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Official Freewing T-33 Shooting Star 80mm EDF Thread

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  • Flight times with the new 9 blade in-runner seem impressive. Would be interested in comments from those with both the T-33 and L-39 with 12 bladed in-runner whether there is a real difference in flight times between these two.

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    • As previously posted I'm getting an extra minute... 4 on the L and 5 on the T.

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      • Click image for larger version

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        I can't believe how smooth this went together. Not a flaw on it. It took me longer to straighten the shop than to assemble this one.

        Mike
        \"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"

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        • Originally posted by T-CAT View Post
          Ugh, more upside down decals. That's obnoxious. I hope they send us all a full decal sheet, not just the decal sheet for the bottom. It would be nice to fix some of these. There is nothing more unrealistic looking than upside down decals on an aircraft.

          there’s always this....
          Attached Files

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          • Originally posted by MikeT View Post
            Click image for larger version

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            I can't believe how smooth this went together. Not a flaw on it. It took me longer to straighten the shop than to assemble this one.

            Mike
            Looks really good Mike, glad to see yours had good fit and finish.

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            • Originally posted by Quickstop View Post


              there’s always this....
              I'll also add that not only upside down decals make for an unrealistic look, but the next thing is squeaky wheels like it's a shopping cart rolling around. The AL37 is terrible with its wheel sound, but some people say the T33 isn't all that pleasing with the wheel sound. I haven't flown it yet, so I can't confirm (but even by watching videos, the wheels are loud and clunky).

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              • I have heard this several times recently and wonder why modelers don't use a lube of some kind. Maybe they do and it's still bad. The problem is that noise is 'friction' and cannot be good on 'plastic' wheel hubs. White Lithium works for me. Flush now and again with alcohol and reapply. Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeezy. Also, I have drilled out the hubs and inserted K&S brass tubing. That fix really doesn't need any lube. Best, LB
                I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.
                ~Lucky B*st*rd~

                You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.
                ~Anonymous~

                AMA#116446

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                • Originally posted by Elbee View Post
                  I have heard this several times recently and wonder why modelers don't use a lube of some kind. Maybe they do and it's still bad. The problem is that noise is 'friction' and cannot be good on 'plastic' wheel hubs. White Lithium works for me. Flush now and again with alcohol and reapply. Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeezy. Also, I have drilled out the hubs and inserted K&S brass tubing. That fix really doesn't need any lube. Best, LB
                  That is true . The lubrication of the wheel hubs/axels does help, temporarily, and requires upkeep. Upkeep is fine as we do that already on other parts of the aircraft, and I'm okay with modifications preferred or needed on aircraft. However, it would be more beneficial to see the factory provide less friction bound material in their wheel hubs to keep squeaking to a minimum. Wheels can and will squeak, and have on past aircraft, but the AL37 was the start of a whole new level of squeaking .

                  Also, just to clarify in case my tone is mistaken, I enjoy Freewing products, and many of the designers/engineers ideas on these aircraft, and respect what they do. With that said, I like to provide input on some aspects I would like to see improved upon in case in ends up being part of the same request that many customers have. With enough customer interest and input, sometimes manufacturers alter or implement ideas/features that modelers requested and enjoy.

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                  • It seems more and more of the recent releases have the "shopping cart" wheel noise - Eflite EC1500, HobbyKing C-130, AL37, T-33. What's going on? I put a little machine oil on the EC1500 but the noise only stayed away for 2 flights. I do have some thick, heavy silicone grease (vacuum grease) that I'll try next. I also have the white lithium grease that comes in a spray can.

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                    • graphite dry lube works fantastic and does not collect dirt or need to be replaced, safe on plastic and holds up a long time.
                      rc flyin addict

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                      • Originally posted by Evan D View Post
                        As previously posted I'm getting an extra minute... 4 on the L and 5 on the T.
                        Thanks Evan, that's quite an uptick in efficiency between the two power systems/airframes.

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                        • Help a dumb Marine grunt! I am using a Spectrum AR636A receiver. When I bind it to the transmitter last night everything worked as it should. Tonight when I plugged in the battery and turned on the transmitter all I got was a constant beep every few seconds. Tried to rebind bitchen Betty said "Binding Complete" but no-joy on anything working and I get NO orange light on the receiver after the binding plug is removed. Battery plugged in just the same beeping from the receiver. What am I doing wrong????? HELP

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                          • Originally posted by bmccool View Post
                            Help a dumb Marine grunt! I am using a Spectrum AR636A receiver. When I bind it to the transmitter last night everything worked as it should. Tonight when I plugged in the battery and turned on the transmitter all I got was a constant beep every few seconds. Tried to rebind bitchen Betty said "Binding Complete" but no-joy on anything working and I get NO orange light on the receiver after the binding plug is removed. Battery plugged in just the same beeping from the receiver. What am I doing wrong????? HELP
                            If you did exactly as you wrote then that is the problem. ALWAYS turn the Tx on before pluggin power to the Rx EXCEPT when doing a bind.
                            Warbird Charlie
                            HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

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                            • Originally posted by OV10 View Post

                              If you did exactly as you wrote then that is the problem. ALWAYS turn the Tx on before pluggin power to the Rx EXCEPT when doing a bind.
                              This and also, is your throttle trim minimized?

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                              • Ok sitting here turned on receiver (plugged in the battery) then Trans on throttle trim and just get the beep every couple of seconds.

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                                • no trim at all on throttle

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                                  • I still recommend some pictures or a video of the issues that are occurring , such as how the control box, receiver, and transmitter are plugged in, etc. Like the old saying goes, "a picture is worth a thousand words".

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                                    • I agree but I have removed the BB and ribbons and have all servos going directly into the receiver

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                                      • Did you try a different receiver to rule out that variable? I know that was suggested previously.

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                                        • Originally posted by bmccool View Post
                                          I agree but I have removed the BB and ribbons and have all servos going directly into the receiver
                                          Is your throttle stick all the way down as well? Also if you had the stick up at all when initiating the rx ...it goes into programming mode after about 10 seconds...you might be stuck in programming mode.

                                          You can also try calibrating the tx sticks. Plug in rx with tx throttle at max...wait for a beep, then full down...wait for confirmation beep. If it's not doing that, you might be stuck in programming mode. Look up your receiver manual and learn what the beeps mean...then cycle through the menu.

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