Originally posted by UK Arthur
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Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread
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Maybe you could stick a plastic tube in the top cover, aligned with the receiver so you can see the red light... maybe it could even look like a beacon if you put some kind of crystal in the top to make it reflect?Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Hi TMD, I like your idea of a crystal for each Rx.
Shortening the bunch of cables would save a bit of weight. (And "every little helps") A one-way trip though.
My retracts don't work in the cold, of course. The nose retract is up-side down compared to the norm, is there an after-market replacement?
Also, during my build I tried to take one of the main legs from the unit (to fit oleos), but it didn't want to, despite rotating it back and forth. Is this typical with this model?
Arthur.
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Here's what I didOriginally posted by rifleman_btx View PostI just used the retracts off of my dead flight line p38. The mains were direct drop in. But the nose gear, I had to take the mounting plate off the dynam nose gear, epoxy it to the top of the flight line/freewing, then carefully drill holes to use the dynam screws to reinforce the bond. Finally had to cut the original bottom mount tabs off. Everything now fits and works perfectly.
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Fore some aircraft, to simplify the wiring (and because of very long wires) people have used multiple receivers, such as one in each engine nacelle of a B-25 doing the throttle, flap, aileron and retract for that wing and one in the fuselage for the tail surfaces, nose-wheel, bomb bay and other options.
It makes field assembly very easy for large models as all you connect is a power wire, not a bunch of servo leads.FF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbs
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Thanks Rifleman, saved me the trouble of looking for your post about the replaced nose gear.
Fortunately fhhuber, the B26 goes into my car fully assembled. The car will be 20 years old in the Spring, and has just had welding done to get it through its annual test. Dunno what would replace it for me, modern cars are fatter outside but narrower inside.
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I had to go to a pickup. with camper shell and a trailer because sometimes I haul 2x 50cc models a 33cc P-51 and a Top Flight (.46 glow engines size) B-25 along with an assortment of Dynam foamies.FF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbs
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I bought a pickup truck and put a shell on it just for hauling my planes. Now I have too many (not a bad thing:)) I have got a 5x10 cargo trailer & GMC Yukon to haul my fleet. :Cool:Originally posted by fhhuber View PostI had to go to a pickup. with camper shell and a trailer because sometimes I haul 2x 50cc models a 33cc P-51 and a Top Flight (.46 glow engines size) B-25 along with an assortment of Dynam foamies.
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Funny you asked that question and that depends on your setupOriginally posted by Wag727 View PostI just finished putting mine together and was wondering if the CG that they tell you in the instructions was correct or if it needs to be more or less?
Does anyone have any info?- Did you remove the weight in the back? - check balance but normally farther forward than stock
- what battery are you using also changes the CG location - mark it inside!!!
Just let me fly so I may be free
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I' using the admiral 4000mah battery they recommend but would like to put my 5200mah battery in it for a little more peace of mind. It balances with the 4000mah battery just a little nose down at about 72 mm. The 5200mah battery would let me put it at about the 60 - 65mm range so I might try that.
Thanks for your reply.
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This is how my B-26 balanced out I set my balance point at 70mm and with the gear up its slightly nose heavy and with the gear down its near level and it flies great. I fly mine with a 3600 4s lipo I haven't used a 4000 in it yet as I am getting 5-6 minute flights from the 3600 and the battery is at 3.8 a cell after a flight. My plane didn't have the weights in the back.
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really love my b26 great flying bomber i'm flying it with a 2200mah 4s pack getting 5 min flights with 45% left in the packs also flew it with 4200mah pack. no shim mod i did remove one weight flying at recommended cg and control throws. replaced retracts with flightline p38 retracts so i can fly in the cold and added robart wheels overall i love the plane even with the problems people talk about most are simple fixes for the average builder. also on a side note it does great belly landings but typically ends with at least one broken prop lol also if you do the retract mod check all retracts before installing them i had one that binded up and motion quickly sent out a replacement great service from motion .1 Photo
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I finally got to maiden my B-26 today with a 5200mah battery with the CG set at 65mm. Flew terrible at first, had a natural roll to the right. After a new friend at the field came over and gave me 80 clicks left trim on the ailerons and 8 clicks left rudder and 8 clicks up elevator it flew great! When I made my flyby to lower the retracts, only the front came down. I cycled them about 5 or 6 times and then none would come down. Had to apply flaps and belly land her and all that happened was a broken prop, destroyed belly football, and some belly scrapes. She set down perfectly just wish the retracts would have worked. After looking at everything, we determined that the wing is warped since there was about an 1/8 inch down ailerons on the right side. I have shimmer the wingtips to compensate for this and hopefully it fixes the issue.
If it wasn't for Rick, my girl would have been a complete loss.
Does anyone know if e-flite retracts will fit without too many mods?
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