Official Nexa OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF Discussion Thread

[DCORSAIR]

DC, what is leading me to my inquiry is that in the first pic above, those open slots in the lower arm seems to indicate that a wire is placed in the mold and then it incases the wire/axle to form the lower strut I dont see similar slots in the upper portion of the other strut unless they may be on the opposite side. Maybe we can get MRC guru's to give some insight to our inquiries and offer some help. I believe these are the best bet in a working conversion for the OV-10 and with possibly some minimal work to "play" the part.
Can you give the diameter of the nose wheel please just for clarification?
Sam

I will get you guys more pics and info when I get home from work this evening, I don't have a nose gear retract to have I'm my hand, only the mains but I can do my best to measure the nose gear that's installed on my Yak and take some pics of that as well, also will show you what the guy did that I bought the Yak from and how he made the weak part of the rear retract stronger, it's held up well.:Cool:

[OV10]

I will get you guys more pics and info when I get home from work this evening, I don't have a nose gear retract to have I'm my hand, only the mains but I can do my best to measure the nose gear that's installed on my Yak and take some pics of that as well, also will show you what the guy did that I bought the Yak from and how he made the weak part of the rear retract stronger, it's held up well.:Cool:

Thanx for the nose gear measure offer DC but Sam and I both have one of those buggars in our modder mitts ;)

[DCORSAIR]

Thanx for the nose gear measure offer DC but Sam and I both have one of those buggars in our modder mitts ;)

Ok, I called the guy that modded the rear mains on my Yak, he said the wire coming out of the retract is molded into the plastic and not that far down either and the rest is solid plastic on down and with the Yak being heavy the plastic part of the strut will crack, don't know how heavy your Bronco will be but these might be kind of weak for something heavier than the Yak.:Cool:

[Boots Whirlygig]

I’d like to see pictures/dimensions of the Yak nose gear CB! Unfortunately, I just don’t think there’s space for the Yak gear, unless you don’t install tires that is!:Thinking:

[Boots Whirlygig]

I hope to be proven wrong on the LG, but if you don’t want tiny tires you’ll likely have to use straight struts and not much of a trailing link.

[TiredIronGRB]

I hope to be proven wrong on the LG, but if you don’t want tiny tires you’ll likely have to use straight struts and not much of a trailing link.

Freewing 90mm Yak-130 Nose gear and Freewing 90mm T-45 mains and call it done :Cool:

[OV10]

Freewing 90mm Yak-130 Nose gear and Freewing 90mm T-45 mains and call it done :Cool:

That is EXACTLY what I was thinking after hearing that the YAK mains were not completely metal under the plastic;)

[TiredIronGRB]

That is EXACTLY what I was thinking after hearing that the YAK mains were not completely metal under the plastic;)

Yeah, it would be good enough on these small OV-10s :P

[OV10]

I’d like to see pictures/dimensions of the Yak nose gear CB! Unfortunately, I just don’t think there’s space for the Yak gear, unless you don’t install tires that is!:Thinking:

Ask and you will receive bud ;)
It is presently configured as the tail gear that I took off the Seagull Models A-1 Skyraider that was lost in the NEFI Triangle in 2016. :(

[DCORSAIR]

Ok, here is a picture of my Yak gear that has been modded to be stronger, this is where the part is solid plastic and will break in half.

[TiredIronGRB]

Ask and you will receive bud ;)
It is presently configured as the tail gear that I took off the Seagull Models A-1 Skyraider that was lost in the NEFI Triangle in 2016. :(

F-4 nose wheel works as well.

[OV10]

And I do have experience with the T-45 mains from over 2 years ago when I used the right main as a nose gear for the FL Tigercat ;)

https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc-airplanes/warbirds/57545-fliteline-f7f-tigercat-nose-gear-upgrade-alternative

Now the ol' chemobrain is churnin:P

[OV10]

Ok, here is a picture of my Yak gear that has been modded to be stronger, this is where the part is solid plastic and will break in half.

:Cool: That idea keeps it in the running but am leaning towards the T-45 mains now

[DCORSAIR]

:Cool: That idea keeps it in the running but am leaning towards the T-45 mains now

Yep, I would go with the T-45 or something else, these Yak mains are huge anyway, don't see how you guys could get them retracted up into the bays of that Bronco..:Confused:

[OV10]

F-4 nose wheel works as well.

No way,,,,,,,,straight strut with scissor link. Not even close to scale looking :PLOL

[TiredIronGRB]

No way,,,,,,,,straight strut with scissor link. Not even close to scale looking :PLOL

Not the whole strut, just one of the wheels :Whew:

[Boots Whirlygig]

Here is the 90mm Vampire nose gear with its 45mm wheel. Overall 120mm.

[OV10]

Not the whole strut, just one of the wheels :Whew:

It's only 44mm dia which is 20mm too small:Straight-Face:

[Boots Whirlygig]

I’ve got my motors and props and spinners worked out. The FMS 1400 Zero spinners are 60mm. Near perfect. I’m using the FMS F8F props. The hubs are the same thickness as the Zekes 13/9 blades, but you must grind down the Tiger cat prop hubs to fit the spinner. The screw spacing is also different, so i used the outer most screws to mount and re-drilled the inner screw thru the prop hub. I used a Dremel drill press. Easy cheesy lemon :Cool:squeezy.

[Alpha]

Looking good so far, Boots! I admire your ingenuity! That's always the most fun part about putting together a balsa KIT or ARF.