Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread

[Grossman56]

I'm trying for some kind of realistic pilot for the Spitty rather than the stock Freewing guy. I have some Aces of Iron pilots in my P-40 and P-51D and they look so much better!
Good idea for the sweater, I was thinking of some altering with putty as well.

Grossman56

[Mad Baron]

Well I finally got my landing lights working with the landing gear. I ordered a electronic switch from HK and used a servo reverser as well to get the lights to work.

[rifleman_btx]

Good times! Glad to hear it's working like it should :)

[capecoral]

unidentified parts Almost complete but have 8 hard plastic rings 5/8 od 5/16 id 1/8 thk and they are black. I ave no idea where they go?? any help

[CFIT rob]

They are for the props. They go on each side of the prop before assembly to the prop shaft. Four spares come with it for the spare props. They are shown in the motion build video. Be carefull with flying it in cold weather(below 50f ), the retracts will fail. If you havent, go through this thread for possible trouble spots before flight. I love mine, it a great flyer and looks really cool on a show pass.

[fhhuber]

Spacer/alignment rings to keep the props centered on the motor shaft. Very important.

[xviper]

They are for the props. They go on each side of the prop before assembly to the prop shaft. Four spares come with it for the spare props. They are shown in the motion build video. Be carefull with flying it in cold weather(below 50f ), the retracts will fail. If you havent, go through this thread for possible trouble spots before flight. I love mine, it a great flyer and looks really cool on a show pass.

I had this same question when I first got mine. The guys here clued me in and helped me complete the plane.
I flew mine again yesterday. It was several degrees below freezing and my replacement retracts worked flawlessly. Until Dynam gets better retracts (ones that don't quit when it gets too cool outside), I'll only buy their planes with the express knowledge that the retracts WILL be replaced.
Now that I've figured out how to fly this thing, it's a joy to fly. Lands beautifully. By "figured out", I primarily mean knowing where to keep the throttle during the flight. Near full throttle is needed when doing any kind of banking turn. Same goes for when trying to climb aggressively. Loops must be planned with full throttle going into a shallow dive and maintaining a nice, smooth, not too tight, circle. Don't yank on the ELE too suddenly or too aggressively or it will do this funny roll near the top (it stalls easily). However, if you fly it "scale", like you would the real thing, none of this matters. Shallow banks in large turns can be done at lower throttle without a problem. Have lots of altitude in the beginning when experimenting with this plane.

[capecoral]

WOW thanks fro the great help and advise. looked like they would sit inside the props but great help

[themudduck]

WOW thanks for the great help and advise. looked like they would sit inside the props but great help

I'd suggest that you read through the earlier pages of this thread.... start with post 308 and then go through the next 20 pages or so. And if you find THAT interesting then keep going!
No seriously, there are a couple of issues with this plane that need to be addressed. Once those are taken care of, this model flies very nicely.

[rifleman_btx]

Yes! Please do this, don't have a maiden flight end up like mine and need almost a whole new airframe before you have a chance to enjoy the bird. Also cg to 65mm

[capecoral]

First what do you do with the Hugh bundle of wires. I am thinking of putting in a shelf wire on bottom batt on top???
read a ton of stuff and printed out severl sheets that sort of list the items
did elevate the stab 3mm
checked and found 3 loose linkages
to me wheels not an issue
relocated magnet in top hatch
worked all foam hinges
checked rudder trow not hitting elev
set trows to ones in IM elev not over 1/2"
removed wing and checked for snagged wires.
AT 60MM and 2 4c 2600 she is pretty nose heavy. so that my issues for today think i hit the critical ones from what i have
set expo to 40% high 30 MED 20 low all surfaces

[themudduck]

First what do you do with the Hugh bundle of wires. I am thinking of putting in a shelf wire on bottom batt on top???
read a ton of stuff and printed out severl sheets that sort of list the items
did elevate the stab 3mm
checked and found 3 loose linkages
to me wheels not an issue
relocated magnet in top hatch
worked all foam hinges
checked rudder throw not hitting elev
set throws to ones in IM elev not over 1/2"
removed wing and checked for snagged wires.
AT 60MM and 2 4c 2600 she is pretty nose heavy. so that my issues for today think i hit the critical ones from what i have
set expo to 40% high 30 MED 20 low all surfaces

You may need a little "Up" trim to start . By the way, use "some" flap for takeoff and full flaps for landing, every time. All the points you mentioned sound real good, you nailed it.

After a lot of flight testing, I found that 65mm was too far back, I ended up around 57-58mm (gear down). But as you can tell from the thread, there are several opinions about where the CG should be.

For the wires - I used small-size zip ties and compressed the rats-nest of wires into a neat & tidy bundle. I've never touched it since the first flight.

[Mad Baron]

This is how I tamed the rats nest of wires. In the first pic I used small wire ties to secure the wires and some clear scotch tape to hold the wires on each side of the fuse. The second pic is how I mounted the receiver and run the antenna wires thru some plastic tubes. The third pic is how I ran the wires to the receiver I cut out a small hole just above the wing to run the wires.

[UK Arthur]

Cables

My battery cables kept separate from the rest, which are in a handy poly tube, all are kept clear of the battery space by the wood dowel which is lodged into the pockets of the fuselage molding.

[rifleman_btx]

Both look good to me

[capecoral]

Thansk gang good input and comfort level that i found the high points. I like to idea of separating the RX into the vacant top space. will advise on maiden down with flu crud

[themudduck]

This is how I tamed the rats nest of wires. In the first pic I used small wire ties to secure the wires and some clear scotch tape to hold the wires on each side of the fuse. The second pic is how I mounted the receiver and run the antenna wires thru some plastic tubes. The third pic is how I ran the wires to the receiver I cut out a small hole just above the wing to run the wires.

3rd pic... I like that idea, it gets the receiver away from potential sources of interference and blockage. And you have easy access with the top hatch. Very good!

CapeCoral - hope you feel better soon bud!

[Mad Baron]

I originally put the rx under the canopy but it was too crowded with all the wires plus it's easy to access if the need arises mounted on top of the wing

[NoDirt!]

I went the same route when I saw the Baron's set up. I had to "countersink" the Velcro on the receiver otherwise the hatch would not close.

[UK Arthur]

Putting both main and satellite Rxs below the cockpit has them closer together than I would prefer, but I wanted to be able to see their L E D' s light up to know that both had locked to the tranny when the battery is connected, without removing the wing cover each time. Putting them into the wing was tempting, and would have allowed most control cables to be shortened, and a clearer battery space.
Decisions, decisions; so many decisions!