Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan
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I went to 105mm, but my Corsair was heavy overall with all the mods I made to her. I will remove some nose weight and use a lighter battery 5000 vs 6250 mah for the next round of flights. I will still use 105 as my CG. I will use the low rate for starters and readjust my high rates closer to the OEM low rates. This model wants to fly from the start. I didn't use any T/O flaps and she was up and away before I realized it. Very stable once on step and half to 2/3 throttle is more the sufficient for great flight times. -
Thanks LB. From what I know about corsairs is that they are pitch sensitive. I’m gonna start with low rates on the elevator.
is manual cg good? 100mm? -
Hi everyone, I’m about to assemble this model. Can I rely on the manual for rates? Particularly elevator rates?Leave a comment:
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Yep, Buffalo Bill delivered himself or tried to back when he rode Pony Express, ah the stories that envelope could tell
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At least they arrived, we had a Christmas card from one of our daughters that got here just in time for the following Christmas and she's in Idaho!
Maybe the Pony Express wasn't such a bad idea after all lets see, it got replaced by the telegram which is extinct now as well, wonder how they delivered parcels??Oh yeah, Federal Express, known as Wells Fargo. Of course this is Wyoming have to watch out for the Wild Bunch and the infamous Kid Chleen!



Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)
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Dan,
Looks like it has seen many Indian fights and dropped on many Bordello floors. Wonder what the Pony Express rider looks like, and his horse?
Glad it finally made it, gives me hope in our federal gov't using our money wisely. LOL!
RexLeave a comment:
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Thanks, I have done a TON of these R2800 wiring harnesses! Any questions, let me know.
You can see what the Corsair V3 prop looks like on this airplane. The differences are distinct and impressive when compared to the OEM prop from FMS. Still, I think doing your initial maiden and testing with the plane is good to do with the OEM prop, which I think you said you were going to do. Then you'll be ready for the bigger prop, which is not a big deal.
Best,
DavegeeLeave a comment:
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Davegee,
That is what I will try to do when I get to detailing the engine. Yours look real.
Best Regards, RexLeave a comment:
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I have been using the technique of photo copying the OEM cylinders for many years and then cut to fit paper copies in the gaps to give the impression of cylinders behind and in between the front row of 9 cylinders. Regarding the wiring harness for this engine, there were several different types and colors of them around the crankcase, but in all instances, at each point where a sparkplug wire comes out of the harness, it is paired with another wire that goes over the top of the cylinder and attaches to the other sparkplug (made to look like that for these models) on the back of each cylinder head. Ends up being a lot of wires but it looks pretty cool, even for a foamie. That's just my take on how I do them. Ignition wires varied from black to silver to gold, and probably others, too. Here is what I did with my FMS P-47D Penrod and Sam. The Corsair, Hellcat, and P-47 all used the same R2800 P&W engine, so they are all pretty similar.Grossman56


photocopying the back row is a stoke of genius, but no, I printed 3 separate parts: a thin back section, center section and front section.
Glued those together with thin CA.
I painted parts as needed for assembly and then added the plug wire detail.
The tricky part was cutting back the foam to accommodate the depth of the P&W Model.
I had to cut back the motor mount and design a stiffener to reinforce the mount to the foam.
This had to stay square to the world while not change the thrust angles built into the OEM design.
This might have been over-kill as they say, but for me, I was in uncharted lands and wanted all to be solid.
In the end, it all worked out and was worth the effort, I think.
Best, LB
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I recall, the work you put in is almost as difficult as restoring the real thing!
Dave came up with the idea of taking a picture adjusting it to size (which was very simple in Adobe Elements) and cocking the picture one cylinder over and gluing it in. Once in position, a bit of carving on the paper, which ends up looking like an inner tube, and there's your back row of cylinders.
Reassembled the old girl to see how 'salty' she looked. A couple of palm trees in the back and she's good.
My salty marine!
Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)Leave a comment:
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Grossman56


photocopying the back row is a stoke of genius, but no, I printed 3 separate parts: a thin back section, center section and front section.
Glued those together with thin CA.
I painted parts as needed for assembly and then added the plug wire detail.
The tricky part was cutting back the foam to accommodate the depth of the P&W Model.
I had to cut back the motor mount and design a stiffener to reinforce the mount to the foam.
This had to stay square to the world while not change the thrust angles built into the OEM design.
This might have been over-kill as they say, but for me, I was in uncharted lands and wanted all to be solid.
In the end, it all worked out and was worth the effort, I think.
Best, LB
6 PhotosLeave a comment:
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Looks Great!
Did you photo copy the back cylinders or was that a 3D print as well?
At any rate, the result is very realistic.
Grossman56 (Dangerous Dan)Leave a comment:
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