I wanted to share a quick landing light mod that takes about 10min and costs $5 to add to your T-33. All you need is 1X Freewing 5W White LED Light with 800mm Lead (SKU: E613) and some E6000 or Shoe-Goo. I trimmed off the eyelet ear, roughed up the aluminium backing with sand paper, roughed up the strut as well, and glued it to the strut. Clean, easy, and the light does not conflict when retracted. It plugs right into the MCB-E 'take-off' light port so that it is sequenced with the gear coming on when it comes down. For dusk flying this helped a lot on approach!
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Official Freewing T-33 Shooting Star 80mm EDF Thread
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Originally posted by RCGuy83 View PostI wanted to share a quick landing light mod that takes about 10min and costs $5 to add to your T-33. All you need is 1X Freewing 5W White LED Light with 800mm Lead (SKU: E613) and some E6000 or Shoe-Goo. I trimmed off the eyelet ear, roughed up the aluminium backing with sand paper, roughed up the strut as well, and glued it to the strut. Clean, easy, and the light does not conflict when retracted. It plugs right into the MCB-E 'take-off' light port so that it is sequenced with the gear coming on when it comes down. For dusk flying this helped a lot on approach!
https://www.motionrc.com/collections/led-lights/products/freewing-5w-white-led-light-with-800mm-lead5 Watt White LED Light with Grey Housing and 800mm Lead Length - E613 Specifications: LED Color: White Housing Color: White Wattage: 5W Lead Length: 80cm
Mike\"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"
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Originally posted by bmccool View PostNeed help someone. I have finished putting the T-Bird together. Bind the AR636A Spectrum and the esc arming. Plugged in flaps, rudder and gear plus the throttle and the only servo movement is the flaps. What am I doing wrong with the Blue Box???
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Check the wing board connections where the servo wire leads from those control surface servos are plugged into. Make sure all is correctly seated and in the correct wing board slot locations. After that, check all connections to the blue board/box are correct and seated properly, then double check the receiver connections, as well as check all radio programming correlates to the proper receiver slots.
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Do what T-Cat has said. If that doesn't give you success, then try to unplug each control separately and plug directly into the RX. If that works, then it's something to do with the BB. If that doesn't work, then it's likely something to with the RX. A 636 from another plane may not necessarily work the same way in a different plane. You should see what's programmed in there and then decide whether or not the RX needs to be updated and then reprogrammed to suit the plane it's going into. It's best to use the Bluetooth dongle and smartphone app to do this.
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Originally posted by RCGuy83 View PostI wanted to share a quick landing light mod that takes about 10min and costs $5 to add to your T-33. All you need is 1X Freewing 5W White LED Light with 800mm Lead (SKU: E613) and some E6000 or Shoe-Goo. I trimmed off the eyelet ear, roughed up the aluminium backing with sand paper, roughed up the strut as well, and glued it to the strut. Clean, easy, and the light does not conflict when retracted. It plugs right into the MCB-E 'take-off' light port so that it is sequenced with the gear coming on when it comes down. For dusk flying this helped a lot on approach!---
Warbirder
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Originally posted by Radar-Guy View Post
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Guys, I had posted my "tip" about Post-it EXTREME notes for masking. While I stand by these as working great for many of my projects foamie repaint, I did discover yesterday that these post-it EXTREME notes, even de-tacked once on a teeshirt, will still lift the silver paint off of the Shooting Star. As I said, there is almost no adhesion of this paint. I was repairing the shipping wrinkles on my wingtip and limiting the repair to just that area and ended up pulling off the paint in the adjacent panel, which I then stripped completely with scotch tape before repainting. Luckily I started with the bottom, and it turned out well -- just took a while before I was satisfied with the match. Ended up mixing some medium gray with silver. I know it can look cool to slightly mis-match silver with panels, but if you can't do "enough" of it, it looks wrong in just one place, and with decals already applied, no chance to do this.
I ended up using the dampened brown paper masking method which worked fine.
Kind of a shame as the silver paint job is nicely done -- but if there's a primer over the foam, it's not doing anything so far as I can tell.
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