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Official Freewing T-33 Shooting Star 80mm EDF Thread

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  • I wanted to share a quick landing light mod that takes about 10min and costs $5 to add to your T-33. All you need is 1X Freewing 5W White LED Light with 800mm Lead (SKU: E613) and some E6000 or Shoe-Goo. I trimmed off the eyelet ear, roughed up the aluminium backing with sand paper, roughed up the strut as well, and glued it to the strut. Clean, easy, and the light does not conflict when retracted. It plugs right into the MCB-E 'take-off' light port so that it is sequenced with the gear coming on when it comes down. For dusk flying this helped a lot on approach!

    5 Watt White LED Light with Grey Housing and 800mm Lead Length - E613 Specifications: LED Color: White Housing Color: White Wattage: 5W Lead Length: 80cm



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    • Ordered, thanks! That should look really cool at dusk.

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      • Originally posted by RCGuy83 View Post
        I wanted to share a quick landing light mod that takes about 10min and costs $5 to add to your T-33. All you need is 1X Freewing 5W White LED Light with 800mm Lead (SKU: E613) and some E6000 or Shoe-Goo. I trimmed off the eyelet ear, roughed up the aluminium backing with sand paper, roughed up the strut as well, and glued it to the strut. Clean, easy, and the light does not conflict when retracted. It plugs right into the MCB-E 'take-off' light port so that it is sequenced with the gear coming on when it comes down. For dusk flying this helped a lot on approach!

        5 Watt White LED Light with Grey Housing and 800mm Lead Length - E613 Specifications: LED Color: White Housing Color: White Wattage: 5W Lead Length: 80cm



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        Cool.

        Mike
        \"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"

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        • Need help someone. I have finished putting the T-Bird together. Bind the AR636A Spectrum and the esc arming. Plugged in flaps, rudder and gear plus the throttle and the only servo movement is the flaps. What am I doing wrong with the Blue Box???

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          • Originally posted by bmccool View Post
            Need help someone. I have finished putting the T-Bird together. Bind the AR636A Spectrum and the esc arming. Plugged in flaps, rudder and gear plus the throttle and the only servo movement is the flaps. What am I doing wrong with the Blue Box???
            You should tell us more details. Where did the RX come from? Did it come out of another plane? Did you buy a brand new, un-programmed unit? Have you gone into it with the smartphone APP and made sure all the control surfaces have been assigned to the proper ports? Does anything else work if you by-pass the BB?

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            • This rx came from another plane it worked there. Have NOT used any phone app didn't know there is one. Have NOT tried to bypass the blue box will do that now. Standby

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              • Can you show is a picture of how you plugged in the wires on the blue box and receiver? This may help everyone determine what the potential issue is.

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                • The nose gear will come down and the nosewheel steering works rudder, elevator and flaps work NO Ailerons

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                  • Only wing ribbons plugged into the blue box on the input side/block on the output block is the flap lead connected to the receiver and the flaps work

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                    • Main gear does not come down

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                      • Check the wing board connections where the servo wire leads from those control surface servos are plugged into. Make sure all is correctly seated and in the correct wing board slot locations. After that, check all connections to the blue board/box are correct and seated properly, then double check the receiver connections, as well as check all radio programming correlates to the proper receiver slots.

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                        • Do what T-Cat has said. If that doesn't give you success, then try to unplug each control separately and plug directly into the RX. If that works, then it's something to do with the BB. If that doesn't work, then it's likely something to with the RX. A 636 from another plane may not necessarily work the same way in a different plane. You should see what's programmed in there and then decide whether or not the RX needs to be updated and then reprogrammed to suit the plane it's going into. It's best to use the Bluetooth dongle and smartphone app to do this.

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                          • Originally posted by RCGuy83 View Post
                            I wanted to share a quick landing light mod that takes about 10min and costs $5 to add to your T-33. All you need is 1X Freewing 5W White LED Light with 800mm Lead (SKU: E613) and some E6000 or Shoe-Goo. I trimmed off the eyelet ear, roughed up the aluminium backing with sand paper, roughed up the strut as well, and glued it to the strut. Clean, easy, and the light does not conflict when retracted. It plugs right into the MCB-E 'take-off' light port so that it is sequenced with the gear coming on when it comes down. For dusk flying this helped a lot on approach!
                            Great minds and all... Earlier today, I ordered the nose gear landing light for the Freewing 90mm F-16 and will install it, probably very closely to how you've done it, when I comes in later this week. I've removed my blue box; so, I'll have to think about how I want to control it. Right now, all of my DX9 channels are taken up, but I can Y my elevator servos together to free up a port and can write a mix to power it when the gear is down.
                            ---
                            Warbirder

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                            • Ah, landing lights. I don't like the locomotive light. Here's my design for the small LED's. Less power, but bright enough. Unfortunately there are still no T-Birds around here in Europe....

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                              • Originally posted by Radar-Guy View Post
                                Ah, landing lights. I don't like the locomotive light. Here's my design for the small LED's. Less power, but bright enough. Unfortunately there are still no T-Birds around here in Europe....

                                ​​
                                Unfortunately none of pictures can be viewed

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                                • Originally posted by Phantom View Post

                                  Unfortunately none of pictures can be viewed
                                  Thanks, I saw the pics in the post on my PC. Edited, OK now?

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                                  • Originally posted by Radar-Guy View Post
                                    Ah, landing lights. I don't like the locomotive light. Here's my design for the small LED's. Less power, but bright enough. Unfortunately there are still no T-Birds around here in Europe....

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                                    Nice work Raydar guy. I might be enticed to add those to my T-33.

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                                    • Are there .stl files available?
                                      Current Hanger: FW, F4.F22,F14, Byron T-6, Top Flite P-47, Top Flite P-40, Top RC P-51 H9 P-51, SebArt Avanti, Yellow aircraft Spitfire, T Jeti Extreme Flight EDGE, DS-24 Carbon,

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                                      • Originally posted by e4dragongunner View Post
                                        Are there .stl files available?
                                        I'll publish the files once I got my T-33 and made sure that everything fits. There'll be cockpits parts as well.

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                                        • Guys, I had posted my "tip" about Post-it EXTREME notes for masking. While I stand by these as working great for many of my projects foamie repaint, I did discover yesterday that these post-it EXTREME notes, even de-tacked once on a teeshirt, will still lift the silver paint off of the Shooting Star. As I said, there is almost no adhesion of this paint. I was repairing the shipping wrinkles on my wingtip and limiting the repair to just that area and ended up pulling off the paint in the adjacent panel, which I then stripped completely with scotch tape before repainting. Luckily I started with the bottom, and it turned out well -- just took a while before I was satisfied with the match. Ended up mixing some medium gray with silver. I know it can look cool to slightly mis-match silver with panels, but if you can't do "enough" of it, it looks wrong in just one place, and with decals already applied, no chance to do this.

                                          I ended up using the dampened brown paper masking method which worked fine.

                                          Kind of a shame as the silver paint job is nicely done -- but if there's a primer over the foam, it's not doing anything so far as I can tell.

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