the prop blade, no way to get it wrong unless you beat the crap out of it. :Scared:

[2FewDaysAtFlyingField]

Nice pics fellas. Who's going to be first to do some invasion stripes?

Got her masked and put the first coat of white on her last night!

[2FewDaysAtFlyingField]

Hey Downwind. I have spare spinner and blades already delivered from Motion. What I need is a Motor Shaft. Those are 4 weeks out.

[Aros]

Got her masked and put the first coat of white on her last night!

Rats! I was hoping to be the first. LOL LOL

[TiredIronGRB]

Welp, contacted Motionrc and agreed to un-assemble it and ship her back to motionrc in swap for a brand new 1600mm spitfire. Let another waiting game commence!

You won't have to wait long

[paladin]

Anybody else having issues with the "blue box"? I hooked everything up like the manual said and neither gear and flaps and aileron on right side wouldn't work. Also, the lights are labeled wrong in the manual, the steady on lights are on the left side and the flashers are on the left side.
So, I "Y" connected gear, flaps and ailerons and everything works accept the lights don't work now as there's no power to the blue box.

I may has to fiddle with hooking things up to the box one at a time and see what is what. Maybe the gear are supposed to be in "gear door"? I remember on the 90mm F-104 the "green board" was mis programmed and it took awhile to figure out what was what.

our club have had 2 crashes this year from the blue box, last one was yesterday, some blow torch. but I have herd a lot of things to give me pause on these fancy 'Y' connector boxes. my plane will get "y" harnesses for A, F, and Ret. the blue box will get plugged into a unused bay on the RX (or a "y" off the rudder or Throttle) just to power it for the lights.

Joe

[Aros]

Here's a bummer, trying to get the Spit together tonight and realized that one of the two pushrods to the elevator/rudder is too short. And before anyone dogpiles me to say I have them reversed, I've tried them both ways. ONE OF THEM IS TOO SHORT!!!! Thank god you can still fish the pushrods. through from the tail forward after having glued the fuse together after all the talk about making sure to feed them into the tubes before joining. In order to fly it this weekend I'm either going to have to solder another piece on to the existing wire or find a new longer wire and ditch the ball connector and bend an "L" on the end with the plastic clip on clevis. Any other ideas? Brad

Brad, for the rudder, there is an extra pushrod that goes from the tailwheel horn to the rudder horn. That's the extended piece. The pushrod fits from the tail wheel to the servo. It's confusing until you look at the pushrods and see there is one that is a bit longer than the flap pushrods.

[Beeg]

WARNING : Propeller Nut Binding

OK, thought the assembly was going marvelous until I tried installing the propeller assembly. Before I actually tried installing the prop assembly onto the motor I tested the main prop nut on the shaft to make sure there were no binding or threading issues. They went on smoothly by themselves.
When installing the prop hub, at about the half way point the prop nut was getting pretty stiff and I thought I'd better back it off to see what the problem was. I could feel a little gritty chatter backing the nut off. After inspecting the shaft and looking in the prop nut the threads appeared OK.
Looking further at the parts, I noticed there where curls of shaved plastic on the inside of the prop hub like they were scraped and pushed forward. I then looked at the propeller shaft and noticed the locking ridge that has the 4 bolts that bolt to the motor had a very sharp edge and that is what was plowing the plastic. I'm pretty sure this is probably what was causing the resistance to installing the main prop nut.
So, I took a file and lightly chamfered the edge, just a little to knock off the sharp edge. Thinking I was good to go I tried re-installing the prop assembly but only got about 3/4 of the way on when the prop nut started getting really tight again. I then started to back it off and got about 4 threads out when it seized going out. I can move it a couple turns on and off but will probably tear out the threads to get it all the way off.
I spoke to Wayne at MotionRC and he's going to see what he can do to get parts in more quickly. Those guys are the best!
Fortunately I have second Spitfire for my "project" that I can scavenge parts to get one going until the extra parts arrive.

This is a word of caution for those that haven't yet assembled their new Spitfires. If you get any significant resistance putting your main prop nut on stop! Don't dork up or seize your threads! Maybe put some teflon thread lube on and a lock washer before installing.

Pictures:

[dkalwishky]

Here's a bummer, trying to get the Spit together tonight and realized that one of the two pushrods to the elevator/rudder is too short. And before anyone dogpiles me to say I have them reversed, I've tried them both ways. ONE OF THEM IS TOO SHORT!!!! Thank god you can still fish the pushrods. through from the tail forward after having glued the fuse together after all the talk about making sure to feed them into the tubes before joining. In order to fly it this weekend I'm either going to have to solder another piece on to the existing wire or find a new longer wire and ditch the ball connector and bend an "L" on the end with the plastic clip on clevis. Any other ideas? Brad

Brad, as Aros mentioned there is a push rod that goes from the tail wheel to the rudder, perhaps you used the wrong one there.

Here is the relevant part of the build overview video that shows this.

https://youtu.be/N6A3y3jZLiU?t=3m7s

[dkalwishky]

WARNING : Propeller Nut Binding


This is a word of caution for those that haven't yet assembled their new Spitfires. If you get any significant resistance putting your main prop nut on stop! Don't dork up or seize your threads! Maybe put some teflon thread lube on before installing.

Thanks for the post and pictures. I plan on mounting my prop tonight so I'll be on the lookout for this problem.

[Beeg]

WARNING : Propeller Nut Binding

Had to get the nut off. Bent an allen wrench so had to take a vise grips. As expected snapped it right off.
In the photo of the hub, after I got it off for the second time, you can now clearly see the plastic was still damming up from the edge of the shaft shoulder. You can see the dark line is as far as it got onto the shaft.

Now, the problem is getting the 4 screws out to take the shaft off. Those puppies are tight! Think I already stripped one but will resharpen my allen wrench, apply some heat and have another go at it. Hate to think I'll need a whole motor assembly with shaft.

[starcop]

Hi Ryan, the blades were facing the right way, they had a special tab that indicated which way was up. But ill be spending all afternoon dissembling Spitty number 1. Thanks for welcoming me on hobbysquak gents.

Motionrc has awesome customer support and i will always buy my airplanes from them when they are available.

Welcome, We always enjoy new member to our ever growing friendships base! It's very cool to have people who love the RC hobby. You'll hopefully find it even more rewarding to help others, the older folks getting into the hobby are super fun. I enjoy people getting outdoors to enjoy these things. Cheers! Matt

[TiredIronGRB]

On the prop nuts be sure to check for shavings, mine had one and had to dig it out with a pick...this is probably what caused the others issues with the nut sticking.

[dkalwishky]

Shavings in the nut itself?

[Beeg]

After taking the blades off I inspected the hub a little closer. I numbered each side for reference. If you look at each photo there is a stress point/crack forming just off center on each side. Looking on the inside, you can see there is a dark line directly behind where each stress point is forming.
So, either the motor shaft is machined too large, or more likely the plastic hub was ejected from it's mold too soon without proper cooling and the inside dimension shrunk. I'm betting it's the prop hub is misshaped or too small where it fits on the shaft shoulders.

I'm wondering now if the tightening the blade screws had something to do with it. Maybe the hub should be installed on the shaft before attaching the propeller blades?

[TiredIronGRB]

Shavings in the nut itself?

Yes sir...