Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[TiredIronGRB]

The control arm won't be centered when you power up...my control rod ends are threaded in about halfway. I adjusted mine with the receiver powered and trim zeroed.

[Aros]

I had that same exact problem Arycon...I tried popping out the servos to reclock the arm but I could not get those suckers out without damaging the surrounding foam so I abandoned that idea. I ended up taking a standard clevis and connecting it to the ball link clevis and wrapping it so it stays secure. It's odd, but it works!

Here's a small mod review I put together. I apologize for the poor lighting and shaky camera...I was holding my Mobius while reviewing...

[Veltro]

I fly mainly giant-scale balsa and ply, and I am not really a fan of foam aircraft, but it seems that reading through this thread, that there is definitely some love going on here for this P-38. I am doing some strong rethinking about this foam plane.

We lost our giant scale field a few years ago. My friends started flying foamies at a smaller club. I resisted, but finally joined them. I have to say I've been having a lot of fun. There's a little bit of a learning curve and new equipment to buy, but nothing major. I have everything I need to build a Ziroli P-38, so I couldn't let this P-38 pass by. The scale outline, performance, flight time, and the features are exceptional. Mine arrived yesterday and I'm pleased with what I got. And Motion is the best in terms of price, quality and customer service.

[dkalwishky]

Great video Aros!

[Pheonix]

What kind of mesh did you use for the cowl and radiators?

[Arycon]

The control arm won't be centered when you power up...my control rod ends are threaded in about halfway. I adjusted mine with the receiver powered and trim zeroed.

The flap control arms centered once the electronics were connected and the lipos hooked up. Every servo was. It came like this right out of the box. I either have to find matching control rods from rod stock or cut into the foam to reach the control arm screw. So either the inboard flap control rods are short for some of us, or the servo arm isn't in the proper position from the factory. For the record, my outboard flap servos are also centered from the factory and the control rods reach just fine.

For anyone with flush inboard flaps that have normal operation...can you confirm the zeroed position of your servo arms with flaps "up?" I'm trying to confirm if the rods are short or if the arms need to be shifted to angle more after.

Thanks.

[TiredIronGRB]

That's strange...I'm out of town or I would post some pictures of mine, the arm on the inner flap servo is almost against the wing on mine.

[PlaneCrazy]

The flap control arms centered once the electronics were connected and the lipos hooked up. Every servo was. It came like this right out of the box. I either have to find matching control rods from rod stock or cut into the foam to reach the control arm screw. So either the inboard flap control rods are short for some of us, or the servo arm isn't in the proper position from the factory. For the record, my outboard flap servos are also centered from the factory and the control rods reach just fine.

For anyone with flush inboard flaps that have normal operation...can you confirm the zeroed position of your servo arms with flaps "up?" I'm trying to confirm if the rods are short or if the arms need to be shifted to angle more after.

Thanks.

OK, so if your radio has these functions, use endpoints or subtrim to move the servo arms off of center until the flap servo arms are pointing back toward the flaps. That should take care of the problem and you will have tons of throw. The flap servos should not be centered! They should always be pointed toward the flap or you will never have enough throw.

[crxmanpat]

Has anyone come up with a good way to remove the radiator decals on the sliver version? My usual methods aren't working. Hot water takes the nose decal off nicely. Thanks.

I just painted right over mine. You can't even tell they were there.

[crxmanpat]

The flap control arms centered once the electronics were connected and the lipos hooked up. Every servo was. It came like this right out of the box. I either have to find matching control rods from rod stock or cut into the foam to reach the control arm screw. So either the inboard flap control rods are short for some of us, or the servo arm isn't in the proper position from the factory. For the record, my outboard flap servos are also centered from the factory and the control rods reach just fine.

For anyone with flush inboard flaps that have normal operation...can you confirm the zeroed position of your servo arms with flaps "up?" I'm trying to confirm if the rods are short or if the arms need to be shifted to angle more after.

Thanks.

Here are pics of my inboard flaps, in both the full up position, and full down.

[crxmanpat]

So far I've put a couple coats of silver enamel paint over the clear plastic light lenses, and I have to say it looks much better, especially on the formation lights!

[Aros]

Thanks dkalwishky! Nothing fancy obviously... Pheonix, I used this stuff for the mesh:



My control arms on my inboard flaps are centered which has been the problem. Since it's all Y'd I can't adjust the end points individually, it affects all 4 flap servos.

[tdevince]

The flap control arms centered once the electronics were connected and the lipos hooked up. Every servo was. It came like this right out of the box. I either have to find matching control rods from rod stock or cut into the foam to reach the control arm screw. So either the inboard flap control rods are short for some of us, or the servo arm isn't in the proper position from the factory. For the record, my outboard flap servos are also centered from the factory and the control rods reach just fine.

For anyone with flush inboard flaps that have normal operation...can you confirm the zeroed position of your servo arms with flaps "up?" I'm trying to confirm if the rods are short or if the arms need to be shifted to angle more after.

Thanks.

OK, so if your radio has these functions, use endpoints or subtrim to move the servo arms off of center until the flap servo arms are pointing back toward the flaps. That should take care of the problem and you will have tons of throw. The flap servos should not be centered! They should always be pointed toward the flap or you will never have enough throw.

If you have your flap channel on your radio in the flaps up position, another option might be to reverse that channel and see if it arm goes toward the trailing edge.

[tdevince]

Aros,
In your video on your maiden it looks like your runway is about as rough a grass field as mine. Do you have any problems with the roughness of the field bending your gear aft? After a few take off/landings I have a slight bend aft in my Nose and Mains. I'm wondering if raking forward might help to prevent this.

[PlaneCrazy]

If you have your flap channel on your radio in the flaps up position, another option might be to reverse that channel and see if it arm goes toward the trailing edge.

When all else failed and I had to mechanically pull the servo arms off to reposition them, I cut a small V groove in the area adjacent to the servo arm screw, just enough to get a small phillips screwdriver head in there. It didn't make much of a mess but allowed me to remove the screw, reposition the arm and then replace the screw. I've done this on a couple of foamies and everything worked out fine.

[Aros]

Aros,
In your video on your maiden it looks like your runway is about as rough a grass field as mine. Do you have any problems with the roughness of the field bending your gear aft? After a few take off/landings I have a slight bend aft in my Nose and Mains. I'm wondering if raking forward might help to prevent this.

I didn't notice anything after the maiden and I have since raked the gear. I just had my second sortie a few minutes ago, and had to land in the track's grass area (about the same roughness as the soccer field) and they are still nice and raked forward...So far so good.

[tdevince]

I didn't notice anything after the maiden and I have since raked the gear. I just had my second sortie a few minutes ago, and had to land in the track's grass area (about the same roughness as the soccer field) and they are still nice and raked forward...So far so good.

Thanks,
I straighten my nose gear and bent it a little forward to give a slight rake. Hopefully that will help. When summer comes and our grass field fills out a little more it should reduce the bumpiness that the runway currently has. I am so envious of those with paved runways :)

The other thing I find hard to comprehend....you've had this bird put together since Sat. and just now you've only put a second flight on it? LOL, just playing with you...I took mine to work yesterday so that I could get a few battery sets through it after work. I do love the way she looks in the air.

[Aros]

Yeah tell me about it! This is the time of year where outdoor sports activities kick in which really reduces my chances to fly at the school. I guess it's time to renew my membership at my old club field.

Took her to the football track...There were more people there walking around then I wanted (not to mention some kids that were stealing my focus a bit as they peppered me with comments and questions while flying) but I was jonesing to fly so I went for it. I am so pleased with this P-38 on so many levels. So docile yet has the power when you need it. Very scale, very happy!

Had to land in the grass section of the track due to some people walking on my runway as I was coming in (how dare they? lol)

[Arycon]

I got my servo arms sorted. Just needed a slight aft angle and some further end point adjustment and they are fine.

What lipo may are most of you using? I have yet to maiden and am thinking the 3000mah packs are too small. This plane can easily handle 3300's and maybe even 4000's. He anyone flown with either? How does the plane handle the extra weight?

[tdevince]

I use a couple of 3000's and I'm easily getting 6 minutes with mixed flying. With the 3000's my CG is about 72mm, the manual recommends 65mm. Alpha's build video gives a range of 65-75. Heavier batteries will get you a little more forward but not to where you have to worry about running out of the CG range.