Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread

[rifleman_btx]

So, its on sale now for $209. That's a nice price! Just buying the retracts, motors, escs, props and hubs separately costs almost $150. I'm tempted to get one just for all the spare parts.

Its the pilots, that's where the money is. I bet they sell a lot of those spare pilots.

A lot of daughters/grand daughters with tiny horse farms lol

[Bearcat]

This morning a did a huge test with the B-26 and honestly I knew this could have ended badly on landing but I flew with the temps being 44 degree and foggy as hell. This test answered the retracts answer and I have answers for everybody so I will break this down from start to finish.
*44 degree tempature
* retracts will raise and lower but if they don't wiggle the rudder stick and they will drop 100% of tries.
B-26 flew great with some windy but man with silver paint it blends in the fog too fast!!!
Elevator I was able to bring flush but the plane is too nose heavy at 55mm for CG so I will move the battery back to 58-60 mm range next flight.
Both flights were conducted with an Admiral 4000
First flight it was noticed she was pitching nose up when you let the sticks go, I was forcing down elevator to keep her from stalling, I did manage to take her to the edge of a stall twice before giving her down elevator and lower power, landing was done in the grass with purrfection.
Second flight I changed the elevator from 3mm up to even ZERO..this gave me a stable flight with no tip stalling but let go of the stick and she dives even at full power so this tell me to move the battery back 3-5 mm or the elevator might need a slight up or maybe use a lighter 3600 4s battery..
Also the right cowl came loose again which caused the angle to point down and I kept noticing a pull to the right so I will epoxy this down and that should take of that issue.

Has anybody shimmed the front landing gear to raise the nose alittle?

[xviper]

* retracts will raise and lower but if they don't wiggle the rudder stick and they will drop 100% of tries.

Very interesting observation. I wonder why this makes a difference. I've flown around circuits trying to lower the gear while moving the ailerons and elevator but not the rudder. Last time I flew in the cold, it was one main that didn't come down. Trying some more, it was one main and the nose that wouldn't come down. Then again and none of them came down. Belly flopped it in the tall grass with no damage. It doesn't matter now that I've replaced them all with other brands of gear.

[Bearcat]

I'm using Du-Bro 2.75" treaded for the mains, and a Dave Brown 2 3/8 wheel for the nose. Your suggestions would work well too. I used an extra collar on the inside and cut the protruding end of the axle off using a Dremel..

Do you mean 2 3/4 or 2 1/2 or 2 1/4, Tower Hobbies is not showing a 2 3/8 wheel of that brand.. ( which is made in Hamilton Ohio near me!)

[Hardway]

Its the pilots, that's where the money is. I bet they sell a lot of those spare pilots.

Bro, you gave away the secret!!!! Now the price will go up just because of the intrinsic value of those pilots!!!!!!! ;)

[Bearcat]

Two more flights this evening and I am happy to say I have where the battery should be for both 4000 and 3600 batteries.
Landings have been good and I glued down the cowling so the prop does not bounce on landing as it has in the past and bust a prop both times.

[themudduck]

Do you mean 2 3/4 or 2 1/2 or 2 1/4, Tower Hobbies is not showing a 2 3/8 wheel of that brand.. ( which is made in Hamilton Ohio near me!)

Hi there,

By the way, yeah I installed a slightly larger nose wheel. This helps the model take off a bit easier. But the REAL reason I did it is because the full-size B26 sat on the ground like that (picture below) and I wanted it to have that look. Its just a silly anal-thing I like to do, I like my planes to look scale. Well at least I try. Sigh. The main wheels aren't correct either.

Well I'm pretty sure its a DaveBrown. The wheel doesn't have the size printed on it - I just measured it the best I could, using a ruler. It's bigger than 2-1/4. Maybe its a 2-1/2? I was shooting for a wheel that was slightly bigger than the original one.
I guess what you can do is take the nose wheel off yours, and measure the distance from the axle to the point where the wheel will touch the strut... that's the maximum size (multiply by 2). My wheel is just clears the strut. Here's a picture of the nose wheel on my B26.

By the way, Motion has these. This is the "treaded lite flight" type. Here's a link to the 2.5" size. Here's a link to the 2.25 size.
I just measured again just now. I swear to God, it's exactly between 2-1/4 and 2-1/2. So I don't know what the hell is going on.... :Thinking:

[NoDirt!]

A little hacking and painting of the cockpit:

[rifleman_btx]

Sweet!

[NoDirt!]

Thanks! Not scale at all but I think they're better than the factory DynaBots :Cool:

[ryramZ]

Hey guys what's the stock wheel size?

[borntoolate]

Main wheels - 35mm x 70mm nose wheel 22mm x 55mm

This is pretty close.

Bob

[Tony617]

I replaced the B26 stock tires with 3" dubro tires for the main gear and 2.5" dubro tire for the nose gear. The nose wheel is a bit larger that the stock one but still retracts fine. Since the tires are narrower I put one dura-collar on, then the tire, and another dura-collar.

Tony

[borntoolate]

I replaced the stock tires with 3" Robarts and an FMS 980mm P-40main as the nose wheel.

Bob

[rifleman_btx]

Yes my dynam retracts are coming out

[rifleman_btx]

And replacement is complete. The nose gear was a complex operation as not only did I have to get the steering system setup, but also I had to redo the mounting plate for it as well. Basically using the plate from the original retract unit and epoxing it on to the freewing set. Then drilled some holes and used the screws that bolted on the plate to the original retract. Finally having to cut the old mounting tabs off the new unit so the steering system would clear. But it's finally complete. Thank goodness

[Bearcat]

Looks like my mains took a dump tonight, one stopped working completely while the other is making a jerking and then the gear starts to grind..
Asked for help from Motion RC and see what they said before I have to drop some money on some from Hobby King.. so the wait begins..

[CFIT rob]

Bearcat i had a main act the same on my second flight. I notified motion (opened a warranty claim)and had a free replacement in two days. You must be within the 30 days from reciept window though.( If only marrage had the same warranty..i realized my ex was defective in the first two weeks.) My replacement has been working fine since (30ish flights). The other original main failed the same way a few weeks ago well out of warranty. Im going to stick with the dynam retracts for now in the hope that the replacements are improved in some way. If anyone finds a drop in replacement i would consider it. My failures had nothing to do with temp.

[rifleman_btx]

Yeah my way was a complete pita.

[Bearcat]

Looks like my mains took a dump tonight, one stopped working completely while the other is making a jerking and then the gear starts to grind..
Asked for help from Motion RC and see what they said before I have to drop some money on some from Hobby King.. so the wait begins..

Sad part is I'm in the house testing things when I decided to raise the wheels since I just put new ones on, the planes was upside down when the left retract starting making a growling gear noise, the wheel jerked going down 3-4 times before the motor reved up like the gears where not meshing. The other side just stopped working after 3 cycles.. This morning the dead one started working again which has me baffled.
Not happy with the retracts at this point..but I seem to remember I had the same issue with my A-10 a few years ago.. I still have the same retracts but weather dictates when I fly her..