Official FlightLine 1600mm P-51D Mustang Thread

[jetfool]

Elbee,
My Dad bought me a large set in a wooden box in 1970. He dated it and I still use the handles w/ new blades (of course) to this day. Really brings back memories every time I use them. Those scalpel blades do last a long time. I use a good pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the blade.
Rainy and windy again, hope you all are having good flying weather

Best Regards, Rex

[Elbee]

xviper

Good tip.

The removal tool came with the handle and blades from Swann-Morton.

I cut myself twice before figuring out I should try the removal tool.

I am not always the sharpest pencil in the box.

The removal tool works and is a faster way to change out blades for me.

New blade install is a deliberate process, but simple, as you wrote.

I do like how sharp these are and how long the blades stay sharp.

Different stainless alloy, I suppose, versus carbon steel.

I do miss my tried and true X-acto #11 blades and still use the handles with #4 blades and one or two of the other general purpose blades.

I have 2-3 NIB complete X-acto box sets from 80's and early 90's I received as gifts.

For me that's instant nostalgia in a box just looking at 'em. Good times.

Best, LB

[xviper]

Worked in a medical research lab for 21 years. Used all kinds of disposable scalpel blades the whole time. The key is having the correct handle for the blade being used. If the handle is incorrect, yes, the blade can go zinging across the bench. Also, a medical grade handle is the only way to go. Once you see how the blade goes on, it's not difficult to figure out the best way to safely remove it, even without a removal tool. We never heard of a removal tool back then. Hint: for installation, fit the blade in the correct position and push it (pointy end up against something rigid like a hard piece of wood) until it clicks into place. You can see that the blunt end bends as it slides over the raised ridge and straightens when it clicks into place. To remove, lift the blunt end on the blunt side and place the now slightly curled blunt end on the edge of the same wood block with pointy end up. Pull the handle down and the blade disengages. It helps to have finger nails that aren't clipped. (Or use small fine needle nose pliars.)
If you can find them, get handles that are big, thick and roundish. These are the more "industrial" strength type of handles. They can be held more securely and less likely to slip.

[Elbee]

Never an issue removing or installing blades. To me that is a solution for a problem that doesn't exist.

[Evan D]

Never an issue removing or installing blades. To me that is a solution for a problem that doesn't exist.

[Elbee]

https://www.amazon.com/MIERE-Surgical-Blade-Remover-Unit/dp/B0GN4M9JGS?crid=AR7QDN4CAKLX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rPwwxVCX8XNyrByadKG6Uu2BgWIN2jcvphnZvVlimlhGOIQTCeFX2wDZL4-HdODvZ98sbAkPlQrVL4BVTWyNKEeQTG5tbaRpV1x_i139lOhKSZtg4YE5lAInbMYpVwRKJfLWegFVIVVf1PgItbCguorWwsLIuw68p8u7t8r-bELFzGJOje50oTnUIrM5VlPFz1vV0YMk5Pedu18SIvHPxGgJjD_N9liggkji5Qvlt2c.t2G-EzcRcZhpeEGTu5Bsb1gvq0bUAl8RSOiBpFZeWp4&dib_tag=se&keywords=scalpel+blade+removal+tool&qid=1781010711&sprefix=scapel+blade+removal+tool%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-6

davegee

Make sure you pick up a blade removal tool.

Removing a used blade without one is an accident waiting to happen.

I sound like my Mom, but I have sliced a layer or two off trying to remove the blades with it.

Best, LB

[davegee]

Hi Rex: I’m going to buy those surgical blades on
Amszon and try them out. Will report back.

I’m reminded when I was 10 years old I was cutting a pumpkin for a jack o lantern and slipped on a soft spot and cut my ring and little finger on my left hand. Severed the tendon on my little finger and damaged the one on my ring finger. Spent a week on my back with my arm in traction! To this day, I’m mindful of that whenever I pick up a sharp object 60 years later!

cheers

davegee

[Evan D]

Yes. We have a group here interested in it. A-7 or A-4… I worked on both but not sure I’d be interested but then the C model Lightning II really doesn’t either. A VTOL B absolutely.

Hey Evan D,
You going to consider the new FW F-35? Lots of money. I'd like a large 110mm fan A-7 Corsair II.
Still modifying my FW F-4

Best Regards, Rex

[jetfool]

Hey Evan D,
You going to consider the new FW F-35? Lots of money. I'd like a large 110mm fan A-7 Corsair II.
Still modifying my FW F-4

Best Regards, Rex

[Evan D]

The numbering (#11 or #10, etc) that Xacto and surgical blades use is the shape of the blades. A surgical #11 and Xacto #11 are both triangular blades with a straight cutting edge. The surgical blades are stainless, very thin, slightly flexible and extremely sharp.

[jetfool]

Davegee,
I use x-acto #11 blades also, but these scalpel blades are 100 times sharper. I only use them for special cuts; afraid I'll cut my finger off. For foam they are great.
My buddy who is a retired Dr. says he uses a Kevlar glove on his opposite hand when cutting balsa just for safety

Best Regards, Rex

[Elbee]

I have been using handles I got in the military 40+ years ago and blades I buy on line. A box of 100 lasts about 20 years. I prefer the #11 blades.

Amazon.com: 21PCS 20 Scalpel Blades with #11 Scalpels Surgical Sterile Blades Including 1 Handle,Laboratory Blade-Lab Knives- Carving Blades with Handle-Art Blades Practicing Cutting-Crafts & More… : Industrial & Scientific

Evan,

I just found that the Chine$e blades and even the brand name X-acto blades are just not as quality as those used to be.

No biggie, I bought a box of 100 X-acto #11s about a year ago and the the tips are not that sharp or are the tips always completely symmetrical.

Even fresh, most of these tore paper at the tip when cutting out graphics and decals.

I will say those worked okay for cutting foam, just not very accurate on other things.

I have a box of Hobbico brand #11s from the 90's that are better than OEM X-acto #11 I bought last year.

Maybe a got a bad batch, but I still doubt whether X-acto OEM are made here and a poor Q&A issue is in eye of the beholder. .

Just my experience of late.

Best, LB

[Davegeee]

I have been using handles I got in the military 40+ years ago and blades I buy on line. A box of 100 lasts about 20 years. I prefer the #11 blades.

Amazon.com: 21PCS 20 Scalpel Blades with #11 Scalpels Surgical Sterile Blades Including 1 Handle,Laboratory Blade-Lab Knives- Carving Blades with Handle-Art Blades Practicing Cutting-Crafts & More… : Industrial & Scientific

I agree, Evan. I use almost exlusively the #11 blades, probably have for 40 years or more.

Cheers

Davegee

[Evan D]

I have been using handles I got in the military 40+ years ago and blades I buy on line. A box of 100 lasts about 20 years. I prefer the #11 blades.

Amazon.com: 21PCS 20 Scalpel Blades with #11 Scalpels Surgical Sterile Blades Including 1 Handle,Laboratory Blade-Lab Knives- Carving Blades with Handle-Art Blades Practicing Cutting-Crafts & More… : Industrial & Scientific

[Davegeee]

Davegee,
looking good. I bought some scalpels off Amazon for $12. Best tool for cutting clean lines in foam I have ever made. I handle these with care! Didn't know if you use them.
Best Regards, Rex

Hi Rex: what is the official name given to them on the Amazon website? I'll order some and give them a try.

Thanks

Davegee

[Elbee]

...bought some scalpels

The only issue I've ever had with scalpels is the brittleness.

Side loads can break the blade and zing it across the bench.

Less expensive in the long run than #11 X-actos and sorry to say it, but better quality, too.

Great tip, Rex.

Best, LB

[jetfool]

Davegee,
looking good. I bought some scalpels off Amazon for $12. Best tool for cutting clean lines in foam I have ever made. I handle these with care! Didn't know if you use them.
Best Regards, Rex

[Davegeee]

I made some progress on the P-51D makeover during the weekend. Still working on refinishing the vertical stab (minus the foam fairing that was amputated by razor saw) and will be painting it today, probably.

I'll attach a couple of pics of the fuselage and wing redo, spraying silver paint where the grey parts were. This is a version (paint scheme) that was a little later than the scheme MRC has on their Mustangs, with the exception that the first D bubbletop models that came to the unit did not yet have the fairing installed on the vertical fin. These "finless" models were later field modified with kits that came from NA in California when they discovered the controllability problems cutting down the spine on P-51s and P-47s. The aluminum fairing seemed to fix the problem. The P-47 used a smaller, longer fairing that extended from the vertical fin to near where the bubbletop canopy stops when it is fully open.

Cheers

Davegee

[Elbee]

Davegee,

Take your time. Remember it's about the journey when you modify and create a new masterpiece.

Best Regards, Rex

Rex,

Sage advice, my friend.

I organize all my ideas by how happy I'd be if it worked.

The process then becomes a pleasure to wake up to every day.

Works for me.

Best, Steve

[Davegeee]

Davegee,

Take your time. Remember it's about the journey when you modify and create a new masterpiece.

Best Regards, Rex

Wise words, Rex. I'm methodically going over all the changes to make on this airplane. It is complicated, and I have to be very careful in masking to be sure it comes out right. Going to my local Sherwin Williams this morning with the rudder so that they can do a color match for all the OD paints that will remain on the topside of the airplane. Most everything else below that will be NMF. Shouldn't be overly difficult, but definitely time consumng.

Hope you get some flights on your Lucky when the weather is appropriate. I heard third-hand that there is talk that we might be able to resurface our runway, which if true, would be a godsend! Have to wait to confirm if that is actually true, or not.

I'm making plans to go to Washington, DC for a peek preview on June 28 of most of the new galleries that will be opening on July 1 at the NASM. I can see some of my handiwork and how all that turned out. I especially want to see the new WWII exhibit which has about 15 diecast 1/72 scale B-17s hanging from the ceiling on threaded rods in a "combat box" formation. I shipped them to the museum in the summer of 2023, so it's been a while. Also there are two plastic models of a Mustang III and Me-163 Komet I'm looking forward to seeing. There are still about two or three galleries that will open later this summer, not quite done yet. Will take pics!

Cheers

Davegee