Originally posted by Mrdronenut
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Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread
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Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Originally posted by Mrdronenut View PostGotcha MD. I saw on "in my hanger.......p-61 coming soon". I just posted pics of my P-61 on that thread,or should I say,the problems with itMarc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Oh Boy!!!
Big,tubby,snappy,bird!!!! She is very,very "unpredictable"to say to very least. I maidens her yesterday,with the help of my friend,Jason Pepper,who is a very,very seasoned pilot.
All control surfaces @neutral. H/R @70%,L/R @50%,30% expo all the way around. I used a 3200,4s battery.
No problem with the elevator,Altho I did not shim it. But,when doing a loop,snap rolled w/o warning,like we were told.Does not land easy. Just about everything everyone has said about this plane is true,except the elevator problems. But,that being said,every plane out there is,l9ke I like to call IT,"exactly different".
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This is a plane that is hard to fly "scale". It needs to be flown at higher throttle and higher speeds. IMO, it's a little under powered so trying to fly it slow can cause it to be too close to it's stall characteristics. Doing a loop that is too small and starting off too slow is not in this plane's nature. Big loops starting off with good speed and a little bit of a dive is the best way to do it without it snapping. Also, when it "snaps" too easily, this may be an indication that the 2 elevator sides aren't where they ought to be. Which way did it snap? If it snapped to the right, then the right elevator needs to be manually trimmed down a bit and/or the left one trimmed up a bit. If it snaps to the left, then the opposite. They may not look even when adjusted properly but if you like to do loops, that's the way they need to be. Mine only ever snapped once on the first loop. Then I figure out that it has to be done at speed and not too small a loop. It's never done it since and I never adjusted the elevators. Doing a big loop gives me time to compensate for any rolling tendency.
Nevertheless, the "scale police" will scream at us for even doing loops in this plane because it's not what the "real" one ever did, but I don't care, I fly my planes in whatever way it will let me.
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Originally posted by xviper View PostThis is a plane that is hard to fly "scale". It needs to be flown at higher throttle and higher speeds. IMO, it's a little under powered so trying to fly it slow can cause it to be too close to it's stall characteristics. Doing a loop that is too small and starting off too slow is not in this plane's nature. Big loops starting off with good speed and a little bit of a dive is the best way to do it without it snapping. Also, when it "snaps" too easily, this may be an indication that the 2 elevator sides aren't where they ought to be. Which way did it snap? If it snapped to the right, then the right elevator needs to be manually trimmed down a bit and/or the left one trimmed up a bit. If it snaps to the left, then the opposite. They may not look even when adjusted properly but if you like to do loops, that's the way they need to be. Mine only ever snapped once on the first loop. Then I figure out that it has to be done at speed and not too small a loop. It's never done it since and I never adjusted the elevators. Doing a big loop gives me time to compensate for any rolling tendency.
Nevertheless, the "scale police" will scream at us for even doing loops in this plane because it's not what the "real" one ever did, but I don't care, I fly my planes in whatever way it will let me.
And you are right,it has to fly w/loads of throttle,and does need re-powering. We had just maidens my Flightline P38L,so,after that,everything seemed slow!!! Lol
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Originally posted by Mrdronenut View Post
Thanks "X". I'm not the scale police,but,since I've only been flying planes now for just over a year,I do fly scale. My buddy that did the 1s1st flight can fly anything and everything. He owns planes u could sit a 5yr old in. So when he had trouble,it's pretty bad.lol. It snapped right,so I'll check the elevator.
And you are right,it has to fly w/loads of throttle,and does need re-powering. We had just maidens my Flightline P38L,so,after that,everything seemed slow!!! Lol
Bob
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Originally posted by Mrdronenut View Post
Thanks "X". I'm not the scale police,but,since I've only been flying planes now for just over a year,I do fly scale. My buddy that did the 1s1st flight can fly anything and everything. He owns planes u could sit a 5yr old in. So when he had trouble,it's pretty bad.lol. It snapped right,so I'll check the elevator.
And you are right,it has to fly w/loads of throttle,and does need re-powering. We had just maidens my Flightline P38L,so,after that,everything seemed slow!!! Lol
This model has a high wing loading, a lot like the real plane. Its also short-coupled, so its very sensitive to the elevator. And, it was tail-heavy! There was a huge amount of discussion about this plane earlier in this thread... like many others, I found that it was necessary to have about 3-4 mm of "up" elevator trim for level flight, even when correctly balanced. Through more testing, we discovered that shimming the TE of the entire stab UP a few mm meant that you could fly the plane level with a neutral elevator. This change also helped make the plane fly better, And, cutting the amount of elevator throw down is also really very helpful. Less elevator throw calms things down and its much less likely to snap.
I like flying scale as well. With these modifications, the model behaves itself much better. mine doesn't snap, unless I make it snap on purpose (and it snaps like an S.O.B.!!!). I don't have any problem landing or taking off, or flying at low speed - when I use the flaps. I use 1/2 flaps for low speed, and full flaps on final approach, always.
I've posted this before, its a video I made demonstrating the way mine snaps!Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Hi guys, A small report from a Frenchy. I made my first flight on B26 this afternoon, after using the elevator's modification, remove the lead into the tail and back the battery (5000 mAh 4S) just behind the second strap. Take off was a formality. The B26 should not be too slow, but with the flaps completely down, the landing is very easy. Four flights without problems, a good afternoon under the sun. @+ Papy58
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Originally posted by borntoolate View Post
This is why I replaced both B-26's with 11Hobby Bearcat motors. Flying at near full throttle just to stay in the air was not a good way to fly. Now half throttle is more than sufficient to fly well.
Bob
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Originally posted by Builda View Post
Were they a "bolt in" fit or did you have to replace ESC's and change the motor mounts? Am curious for reference. I've asked Dynam (factory) to replace my center wing section with a PROPERLY assembled one (I don't mind paying a little towards it, but given all the issues everywhere else I expect a decent discount (I guess I'm fortunate I can deal with the factory like this). I'm really not sure what to do about the hunk of steel that was supposed to be glued in the tail somewhere. I might just leave it out and see how she flies. I'm going to stick an incidence meter on it too and see what the deal is with the tail cause it might not have a problem without that hunk of steel in the back? I guess we will see. As for my FMS F7F I decided to order a Hobbyeagle flight stabiliser for it which I will set up to only come on (in Horizon mode) when the gear is down (I don't like flight stabilisers, but if you have seen XJet's videos at tokoroa you will know we get a bitch of a crosswind there, so I'm not chancing it. I was hoping to have it flying this summer but I've had so many other planes to build etc I have yet to get to it-will be a busy winter if the weather is anything like last years.
Bob
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Originally posted by Papy58 View PostHi borntoolate,
Did you measure the engine consumption? The original controller of F8F bearcat is a 40A. Papy58
Bob
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My B-26 had an unfortunate mishap about a month ago. Since I needed to repair the fuselage anyway, I opted to modify the bomb bay to a newer version. Thanks to Quitcherbitchen's advice, I decided to move the rudder and elevator servos further aft. I ended up moving them about 10 inches (254mm) back towards the tail. The allowed me to gut the bomb bay area under the wings. I could have fit 4 or 5 "Adam Bombs" in a free fall (when the doors opened) or 2 "Adam Bombs" with a bomb drop device. I already have a B-17 that will drop 4 or 5 bombs so I went with the toggle device. I am not finished but I took some pics of the progress so far if anyone is interested. I would also like to give credit to Tom Hunt. His bomb bay design for the B-17 inspired me in regards to the toggle device. Thanks Tom and Adam!
Bob
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Love the bomb bay bomber bob. Thats my next upgrade. For those new to the b26 and dynam, the fit/finish often requires modification to turn into a more "model scale". Beacon foam filler and a paint job can go a long way in covering up these issues. Mine is totally stock with the only non-cosmetic mod being improving the wing bolt mounts with a little ply. Weights in the tail,elevator 3mm up. It flies great, lands easy,and even at 3/4 throttle i get 9min of safe flight with a few in reserve. (4000ma 30c chinahobby line). Mine is the one of the pre-order first batch. The gear is a problem in cold weather (my third batch p-61 does not have the issue). Its worth the money. Even with the dynam quirks. Finger shows my CG with gear down. Foil is 338012x12 ,6 per pack alum foil tape from amazon.3 PhotosStill flying P.15, avanti(#2), mig 21, yak 130 70mm(#2), f35, f9f panther, a10 64mm, F8 crusader/ PA ultimate amr /HK skipper, durafly dh vampire, p 51,spit mk24, corsair, flybeam/ BH f86 50mm, deltawing 50mm/ HH su 26 mm,umx pitts,umx sbach, blade nano cp s,blade 450x, inductrix 200, inductrix pro, umx yak 54,umx f27 fpv/ electrifly 4s L39/ flyzone beaver/ volantix asw 28, /dynam B26
RIP.. roc hobby waco,strega #2(you will be missed), Fw 90mm eurofighter.
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Originally posted by CFIT rob View PostLove the bomb bay bomber bob. Thats my next upgrade. For those new to the b26 and dynam, the fit/finish often requires modification to turn into a more "model scale". Beacon foam filler and a paint job can go a long way in covering up these issues. Mine is totally stock with the only non-cosmetic mod being improving the wing bolt mounts with a little ply. Weights in the tail,elevator 3mm up. It flies great, lands easy,and even at 3/4 throttle i get 9min of safe flight with a few in reserve. (4000ma 30c chinahobby line). Mine is the one of the pre-order first batch. The gear is a problem in cold weather (my third batch p-61 does not have the issue). Its worth the money. Even with the dynam quirks. Finger shows my CG with gear down. Foil is 338012x12 ,6 per pack alum foil tape from amazon.
Bob
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Originally posted by borntoolate View Post
The 11Hobby motors were nearly a drop-in fit. The stock X mount was a close fit. I did need to slightly open the holes in the X mount - but just slightly. I did change the ESC's to new 60 amp units. I was able to use the stock propellers as well.
Bob
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Originally posted by Builda View Post
Thanks Bob. I haven't looked at my B26 to see (at the time of writing this), but were you able to swap the ESC's without removing the Nacelles from the center wing section?
Bob
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I currently fly a multi-engine turbo prop STOL aircraft that incorporates aerodynamic/geometric wing twist along with wing fences to ensure a nose first drop wings level stall characteristics. It is almost impossible to have a wingtip stall, short of getting myself into VMCA. Has anyone played with modifying the leading edge of the outer 1/3 of the wings on this bird.... because I am about to start... I thinking of using some extra wing fences from a Delta Ray. Then either add to or change the angle of incidence on the outer one third of the leading edge,... just brainstorming...
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