Oh. well, you are the first doing this... On some ESCs with internal BECs you need to disconnect one by disconnecting the red lead on one ESC. Many newer ESCs are not effected by this and you can leave both BECs active. If so I would think just plugging in quickly will work, it has on some other planes where I have two active BECs. you have a good second, maybe two before the first goes into programming mode.
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Official Freewing Twin 80mm F-14D Tomcat Thread
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I made a parallel connector for my A-10 and F-14.
My EDF's are out for delivery today. 2 new FW 2150 12 bl. I already had upgraded the F-14 with the A-10 setup when the A-10 came out. So just like in the Gripen I only need to drop in the new units. It was a no brainier after I did the Gripen and seen the difference. Can't wait to see what the F-14 does now.
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Noted, I have not tested full pull amps but I can say I have flown the Gripen three weekends in a row now and have done lots of full throttle punches and extended full throttle flights and have yet to have any issue. I know that don't mean I wont. I have not seen signs of those kind o amp pulls in my my battery usage or flight times either. Higher amp pulls should be seen in less flight times. I'm not seeing any less flight times with the same batteries I've been flying in the Gripen when it had the stock setup. The second weekend I flew it, One of the flights I raced a HP Vulcan. Two laps full stick. That was the about 30 seconds of full stick.
I just checked both esc specs, The freewing and the skywalkers both have 120A burst. SO maybe we are just at the threshold while in full stick. I usually don't fly full stick for long duration and try to live in the 60-80% range unless I'm doing a high sped pass for a vertical climb. With that maybe that why I'm not or have experienced an issue yet.
I will keep my first couple flights with the F-14 on the new units up higher. that will give me a change to dive and glide should I have a esc burnout.
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I spoke with Motion about this and the tech had a different take on dealing with 2 ESC's and how do you synch the two ESCs. He recommended using a BEC bypass on each ESC. BenchCraft 300mm (12") BEC Bypass Cable [BCT5076-020] Motion RC you can get them in 6 inch or 12 inch lengths. Connect a Castle Creation 10 amp bec to one of the battery leads. Use the battery with the CC BEC first and that would turn on both ESCs of which you can then have the throttle high and synch the two ESCs.
I like that idea. It also provides a little more amperage on the bus with all the servos and lights the F-14 has.
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That bypass is the same as removing the red wire from the ESCs plug...
Originally posted by Evan D View PostOh. well, you are the first doing this... On some ESCs with internal BECs you need to disconnect one by disconnecting the red lead on one ESC. Many newer ESCs are not effected by this and you can leave both BECs active. If so I would think just plugging in quickly will work, it has on some other planes where I have two active BECs. you have a good second, maybe two before the first goes into programming mode.
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I'd say analogue even though some are labeled digital but why are you asking. The digital FW servos are not like digital high end servos.
Freewing F-14 Tomcat Twin 80mm EDF Jet - PNP [FJ30812P] Motion RC
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Originally posted by Charles View PostI am sorry for asking a question that I am sure has been discussed a lot do I need to do anything different with anything at all if all I want to do differently from stock is run afterburners and 5800 batteries.
thank you for the help this is just all new to me..
It will be heavy, I'd check what people have written about landing gear reinforcement.
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How to connect 2 ESCs y harnessed into one receiver.
Ok fellas… I’m stumped and need some help on the above statement.
I ordered 100amp ESCs to replace the 80s in my F14 from RC Castle. They must not’ve had them in stock, because they took it upon themselves to substitute my order with two 120a ESCs w/reverse leads. Pretty nice, but not what I needed. Nevertheless, let’s make lemonade.
I installed the ESCs, but it only worked if I timed plugging them up simultaneously. If not only the first ESC and motor I plugged up would work while the other beeped.
I even removed the center red lead as mentioned in some old videos. If you know how to get Y-harnessed ESCs to work, I’m all eats.
the pics are the old 80s followed by the new blue 120s and the specs in the third pic.
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