Has anyone thought of a suitable nose landing light yet? Im trying some sets i have on hand but also thinking of a home made setup using led flashlight bulbs so just a thought. Also checking on current lighting systems without spending over $75 but wanting the brightest light i can find for the landing light.
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Official Nexa OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF Discussion Thread
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Originally posted by Rosytime View PostI too say that 60s are overkill. Mine is set up for 5s and today I flew it with the 5000 mah lipos on board. After going from the original 4s set up, I was able to take out 4 oz of weight in the nose due to the heavier batteries. With my E-Flite 32s I have plenty of power and most of the flight is just above half throttle. 46s would be the biggest I would say if you want some more power. For those of you using the X-Wave retracts, how are you making the nose wheel steering with those retracts. I got one to see how they are and I see that you will have to drill out the trunnion block and find a pin to go in there from another nose wheel retract. I asked Motion if they are going to make a steerable retract and was told no. I'm currently using an E-Flite nose wheel retract for a 60-90 size and it works well although the wheel doesn't go all the way up in the wheel well. I can live with that since I'm not a super scale guy. Overall I love the way it flies.
Mike.\"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"
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Originally posted by MikeT View Post
I just used the stock spring that was included as far as holding in the strut. It seems fine and I think will do the trick. I like the simplicity of the whole thing.
Mike.
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Originally posted by sam51401 View PostHas anyone thought of a suitable nose landing light yet? Im trying some sets i have on hand but also thinking of a home made setup using led flashlight bulbs so just a thought. Also checking on current lighting systems without spending over $75 but wanting the brightest light i can find for the landing light.
To fabricate the clear lens, if it were me, I'd drape a thin microfiber cloth over the nose, then heat a piece of clear plastic sheet briefly (Plastic soda bottles are ideal for this type of DIY fabricating). Once the sheet is malleable, I'd push it against the nose to contour the sheet to match the nose's shape. In practice, the entire process should take 5-10 seconds from start to finish, including one or two seconds to heat the plastic just enough so it becomes soft. The sheet will cool and harden again in seconds, and while you're still holding the sheet up against the nose, sketch the circle for the lens itself with a Sharpie, and mark the vertical and horizontal datum lines for the fuselage. This will help you realign your new lens after you've cut it out from the plastic. Use it as a stencil to transfer the shape onto the nose, then drill the nose and mount your LED behind it.
Note, the ProFly Bronco's nose is shaped from a layered balsa block that is hollow but with thick walls. If memory serves, it's about half an inch thick, so prepare to drill more deeply than you would on other areas such as the fuselage or wing.
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Originally posted by MikeT View PostI had no clue there was a build video.
Mike
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Wish that had been done when it first came out. Would have answered a lot of questions that we had being the first buyers. Luckily I have been in this hobby long enough to figure out the different ways to complete a model build. The video about the front gear set-up using the X-Wave retracts now makes sense although I have never seen it done that particular way. I wondered what that spring was for on the strut and now I know. I might even change over to that system although the E-flite retract works fine. I still think the 180 degree turn on the steering wire needs to be addressed since it will cut into the plastic tube eventually.
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Originally posted by Rosytime View PostI too say that 60s are overkill. Mine is set up for 5s and today I flew it with the 5000 mah lipos on board. After going from the original 4s set up, I was able to take out 4 oz of weight in the nose due to the heavier batteries. With my E-Flite 32s I have plenty of power and most of the flight is just above half throttle. 46s would be the biggest I would say if you want some more power. For those of you using the X-Wave retracts, how are you making the nose wheel steering with those retracts. I got one to see how they are and I see that you will have to drill out the trunnion block and find a pin to go in there from another nose wheel retract. I asked Motion if they are going to make a steerable retract and was told no. I'm currently using an E-Flite nose wheel retract for a 60-90 size and it works well although the wheel doesn't go all the way up in the wheel well. I can live with that since I'm not a super scale guy. Overall I love the way it flies.
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Originally posted by MikeT View PostI’m talking with Callie on the sizing issues what do you all think ?
Mike
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Originally posted by Kangi1954 View Post
I ordered the set with the shark mouth and wasn’t happy with any of the sizing. Lettering too big, star and stripe emblems too small. Shark mouth too big. Propeller warning way too long. Really was not happy. Callie replaced lettering and numbers free of charge. Decided not to use the shark mouth for now. Everything else I used from the kit.
Mike\"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"
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Originally posted by Kangi1954 View Post
The upper setscrew in the retract is screwed into the groove in the strut. This was the answer when I asked MRC about this exact issue. I did it and it seems to work fine.
Mike\"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"
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Originally posted by MikeT View Post
Mine was drilled to shallow to use that setscrew.
Mike
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I had the same problem with some of the sizing from Callie. I sent her a photo of the decal set and put a ruler next to the one's that were too big. She sent me back the corrected sizes at no charge. If you start looking at photos from the full scale Bronco you will see that the size of the livery is all over the place depending on what service and date it was flying at the time. My Marine decal on the booms is a little too big but looks fine too me, I'm not a scale nit picker. And yes the Danger propeller decal was way too big. Like I said, Callie took care of me with no problem.
On to my next question, if any of you are not using the front strut that comes with the kit, i would like to buy it from you. I'm using the front strut with an E-Flite retract with a 5mm pin. I did have to drill out the trunion for the pin. I have an X-wave retract and would like to try it with the pin that comes on it, as per the video, but have lost that pin. I really don't want to purchase a complete gear set plus they are out of stock. Please pm me if you're interested.
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Callie's great with revisions and she has always responded promptly to my requests. I've found that providing her with actual measurements, such the diameter of a roundel, or the width of a letter, greatly enhances her ability to nail the proportions on the first try. She's designing on a 2D space for a decal that will conform to a 3D object, and a few degrees of curvature can significantly impact a decal. With enough references to dimension and position, especially with a flexible measuring tape (used for clothing) instead of an inflexible ruler, Callie's job is made much simpler.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
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I ordered the VMO 2 graphics and applied the tail and boom markings with all so far well proportioned. I'm working on the top of wing and will finish with the cockpit so should be ok. If anyone wants, I have the reprinted manual that gives nomenclature size and placement for the Marine version.
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Hey bbolz, There is a YT video that is done on the two Broncos at the Ft Worth Aviation Museum that you can get some good ref from. You might also check any plastic build pics of the 1/32 kit from Kitty Hawk of which i bought the kit for just this reason.
Walk around, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWi7xYE2JWg
Lots of model pics using this search term, "kitty hawk ov-10a build"
Enjoy
Found the link to the build thread of the Uravitch 81" version which has some detailed photos scattered about in it. I found hinge detail for the rear tail cone, hint hint!
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