Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread
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I'm not sure about the stock markings, but I did use the stock nomenclature and they peeled off after being coated with Minwax Matte finish. The rest of my markings are from Callie Graphics and they work great when applied straight to the surface.
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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Finally got my spit together. I am sure about Flightline, I think they spoiled the ship for an halfpence of tar ( cheaped out on finish)
This is my first ever flightline aircraft and probably my last.
Many Issues including the retracts not working when using a separate receiver Battery.. Turns out retracts have some kind of over voltage detection built in.
If your run it with the 6s and the supplied ESC they work just fine ( BEC is 5amp at 5volts) My battery would supply 12 amps.. If I add another BEC to drop the receiver battery voltage down to 5 volts retracts work but will not no way no how work with the 7.4 V from a receiver battery... All other servos were fine.
Also never hook up the led lights without the little blue box they lite very bright for a short period of time.. (nano seconds)
Finally the decals what a P.I.T.A no instruction as to what the three different types are. and no instructions on how to apply them.
Slightest touch of a sticky decal on the paint when trying to attach results in paint coming off. Paint is not well adhered to airframe.
I hope it flies better than it went together.
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As commented on RCGroups:Finally got my spit together. I am sure about Flightline, I think they spoiled the ship for an halfpence of tar ( cheaped out on finish)
This is my first ever flightline aircraft and probably my last.
Many Issues including the retracts not working when using a separate receiver Battery.. Turns out retracts have some kind of over voltage detection built in.
If your run it with the 6s and the supplied ESC they work just fine ( BEC is 5amp at 5volts) My battery would supply 12 amps.. If I add another BEC to drop the receiver battery voltage down to 5 volts retracts work but will not no way no how work with the 7.4 V from a receiver battery... All other servos were fine.
Also never hook up the led lights without the little blue box they lite very bright for a short period of time.. (nano seconds)
Finally the decals what a P.I.T.A no instruction as to what the three different types are. and no instructions on how to apply them.
Slightest touch of a sticky decal on the paint when trying to attach results in paint coming off. Paint is not well adhered to airframe.
I hope it flies better than it went together.
Decals are best wet applied so you can slide them around. They should have explained this better in the instructions.
Over voltage protection on the retracts is better than the magic smoke coming out when too high a voltage is applied to them.
If you are using a 6+ volt receiver battery, then you should always make sure that all the electronics are rated for high voltage, or use a voltage regulator to reduce voltage to below 6v.
If you are going to apply a higher voltage to any of the electronics than the manufacturer intended, then they cannot be held responsible for any damage that results.
Paint is not very well adhered to the foam, which is typical for all foamies. (paint does not stick well to foam)Comment
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Howdy.... The servos and retracts are designed to run on 5.1 volts DC or very close to that voltage threshold. The LEDS are rated at about 2.8-3.0 v dc, and that is why there is a blue box, to regulate that current... You can have 1000 amps available, and that is OK! You just cant have too many volts!
I am surprised the retracts didn't fry to be honest.... Good luck with your maiden...
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Sorry for the confusion guys, Rich and Jerry are correct...I misspoke and the correct rudder correction for torque should be right, not left!Comment
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I hope you guys will forgive me for a minor hijack, but as a Spitfire enthusiast I hope you find these photos of interest! First, here are some shots of my recently completed 1/32 scale Spit model...lots of experiments in airbrushing, shading, washes, etc., but I love the opportunity to get into the detail! This is a Mark Vb. RobComment
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Welcome home sir!
Glad you had a nice trip and thanks for sharing your photos
we will need to catch up soon.
RichComment
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Beautiful work RCAV8R!I hope you guys will forgive me for a minor hijack, but as a Spitfire enthusiast I hope you find these photos of interest! First, here are some shots of my recently completed 1/32 scale Spit model...lots of experiments in airbrushing, shading, washes, etc., but I love the opportunity to get into the detail! This is a Mark Vb. RobComment
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Well said, I used her nomenclature on my Spitty, as well as every other plane I have that she has the nomenclature graphics for. They are definitely worth the few extra bucks!
Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: EDF's: Mig 29 TV "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, SU-27 90mm 8S:F22 Red Lion/EuroFighterBronzeTiger/F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet/F16/F4 Jolly Rodgers & Blue Angel, 80&90 TV Avanti, Viper, Stinger 90. Props: 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, B-24, 1700 P-51, 60" Beast & P2 Bipe, Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 62" Extra 300, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" EdgeComment
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Yep, found that out for myself. I used Callie's decals for all the main markings and made the mistake of using the stock nomenclature decals. The result, hers are still on and the stock ones are falling off. They even ripped while trying to put them on. Should have been my first clue. I didn't use the stock decals on the F7F or the Spitfire, but I used the Blue Angels set on the F8F with success, so I don't know if the decal supplier was changed between the manufacture of the F8F and the Spitfire, but the quality seems to have gone down hill. Anyone have any difficulty with the main markings stock decals??
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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