Official Freewing F/A-18C Hornet 90mm EDF Thread

[Falcon195]

I fly off grass with 2 of the F-18's, both with the 12 blade inrunner. I've got maybe 80 flights on grass and never had a problem with the stock nose gear. Not sure why you'd need the extended battery tray or even any nose gear mod to begin with.

My F18 Canadian is quite heavy (and the Tiger Meet only slightly less so) with the heavier fan, after burner, paint, graphics and an additional 250 gr weight in the 3D cockpit/pilot plus I'm using a 815 gram SMC 6200 as well so I've got a heavier than usual F18 and stock nose gear has been fine.

I think the recommended CG might play into that as the manual recommends something like 88 but that's way too nose heavy. Start at 100mm and work back from there if you dareq. So I can't imagine you'll even need an extended battery tray unless you use a smaller battery than even a 5000.

Can't remember why Rich suggested a nose gear mod in the first place but in my experience, that's definitely a waste of time, unless maybe if you like flying very nose heavy and tend to land nose wheel first 🤣 (obviously not recommended with any jet).

Only thing I did to the nose gear was add a small diameter CF tube in the channel of the plastic brace rod suggested by a friend with some 300 F18 flights, even though his never broke.

I've been following this thread probably from the beginning and honestly can't remember anyone even mentioning needing a nose gear mod. Wonder if Rich was talking about the E-Flight F-18. I'm not the sharpest tack in the pack, so could be wrong about this. 🤯

The nose gear mod he is suggesting is he extended the battery tray to go over the front gear. Then he runs a machine screw through the front gear mount up from the gear well into a blind nut mounted in the extended battery tray. This stiffened the gear box. The extended battery tray is not for moving the battery forward, it is used to give the machine screw a place to fasten. RCinformer has a YouTube video showing this mod. The name of the video is something like "freewing F18 90mm modifications".

[Hugh Wiedman]

Has anybody done the rcinformer front landing gear mod? I am ordering the extended battery tray to do this mod. Looks like it will beef up the front gear. What do you guys think

I fly off grass with 2 of the F-18's, both with the 12 blade inrunner. I've got maybe 80 flights on grass and never had a problem with the stock nose gear. Not sure why you'd need the extended battery tray or even any nose gear mod to begin with.

My F18 Canadian is quite heavy (and the Tiger Meet only slightly less so) with the heavier fan, after burner, paint, graphics and an additional 250 gr weight in the 3D cockpit/pilot plus I'm using a 815 gram SMC 6200 as well so I've got a heavier than usual F18 and stock nose gear has been fine.

I think the recommended CG might play into that as the manual recommends something like 88 but that's way too nose heavy. Start at 100mm and work back from there if you dareq. So I can't imagine you'll even need an extended battery tray unless you use a smaller battery than even a 5000.

Can't remember why Rich suggested a nose gear mod in the first place but in my experience, that's definitely a waste of time, unless maybe if you like flying very nose heavy and tend to land nose wheel first 🤣 (obviously not recommended with any jet).

Only thing I did to the nose gear was add a small diameter CF tube in the channel of the plastic brace rod suggested by a friend with some 300 F18 flights, even though his never broke.

I've been following this thread probably from the beginning and honestly can't remember anyone even mentioning needing a nose gear mod. Wonder if Rich was talking about the E-Flight F-18. I'm not the sharpest tack in the pack, so could be wrong about this. 🤯

[Elbee]

Falcon195, Welcome to The Squawk. I have not seen the video you quoted; however, any strengthening of the mount is good if you're running 'grass ops'. Hugh Wiedman flies off grass and could give you the best answer if needed. Best, LB

[Falcon195]

Has anybody done the rcinformer front landing gear mod? I am ordering the extended battery tray to do this mod. Looks like it will beef up the front gear. What do you guys think

[davegee]

You can purchase the mounting hardware from Motion. They sell it as the 90mm F-16 ordinance mounting hardware. It's about $2 if I remember correctly. You could flush mount the female end in the bottom of the wings and put the male end on the top of the pylon to make them removable like the ordinance. I bought the hardware to make a removable mount for my runcam that I can mount on my freewing jets anywhere you can mount ordinance.

Thanks, Gvasiloff!

Davegee

[Gvasiloff]

I bought the ordnance package for the Freewing F-16 to try and use some of it on my Freewing F-18C. I will definitely use the AIM-9 Sidewinder missiles on the wingtips, but was wondering if anyone had put the pylons on the wings to hang the missiles. Outside of one slot on the bottom of the wings, I don't see any way to attach the pylons, and they aren't really the same shape as the ones on the real airplanes. I could probably live with that for now, but not sure how I would hook them on (without gluing them, which I really don't want to do). Any ideas, photos, tips?

Thanks,

Davegee

You can purchase the mounting hardware from Motion. They sell it as the 90mm F-16 ordinance mounting hardware. It's about $2 if I remember correctly. You could flush mount the female end in the bottom of the wings and put the male end on the top of the pylon to make them removable like the ordinance. I bought the hardware to make a removable mount for my runcam that I can mount on my freewing jets anywhere you can mount ordinance.

[davegee]

I bought the ordnance package for the Freewing F-16 to try and use some of it on my Freewing F-18C. I will definitely use the AIM-9 Sidewinder missiles on the wingtips, but was wondering if anyone had put the pylons on the wings to hang the missiles. Outside of one slot on the bottom of the wings, I don't see any way to attach the pylons, and they aren't really the same shape as the ones on the real airplanes. I could probably live with that for now, but not sure how I would hook them on (without gluing them, which I really don't want to do). Any ideas, photos, tips?

Thanks,

Davegee

[Cape Jets]

Well winter is here on Cape Cod in full force. Which means for us at the Otis Model Aero Club flying is halted till who knows when. So you southern flyers enjoy your time in the air.
On a side note for the F-18's. I have 2 F-18 Blue Angels- One with a Freewing 90mm 12 blade 1835KV EDF and one with the new Freewing 90mm 9 Blade 1900kv EDF. I got to say that I am impressed with the performance of the 9 Blade in this plane. Although the 12 Blade (which is heavier) and as a result changes your CG it does have a different sound and initial thrust may be alittle better, both in the air perform about the same and speed difference is not that noticeable . So I guess what I'm saying and that doesn't mean much is before you spend the money on the 12 Blade give the 9 Blade a chance and I think you will be happy with the performance.

[davegee]

While waiting for better weather/winds to maiden my new Freewing F-18C, I decided to improve the stock cockpit a bit. That grey interior didn't do anything for me. I pulled the canopy off and added a few details. I repainted the pilot to some photos I saw of the VFA-146 Blue Diamonds pilots back in the day and added some squadron patches to his helmet and shoulder. Added a paper instrument panel, some canopy handles and rear view mirrors, fabricated a rudimentary HUD, and repainted most of the grey interior black. I plan to use this cockpit pretty much for the maiden and several flights afterwards, and eventually get another cockpit and use Elbee's excellent stl files to make up a more scale and detailed cockpit.

Thanks, Aros. As I mentioned, my plan is to eventually get the stl parts made up courtesy of the hard design work of Elbee, and make a second cockpit that will be a very accurate representation of the Hornet. For now, with upcoming initial flights whenever the wind and weather improve someday, I'll use the stock cockpit. I just had to make a few improvements on it!

[Aros]

Nice touches davegee!

[davegee]

While waiting for better weather/winds to maiden my new Freewing F-18C, I decided to improve the stock cockpit a bit. That grey interior didn't do anything for me. I pulled the canopy off and added a few details. I repainted the pilot to some photos I saw of the VFA-146 Blue Diamonds pilots back in the day and added some squadron patches to his helmet and shoulder. Added a paper instrument panel, some canopy handles and rear view mirrors, fabricated a rudimentary HUD, and repainted most of the grey interior black. I plan to use this cockpit pretty much for the maiden and several flights afterwards, and eventually get another cockpit and use Elbee's excellent stl files to make up a more scale and detailed cockpit.

[davegee]

Yes Dave, the F-16 Ordinance is compatible. If you look at the photo of mine above, those on the wing tips are from the F-16.

Great, thanks, Hugh! I'm going to wait until I get a few flights in on the F-18, and when I get it dialed in, I'll order one of the ordnance/ drop tank packages for the F-16 to put on the Hornet.

Cheers

Dave

[Hugh Wiedman]

Question: I just got the new F-18C Freewing airplane which comes with no ordnance or stores for the wings or fuselage. I was wondering if anyone knew if the 90mm Freewing F-16C which does offer an ordnance package purchased separately is compatible with the F-18C? This package includes wing pylons, too. Are those compatible with the brackets on the wings of the F-18C?
Thanks for any thoughts on this.

davegee

Yes Dave, the F-16 Ordinance is compatible. If you look at the photo of mine above, those on the wing tips are from the F-16.

[davegee]

Question: I just got the new F-18C Freewing airplane which comes with no ordnance or stores for the wings or fuselage. I was wondering if anyone knew if the 90mm Freewing F-16C which does offer an ordnance package purchased separately is compatible with the F-18C? This package includes wing pylons, too. Are those compatible with the brackets on the wings of the F-18C?
Thanks for any thoughts on this.

davegee

[davegee]

One last recommendation, definitely run 2 separate wires to the AB controller, one for each LED cone. This makes each nozzle flicker independently and looks more like the F-18 actually has 2 separate engines. I use the 2S Admiral 450mah batteries for all my burners, gets about 15 minutes of flight time on these for the F-18. That of course depends on how you program the controller to start the flicker and your throttle management, and I use a ridiculously low throttle setting like 38% (comes at like 50% I think), so it looks like my pilot has a "lead foot". But if you got it, flaunt it.

Thanks for the great tips on adding the silver tape to enhance the A/B light look. I'll look through your directions and see if I can come up with something decent like yours came out.

Cheers

davegee

[Hugh Wiedman]

One last recommendation, definitely run 2 separate wires to the AB controller, one for each LED cone. This makes each nozzle flicker independently and looks more like the F-18 actually has 2 separate engines. I use the 2S Admiral 450mah batteries for all my burners, gets about 15 minutes of flight time on these for the F-18. That of course depends on how you program the controller to start the flicker and your throttle management, and I use a ridiculously low throttle setting like 38% (comes at like 50% I think), so it looks like my pilot has a "lead foot". But if you got it, flaunt it.

[Hugh Wiedman]

LET THERE BE LIGHT!

[Hugh Wiedman]

I'm not sure if I'll do that, but would still appreciate any tips on putting the aluminum tape in to brighten the burners, Hugh. My burner unit is on the way from San Diego, but won't be here for several days. I'd have time to put that tape in, at least in parts of the chambers to brighten it up some.

Thanks,

davegee

Give it a try, you'll definitely like it. A few tips:

1) Get some dowel rods about 2 feet long in 1/2" and 5/8" diameter, and round one of the ends on each (you'll use these to smooth down the aluminum tape and a sharp square end will tear it) See Photo #1
2) Remove the EDF and leave the motor hatch removed (which you will have to do to install the burner cone anyway).
3) First install a piece at the end of the nozzle laying at a 45 degree angle to the thrust. Don't worry, you'll cover the edge exposed to the thrust later as Evan D is 100% correct you do not want any forward facing edges. This is just to get a nice finished edge at the end of the nozzle.
4) Cut pieces the length needed to go from nozzle end to under the EDF shroud.
5) Before removing backing to expose the sticky back, shape the piece fairly straight and U shaped, with the backing on the outside and just get a corner of the backing pulled up.
6) "lightly" tape the 1/2" rod in the center of the U, with the rounded edge up front. (see photo #2 & #3)
7) Remove the entire backing, and make sure it is shaped in a nice U or even more closed at the top (but not too much that it sticks to the other side).
8) Now "like a surgeon" and with steady hands, put the rod up the nozzle without letting any section touch the inside of the nozzle. Put it in with the back just past your first "edge" you put at the end of the nozzle with most of it covering the piece you already put down.
9) Press the rod down in the center and roll it to get it to stick on the inside of the nozzle. The tape should come off, if not, reach in through the exposed EDF cover and press down where necessary. You can always trim any excess up front. Use the larger dowel rod to smooth it down along the entire piece like washing a toilet bowl with the beveled end. If you mess up a piece or you manage to get it to stick somewhere before you get it in the right place, pull it out before you press it down, cut a new piece and start over (yes, I've done that many times).
10) Repeat again and again and again until the entire area is covered, keeping in mind Evan's advice that all exposed edges run front to back, nothing facing the thrust, and starting up under the EDF shroud.

Then Ignite The Flame!!! :boom::fire:

[Evan D]

I agree it's worth the effort and it is a lot of effort on this. Just make sure you over lap edges so there isn't any forward facing edge then tuck the most forward edge under the fan shroud.

[davegee]

Likewise Evan D and davegee, hope everyone has a great Christmas and New Years! I also got the twin RC Geek burners in both mine and love 'em. Have his burners in every one of my EDF's except the A-10. If you have time and an hour of patience, I also recommend lining the exhaust nozzles with aluminum A/C tape. It's a bit of a pain with the bifurcated nozzles (same on the F-4), but IMO it more than doubles the light output. If you decide to do it (and maybe you've already done this on others), I can give you a few tips that makes it a little easier to install that I got from someone else here in the Squawk a while back.

I'm not sure if I'll do that, but would still appreciate any tips on putting the aluminum tape in to brighten the burners, Hugh. My burner unit is on the way from San Diego, but won't be here for several days. I'd have time to put that tape in, at least in parts of the chambers to brighten it up some.

Thanks,

davegee