Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[Aros]

Congrats! Nice flight! Love your flying field...Maiden landings are always tricky since you have no way to gauge her characteristics yet...Could have been a fantastic touch and go, lol... Seriously though congrats and nice job.

[Sky Wolf]

Managed a few flights today with the P-38. This is my first flight with the Mobius mounted on the plane.

Lon, love that field!!!...great flight too, but man I love that field!!! Wish we had a crossed runway. Congrats on the P-38/mobius combo maiden.

[Grossman56]

Can't wait to see her in person Lon, not long now!

Grossman56

[Lon]

Lon, love that field!!!...great flight too, but man I love that field!!! Wish we had a crossed runway. Congrats on the P-38/mobius combo maiden.

Thanks Sky Wolf! The field is the nicest i've been to.

[Lon]

Can't wait to see her in person Lon, not long now!

Grossman56

I'm counting the days now. Going to make sure and do some flights with the Mobius on her there at Muncie.

[Grossman56]

yeah, great idea! Should be a great birds eye view!!

Grossman56

[Flyer Phill]

Hopefully if the weather is calm on Sunday, miss piggy will fly!!





I added a HobbyEagle A3 Super II gyro for those days when the wind doesn't want to play nicely!



Oh and btw, Callie is sending me the missing nose serial #

[MikeT]

Ran across a interesting issue. I cannot get the ESC's calibrated. I still get one spinning up before the other and not a small amount either. I've tried calibrating them together and separate. there's no way I flying this till there closer. Any thoughts?

Mike

[MikeT]

Brad over at Motion got me squared away on my ESC calibration. Can't Thank him enough.

Mike

[downwindleg]

Hi Gang, Sometime ago someone posted detailed info on changing out the nose wheel strut to the freewing P-51 strut which involved opening up the retract unit itself and I can't seem to find it in the postings. Can someone repost or post the original post #. Thanks, Brad

[rtwatkins]

I assume then for the lights that the ground (black) are included with the others and the positive(red) are the "N" and "L" correct?
BTW, I found the plugs in stock at Dreamworks Model Products.

Correct Roys... for the lights, since they are sequenced from the board you will need to make sure that their positive wires are separate from each other as well as the servo power leads so they can be sequenced properly ("N" for navigation light and "L" for landing light). Servo control signals are over the 3rd wire in the set (yellow or white) so those are broken out into individual pins, while their power leads (red) are all wired up together. all the ground leads (black & brown) from both the lights and the servos can be bundled together. When all done, you've got ALE signal, Flap signal, Nav light, landing light, servo power & common ground on the port wing setup, and ALE signal, Flap signal, Nav light, servo power & common ground on the starboard wing setup.

[Grossman56]

Hi Gang, Sometime ago someone posted detailed info on changing out the nose wheel strut to the freewing P-51 strut which involved opening up the retract unit itself and I can't seem to find it in the postings. Can someone repost or post the original post #. Thanks, Brad

http://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc-airplanes/propeller-airplanes/35457-tired-iron-s-p-38-build/page2

This might be the one you're looking for

Grossman56

[Flyer Phill]

Some more pics of my P-38 ready to go. Maiden may not be this weekend as it's blowing a gale outside and all reports state that it will be same on Sunday!

[Aros]

Wow Flyer Phill what a beauty! Just gorgeous. I am so impressed with the quality mods and liveries I've seen folks do with this great model. I love seeing the various liveries and not just the ubiquitous ones either (as cool as they are too).

[Flyer Phill]

Thanks Aros. No maiden today but hopefully next weekend!

[Grossman56]

I'm telling you guys, this landing gear mod is pure gold, it needs to be made into an 'add on' kit where a guy can buy it and bolt it in. Not only does it add to the authentic look, but it had to add to the resilience of the landing gear.

Great job and way to go to all of the people who took the time to create these mods.
I'm one of the guys who doesn't own one (yet) but I'd really feel the arm being twisted if this add on kit was offered.

Grossman56

[downwindleg]

Thanks Grossman 56 for the info on the post regarding the nose wheel mod and Flyer Phil, outstanding job on your 38!!! I'd like to know how you connected your nose wheel strut. I started with Tired Iron's setup and took a little different direction. First, to be clear, I started with the freewing mustang main strut. Instead of drilling through the strut, I backed out one of the grub screws at the top of the strut. I replaced the grub screw with the appropriately threaded machine screw, m4x70, and cut it off about 3/8" outside the strut cylinder after screwing it in with loctite of course. Then I took the original tiller arm and cut it off flat removing about 2/3 of the barrel that slips over the strut wire, just about flush to the tiller arm side of the strut wire hole. Then, I put the tiller arm in a drilling vise on my drill press and drilled a hole into the new flat surface on the inside of the barrel straight out and in line with the tiller arm facing down with a number 33 drill bit followed by tapping the hole with an m4x70 tap. Then, I screwed the tiller arm on to the machine screw sticking out until it came up snug to the side of the strut. It took a little grinding on the flat side of the tiller arm to get it to snug up in the right orientation but it worked out well. Using the original tiller arm seemed like the best approach so that I could use the original linkage. Hopefully, this will work once all the loctite has dried. I will post pictures or explain further if anyone wants. Thanks, Brad

[downwindleg]

Hey everybody, Happy Memorial Day! I have been thinking about a video camera for the planes like a mobius, etc. but I'm wondering if it is possible to get a different "shutter speed" like film cameras so the props look realistic spinning instead of a sushi chef on steroids. If anyone has any input, I would appreciate it because I've already told you more than I know !! Thanks, Brad

[xviper]

Mobius or any other "key chain" type cameras don't have very much in the way of shutter speed selection. I think they offer you 30fps or 60fps. I've tried both and both give the same prop effect. It just doesn't bother me anymore or I try not to put them behind a prop. I've even strapped a Sony Webbie onto a plane and the same thing occurs. I don't have one, but the GoPros seem to do the same thing and of course, their profile to wind is bigger and create more drag - fine for mounting on someone's helmet but not good for a model airplane.
For making videos of the plane from where you are standing, choose the standard lens. The wide angle lens makes everything just too small. Same goes for mounting on a plane. I don't know for what application where one would want such a wide angle image. What would be great is to have one of these little cams with zoom. My Sony has zoom and it really brings out the details in what you're trying to capture when mounted on a plane but the Webbie is somewhat heavy.

[Flygirl]

Hey everybody, Happy Memorial Day! I have been thinking about a video camera for the planes like a mobius, etc. but I'm wondering if it is possible to get a different "shutter speed" like film cameras so the props look realistic spinning instead of a sushi chef on steroids. If anyone has any input, I would appreciate it because I've already told you more than I know !! Thanks, Brad

I can't think of one that will eliminate the "sushi" blades Brad.... The Mobius works great otherwise and being so little and fairly light it can be placed in a lot of places and produce very good visuals.