Oh yeah this is great stuff!
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Hey, Alpha, Do you know whether there is there a difference between stl files written for SLA and those written for filament 3DP? Best. LBI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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Not Alpha, but STL are universal 3D files. My guess is the model was made with small details optimized for SLA, which might not work for FDM. You can load any STL into your slicer and see how the part turns out in previewComment
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DD, Thank you for a quick response and I have done that when I modified the Flightline Spitfire Aft Former stl file and I have never had a print problem, though I wonder about the detail settings. I am printing, just for an example, the F-22 Raptor stl files for an Ejection Seat at the 10% fill and Detail settings. Just curious how much to use PLA versus ABS or PETG and whether there is a difference in the type of printing in the stl file. I am starting a print on the 3DLabs F-86 Canopy with Transparent White just for giggles. Hope I can least get some light through it. Best, LBOriginally posted by Dirty Dee View PostI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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layer settings will mostly drive the detail resolution of the parts in the Z-axis, as your nozzle size is the limitation for the x-y plane (0.4mm nozzle). play around with part orientation to find the best resolution for the parts. I'd suggest ABS or PETG for those parts as PLA might soften and deform, even with the tinted canopy.Comment
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Thanks, DD. Do you think when I print the F-86 in ABS I should increase the nozzle temp above ABS listings? In PLA it prints at 230C as compared to 210C normally with Prusa settings. Again, the question is the thin wall construction of the stl files and not a warping issue, so far. LBI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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PLA Print of the Raptor Ejection Seat. Detail setting Prusa i3 Mk3 with 10% fill. Nice detail on sides but not so much on face of the seat. I rotated the print to print seat face upward. Best, LB
Attached FilesI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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Hey Y'all, First print with MatterHackers 'Transparent White' on the first of the F-86 canopy sections. It is 'clear' enough for this project and I like the structure showing through. Would definately try PETG or Polycarbonate. Best, LB
I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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Nice! If it weren't for needing to be a structural part with all the ribbing that would be fairly transparent.Comment
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RCJD, I dig the structure but using ABS you could polish it somewhat. I tried acetone polish on a piece of the PLA filament and it clouded it. Also, the walls are so thin I am certain it would melt it. Have you tried smoothing your ABS structure? Best, LBI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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I have not yet tried Acetone. May do it on a scrap to test.Comment
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I wonder if it would be better in that case to use this canopy print as the base to create a buck for use in a vaccuform machine. You'd need to reinforce it with formers to retain the structural rigidity required of the original part, but at least the end result would be an actually clear canopy.Originally posted by Elbee View PostHey Y'all, First print with MatterHackers 'Transparent White' on the first of the F-86 canopy sections. It is 'clear' enough for this project and I like the structure showing through. Would definately try PETG or Polycarbonate. Best, LB
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Thats what i would try, ive been doing upgrade prints for my printer. Then once i have things on the printer how i want its game time!Comment
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Tried a more complex parts.Comment
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Thanks this is a serious addiction! LOLand im just printing upgrade pieces for this printer. Once i get the printer how i want its on to the RC!Comment
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Hey Y'all, 3D Labs is offering a Pratt & Whitney 2800 Double Wasp engine for 3DP for $10. https://3dlabprint.com/shop/pratt-wh...r-2800-engine/ It is scaled to their Corsair which is approximately 1/6th scale. If you use 3DSimplify it can be scaled to fit the MotionRC Corsair or any airframe for that matter. I downloaded the files and will post here with pictures when I print it. Best, LBI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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I might just do that, if they look as good as the f86 you're building that will be a fun projectComment
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RFMBTX, Yeah, it looks pretty cool, perhaps I need a Corsair or a Hellcat. LOL I am currently printing our Croatian Squawk contributor MesRCPilot cockpit goodies for his Flightline Spit and will get that to him ASAP. Oh, and Tammes wants me to print transparent feathers and cubes with slots over the weekend. Don't ask, b'cuz, I don't have a clue. LOL Best, LBI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
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LOL oh yeah when you figure those out and print them you gotta post the pics!LOL
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