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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

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  • Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View Post

    And the commute isn't too shabby either! ;)
    LOLLOLLOLIt's the only commute where I can drink and drive!:Don't-tell-Anyone::)

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    • That post of sfcfury doesn't say anything about the zip tie mod for the prop blades for this Corsair. That mod was predominantly meant for the V1 version of the 1400mm series FMS P-51 Mustang, which was a 4 cell plane. This Corsair is a 6 cell plane and although you may see improvement in performance, the ultimate max rpm of this power system may exceed the safe watt limit for the motor and ESC and possibly even the efficacy of the prop assembly of pitch is increased in this way.

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      • so be sure to adjust for minimum smoke.
        Platt: fw190d9 Dynaflite:PT-19 IMP:Macchi202 ESM:fw190 ESM:Tank, Hien Jackson:DH-2 BH:macchi200 Extr:fw190 Holman:me109F H9spit2 FL:F4u,spit 9 FW:me262 GP:us60, Stuka, cub, F4u PZ:me109, albi EF Hurri, T-28 FMS: 2x fw190, me109 Lone Star:Skat Kat RSCombat:2xfw190d9

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        • So, is the solution - even before using the “blue box” for the first time - to bypass it and go to Y connections? :Angry:

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          • Originally posted by xviper View Post
            That post of sfcfury doesn't say anything about the zip tie mod for the prop blades for this Corsair. That mod was predominantly meant for the V1 version of the 1400mm series FMS P-51 Mustang, which was a 4 cell plane. This Corsair is a 6 cell plane and although you may see improvement in performance, the ultimate max rpm of this power system may exceed the safe watt limit for the motor and ESC and possibly even the efficacy of the prop assembly of pitch is increased in this way.
            And to add further.........it's not possible to do the zip tie mod to the corsair blades due to the different hub/blade stem configuration.
            They are physically captured in the hub whereas the Stang blades where bolted to the spinner back plate
            Warbird Charlie
            HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

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            • Originally posted by theoldALFER View Post
              So, is the solution - even before using the “blue box” for the first time - to bypass it and go to Y connections? :Angry:
              It's only a "solution" if your plane has a "problem". For mine, there is no problem with the control box, only in the wing boards where plugs were swapped and/or not fully seated. If the blue box is a problem on your plane (and you won't know this until something happens or if one of your tests fail), bypassing it with "some" of the servos may be the solution. You must keep in mind that you have the complication in that delays and light activation is built into the board and the board needs certain inputs from some of the servos in order to also supply power for the lights. To know which plug you need for power will require testing or trial and error. Of course, you can get a light controller (another "board"). The delay that's built into the board for things like gear doors/retracts will have to be replaced by some kind of sequencer (another "board"). So, you have to decide which components you want to bypass and which to keep. In my mind, the fewer the better but then, I'm a bit of a risk taker. I've flown planes where one aileron has failed in flight. It wasn't pretty but the plane was flyable. Same with flaps. One wouldn't retract, so I had to put the other one down quickly and land. Rudder - having it fail is not doomsday. Not having all retracts come down could be a real problem unless you're good at belly landings ("ploppers") and have lots of spare prop blades.

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              • Originally posted by OV10 View Post

                And to add further.........it's not possible to do the zip tie mod to the corsair blades due to the different hub/blade stem configuration.
                They are physically captured in the hub whereas the Stang blades where bolted to the spinner back plate
                There you go. I think he linked the wrong post and posted in the wrong thread. It's good we cleared this up. I'm sure there are those who read these threads and get real agitated when they try stuff and it doesn't work or worse, they start breaking things.

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                • Originally posted by theoldALFER View Post
                  So, is the solution - even before using the “blue box” for the first time - to bypass it and go to Y connections? :Angry:
                  This is your second request but no one wants to go there so I'll give it a shot Alfer.
                  Because the reports that have come in are still pretty sketchy at best it is hard to determine other than how each individual airframe owner feels.
                  If you have had no bad experience with the blue box such as I have had then your confidence level has not been jeopardized.
                  For those that have been snake bit that now heightens the fear factor. :Scared:I would say the exposure of failures is not a rampant problem.
                  Of the failures reported how many were because of assembly error and other anomalies.:Thinking:
                  Bottom line..........do what makes you feel comfortable ;)

                  Best regards
                  Warbird Charlie
                  HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

                  Comment


                  • I have not flown my Birdcage, but I have tested it extensively with the TX and the servo tester... You CAN get the board out of sequence, just like the L-39. But you can put it back just as easily if you document what you are doing and what switches are set at the time... I know that is not helpful, but the board has a sequence and if it gets "confused" the rudder and tail wheel don't work at the same time.... :Thinking:

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                    • Originally posted by Hardway View Post
                      Thank you all for caring, you are my brothers!!! We survived, but it was a close call this time.... :Whew:
                      That's one big mother Jerry! Glad your safe.

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                      • Glad you guys are ok.

                        When I was a kid and still today part of me wants to chase these things.
                        Planes
                        -E-Flite: 1.2m P-47, Maule, Turbo Timber, 1.5m AT-6, 1.2m T-28, Dallas Doll, Viper, F-15, F-16, Wildcat, Carbon Cub -UMX: Mig-15, Pitts, Timber
                        -FMS: Bae Hawk Motion: 1.6m Corsair, 850mm Mustang, 1.6m Spitfire Freewing: 1.7m A-10, F-22,

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                        • [QUOTE=Hardway;n197330]I have not flown my Birdcage, but I have tested it extensively with the TX and the servo tester... You CAN get the board out of sequence, just like the L-39. But you can put it back just as easily if you document what you are doing and what switches are set at the time... I know that is not helpful, but the board has a sequence and if it gets "confused" the rudder and tail wheel don't work at the same time.... :Thinking:

                          Thats too bad you haven’t flown your plane yet because it is a gas.
                          I bought a second one to repaint & weather, the first one was so much fun, I followed your lead, have sanded off the mold marks. This really make the finish smooth, it was worth the effort.

                          Ken

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                          • Yes sir!!! Charlie is a FIVE (5) time cancer survivor!!! Tough bird!!! Thanking God for your healing WBC!!! And I understand your pain. I have psoriatic arthritis and bouts of gout, so I know how it goes!!!! Thanks for everything Bro!!! Jerry ;)

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                            • Hi guys, I finally got some flights in today on my Birdcage. I have a total of 42 flights so far. Today’s landings were good but I got one without a bounce! I’ll take that to the bank! Happy landings to all! Click image for larger version

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                              • Congrats! No bounce is always a great feeling!
                                My YouTube RC videos:
                                https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                                • Thanks guys...
                                  Great advice as always. :Cool::Cool::Cool:

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                                  • Well flight 16 ended badly today. Right after taking off the wind came up out of the east(crosswind) and I found myself stretching the flight as long as I dared hoping the wind died down. It didn't so I had no choice but to make an approach and hope for the best. As I slowed down, the plane was drifting towards the pits and as I gave it a little rudder, the wind stopped dead and the plane mushed in.:Scared: Even though I would just call this a hard landing, the gear just folded like they were made out of balsa. I have to say the gear are pretty weak. Other than that though, hardly a scratch on the plane.:Whew: Two prop blades, half of a gear door, and what ever happened with the gear.They don't operate at this point so I'll have to dig into it tomorrow.

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                                    • Ugh. Sorry Brad, I wish I could say I have no clue what you are talking about but in fact I know all too well precisely what you are talking about. Even though I admit fault for slowing her down beyond stall speed about a foot AGL, I too was shocked that the retracts buckled like kindling. Definitely the weakest point of the plane. Not to say they are bad retracts, but they are manufactured to fold to save the integrity of the wing. But not without cost.
                                      My YouTube RC videos:
                                      https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                                      • I just joined the FL Corsair Club. Should have it here by this Friday along with the Admiral RX600SP receiver. I purchased the "bubble top" variant.
                                        I did buy the RX with stabilizer. A question in regards to the RX. Does it come with any male to male connectors?
                                        I've read most of the posts on the 1600 mm Corsair but haven't seen any that have used a Stabilizer. Does it need one or could it use a stabilizer under certain conditions?

                                        I've been hesitant in buying an electric Corsair but after seeing one assembled and flown at Nall I had to have one.

                                        Tom

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