Official FlightLine OV-10 Bronco Discussion Thread

[Evan D]

I have the same mix and it does help. Congrats!

Had a successful maiden today and 4 extra flights on her using hrb 4s 5000 7 minutes still with 60% left on the batteries wow ....prob go 10 min no problem..
using the new ar620 receiver and Dx-20 radio
no issues We did add rudder trim to Ail mix 20% rudd and really helps her in the turns ..

[KC8REH]

I tookoff and made a right turn to the downwind led. Abeam of the takeoff point it started a roll to the left, I applied right ailerons to correct with no response from the ailerons. Telemetry showed no loss of signal and no holds. It went in at full power in a nose down attitude. Power was killed just prior to impact with the throttle cut.

[KC8REH]

Post crash control check did not have any problems with the primary surfaces. Other than the ailerons and rudders were distroyed

[flgboy]

I just purchased a Fliteline OV10a bronco. I attached one motor and ESC to my receiver along with the BEC. One motor runs. However, the other motor will not run. I have the throttle in the correct position on both an AR610 receiver and a AR637T receiver. For testing I plugged the BEC into Aux1 as well as the bind plug socket. I've tested with both an Ix12 and a DX9. Both are bound. It was an effort to get the bind to start. Does anyone have any ideas? Sounds like the ESC is bad. When connected to the receiver, the receiver bound light is not on and there are no beeps counting the cells in the battery. IT's just dead. I also noticed the motors will not turn easily unless they are connected to the battery. Once connected they spin easily by hand. Which is confusing for me since I could see the one that works needing a signal from the ESC so I assume something is getting through the suspected bad ESC. Any ideas?

Try tweaking the end point on the throttle channel. Had the same issue and tweaked lower lower limits to like -102 and both initialized. I pulled it all apart troubleshooting before I figured that one out.

[Evan D]

And it passed a range check? I assume you had the control surfaces all going through the BB? I don’t think that would cause loss of all control and then having it back post crash but it could...

Post crash control check did not have any problems with the primary surfaces. Other than the ailerons and rudders were distroyed

[MrSmoothie]

Plus one on the canopy hatch latch being totally inadequate, even with the halfway-point magnets. The pin is far too short and the gap changes as the hatch is shifted fore/aft, or the fuselage flexes. My father made the first two flights "stock", making especially sure the pin was engaged, but I pretty much insisted he add magnets at the rear of the hatch before he flew again the next day. I'm sure most of us have had at least one canopy/hatch come off in flight -- some planes hardly notice, while others become almost unflyable, like when the canopy flew off of my FMS 1500mm A-10. That was a wild ride.

[Evan D]

Yes there is a 2-3mm gap and the pin on the latch is about the same so any bump and it comes unlatched.

I put a 1/16" piece of balsa behind the striker plate and a small piece of one sided foam tape at the front (this made the gap the same front and back. Then I pulled the latch out of the wing, disassembled it and made the pin in the latch 2mm longer and dremeled the inside so the "T" could slide an extra mm forward. Won't come out next time! My canopy is a little heavier and valuable with the FPV rig but that is offset by the removal of the front pilot figure.

[Jpmcdo]

Try tweaking the end point on the throttle channel. Had the same issue and tweaked lower lower limits to like -102 and both initialized. I pulled it all apart troubleshooting before I figured that one out.

Thanks for replying, I figured it out. I had to trim the throttle down and everything started to work fine.

[Jpmcdo]

I tookoff and made a right turn to the downwind led. Abeam of the takeoff point it started a roll to the left, I applied right ailerons to correct with no response from the ailerons. Telemetry showed no loss of signal and no holds. It went in at full power in a nose down attitude. Power was killed just prior to impact with the throttle cut.

Had you gotten to the point of programming the Receiver? From what I understand you fly the plane with the AR637T first and get it trimmed then go for the AS3X programming and SAFE if you want to. I only ask because I’m going to use the same receiver and am a bit nervous now. It almost sounds like your plane was told to roll left and the correction you made was ignored. If you haven’t you ought to post this on the RC Groups AR637T forum. Andy from Horizon monitors it and may have some insight.

[crash60]

yf22raptor,congrats on the maiden and thank you for the PM. Parts ordered.

[xviper]

Thanks for replying, I figured it out. I had to trim the throttle down and everything started to work fine.

As I've always said, sometimes you can leave the trim alone and sometimes you can't. Lowering the trim to the bottom is one of the first things I do after setting up a new model. It's such a simple thing, I do it to all my planes UNLESS the manual says not to (some Eflite planes need to see a little throttle trim to bind in particular modes).

[Gilatrout]

It's hot, so I'm gonna mess with the cockpit for a while.

Observer is all printed, I'll attach the arms after I smooth him out some.

It took some fiddling to get him right. While the plane is listed at 1:8.5, the seat is closer to 1:11.

He started out as a 1:6 figure I got off Thingiverse, scaled down by 55%. His head comes from other work by the same designer. He'll get a mic and some other details before he takes his seat full time.




I've been avoiding the instrument panel, hoping someone better than I can take on that task.

[Gilatrout]

I’m really sorry that happened to you and now I’m nervous. I have a Spektrum Ix12 transmitter and just bought a AR637T for my receiver and they are not cheap.

I too am planning on using this receiver. I'll by also using at least 1 srxl2 remote plugged into the receiver as well.

[Wild Man]

I too am planning on using this receiver. I'll by also using at least 1 srxl2 remote plugged into the receiver as well.

Like the Old saying goes (YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR) and the new AR637T is not that expensive I am assembling my Older Bothers OV-10 and we are going to use the AR8010T Spektrum rec.with one satellite

[Jpmcdo]

I too am planning on using this receiver. I'll by also using at least 1 srxl2 remote plugged into the receiver as well.

Have you figured out where you will place the receiver? I’ve spent a few hours trying to figure out how to get it placed inside the fuselage with all the wires and blue box in the way.

[Gilatrout]

Have you figured out where you will place the receiver? I’ve spent a few hours trying to figure out how to get it placed inside the fuselage with all the wires and blue box in the way.

I did the utility hatch mod. The back half of the fuselage has tons of room to get receiver out of the way. The remote will be installed forward in the main battery bay.

I've not looked at the blue box closely yet, but I suspect I may reverse the orientation so that the receiver wires point to the rear of the plane. I expect I'll also need to make my own custom leads to account for the greater distance between the blue box and the receiver. Once I get to that part of my build then I'll know more.

The hatch was cut with a razor saw starting with careful measurements on each side. Then connect the top and bottom cuts. the side walls are thin. Internally there is a shelf which you cant quite get to with the razor saw. I used a hacksaw blade to make the internal cut.

I then set a couple of 5mm cf rods to hold and register the hatch to the fuselage. I also added a few magnets to help keep things together.

you will also need to cut an access hole between the rear bay and the battery bay. I used a brass tube with one end sharpened to reach into the cavity..

The picture attached shows the hatch roughed into the fuselage. I still have some finish work before I'm personally satisfied.

[xviper]

Have you figured out where you will place the receiver? I’ve spent a few hours trying to figure out how to get it placed inside the fuselage with all the wires and blue box in the way.

Since it's NOT a gyro RX, it can be mounted in any orientation. I'm using a Lemon 10-ch DSMX/P RX. I've got it mounted on its side, stuck to the wall, just in front of the BB and up high. The satellite is stuck to the roof, upside down, behind the hatch, using some very sticky 3M double sided tape. As I was building the plane, I started to plan the RX placement, so not a lot of thinking or time involved.

[Jpmcdo]

I did the utility hatch mod. The back half of the fuselage has tons of room to get receiver out of the way. The remote will be installed forward in the main battery bay.

I've not looked at the blue box closely yet, but I suspect I may reverse the orientation so that the receiver wires point to the rear of the plane. I expect I'll also need to make my own custom leads to account for the greater distance between the blue box and the receiver. Once I get to that part of my build then I'll know more.

The hatch was cut with a razor saw starting with careful measurements on each side. Then connect the top and bottom cuts. the side walls are thin. Internally there is a shelf which you cant quite get to with the razor saw. I used a hacksaw blade to make the internal cut.

I then set a couple of 5mm cf rods to hold and register the hatch to the fuselage. I also added a few magnets to help keep things together.

you will also need to cut an access hole between the rear bay and the battery bay. I used a brass tube with one end sharpened to reach into the cavity..

The picture attached shows the hatch roughed into the fuselage. I still have some finish work before I'm personally satisfied.

Thanks, gives me something to think about. I’m probably not going to use a satellite but may rethink that. The antennae wires on the AR637T are very long and will reach forward into the battery compartment away from the other wires. I may just unplug and start over after orienting my receiver. I am a bit reluctant to move forward until I decide on the satellite.

[Evan D]

My satellite is in the nose, there’s a rectangular hole you can put it through in the front of the nose wheel bay. This plane does have a lot of wires but it also has a lot of room for it compared to some other planes like the P-38.

[themudduck]

The ESC is the same as the B-24. Go to Motion and look under the B-24 and you’ll find the ESC manual.

Its under the "support" tab. I've attached it here. Have you looked at it? . There are 22 different beep sequences... which are really hard to understand. It's really pretty poor for a manual. It doesn't show what the default settings are... for example, the second section is "brake" - but it doesn't say whether its on or off. The third section is "type of battery" and it shows "Nickel-Hydrogen battery" or "Lithium battery". Which one is the default? And WTH is a "Nickel-Hydrogen" battery? (this is obviously supposed to be NiMH)

I was looking to see if I could try a different timing setting. But, which setting is for the motor timing? There's one that says "Angle of Entrance". GAAAH is that a motor setting, or a Porn reference? Hmm, maybe it's "PWM setting of motor" - but I have no clue what that means. It has three "helicopter modes" - but no info as to what they do or what it means!