Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

DG..how about some weathering tips. Would like to make mine look like it went thru hell.

Tom

[Hugh Wiedman]

If the Corsair stops and sits in one spot (of grass) for more than a few seconds, it settles in and sinks a bit. The grass acts almost like wheel chocks. To avoid an "endo" when moving off (which happens often on grass with tail draggers), hold full UP elevator on high rates and blip the throttle to get the wheel rolling out of their little divots. Once rolling a few mph, but not fast enough for lift, ease off on the elevator and proceed to take off as if you are on a smooth, hard surface. If you don't let off the elevator and you give it too much throttle, the plane will lift off prematurely and do a wing over (torque roll). The UP ELE is only to get you rolling without it nosing over and to also help with more pressure on the tail (from the prop wash) for ground steering.

WOW, the knowledge and experience of the participants in this forum is almost scary :Cool:, thanks so much Steve, xviper and Aros, your advice is greatly appreciated. BTW, xviper and Steve, forgot to thank you both for some advice you gave me a while back when I was having my flaps occasionally get stuck in the landing position on both my B-24's. You suggested that in some setups, the "slow deployment (4sec)" of flaps would cause them to stop working occasionally and to take out the slow speed, which I did to 0 seconds, and try that. Since doing so, haven't had a problem again. ;)Your help, as always, is invaluable.

[xviper]

You are very welcome, Hugh. I hate that in some cases, we can't avail ourselves of the ability to slow down the flap deployment. I don't like "instant" flaps. It can make flying a little more challenging, making it occasionally necessary to dial in some elevator compensation. Real planes don't have instant flaps. They deploy slowly to minimize upsetting the stability of the aircraft. But, we do what we must do.

[sethscorsair]

The replacement fin/rudder is in stock finally. :P

Not for the birdcage I've been waiting over a month!

[downwindleg]

You are very welcome, Hugh. I hate that in some cases, we can't avail ourselves of the ability to slow down the flap deployment. I don't like "instant" flaps. It can make flying a little more challenging, making it occasionally necessary to dial in some elevator compensation. Real planes don't have instant flaps. They deploy slowly to minimize upsetting the stability of the aircraft. But, we do what we must do.

It might be worth trying a one or two second delay on the flaps and see if that works consistently. There might be a fine line between "instant" flaps and slow deployment.:Ligthbulb:

[davegee]

DG..how about some weathering tips. Would like to make mine look like it went thru hell.

Tom

Hi Tom: I have been experimenting with chalks and powders to do the weathering. This way, you really can't screw it up if you goof; it can be wiped off for the most part with a damp cloth to try it again. I concentrated on areas that would get the most abuse from the elements and weather in the South Pacific sun. Since the Corsair had several panels on the wings and elsewhere that were fabric, those would fade rapidly as would the top surfaces of the entire aircraft. My cardinal rule though, for me and when I occasionally judge at shows is don't overdo it! Some otherwise great looking planes look terrible (IMHO) like they went through an Earth reentry like an Apollo spacecraft! Convincing use of weathering in places where it is expected, usually working from a photo or even some old color videos sometimes is helpful. Having said all that, the Corsairs, especially fighting with the Marines in the Solomon Islands and elsewhere really started to look sun-damaged and a bit ratty, due to the extreme conditions that they were operating under. So, if you look at some pics from then, if you use some grey chalks, browns and tans here and there and brush them on in places where they should show the most weathering, you'll do well. I continue to add weathering here and there, eventually I'll set it with some clear flat spray to keep it from coming off when I'm satisfied I've done all I care to. I even rub some grey chalk on the wheels and tires to weather those, too.
I recently helped a friend with his Skymaster 1/6 scale F/A-18F Super Hornet with some weathering on the bottom of the fuse. I used the same powders that I got from a train hobby shop, browns, tans, greys, as well as at a art supply shop where they sell artists' chalks that can be rubbed against sandpaper and then applied with a brush, dry. This photo of the Super Bug I took last weekend in a coordinated move from the pilot to me on the camera to do a sharp bank in front of me so I could get a good shot of the bottom of the aircraft to see how it looked. We are pretty satisfied with the appearance right now, and might hit it with a light clear flat spray to hold it for awhile. We used actual photos of real planes as a guide while applying these details.
If I can help answer any questions for anyone interested in playing with this medium of chalks, please let me know, I'm happy to help.

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

Not for the birdcage I've been waiting over a month!

You could get the bubble top vertical fin and just paint it. Take the one from the birdcage to home depot for a paint match.

Tom

[xviper]

It might be worth trying a one or two second delay on the flaps and see if that works consistently. There might be a fine line between "instant" flaps and slow deployment.:Ligthbulb:

Yes, give it a try but be prepared to fly a circuit with partial flaps if they don’t both come back up. It happened to me where one stuck down when I tried to suck them up. The plane began to roll and I had to deploy them again quickly just to maintain control to land it. This was on my Avant S. I now have them at 2 seconds. That’s as slow as they will go without a problem.

[Hugh Wiedman]

Yes, give it a try but be prepared to fly a circuit with partial flaps if they don’t both come back up. It happened to me where one stuck down when I tried to suck them up. The plane began to roll and I had to deploy them again quickly just to maintain control to land it. This was on my Avant S. I now have them at 2 seconds. That’s as slow as they will go without a problem.

I've already got the elevator trim set perfectly for each flap deployment so while I don't like the idea of "instant" flaps, the plane doesn't "miss a beat" when they are deployed instantly. I also have the trim utilities set so I can individually trim for elevator and aileron on each flap setting while in flight so at this point, I'll leave it were it is with the old adage of "if it ain't broke, don't mess with it". I also like to deploy flaps and gear with a little more altitude so I have time to counter any unforeseen new issue. Thanks again.

[Hugh Wiedman]

With all this rain here and not being able to fly, it gave me an opportunity to contemplate the numerous complaints regarding the Corsair's retracts (never a good thing for me to sit around thinking-not my strong suit).:Thinking: I've come to the conclusion that the Corsair retracts are no better or worse than the Spitfire, F4, B-24 or any other Flight Line retract. The only difference is that the Corsair retract takes all of the landing pressure on the small screw jack, while all the others take the landing force on the trunnion against the side of the retract casing, with no force on the screw jack itself, which is easily the weakest link. I've taken apart all these planes retracts and the guts are all the same, and wouldn't be surprised that you could take the guts out of a Spitfire retract (the screw, motor, gear) and put it in the casing of a folded Corsair retract and you'd be in business.

When are started flying the Corsair, the first 3 flights ended with a slight bounce and no retract issues, then lost my mind and tried to come in slower on the fourth and it dropped too quickly from about a foot off the concrete and folded a retract. I've had "harder" landings on all those other planes (and yet to fold a retract) than the one folding the Corsair retract and at first thought these retracts suck.:Angry: But let's be honest, my landing skills suck. :Loser:

So unless they mount the retract sideways and the gear comes out sideways :Poo: (which is sacrilegious on a Corsair) the only solution for those of us occasionally folding a retract is to become more proficient with a smooth 2 point landing with the Corsair. She'll certainly let you know immediately if you've accomplished a decent landing! :Cool:

[downwindleg]

I'm with you Hugh! Try to make good two point landings and keep some spare retract units around along with those extra prop blades.....and maybe some gear doors.;) Oh and a big jar of pride swallowing solution to go with the shame eraser powder.LOL

[xviper]

Although the Corsair looks beautiful coming in with full flaps, I have found that to build up to those greased landings, I’ve had to start off with partial flaps (take off flaps) or no flaps. Once I get the landings greased, I can go to more and more flaps till I can do it with full landing flaps. I’ve used this technique on many of my planes now and quite frankly, I don’t even bother with full flaps on most of my planes anymore. Slowing the plane down without the use of full flaps is a practiced technique, too. Give yourself a long, straight approach so you have time and distance for the plane to slow down on its own. That teaches you throttle control that can be used for the eventual full flap landing.

[thisguy65]

Looking at the retracts I believe the landing gear is over sprung and spring could be cut down a little. This would give better shock absorption. Combine wit the robart wheels could help damping things down.

[paladin]

You are very welcome, Hugh. I hate that in some cases, we can't avail ourselves of the ability to slow down the flap deployment. I don't like "instant" flaps. It can make flying a little more challenging, making it occasionally necessary to dial in some elevator compensation. Real planes don't have instant flaps. They deploy slowly to minimize upsetting the stability of the aircraft. But, we do what we must do.

I only buy tx's that have sliders for flaps for that reason. the stress it puts on the hinges and the servos is phenomenal when you hit insta-flaps. when I build a model or assemble an ARF I pick the flap servo to stall at 60-65mph and that usually takes ~100in-oz servo for a 60 size, in foamies they put in 30-50in-oz servos. they apparently are not concerned about the current draw of a stalled servo and its affect on the system. that's why I go dirty in the down wind leg, away from people. but I usually go to 40% throttle then feed the flap in to keep the nose up as the speed bleeds off , at the end I should need some e hold to keep it level or I have to much throttle. this corsair acts just like that, just the way I like it to act all the way through the landing. the spit requires a lot more E hold and the nose comes up every time I enter ground affect.

Joe

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

On my third flight of my Corsair I landed too hard and bounced after which it stalled and dropped it's left wing and snapped the connecting pin on the left retract and bent the jack screw on the right gear. As soon as Motion gets retracts back in stock I'll be replacing both. Weird that they don't have the connecting pin as a separate part.
I also broke the front gear door on the left side. I hope the new door will "snap" right in.
Also broken was a prop blade, which luckily motion supplied a spare.

Tom

[paladin]

I have not taken mine apart yet so forgive my innocents. can you see both sides of the hole the pin is broken off in? if you can, and the gear are FUBR at this point try to drive it out and make a new pin or put the one from the other gear in it. if you can make one good out of two bad that's a win.

Joe

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

I managed to save the right retract unit (the one with the bent jack screw). The left retract's jack screw wasn't bent but the connecting pin broke off at the trunion. Swapped the drive motor and jack screw from the left unit into the right one and all is good. Saved one of two.
Going to print the 3D pup Cockpit and make some cowl flaps while waiting for the left retract.

Tom

[prestonowtm]

Love the info here. I am no flight God for sure..crash and burned a lot over the years. I keep my flap settings at 2 sec. on everything. No issues. As to landing..this plane has become my favorite flyer for sure. Had a bounce or two when I first got it going but now..seriously guys..full flap with about 20-25% throttle and this thing glides in like a baby on a cloud. I find my throttle setting at about 60-75ft up and 100yds out..throttle down slow until it just starts to drop ..then tweek it up a hair. It will float right in for a two point every single time. Drop that throttle below 20% is a nono. I have a beep set up on the transmitter for landing stall. Easy to do for each plane and reminds you where the throttle is at instead of guessing....set up the beep guys! Seriously...I have atleast 50 flights on this plane with no issue. The beep at 20% is key...heck it's a great trick for every plane. The landing gear on this thing is rock solid. It's not the plane...it's the pilot.

[Aros]

That stall beep is a great idea! And I agree with you on the throttle setting with full flaps.

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

It was definitely pilot error that caused my poor landing..only my third flight on this Corsair.
I've been using the beep on my tx to stop the timer when below 20% throttle. Will now also use the beep to get my glide speed set.
Thanks

Tom