Official FlightLine 1600mm P-51D Mustang Thread

[Davegeee]

I just pulled the trigger on a new P-51D 1600mm model. I like the basic 357th FG paint schemes offered with the kit, but I will be changing it to an early D model without the tail fin fairing. I'll probahly use one from Pete Peterson's Hurry Home Honey aircraft paint schemes.Below is the proposed look of Pete Peterson's airplane, or one of several that he flew in combat. The picture below shows the top four aces of the 357th FG. From left to right, Richard " Pete" Peterson, Leonard "Kit" Carson, Johnny England, and Clarence "Bud" Anderson.

Davegee

My new Fligthline 1600mm P-51D arrived in good shape yesterday. I immediately took everything out of the box, and was fairly impressed. A minor annoyance is the thin waterslide decals of the fuselage where the underlying colors of the invasion stripes show through. I'll have to repaint over those in time, but no big deal, for now.

I started working on the tail modification to make it an early D bubbletop before they added the vertical fin fairing or strake. They soon found out, as they did on the P-47, that cutting down the spine of the razorback on both airplanes exposed a new problem with longitudinal control of the aircraft. Kits were sent to airplanes in the field to correct this, and North American changed the production lines to include this fin, which solved the problem.

I have modified three different E Flite 1.5m P-51 models to this early D "finless" model for scale likeness to the real thing. There was absolutely no negative impact that I could tell in flying them with my mod. So, I'm going to try doing that with this new Flightline model. I started cutting on the leading edge of the vertical stab yesterday. I'll rebuild the scale looking part with balsa or bass wood. If all works out, it will look great, I think. But if it doesn't, I'm only working on the rudder/fin, and if I screw that up, I'm only out $30 as I get a new part from MRC and do a slightly "newer" version of the airplane with the strake on it as the model comes with it. I sorta look at it as the "free return" trajectory that the early Apollo missions did that would return them safely home to Earth if their plans didn't work out. I'm reasonably sure I can pull off this mod without having to do the "free return" mode and buy a new replacement rudder part. We'll see.

Cheers

Davegee

[xviper]

Yup that's it,I have used gyro,s since 2015 if swings around at all turn gain down just a hair try that!😁

To what is this in reference to? There is no quote.

[stitch]

Yup that's it,I have used gyro,s since 2015 if swings around at all turn gain down just a hair try that!😁

[Davegeee]

I just pulled the trigger on a new P-51D 1600mm model. I like the basic 357th FG paint schemes offered with the kit, but I will be changing it to an early D model without the tail fin fairing. I'll probahly use one from Pete Peterson's Hurry Home Honey aircraft paint schemes.Below is the proposed look of Pete Peterson's airplane, or one of several that he flew in combat. The picture below shows the top four aces of the 357th FG. From left to right, Richard " Pete" Peterson, Leonard "Kit" Carson, Johnny England, and Clarence "Bud" Anderson.

Davegee

[Elbee]

Those home made 4-bladers are spectacular.

Thanks, X.

I ran those on a OS .40 FSR ABC and a OS .91S 4-Stroke.

A little much for the .40, though performance was really good and the drag at lower throttle was realistic.

The 3-blade was never run on an engine, as I didn't finish the model, Pica (Dave Platt design) Spitfire with a OS .61 FSR ABC.

Still have the partially built kit, wing needs top sheeting and fuselage needs empannage completed.

Big fun for little money in those days.

Best, LB

[nuts-n-volts]

Scale Hamilton Standard for this 63" Mustang would be 19"

[xviper]

Those home made 4-bladers are spectacular.

[Elbee]

xviper..

Makes sense, it would seem reasonable to think one could build props, even scale sized props, given current technologies.

As stated, we used to build 'em from maple 2-bladed props.

I still have a 3-bladed and a few 4-blade props I made from those days.

Best, LB

[xviper]

X,

What would be the ideal size in a 4-blade prop for this model?

Have you changed out the electric motor for one with more grunt/RPM?

Back in the 'days or yore' we built larger 4-bladed props from 2 bladed props.

These were 'Rev-Up" maple props with the wide blades.

Sometimes by notching one against the other and using epoxy and metal pins to build one prop and sometimes by machining/building a back plate that would allow for using a portion of the prop & hub of four 2-bladed props.

I never had one come apart, but it certainly could depending on use/abuse.

Best, LB

Hugh and I were referencing the FMS 1700mm 'Stang. Mine is already modified with the power system from the Flightline 1600mm P-51. As such, I'm using the stock F/L prop (16x12x4) because I worry that the stock FMS prop might come apart given the F/L motor spins ~100kv faster. Ideally, I would have liked to have used the stock sized FMS prop (17x10x4). "Rule of thumb" - the F/L prop would be equivalent to a (17x11x4), so in that sense, the stock FMS prop "might" be able to take it but I didn't want to chance it as I've had a similar prop on the FMS 1700mm Corsair explode on 2 different models. One day, if I find a way to manufacture that metal brace that comes with the stock F/L and make it fit into the stock FMS prop hub, I'll give it a try.
Hugh is thinking of going with the Eflite Power 60 motor (470kv), 80kv more than the F/L motor. Using the stock FMS prop could be a risky proposition. However, having said that and knowing that RCInformer did try the same V1 FMS P-51 on 7 or 8 cells and it lived to tell the story would make me think that the stock FMS prop might take it. I'm just too chicken to try but with the metal F/L type brace, I would chance it.
I've read some modellers have considered that the proper "scale" prop for the FMS plane is closer to an 18" 4-blade and for the F/L plane, a 17" 4-blade. IMO, the F/L P-51 would look amazing with a bigger prop but one would have to take extra care so as to not nose over and break all kinds of stuff in the nose. I don't have the calculations to confirm or deny these "claims". The pitch for such props would be dependent on the motor used based upon an E-calc determination, something I'm not well versed in performing.

[Elbee]

Most one-piece 4-bladers don't even come close to the size needed for the Mustang.

X,

What would be the ideal size in a 4-blade prop for this model?

Have you changed out the electric motor for one with more grunt/RPM?

Back in the 'days or yore' we built larger 4-bladed props from 2 bladed props.

These were 'Rev-Up" maple props with the wide blades.

Sometimes by notching one against the other and using epoxy and metal pins to build one prop and sometimes by machining/building a back plate that would allow for using a portion of the prop & hub of four 2-bladed props.

I never had one come apart, but it certainly could depending on use/abuse.

Best, LB

[xviper]

I have searched for years to find a 4-blade prop that would work on the FMS 1700mm P-51 but to no avail. The closest I came was this German company but their props are very expensive and may not be in the size I need.

https://www.ramoser.de/home_d/varioprop_d/varioprop_d.html

Most one-piece 4-bladers don't even come close to the size needed for the Mustang.

[Hugh Wiedman]

I'm no genius but take this for what it's worth. I've seen a few videos of the FMS P-51 1700mm and in the ones where we could see the door working, the rear "cooling door" is tied to flaps. As flaps go down, the door opens - part way for 1/2 flaps and full open for full flaps. That's the way mine works. It makes sense to me that as the plane flies slower, the cooler needs more air going thru it to keep the temps down. It's not a problem at speed. I'm not certain how it is on the real Mustang but a Google search confirmed that it opens when going slow to provide more air flow and act as a "heat dump". You can see it on Horizon Hobby's video starting at 5:23 .......

If you go back a page or 2, you can see my impressions of how the FMS performs with the Flightline motor and propeller performs. If you put in the 470kv, Power 60 and a decent prop, your plane should be a real "beast". With that motor, I would worry that the stock FMS prop won't hold. Your hunt for a more bulletproof prop is a wise decision. At least for me, a Mustang should have a 4-blade prop.
Somewhere is the recesses of my memory, I seem to recall RCInformer tried the V1 P-51 (300kv) on 7 or 8 cells and it was VERY much improved. There was never a mention about whether or not the motor (or prop) could take it or for how long. For me, I'm satified with the minor improvement using the FL power system. Do let us know how the Power 60 works for you.

That's how I have it now, tied to flaps and opens more at slower speeds as the flaps open. Would have liked to find a good Beechwood 4 blade electric prop, but they're just not out there for electrics. So an Xoar 3 blade Beechwood electric prop was the best I could come up with, even had to have Xoar make these for me. Couldn't really find a decent 4" 4 blade spinner either, so I'll have to live with the 3 blade!

[xviper]

I'm sure one of you geniuses out there has the answer to the vent under the fuselage behind the main scoop. I know that it uses the Meredith Effect on the real P-51 for cooling and a slight boost of thrust but not sure if it opens wide at slow speed for better cooling and closes more at high speed. I believe thats correct but just wanted to make sure. The vent on my 1700mm P-51 originally came operating the opposite way, and I used a servo reverser to change it. Just want to make sure I changed it correctly.

Currently fitting out that pig with an Eflight Power 60 470 Kv motor, which I also have in my Hangar Nine 60" Beast Bi-Plane and love it. Stock motor was a 360Kv gerbil wheel. Ordered from Xoar in China some custom props black with yellow tip 17X7 2 blade electric props (same as my Beast uses) and some black with yellow tip 16X7 3 blade props. Tried a MasterScrew 3 blade 16X8 but the hub is way too thick and the prop fairly heavy. Found some 4" Spinners for 2 blades at Extreme Flight and some 4" 3 blade aluminum spinners from Z Hobby, so getting down to the finishing touches. It either wakes this elephant up or it's going to the Old Folks Home!!

I'm no genius but take this for what it's worth. I've seen a few videos of the FMS P-51 1700mm and in the ones where we could see the door working, the rear "cooling door" is tied to flaps. As flaps go down, the door opens - part way for 1/2 flaps and full open for full flaps. That's the way mine works. It makes sense to me that as the plane flies slower, the cooler needs more air going thru it to keep the temps down. It's not a problem at speed. I'm not certain how it is on the real Mustang but a Google search confirmed that it opens when going slow to provide more air flow and act as a "heat dump". You can see it on Horizon Hobby's video starting at 5:23 .......

If you go back a page or 2, you can see my impressions of how the FMS performs with the Flightline motor and propeller performs. If you put in the 470kv, Power 60 and a decent prop, your plane should be a real "beast". With that motor, I would worry that the stock FMS prop won't hold. Your hunt for a more bulletproof prop is a wise decision. At least for me, a Mustang should have a 4-blade prop.
Somewhere is the recesses of my memory, I seem to recall RCInformer tried the V1 P-51 (300kv) on 7 or 8 cells and it was VERY much improved. There was never a mention about whether or not the motor (or prop) could take it or for how long. For me, I'm satified with the minor improvement using the FL power system. Do let us know how the Power 60 works for you.

[paulrkytek]

Evan the Sound card is from a uk based guy who does not sell abroad due to customs issues

• Dr Mad Thrust Machine Gun Effect Unit: This is arguably the simplest dedicated unit available. It is lightweight, includes a built-in speaker, and plugs directly into a spare channel on your RC receiver. It triggers a rapid-fire machine gun sound at the flip of a transmitter switch.
• Model Radio Workshop Gun Flasher with Sound (MRW44): Available from retailers like Sussex Model Centre, this highly compact UK-made module hooks up to your receiver. Along with a machine gun audio track, it provides wiring outputs to connect wing-mounted LEDs, allowing gun flashes to sync perfectly with the sound.
• Sense Innovations ESS-Air: If you want a premium setup, the ESS-Air Engine Sound Module combines a realistic WW2 radial or inline engine sound with an auxiliary "gunfire" channel. The gunfire sound can be assigned to a separate switch on your radio. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

[paulrkytek]

[QUOTE=Evan D;n448849]Link? Machine gun sounds?[/QUOTE
UK based radio guy but due to customs issues he does not sell overseas but here is the link if you want to ask him https://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/shop/ I asked Google A.I the question and here is the answer it gave is there a very simple sound module thae will produce a gun sound for a ww2 r.c. plane

05:06

Yes, there are very simple, dedicated sound modules designed specifically to add WW2 machine gun audio to RC warbirds.

Recommended Plug-and-Play Options

• Dr Mad Thrust Machine Gun Effect Unit: This is arguably the simplest dedicated unit available. It is lightweight, includes a built-in speaker, and plugs directly into a spare channel on your RC receiver. It triggers a rapid-fire machine gun sound at the flip of a transmitter switch.
• Model Radio Workshop Gun Flasher with Sound (MRW44): Available from retailers like Sussex Model Centre, this highly compact UK-made module hooks up to your receiver. Along with a machine gun audio track, it provides wiring outputs to connect wing-mounted LEDs, allowing gun flashes to sync perfectly with the sound.
• Sense Innovations ESS-Air: If you want a premium setup, the ESS-Air Engine Sound Module combines a realistic WW2 radial or inline engine sound with an auxiliary "gunfire" channel. The gunfire sound can be assigned to a separate switch on your radio. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

How They Connect
These simple modules do not require complex programming. They generally feature:

1. Servo Lead: Plugs into an open channel (e.g., AUX1 or Gear) on your RC receiver.
2. Power: They typically draw a small amount of power directly from the receiver circuit (5V–6V), requiring no external battery.
3. Speaker: They include or come pre-wired to a small, lightweight speaker that you can mount inside the fuselage or cowl. [1, 2]

If you want to customize your setup, let me know:

• The wingspan or scale of your WW2 plane (to ensure the speaker fits and isn't too heavy).
• If you have a spare channel switch available on your transmitter.
• Whether you want synchronized LED gun flashes alongside the audio.

[Hugh Wiedman]

I'm sure one of you geniuses out there has the answer to the vent under the fuselage behind the main scoop. I know that it uses the Meredith Effect on the real P-51 for cooling and a slight boost of thrust but not sure if it opens wide at slow speed for better cooling and closes more at high speed. I believe thats correct but just wanted to make sure. The vent on my 1700mm P-51 originally came operating the opposite way, and I used a servo reverser to change it. Just want to make sure I changed it correctly.

Currently fitting out that pig with an Eflight Power 60 470 Kv motor, which I also have in my Hangar Nine 60" Beast Bi-Plane and love it. Stock motor was a 360Kv gerbil wheel. Ordered from Xoar in China some custom props black with yellow tip 17X7 2 blade electric props (same as my Beast uses) and some black with yellow tip 16X7 3 blade props. Tried a MasterScrew 3 blade 16X8 but the hub is way too thick and the prop fairly heavy. Found some 4" Spinners for 2 blades at Extreme Flight and some 4" 3 blade aluminum spinners from Z Hobby, so getting down to the finishing touches. It either wakes this elephant up or it's going to the Old Folks Home!!

[Evan D]

Link? Machine gun sounds?

[paulrkytek]

I am going to try the MW4 sound card and speaker for £22.50p including postage and report back on it

[paulrkytek]

Cosmetic tip….
After many flights, I noticed the fuselage foam at the (pilot right) front of the canopy well was compressed. A gap between the front right side of the canopy assembly and fuselage had formed. Hmmm….

Was I putting the canopy assembly on without checking alignment? Nope.

After paying attention to my battery removal and installation procedure, I found that my fingers were compressing the foam.

To prevent this, install some thin plywood or carbon fiber sheeting layered onto the front side of the canopy well. Fat fingers won’t compress this tough layer! If it is thin enough, the canopy fit isn’t impacted.

After gluing on a thin sheet, I then filled the gap of the compression, sanded and painted the filler.

If you get ahead of this, you will avoid the fill/sand/paint step.

-GG

a thin layer of epoxy may well be a simpler way ?apply with finger wearing nitrile glove

[GliderGuy]

Why not? Keep it thin! Needs only to be a thin, stiff layer that keeps your fingers off the foam.

Balsa will compress, so if you use wood…needs to be a thin aircraft grade plywood.

No harm done it the added material prevents the canopy from seating….sand on it where it is binding.

-GG