Hi Tom. The capacitors charge up when you plug in the battery pack.
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Hey Tom, personally, I just forget about them as I used several A3L's before they decided to put these in the kits. I'm not sure what the problem was or what it was supposed to solve, but all of mine (11) work fine without them.
Hopefully someone can give us an answer. Personally, if I have an unused channel, I use it for a gain control.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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The capacitor thing is something that came with the last purchase. None of my older HobbyEagles came with it. I'm not sure what problem it's supposed to resolve. I think it's supposed to maintain a steady voltage during spikes in the current to the RX. I used it because it was there. However, this is the very first unit that made my plane go nuts. During a bank, the plane would lose altitude like crazy (alarmingly so) and I barely got it back down unscathed. This even happened when I flipped the switch to turn OFF the stability. Not knowing what it was, I took the plane home and yanked out the A3-L and just hooked up all the wiring back the way it was and the next time out, the plane flew perfectly. I don't if it had anything to do with that little capacitor but I will do a round of testing in my "junk" plane. I have a MAKO that I use for testing all new RXs and stabilizers before they go into any plane.
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Weird!
The only thing I've had issues with was when I didn't have the direction of the correction the right way.
You probably know this but you crank up your gain and then move the plane sharply to check this, for instance, snap it to the left to see if the rudder correction that the gyro adds is to the right, if not, reverse it, same with the elevators and ailerons. Sometimes it can fool you, so that's why I take off and get the three mistakes of altitude, then very briefly turn the gyro on and off. That;s enough to tell you whether its set up correctly or not. If that's not it, check to see if it's programmed for right side up and not upside down mounting, oh and the wires always face towards the rear of the plane.
Other than that, if you have all that correct, I couldn't tell you whats wrong.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Originally posted by Grossman56 View PostWeird!
The only thing I've had issues with was when I didn't have the direction of the correction the right way.
You probably know this but you crank up your gain and then move the plane sharply to check this, for instance, snap it to the left to see if the rudder correction that the gyro adds is to the right, if not, reverse it, same with the elevators and ailerons. Sometimes it can fool you, so that's why I take off and get the three mistakes of altitude, then very briefly turn the gyro on and off. That;s enough to tell you whether its set up correctly or not. If that's not it, check to see if it's programmed for right side up and not upside down mounting, oh and the wires always face towards the rear of the plane.
Other than that, if you have all that correct, I couldn't tell you whats wrong.
Grossman56
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Hi everyone, Happy New Year! I'm in the setup stage of a Freewing F-15 90mm edf and will be using a DX9 with one of the new AR8010T Telemetry receivers. I have a few questions, hoping for some help here. First concerns the orientation of the gyro itself, I've placed it upright with the connectors facing forward, contrary to all installs I've seen here, but according to the instruction manual for the A3-L, "You only need to ensure that the servo connector pins always point toward the front (or rear) of the plane." Having mounted it this way I did have to reverse the three flight controls on the gyro to react correctly. Due to the tight internal space for the gyro there isn't a whole lot of alternate locations but it should work if the instructions are correct. Is this correct?
My other question concerns using sub-trims in conjunction with this gyro, or any gyro for that matter. Is it okay to use them when setting up control throws and centering when mechanical adjustments are not enough?
Thanks in advance.
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Originally posted by caddguy6 View PostHi everyone, Happy New Year! I'm in the setup stage of a Freewing F-15 90mm edf and will be using a DX9 with one of the new AR8010T Telemetry receivers. I have a few questions, hoping for some help here. First concerns the orientation of the gyro itself, I've placed it upright with the connectors facing forward, contrary to all installs I've seen here, but according to the instruction manual for the A3-L, "You only need to ensure that the servo connector pins always point toward the front (or rear) of the plane." Having mounted it this way I did have to reverse the three flight controls on the gyro to react correctly. Due to the tight internal space for the gyro there isn't a whole lot of alternate locations but it should work if the instructions are correct. Is this correct?
My other question concerns using sub-trims in conjunction with this gyro, or any gyro for that matter. Is it okay to use them when setting up control throws and centering when mechanical adjustments are not enough?
Thanks in advance.
Unlike the Spektrum AS3X stabilized Rx's, the use of the trims (either on the outside of the Tx or within the servo sub-trim menu) won't affect the way the stabilizer works. However, this sort of trimming should only be done for minor adjustments. Gross trimming should always be done mechanically via control rod lengths.
The only thing left is to do final adjustments for gain. On a plane like this, you won't need 3D adjustment and that one can be dialed down to zero, leaving only the normal gain to be fiddled with. It would be handy to have the ability to shut the stabilizer off while in the air in case the gain is badly out. With that Rx, you should be able to plug the ON/OFF into a 2 or 3-way switch and use remote adjustable gain via the AUX3 knob.
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Originally posted by caddguy6 View PostHi everyone, Happy New Year! I'm in the setup stage of a Freewing F-15 90mm edf and will be using a DX9 with one of the new AR8010T Telemetry receivers. I have a few questions, hoping for some help here. First concerns the orientation of the gyro itself, I've placed it upright with the connectors facing forward, contrary to all installs I've seen here, but according to the instruction manual for the A3-L, "You only need to ensure that the servo connector pins always point toward the front (or rear) of the plane." Having mounted it this way I did have to reverse the three flight controls on the gyro to react correctly. Due to the tight internal space for the gyro there isn't a whole lot of alternate locations but it should work if the instructions are correct. Is this correct?
My other question concerns using sub-trims in conjunction with this gyro, or any gyro for that matter. Is it okay to use them when setting up control throws and centering when mechanical adjustments are not enough?
Thanks in advance.
Mounting the A3L on it's side is perfectly fine, the instructions are correct.
Can't advise on sub-trims because believe it or not have never needed to use that function on my 25+ warbird fleet using a DX9.
Best regards,Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Originally posted by xviper2 View PostYou say that you've got the gyro response directions in the correct way. I presume you've tested this by picking up the plane and seeing which way they move. IE, if you roll the plane right, does the gyro try to make it go left? Pitch down, it tries to make the plane go up? Yaw right, it tries to make the plane go left? If this is so, there's nothing more to say about it.
Unlike the Spektrum AS3X stabilized Rx's, the use of the trims (either on the outside of the Tx or within the servo sub-trim menu) won't affect the way the stabilizer works. However, this sort of trimming should only be done for minor adjustments. Gross trimming should always be done mechanically via control rod lengths.
The only thing left is to do final adjustments for gain. On a plane like this, you won't need 3D adjustment and that one can be dialed down to zero, leaving only the normal gain to be fiddled with. It would be handy to have the ability to shut the stabilizer off while in the air in case the gain is badly out. With that Rx, you should be able to plug the ON/OFF into a 2 or 3-way switch and use remote adjustable gain via the AUX3 knob.
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After coming across this thread I decided to purchase few of these but have yet to use them. Prior to trying these I attempted to use the Spektrum Gyros but those things left such a bad taste in my mouth, they were so difficult to program and were virtually impossible to work with on their phone app. Anyway, after reading through this thread Im really excited to get home and test one out today! They seem so easy to setup and use. I noticed some have luck with just dropping them in and only having to adjust the gain, others have to reverse controls and such.
Im assuming these arent all a "drop in fit" so to speak, so they dont leave the factory with default presets and require changes to be made?
I plan on using them for my Warbirds so Im keeping them normal, no 3D and moderate gain since I deal with Orange County winds.
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Originally posted by Plastic_Aviator View PostIm assuming these arent all a "drop in fit" so to speak, so they dont leave the factory with default presets and require changes to be made?
I plan on using them for my Warbirds so Im keeping them normal, no 3D and moderate gain since I deal with Orange County winds.
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Originally posted by xviper2 View PostIt's always a good idea to go through the "steps" to insure all the response directions are correct. If you can, assign the gain to a rotary knob and you can adjust in flight. If not, start off low and work your way up till it shutters, then back off a notch. Have it on an ON/OFF switch so you don't shutter all the way to landing. It will shutter the most as airspeed increases.
Oh! You just brought up other questions. :)
For smaller planes running 6ch receivers, using all 6 channels there is no way to obviously program this to a switch, correct? I would need to have an available AUX connected to the MOD port?
Also, "oscillation" basically means that the servos will flutter at high speed. That indicates that the gain needs to be lowered?
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Originally posted by Plastic_Aviator View Post
Oh! You just brought up other questions. :)
For smaller planes running 6ch receivers, using all 6 channels there is no way to obviously program this to a switch, correct? I would need to have an available AUX connected to the MOD port?
Also, "oscillation" basically means that the servos will flutter at high speed. That indicates that the gain needs to be lowered?
Since you don't want or need 3D, turn that pot to zero just in case. It usually defaults to "normal" stabilized mode when you can't connect it to an empty channel.
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Hi chaps can I just plug in and set up my new A3 flight controller using just rudder and elevator using a mode 2 transmitter , right hand stick only. Left stick throttle only.i.e. So do I just connect aileron( rudder really) and elevator.i do not have ailerons on my model.just an old timer but I am new to flying after a long lay off.so this controller looks like a great flying aid ,especially in oh crap mode (auto balance). Hope I am correct but please give your views/input.
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Originally posted by bobbyc View PostHi chaps can I just plug in and set up my new A3 flight controller using just rudder and elevator using a mode 2 transmitter , right hand stick only. Left stick throttle only.i.e. So do I just connect aileron( rudder really) and elevator.i do not have ailerons on my model.just an old timer but I am new to flying after a long lay off.so this controller looks like a great flying aid ,especially in oh crap mode (auto balance). Hope I am correct but please give your views/input.
Regarding your comment on 'oh crap mode', this gyro functions as an attitude stabilizer and not as a correction device(auto balance as you indicated).
In other words if the oh crap moment happens to be you got disoriented and put the airframe into a banking inverted decent it is not going to correct your attitude back to level upright flight.
This capability is done by what is trademarked by Eflite as "SAFE" receivers and they are programmed for use in a specific airframe. Here's an example.
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With regard to question on connections, so yes you connect your rudder servo to the aileron port of the gyro when using the aileron stick(right stick mode 2) to control your rudder.
Best regards,
Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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