The stock PNP is a lot of fun especially with the V2 PNP's stock 12B power system. None of the mods below are required, but since the questions were asked, here are a few bits of input from my experience:
1) The stock PNP can enter and depart flat spins with ease and execute a wide variety of the lengthy maneuvers in your video, without the need to add slats or LEVs. In fact for weight and wing strength concerns I wouldn't recommend adding them. Flaperons aren't needed, either, but sure, add them in your radio settings in you're so inclined. It won't hurt. High alphas and cobras are easy with the 12B power system without them.
2) Depending on your grass height, consider shimming the nose retract by 2-3mm to ease rotation, although if you're tying in flaperons you likely won't need to do this. Canting in both rudders will look neat, but not necessary with the 12B power system, and consider also that the Su-35's vertical stabs aren't angled like an F-18, F-22, or T-50, so the effect you're after is less in play. If you're using 16 channels, you might as well consider mixing throttle, gear, and your rudders, such that when throttle is below 5% and the gear is down, pushing the elevator stick 100% forward will splay both rudders outwards for a braking action. In practice, on grass it won't be doing much, but at latest least it will look cool.
3) The main struts are Oleos, so standard precaution applies to minimize the rearward force during landing. Consider swapping to my generation of aluminum hub (F-14).
4) Lights... we don't have any lenses specifically for that bird. You may need to get creative, perhaps mixing lenses from the 90mm F-14, F-15, T-45, etc.
5) A hand launch configuration is easy... remove the undercarriage, ventral fins, and drop down to a high C 4000. Glass or Modpodge the nacelles, but don't overdo it. Fiberglass tape painted over works great and is more durable on grass. The Su-35 won't fly exactly like the MiG-29, but it will get you close. Also, wrap the fingerholes you cut in with fiberglass tape. If you're extra finicky, remove the associated gear plastic parts (including door servo and string steering servo) to reduce more weight then tape over the nose doors and mains holes to reduce drag.
6) Decal backwards... I didn't notice that but I'll make a note to see if Freewing can change it the next time they print more decal sheets, although when that would be, I can't predict.
7) If you're after absolute weight savings for a hand launch configuration, try locking your nozzles for a few flights. You may find that you can achieve your preferred flight characteristics without TV and relying solely on your control surfaces for authority. If that's the case, ditch the TV servos.
I ended up keeping TV but ditching the wing servos and rudder servos and flying tailerons. Very light, very simple, very acrobatic.
8) Don't fret if there's minimal slop in the TV nozzles. If it bugs you, clamp them together tighter then feed in dry graphite to lubricate the action.
9) If you're looking to optimize the aircraft for speed, ditch the ventral fins, sharpen the TEs all around (very easy to do because the Su-35 is EPS), ditch the TV, and lock the nozzles. The TV nozzles are very draggy, so replacing them with a properly scaled tapering exhaust outlet will improve thrust. Experiment covering the cheaters, too. Ideally relocate them closer to the fans.
10) Get comfy removing wings if you don't have a van or truck.
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